Ask Wirecutter: Can you recommend a not-smart TV for me?
nytimes.com
nytimes.com
Let me know your thoughts. Reference pix of 70" industrial display using Samsung LCD panel and in-house LCD controller with physical OSD menu buttons along with IR/RS232 control capability: https://imgur.com/a/k6zrH3s
I’d prefer a much smaller tv (32-40”) but I’m weird like that.
All I’d want is an input for an Apple TV and maybe 2 more hdmi plugs. Doesn’t even need a remote.
Good luck.
Add more input ports than you think anybody could ever want, and I'm in.
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I suppose they might think to argue that someone selling televisions with the name Dumbo would be trying to tie their product in with the Disney trademarked product. I don't think that would be considered too much of a stretch so I don't think you would do too well with continuing with that name.
Of course, by the time Disney notices you you'll already have succeeded, but you may be forced to change brand. You can do it now or later.
[1] https://search.ipaustralia.gov.au/trademarks/search/view/115...
[2] https://files.littlebird.com.au/Shared-Image-2023-04-08-06-5...
I guess you can toggle the internet on and off when updates are published, but it's not the most convenient solution.
Edit: But you can use a USB! Woohoo, thank you repliers!
As Jimmy waited for a reply, as Muggs turned beet red, he again noticed how that poor nose was bent, deformed even, and did the man no favour.
Muggs, anger at a peak, spat out "Twas the babypuncher, Jimmy, the babypuncher. He got me as a babe"
Alternatively, for something more automated, you could just use parental control 'bedtime'. I use it currently to keep the kid from watching TV at certain hours. Could probably do the inverse and block it except for an hour on a particular day, I'd imagine.
Fwiw toggling the internet is an easy fix compared to the "dumb tv" way of updating firmware - putting a bin on a flash drive.
I'll add that "back in my day" a screen could display the video signal on its inputs without ever needing a software update. But I suppose automatic time zone changes are a reasonable reason that code needs to be pushed post-manufacture. Then again, who needs a clock on their TV?
* it is effectively dumb to me, so I don’t care about feature updates
* it isn’t connected to the network, so I don’t care about security updates
It hadn't occurred to me that there could be TVs out there that are so “smart” that they can’t even take an input without a network connection. Such a device would be returned as defective by me, but of course I can see somebody deciding that packing it all up into the car is too much of a pain.
Video codec upgrades and software processing are nice things to have and often worth the update.
https://www.forbes.com/sites/bernardmarr/2017/02/08/shocking...
> Once every second, software in the Vizio TVs would read pixel data from a segment of the screen. This was sent home and compared against a database of film, television and advertising content to determine what was being watched.
With Apple TV, you can nip that in the bud. Yes, Apple TV has its own quirks but it’s nowhere near as hostile as built in “functionality” that these tvs try to provide.
And not say that streaming services have every incentive to keep the Apple TV apps improving compared to the tv app itself.
It’s just an overall better experience.
But when it comes to general conversation (and this context), yes it's the same. Unless you are actually using a niche setup of local streaming and the Apple TV box is just a nice interface you keep offline - don't know how well that works. For everyone else, they are just avoiding overlapping TV services, as relying on Apple or Google or Amazon is falling into the same traps.
Worst case, Apple jumps the shark… you can just unplug it. You at least get to keep the display.
That difference in power is felt quite a lot in the user experience.
So it still sounds like a software problem to me.
That would be fine if they were rendering to a 720p screen or had much more simplistic menus like the those found on most A/V receivers, but they’re usually running recent-ish Android or something similar, which has fancy graphics and animations all over the place designed for newer devices which make that hardware choke at the 4K resolution that the majority of TVs now ship with. Exacerbating this are the terrible lowest-bidder smart TV apps which are written terribly.
TV manufacturers will never ship an OS more suitable for the hardware though, because they’re concerned that it will make the TV look less modern than competing TVs. They also won’t ship better hardware because that’d cut $5 per unit off of their margins. As such, it’s best to just write off integrated “smarts” and plug in a streaming box that’s not so anemic.
We were staying at one just a few days ago that had a cheap Samsung TV. The UI latency was so horribly laggy that simply clicking an arrow on the remote to try to navigate to the next menu would take up to 10 seconds to finally register on screen. It was also variable, meaning some button presses only took 1-2 seconds to respond, but some took 10 seconds, and if you pressed more than once you'd end up with a whole bunch of your delayed button presses registering at once and taking you to a menu option you didn't want.
Sad to say, but state of the art in these Android menu systems is horrible latency, most likely because the UI devs are building in new javascript features that run horribly slow on older ARM processors and they just don't give any F's about the actual user experience or testing...
A TV with Samsung MySmart™ HomeOS Android UltraCrap Edition is not the same as an AppleTV, if you care about things like, I don't know... consistent framerate? No random crashes? Bearable UI latency?
Similarly how Apple CarPlay is not the same as car manufacturers' sorry-ass homegrown infotainment trash software.
iPhones are still spying on you, even if you tick the box to disable sharing of device analytics[0][1].
[0]: https://gizmodo.com/apple-iphone-analytics-tracking-even-whe...
It was great for two days and then it downloaded an update that absolutely wrecked the interface. What was smooth and snappy and good enough for me now moves at a snails pace and the tv is practically unusable even after a factory reset.
Opening the menu takes 2.5 seconds from button push to response on a good day for no reason other than vizio must have decided it was time for me to buy a new tv.
I used to like their brand. Now I'll never buy another one again.
99% of the problem with Smart TVs is because of the absolute dog shit UI and the relatively bad HDMI CEC setups they have (at least with mine, if HDMI CEC is on, anytime the TV accidentally or intentionally gets into any of the smart parts, it tells the receiver to go to TV mode, and getting it back to one of the HDMI inputs on the receiver either involves turning everything off, or turning it back repeatedly).
I also have a Hisense Android TV and would avoid any Android TV's.
Ridiculously bad is the „Home Screen“ (Netflix-like UI with every app and suggestions and so one in one place), which needs even longer to start.
And the worst thing is: all of these internal apps are reloaded EVERY TIME I use them. No preloading, no caching. Everything lags and needs several painful seconds to display.
(And then LG did not even bother to pay some cents for the DTS license so that I am unable to watch movies from USB sticks with DTS audio track, and I would have to convert them to Dolby AC3 first on my computer …)
The LG display is nice, though it’s far from perfect, which is a problem of ALL televion sets, and I don’t know why because _monitors_ on the other hand are always pixel perfect, but televisions seem never be able to get configured pixel-sharp, even with perfect video material. It’s ok for the money I poured into. Just a big screen.
An also bad part of LG is the lack of apps and the control LG holds over the store. There isn’t even a web browser available, just the crappy thing from LG built-in, which does not even have all TLS certificates. I wish I had bought a TV with Android.
RS-232 control also has a command to disable OSD, which has the pleasant side effect of disabling annoying smart TV bits like pop-up notifications even when the TV is connected to the Internet (and also superfluous [to me] non-smart TV pop-ups that ordinarily appear when switching inputs and adjusting visually apparent settings like brightness).
Disabling the OSD also disables the bundled Magic Remote, though IR remotes still work (unless locked out with another command) and OSD can be re-enabled via RS-232, or by simply power-cycling the TV.
As a bonus, input switching via IR remote (or RS-232) is noticeably faster than switching via Magic Remote, even if you set up hotkeys, as full-featured LG IR remotes have hard buttons for each input that don't require press-and-hold to activate (this includes sub-$10 service remote knock-offs on Amazon, which work perfectly fine IME, though you may want to steer away from these in a casual setting as some of the service buttons can cause undesirable behavior).
For my own use, I wrote a trivial ASP.NET Web API wrapper around the LG RS-232,
https://github.com/jasminetroll/LgTvControl
While only tested on macOS controlling the TV I own (55SK9000), the documentation it's written against isn't model-specific and I'm not using any platform-specific .NET APIs, so it should work across many TV models and on any platform that supports RS-232 and .NET (.NET 6.0+ as currently configured, though it was mostly developed on .NET Core 3.1, so changing TargetFramework in the csproj file should suffice to get it running on older versions).
[1] https://search.ipaustralia.gov.au/trademarks/search/view/115...
[2] https://files.littlebird.com.au/Shared-Image-2023-04-08-06-5...
Edit: as in you have to code BASIC to change the channel
I think it needs just a bit of fool-proofing in a couple dimensions though:
(1) Ideally, the brand would also be able to speak to the segment of people who aren't going to get the wordplay.
(2) Also, there's the age-old pronunciation question. Is it just "Primitive"? Is it "Primi - Tee - Vee"?
It's quite close to being a great brand, though. I wonder if it just needs a skillfully-placed lowercase letter, or a couple dots, or something — maybe some sort of subtle variation could solve both problems.
Like, most people probably don’t think about the fact that Uniqlo is short for “unique clothing” and yet it’s the #3 clothing retailer in the world.
PrimiTV.
As in: DirecTV.
Actually, I don't own a TV, and besides, it would be the coolest story to tell when people ask me where I got this device. So I would like to gladly take you up on the offer IF you actually end up using the name, everything worked out as you hoped and you're in serial production.
I really like the design btw, clean, uniform bezels and logo-less. That's what i always look after for my computer displays.
I'll drop you an email. Thanks again :)
I wanna play the name game.
Perhaps something along the lines of:
'NOAD' - noad.tv - I could see a regular googler search for 'no ad TV'
Or some other word for 'dumb', 'not smart'. Like dunce.tv. dolt. simpleton. dullard. etc.
Maybe a play on the TCP error ENETUNREACH? hehe.
The word "idiot" comes from the Greek noun ἰδιώτης idiōtēs 'a private person, individual' (as opposed to the state), 'a private citizen' (as opposed to someone with a political office), 'a common man', 'a person lacking professional skill, layman', later 'unskilled', 'ignorant', derived from the adjective ἴδιος idios 'personal' (not public, not shared). In Latin, idiota was borrowed in the meaning 'uneducated', 'ignorant', 'common', and in Late Latin came to mean 'crude, illiterate, ignorant'. In French, it kept the meaning of 'illiterate', 'ignorant', and added the meaning 'stupid' in the 13th century. In English, it added the meaning 'mentally deficient' in the 14th century.
Top 2 results: standardtvandapplicance.com and https://talent.nebula.tv/
not impossible
Also, marketing isn't only about search results. Another example: Standard Hotels
STANDARD is probably not the best choice for short-term SEO, though. :)
Justa box, and nothing else.
a sarcastic nod to smart.
I like the name "dumbo", maybe coming from "dumb TV" and Jumbotron -- a nice, big TV/display without all the "smart TV" problems, and having fun naming something that's a bit of a cult niche -- but I also want your business to succeed.
(Disney has been putting their Dumbo on TV since at least the 1980s. I don't know whether there are other Dumbos, but I could imagine lawyer billable hours destroying your margin regardless of the theoretical defensibility. Also, separate from US govt. offices and courts, there's ICANN, and I guess you could suddenly lose your domain name that way.)
I contains Tap and Cast (ok, Kast...) plus giving a nod to the famous Prince name copyright case.
* eARC
* Dolby Vision and HDR10+
* VRR, preferably with G-Sync and Freesync Premium certification
These are my requirements for a new display, anything that meets them in the pipeline? My biggest problem with existing "dumb TVs" is that they lack features like these, yet cost more than "smart TVs" that do.
Variable refresh rate is essential for games, to avoid stuttering at least.
Dolby Vision and HDR10+ are newer premium HDR formats.
Don't just do the bare minimum VRR support to be HDMI 2.1 compliant though. The spec only requires a very narrow VRR window. Lots of cheaper devices make this window 48 to 60 hz, even when the display itself supports fixed refresh rates up to 120 hz. VRR should work anywhere from 30 all the way up to the maximum refresh rate supported by the TV. That is why I mentioned the G-Sync/Freesync Premium certifications.
Also HDR support and DRM will be quite problematic.
Do these displays support HDCP? Are they locked at 60 or 30hz refresh rates?
There is a reason why computer monitors make really poor display devices for multimedia content.
4K or 8K content sure, but what about HDR? Especially at sizes less than 40” that’s more important than res for viewing content.
HDCP isn’t supported on all versions of HDMI it’s not part of the spec it is a standard that is supported on top of w/e display interface you are using.
Overall I don’t think you realize just how difficult your venture might be.
Signage displays will make really bad televisions.
They are optimized for long term operations over color accuracy and gamut, they usually operate at fixed refresh rates, and their latency is usually pretty terrible.
I don’t think you realize just how small the market for what you are looking to build in the first place is and how difficult it would be to make anything that is remotely useable as a display for movies and video games.
Those who want a dumb display can already buy one of those 50-65” enterprise displays for meeting rooms however they make pisspoor TVs and having to pay 3-5 times the price of even a high end TV makes them pretty pointless for even the user base that might want that.
The large format gaming monitors are an option but recently they are adding “SmartTV” features to them because that’s what most consumers seem to want.
Both LG and Samsung are making 30-40” gaming monitors with apps these days like Netflix because they seem to be quite popular with students and flatsharers.
I would not pay a premium for metal case - and I am not in the cost conscious above all consumer market. I am really skeptical there is a large contingent that would. In any event - maybe no smartos, but this minimal firmware would have to be beyond reproach, and support Dolby Vision, proper tone mapping, GSync/Freesync/VRR, isf calibration, substantial Rec 2020 gamut, and probably excellent upscaling. You’re never gonna attract the cost conscious market - the segment beyond that has very particular standards. I dont see how you can survive excluding either one of the gamer or cinema enthusiast markets - especially when the current high end TVs already cater to both. Just because the LG C- series of TVs are clearly a consumer product does not mean they are junk. And the software isn’t nearly as bad as people gripe about (at least in the higher end market where you’d be competing) - not enough to forego actual image processing features.
Elsewhere was dismissed consumer display color calibration as a “marketing gimmick” - it isn’t. These TVs have fantastic accuracy out of the box, but because they’re carefully designed and factory set that way. I think you are too dismissive of the existing market.
TV manufacturers spend a lot of time and effort on figuring out how to drive these panels effectively and they build their own silicon for this.
Even tho most TVs use the same MediaTek SoC for the smart features as well as the I/O they have their own image processors and drivers on separate silicon.
I suspect that if you are serious about this you’ll be far better off partnering with an OEM who already manufactures TVs and just toning down the SmartOS features.
Getting a display to operate at 10ms or better response time and supporting VRR have the image processing required to display all types of media content, supporting HDR with proper tone mapping, getting the color science right and much more is going to be an monumentally complex task to achieve.
Allow me to add that every time I’ve removed it I’ve had full licensing and permissions, just that HDCP was in the way.
Same goes for not supporting HDCP of a specific version e.g. a display that supports only HDCP 1.3 but not 2.0 will be able to display 1080 Blu-ray’s but not 4K ones.
Yes in theory you can rip it off however that is very expensive and difficult especially with more recent standards (I’m not aware of any way to strip HDCP 2.1 and higher) and bandwidths.
Also to strip it you still need to get a license and keys so it would be quite difficult to do so on a commercial basis especially in a country with strong rule of law.
That said, I think there is a middle-ground here.
If its within your capacity, I'd consider allowing a USB connection. If I were able to attach a USB thumb-drive or an external hard-drive (powered though USB connection) and the TV provide a basic visual navigation system.
The nearest comparison is something like the current Roku USB app, or a more basic version of the Infuse App (https://firecore.com/), the library structure is a reflection of the file-system. I'll skip the details where a dedicated user can set the cover image for a given video by having a image filer with the same name as a companion to the MP4 etc...
I know that would be a huge jump, but I'd pay for it.
That's my main objection to many of these all-in-one systems: the built-in technology support will be obsoleted before the rest of the system fails due to old age. I much prefer a dumb TV with a separate media box/dongle that I can replace with a new model every year to paying for a TV with soon-to-be-stale features.
All of this is overkill in my opinion. However… I think this is a core market for you. Between the Enthusiasts on Reddit and the home theater market there are a lot of people that would appreciate a highly tunable screen where they can have their AV closet run the show without Samsung, Google, or Roku in the way.
One of the most painful parts of my install was getting an HDMI Balun that would operate in 4:4:4 color space, provide 7.2 ARC, provide CEC, and provide IR… and work reliably. This is a tall ask because it’s supposed to use CAT6 between the ends. The expense of these units was high (300-500) and the reliability wasn’t great. A lot of the reason for this pain is the idea that you can upgrade later without running a new set of wires. Ultimately I said screw it and ran an optical HDMI cable (and am very happy).
You would really engage with this market if you integrated this functionality into your TV so you only needed to run a cable and attach the receiver side Balun. I don’t know where the pain came from but this feels like something that the native TV hardware could expose over a cable. Some people have Toslink run through their walls as well which would be a good option to support as well.
We do have a few LCD controller boards that support IP TV, but the downside is that they use 264/MPEG-4 AVC compression for transport.
A decent consumer LCD panel will be ~12ms@60Hz, with OLED often being faster. If it's over 20ms or so, I struggle on some old NES games.
It's always frustrating to see manufacturers intentionally make their product worse just to look better in a store. I'm sure I'm not the only one who cares a lot more about image quality, latency, durability, etc. than having a fancy rounded plastic case with a laggy netflix integration.
I've often though about going for something like a Sharp/NEC Display, because I often use my T.V. as a PC monitor and want to be sure it's not phoning home, but the idea of being able to slide in a compute module is also generally interesting. One of the things that always stops me is the quality and responsiveness. It would still be in my living room, so I still want a nice picture and features like variable refresh rate for devices like a PS5.
I am not in the market for a TV and I am only a hobbyist with a tendency to spend more than I should on anything that lets me open the hood and tinker with it. If there is any consumer electronics company that wants to be the anti-Apple, I'd support it in any possible way.
Seriously, I even wonder if there could be some type of "Patreon-based" R&D for consumer eletronics. Get a group of software and industrial engineers to design and build all sorts of different projects, and patreons would get access to early prototypes and would be able to "buy" the finished products at cost.
Honestly to compete with mass market TVs, it's going to be difficult to avoid have more- not less "bloat". Built-in Android would be a great selling point (saves you $200 on a NVidia Shield as long as it doesn't track you or lock down features). Built-in AI upscaling is a good selling point.
I would also think if you have a OLED or edge/direct LED backlight LCD then you also need to run much more complicated pixel/zone brightness algorithms....
There's probable more memory allocated per frame on a modern 4K TV than an 8-bit computer had in total.
No, the reason that UIs are slow are because they are often a web browser, running a Javascript bloatware UI with it's shadow DOM or whatever, and there's a heaps of bullshit going on before anything happens on screen at all.
And this is fine! For many use-cases, comparatively beefy PCs, web pages etc.
But for what is effectively an embedded product which will get updated seldom if ever, THIS is the time to take a step and rethink what you are doing.
For a non-smart TV you definitely don't need Linux, (but you could!) and you don't need to care if it's realtime or not. There should be only one or two processes running anyway, so there shouldn't be any competition between different threads. It's should all be coded like a classic, tight game-loop.
AI upscaling and Android... dear lord. Just give me something which isn't fucking slow and frustrating to use. I thought I was in the thread which discussed non-smart TVs, did I miss something?
For control… it's really a question of balance. "all the things" sure would be nice, but with a mid 4-digit price I think putting a small fully-open Linux embedded board inside would be awesome. Some existing SBC or SoM is preferable over rolling your own, the latter would just splinter off a separate community for no good reason. Also make sure the embedded system has full control over all functions (there should be enough GPIO & I²C…) and has its own power control. Having it able to actually drive the TV display would be nice (and easy these days) but isn't even the point :).
If you don't stick that in, how about a slot/connector for a Raspberry Pi compute module — or some other reasonably sourceable similar module?
Barring that, RS-232 for control is a bit dated, I'd really expect both an USB device port (control in) and an USB power output, ideally USB-C PD capable, to run some small system off. If you have the pins & functions, please spend the extra $5 and wire up leftover "random" interfaces, e.g. CAN or RS-485. Ethernet without adding a full SBC is kinda "meh", putting together some embedded OS with networking is significant effort for very little return.
- is Not smart
- does Not spy on you
- does Not show you ads
- is Not going to harm your family
…
You get the idea..
Personally my TV is offline with an AppleTV for streaming.
The sales pitch can’t be “sure that TV is the same as ours for double the price, but wait until nexts years model!”
Well, better reason to buy the cheap one today.
One problem is the TV nags you to enter set it up every time you turn it on. We have to keep the TV remote around just to use the power on/off button.
Not the end of the world, but I'd rather have the product that fits my application.
I strongly suspect most game consoles are spying on you just as much as a smart TV would and all of them currently seem to be pushing ads in your face pretty aggressively too. Still probably better than roku which records and sends home multiple screenshots of whatever you're watching every second, but if my PS5 isn't doing some form of ACR already I suspect it's only a matter of time.
I did some minor ps3 hacking a decade or so back, and dumped the network activity. Every boot it would send some XMPP traffic containing a log of your recent activities back to Sony. What you watched over Dlna, what dvds/Bly-rays you played, which games, for how long and when.
I imagine things have only got more detailed since then in newer consoles.
(Yes, that restriction includes changing the HDMI source for your Apple TV. Simply not possible without.)
All my TV's have computers hooked to them, mainly low power x86 systems and run Linux or 9front on them. Linux gets me a browser which makes into a useful internet toaster to watch hulu, browse and so on. Then I can open terminals and whatever while I'm on the couch or in bed. It's 1000x more useful than a smart TV or even a TV stick.
Is the rS232 protocol ASCII based?
Sizes I use at home range between 32 and 55 inches. And I both stand them on tables or wall mount.
My main issue with smart TVs isn't the network connectivity, its their horrible UI. The menus are universally confusing, slow and poorly thought-out. And because these TVs have to have some complicated OS to run all this stuff, they're slow to start up. My AppleTV goes from standby to on faster than my circa 2008[1] (only kinda smart) TV and receiver are ready to display an image. The AppleTV should not be the fastest device in the chain.
I assume your commercial displays have a time-to-first-image that more closely resembles a computer monitor. That's what I want in a TV. If Apple had a TV-version of CarPlay that TV manufacturers could license, I'd be pretty happy with that.
Given that embedded TvOS isn't coming any time soon, my ideal TV would have:
* 70" - 80" screen
* the smallest possible bezel
* 4k HDR
* capable of professional color calibration
* one HDMI 2.1 input with ARC
* TV tuner with auto-scan
* any crappy speaker will do (I'm not going to use it)
* IR/RS-232 control with distinct codes for on and off (i.e. not toggled)
* excellent CEC support
* time-to-first-image under 3 seconds, immediate audio
Nice to haves: * simulated snow for dead channels/no input (much nicer than blue IMO)
* power, HDMI, serial connections should be down-facing
* physical buttons on the back of the TV for power, channel, volume, menu
* a rear or bottom-mounted red power LED that reflects off the wall/table
I would be willing to pay $3000 - $4000 for this TV, with the expectation that it would last at least 15 years.[1] In December 2008, I bought a Samsung LN52A750 52" 1080p TV for $1937. That's roughly $2772 inflation-adjusted. It has a huge bezel; a modern TV with the same physical dimensions would be closer to 60" diagonal.
1. Professional color calibration - this is doable, but it adds significant cost. When referring to color calibration, it is not the typical marketing gimmick used for consumer displays, but instead something equivalent to what you would get with Sony's BVM-HX310 reference monitor. So, my question would be what level of professional color calibration is acceptable?
2. HDMI 2.1 - HDMI-2.1a to be specific. Our controllers are all compliant up to HDMI-2.0 as of now. This is something in the works, but due to chip shortages, it has been challenging to come by industrial-grade chips/SoCs that handle HDMI 2.1a. However, this is on our radar.
3. TV Tuner - it is unclear if you mean an actual channel tuner or an auto-scanner for the available input. If referring to a channel tuner for COAX-based inputs, this is something that has been phased out, not by us but by our chip suppliers.
Regarding the price point, that sounds very doable. My personal expertise is in overall system integration and sheet metal design. The intent is to create even the consumer-grade display with a fabricated aluminum shell that feels rock-solid and heavy-duty aesthetically.
FYI, all the "nice-haves" are also already present, with the exception of down-facing connections. Can you clarify? Also, did you check out the pictures from my link above?
Thank you again for your valuable feedback!
TV Tuner - Yes. An ATSC tuner with a COAX antenna input that can auto-scan for receivable channels. If this isn't feasible anymore, then I guess the HDMI input doesn't need ARC.
Connectors - looking at your photos, your input connections are on the side. If you put them on the bottom (down-facing), I think they'd be easier to reach if the TV is wall mounted (maybe not as easy if its on a table-top stand though). As long as they don't stick straight out the back, any orientation would be acceptable.
What's your experience with outdoor displays? 1000+ nits, IP-67 rated?
[1] In my area, that would be someone like https://www.gramophone.com
As for outdoor TVs, that's a whole other Pandora's box, but yes, we also make those displays, mainly for digital billboards, advertising, and rental purposes. They typically range from 5000 nits to 12000 nits in brightness, and their pixel pitch ranges from 3mm to 9mm. They're all IP67 rated. Displays with a brightness lower than 5000 nits are typically indoor LED displays with much finer pitch, ranging from 0.9mm to 6mm. A 0.9mm pitch would be very similar to Samsung's QN90A series TVs with QLEDs (a marketing gimmick for an actual LED pixel-based display). These displays may cost a pretty penny, but we hope that once semiconductor plants are up and running in the US, costs will start to come down. Here's a project we did with a circular 3mm display back in 2017. This unit is 7ft tall with a 4.5ft diameter: http://bit.ly/43keDD5
So my use case for outdoor displays is in the recreational marine market. Screen sizes are typically between 7" and 18" with some very high-end "glass bridge" displays coming in around 24". Retail for a 12" chart plotter is $4000. Typical display brightness is 1200 nits, which is OK, but still hard to see in direct sunlight with sunglasses. Conversely, they also don't get dim enough at night.
The glass bridge solutions all use a "black box" chart plotter (essentially a rugged PC) and dumb displays. But the smallest displays are 16" and way more expensive than the integrated solution.
I'd love a 12" to 15" HD display with capacitive touch, optically bonded LCD, wide viewing angle, viewable in direct sunlight (with sunglasses), and dimmable to nearly off (20 - 50 nits maybe?) so that its not blinding at night (not city night, but offshore night). It should have one cable: a USB connection for power, video, and HID output.
In the vein of your pole display, a 14-18" tall, 4" wide screen would be very cool for the sailing market. Most folks mounting mast displays are still stacking a bunch of individual 3" or 4" monochrome LCDs (at $1000/ea).
Naively, I'd say… Delta-E <5. Asus ProArt monitors originally shipped with that, and could be calibrated by the user to Delta-E <2; afte a while, Asus simply started shipping them them with the latter.
A video mixer acts as the source and sink for the output and the inputs respectively, where a HDMI switch will just physically disconnect and connect the output port to a different input port, meaning the HDID negotiation has to be re-done every time.
Why do you need this?
What kinds of inputs?
How many?
Are they all operating at the same resolution and frame rate?
What resolutions?
Do they require scaling? De-interlacing?
Are they synchronized? (genlock)
Down-facing connections are a must.
I also don't want anything except a power button -- no channel, volume, menu, etc. I don't want crappy TV speakers and I'd really rather not have an OSD. I would love a display where I could fire up some software on my computer and have it issue commands over HDMI CEC to change settings. There are USB CEC adapters out there that would make this possible if computer HDMI ports won't emit CEC commands for whatever reason.
Ideally, strip the display down to the simplest possible thing and focus on the core features: big display, small bezel, high resolution, HDR, color accuracy (configurable through the aforementioned CEC mechanism). I don't even need multiple inputs: just give me one working HDMI input.
https://www.cdw.com/search/computer-monitors-displays/large-...
If you don't mind dropping the money then go for it, but I think most people will want to go for consumer model for much less.
Also I am not sure if those support HDR or other features that may be desirable in a consumer display.
HDR is a good point, i haven't had a chance to use any of those newer TV features so i'm not sure what i'm missing there. but that's the sort of thing i'd wait a few years for to see if they stick around, or if they're just a fad to sell more TVs like 3D was.
Our company caters to this market by designing and fabricating our own thick metal casings for our displays. We also bond our sourced LCD panels with an additional layer of 1/8” to 1/4” thick anti-glare polycarbonate sheets to help them resist physical trauma. We have also designed our own controller that operates these displays with a super minimal/barebones RTOS. Our controllers can be controlled via RS232, but unlike other displays, we do not have an onboard PHY (Ethernet connectivity capability). This is an industrial requirement that originated due to Stuxnet.
Majority of the large format displays in the market today are more like smart TVs than actual dumb TVs, and though they are great products, they would not last in a real rugged industrial environment. I can create large format displays without the smartness for consumer use at an approximate 50-70% of their price.
(Volume control is essential for analog audio out because if I’m going to use external speakers I don’t want to have to have a separate volume control just for that…)
Gamers and retro-gamers are distinct but related groups.
Both groups want ultra-low consistent latency as priority, with minimal to none post-processing by default.
For modern console and PC gamers, if your panel will support high(er) refresh rates (60Hz, 75Hz, 120Hz as ideal minimum, 144Hz as recommended, 240Hz as perfect) at standard resolutions (1080p, 1440p and 2160p) please include them.
If having AMD's standard variable refresh rate (FreeSync) is an option, that'd be great.
Both a Display Port and HDMI inputs ideally, but I understand if it's HDMI only.
For retro gamers, if you have to make educated guesses as to input settings or processing (deinterlacing for example) please give us the option to override the defaults. And I guess respect what you're told the input is. Don't assume 240p is 480i, or vice versa. You might think that's a given, but it isn't.
If you're going to include legacy inputs (like component video, composite, VGA) please ensure they're have low consistent latency.
Ideally include support for the (now) sometimes unusual inputs from classic consoles or the ability to add it later via firmware updates or as a stretch goal or whatever.
Or at least test the majors from PAL and NTSC regions: NES, SNES, N64, GC, Wii. Master System, Genesis, Saturn, Dreamcast. Playstation, 2, and 3. (Personal request for Atari Jaguar!)
But scalers like the OSSC and RetroTINK line exist for people who need to hook up weird stuff, so there's no massive need to bake it into the TV. So long as the HDMI inputs are low and consistent latency, anything else can be worked around outside.
If including legacy inputs is something you're thinking of doing, please have a quick word with Bob over on RetroRGB and anyone else he'd recommend speaking to.
[EDIT: Also give the option to display as much info as possible. Resolution, refresh rate, connection standard, audio codec, errors, HDCP standard and status etc.]
You may find yourself the primary supplier to the whole retro niche!
And if you become the primary TV makers for gamers, you will never run out of market or free advertising.
If you'll excuse an odd and personal somewhat scope-creep-ish request... If the colour data from the screen edges were accessible, so Hue Ambilight-style tech is implementable without having to point a camera back at the screen or intercept the HDMI stream inbound (as the Hue Play HDMI Sync Box does), that'd be awesome. No idea how feasible in terms of connectivity and dev time that'd be though.
A final thought: Arduino and the Raspberry PI became the reference in the makers community, not because they were better and/or cheaper but because they were reasonably good and cheap, but most importantly they were very well documented and offered standard connectors that would allow makers to build their devices knowing they would be compatible with the new models. If you make a 100% Open Source dumb TV with a rear Open Source well documented connector allowing tinkerers to extend the device functionality beyond adding a TV box (which in most cases just moves the privacy issue one HDMI cable away), your product would be extremely well received by the tinkerers community, and probably much beyond it.
What for? I'd prefer to connect my own computer instead of having a worse one build in
Personally 70” is a bit too big but I’d definitely be interested in a quality dumb tv.
It would be nice if there was some sort of bay to hide a computer inside of that lets the user pop a board in and turn their dumb TV into a "Smarter TV". Something like an ITX bay that can be left empty from factory. I say ITX because it's a standard that gives the owner the freedom to put the computer of their choice into it and upgrade path. RPi or other R-V/Arm SoM/SBC's adapters/carriers could be made to fit in the ITX bay. PSU would be tricky but MAYBE the TV PSU could offer an extra 60+ watts of "user power" 12V/24V DC to an internal molex connector and a little extra room to mount a DC-DC ATX PSU board? Maybe someone puts an FPGA board in there, whatever. Optional freedom bay FTW.
I know it sounds like a computer case at this point but I'd love a big ass All-in-one to neatly hang on the wall and run my Linux-Chrome Internet toasters with just a power cable and maybe Ethernet.
Top, side, and bottom mounting holes for optional speaker bars or custom speaker setups, cameras, accessories, decor, etc. Just locate a bunch of mounting holes, make the dimensions known and let the users or aftermarket fill in the blanks. If you offer audio, maybe let the user remove the speakers or replace them? Like maybe a bunch of M3.5/M4 holes on 100 or 150 mm spacing around the rear edge, closer spacing at the corners. A simple flat piece of sheet metal can be drilled and screwed to mount stuff. Or hell, mount the TV flush or frame it directly in reclaimed wood using those holes. Anything really. I cant tell you how many times I wanted to mount shit to the sides of my TV but cant. I even made a speaker bracket out of a piece of angle iron attached to the VESA mount and 1/4-20 screws to hang the speakers up higher off the sides because Sony's downward facing speakers are useless. But that is a big piece of metal and side holes would make my life easier. This is a nice way to enable modding.
Possible to accommodate a board that features an internal eDP, LVDS, DSI etc to the LCD controller? Not important but interesting.
DC power input? For a big 70" I can see low volt DC being impractical but if you plan to make smaller displays it might be interesting to have a 12 or 24V option. I work with industrial automation so I'm all about using 24V where I can. Also maybe a wide input DC supply for off-gridders running 12-60V solar battery banks. Maybe the power supply board and inlet are designed to allow AC-DC or DC-DC supplies installed/swapped in factory or field. And for DC in I'd want a pluggable screw terminal block aka "Phoenix blocks" as I don't like barrel jacks.
With all this potential I could allow myself to spend a lot of money on a hacker friendly TV. This is why people pay $1000+ for the MNT reform and framework laptop.
HDMI such an abomination thrust upon the world. Why do we accept a TV going blank for seconds for any reason in 2023. Lawrd help us all. Can you optimize HDMI resync in any way? That would be a major selling point. Maybe blend the output between what was shown and what is about to be shownn (apply a gentle blur filter to the last seen frame for a few moments and fade to black after 3-4 seconds.. float a gentle explainer message “HDMI sync lost….” After 3 seconds)
Samsung 4k https://www.samsung.com/us/business/displays/4k-uhd/qb-serie...
It's more expensive then the subsidized ones, but right in the description:
QB65B--N * Direct-Lit 4K Crystal UHD LED Display for Business Without Embedded Wi-Fi or Bluetooth
As others have suggested as well, possibly a monitor, but I'm not aware of many 65" 4k monitors (But they may exist)
I did connect it to the wifi once to update the firmware. Note that it also took a lot of fiddling with I first got it to get a decent picture setup - although part of that was finding out that I needed a fancy HDMI cable to get 4k@120hz, and another part was figuring out that HDR isn't really viable for daily PC usage (turning on HDR makes the picture darker, because although the dynamic range has gone up, the max brightness of OLED is not that high so it has to make things dimmer for the dynamic range to be available. Plus Windows HDR management sucks). Oh and the gloss finish means it's not suitable for bright environments. But otherwise it's a beautiful screen and would be an awesome TV too with wifi turned off and connected to a TV dongle of some kind.
1. They appear to be more expensive than consumer TV’s
2. They might be more difficult to find through usual channels because they are targeted at businesses (but it probably depends on where you are located)
- it cost $5000 in 2017 and was not easy to order
- it's 1080p, not 4K
- no HDR, although it has great contrast
- no HDMI-CEC, so instead of sleep/wake on input, it shuts down and boots up, taking ~20 seconds
I still love it though ツ
Imagine an attack in which an attacker gains physical access to your TV and loads malware onto your TV via USB. Now the infected TV is communicating with a nearby WIFI hotspot to upload the audio recordings from the TV's microphone (that exists for voice commands).
I think the TV is malware out-of-the-book if connected to a network connection. Either way it's actually a huge vulnerability.
2. The malware you're describing is the main argument against smart TVs. It's installed by the manufacturer, at the factory, and receives regular updates. No third party attacker required.
My threat model doesn’t include attackers that surreptitiously gain access to my home and execute a physical attack against my devices.
I literally need zero of these things:
1: BT, auto-labeling HDMI inputs: My receiver does these
2: built-in channel scanning: I live in a valley and can reliably pull in 0 channels
3: HDR functionality: This would be nice for future-proofing, but I don't own any HDR content.
Some of my other "favorite" things about the dumb TV i bought for the kids room:
* Only a single button - you have to hold it down to turn it off, I think? Single press cycles inputs.
* Stand made of two flimsy pieces of plastic at the sides so you need a super wide table for it.
On the other hand, at least it doesn't need to "boot up." :D
That's a bit of a cop-out. If someone else wrote a letter into the wire-cutter asking about the best skim-milk, and the response was that skim milk is nutritionally inferior to whole-milk, so you should at least buy 2% milk if you aren't going to buy whole, and I actually want skim-milk, am I "not the target audience" for the article?
> The also are not going to put high-quality panels in any "dumb" TVs they do deign to manufacture
I don't know how it currently is, but it used to be that there were far fewer panel manufacturers than companies selling TVs, so anyone with enough volume could make a TV, so this is only true if "they" encompasses all possible TV manufacturers.
It’s like having the bass turned up but for video.
I remember when HD TV's came out and it was mind blowing the difference between an old and a new TV. We had 3D TV, 4k TV's come out during that time period and they were fine, but viewing content in HDR was the first time in a decade I realised "wow there has been another shift". My partner would struggle to call the difference between our 4k TV and our older 1080 TV, but she absolutely adores the HDR on the newer LG.
100% luma is going to be "the brightest object shown in all of your media collection" which is probably the sun. Since on my computer monitor, 100% luma is usually used by UIs to represent a blank piece of paper, I toggle the brightness on my monitor when watching a movie.
It's a disingenuous response to an honest question introduced as "by far the most-asked among Ask Wirecutter readers", and a disrespectful, misleading way to treat their audience.
---edit--- I trusted consistent Google and DDG searches for the rest of this comment, and I shouldn't have. The following is not correct. ---/edit---
Not just readers. Is this how Wirecutter treats brands who don't treat with them? "We suspect it stems from an FTC complaint and a class-action lawsuit that Vizio..."? Why throw Vizio under the bus so explicitly? Is it because Vizio has never played ball with Wirecutter?
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site%3Anytimes.com%2Fwirecutter%2F...
I do not connect it to the Internet and it works fine.
EDIT: here is one article in which they recommend a vizio model: https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-lcd-led-tv/
I know it varies by user but I got nothing back from Google. I posted the DDG link assuming it would be a little less variably tailored for others. That's the first time I've seen DDG overfilter rather than overselect. That's disappointing. On to Startpage I guess?
https://www.startpage.com/do/metasearch.pl?query=site%3Anyti...
But most projectors lack some or all of these features as well, and they have no trouble recommending a projector...
The reason they need to provide "security" updates is because they're connected to the internet in the first place!
It should be a perfectly reasonable ask that your data not be sold out beneath you for products you use - whether it's your car or your TV or your weather app on your phone. Half of the Smart TVs out there are Google TvOS stuff asking for google accounts.
If Software Freedom Conservancy win their lawsuit against Vizio for GPL violations in their TVs, you will probably be able to install open source Linux distros with Kodi on any Vizio TV and soon afterwards lots of other smart TV vendors will be similar. Eventually the geeks will create something like OpenWRT for TVs, a distro focused on improving the experience of open source TVs.
The one I did get and keep was DumbTV.org, as I thought that it may be more valuable to promote a basic sense of principals that made a TV a "DumbTV", and promote that as well as work to promote brands who were consumer friendly.
I would discuss giving up that domain if it would be of interest. My email is my username at gmail dot com.
https://support.google.com/googletv/answer/10408998?hl=en#zi...
If you don't want to connect to the internet, you can select Basic TV at setup and get the equivalent of a dumb TV.
Pair this with a horrible PS support and Sony is banned for life for me.
Yeah, or degrade performance, or brick it, or make the UI even more ridiculous, or fill it up with cancerous ads. No thanks.
If it barely works at all, don't update it.
For anyone happy with up to 1080 (prices go a bit silly above 1080, at least in AU) and substantially less-than-vanta-black blacks, but appreciate viewing size (about 2 metre diagonal for us) and not having furniture obviously / perversely oriented around a rectangle that's almost always blank, it's an absolute boon.
Plug it into your RPi, NUC, etc - where the OS / UI 'smartness' is at your discretion - job done.
Very much this is a big part of it too, for us - we're not 'TV in the background' people.
The (very) few people I know who are find the idea of a projector-only infeasible. For us it's just another feature of the arrangement.
It sounds like a well defined niche. I wish it was a bit less of that, so that I could upgrade to a bit less noisy, with a bit brighter picture, at a lower price point than what they seem to be going for here in Northern Europe.
I don't think I would want any of those features.
and openlgtv:
but AFAIK due to their complexity and the continuous changes/updates/releases by the TV manufacturers they tend to be outdated or however compatible only with relatively old models.
This lets the authors also recommend extra tangential items ("get a projector!").
On another note, my trust in these types of things have gone down overall (every google search for "best yadda yadda" yields a list with affiliate links now, unless perhaps you append "reddit" to your search).
Wirecutter still has some trust for me. Anyone else?
Other than Wirecutter and consumer reports I feel all I have is sleuthing Reddit communities and even then it’s hard to tell if the users aren’t undercover salespeople
I can't think of any of these that I care about.
https://www.aei.org/carpe-diem/chart-of-the-day-or-century-8...
TVs have been so commoditized, if you were a TV manufacturer, how would you stay in business in the next thirty years?
You cannot just "not connect your TV" because if you connect to ROKU which is connected to the Internet, your TV can access the internet.
Source: I bought a TV a few years ago, and it somehow popped up an ad even though I didn't connect it to my WiFi. Did some research, and that's how I found out.
As far as HDMI over TCP/IP, I actually tried to get a TV online once via a Roku and Ethernet over HDMI but it didn't work. Where you able to confirm this? My issue might been my TV's fault though. Seems like something Roku would want to disable anyway since they have no incentive to get your Smart TV online and would probably prefer if it wasn't.
I am adverse to a smart TV because it just adds unnecessary setup, GUIs, remotes, and cognitive load. A TV should be a monitor, not a fancy hub with in your face content.
I deduced the path because an ad showed up that was for a recent film on the setup page. I don't have cable. It could not have been planted in the TV's storage, unless the TV was very new. The only way it could have shown an ad for a film is if it had access to the internet, which I had not set up. I didn't bother checking traffic with WireShark. I asked HN and that's how I found out (old alt account from years ago, don't remember and my stylometric match isn't high enough to find it). I returned the TV the next day because it was too small: I had tried to downsize from a 58" to a 30-something-inch but it was too hard to watch. I could be wrong, but that was my report. Encyclopedia Brown and The Case of the Mysterious Movie Ad.
TLDR: "Even though you're asking for a not-smart TV, we're denying the premise of your question: you don't actually want one after all. Here are a few smart TVs you might like."
I have a 60" Sceptre dumb TV, it's the exact one that comes up in every single thread on this topic. It's 4K, it cost about $400-$450 whenever I bought it — 3 or 4 years ago — and it is great. It cannot connect to the internet, it doesn't know what a Netflix is, and it has all the ports I need.
I disagree with you; the answer they give is pretty reasonable. Sceptre TVs are recommended everywhere you look if you search for dumb TVs, they're not hard to find. But people looking for a brand new TV often want common modern TV features, like HDR. Heck, I'm holding on to an old plasma set until I can get a decent OLED at a reasonable price. Hopefully where "smart" features are either absent or enthusiasts have worked out how to eliminate any privacy hazards.
A $400 Sceptre is very much not what I am interested in. But I am interested in a dumb, privacy-friendly screen! It's not "denying the premise" of wanting a dumb TV to point out these limitations, as well as offer what is the most practical alternative for most people - just don't connect it to WiFi.
Many of the Sceptre 4K models have HDR. MEMC as well. Likely the $400 price point is blown at that point, but who buys 1080p and cares about HDR?
They denied the premise of the question. The question was "Can You Recommend a Not-Smart TV for Me?" and the answer wasn't just "no, there are none I can or will recommend", which would be one thing. Instead the answer was "I'm not going to answer that question, because you don't actually want the thing you said you want". Since some people want dumb TVs, and they do exist, it would have been possible for the author to recommend the best example of that product, whatever they felt about it personally, or whatever assumptions they had about what the questioner actually wanted.
I guess I didn't feel, reading the article, that they were saying that. They never said that you don't really want a dumb TV, they said that none of them are good purchases because the vast majority of people are looking for features that the dumb TVs don't have. From the article:
> If you can find one manufactured recently that isn’t smart, I don’t know that I would trust it to be worth what you’re paying for it
It's not that it's a mistake to look for a dumb TV, it's that that none of them are (in the opinion of the author) good buys. So it's not so much denying the question as it is making the assumption that the question-asker is probably looking for more than just the one "feature" of "dumbness".
I see a huge business opportunity selling simplified consumer devices to the elderly. I'm surprised CES hasn't yet created a specific category or certification for elderly-friendly devices.
I'm sure the audience here who hates smart TVs would also prefer more elegant and intuitive devices.
My mom (94 this year) has an iPad since more than ten years (she uses it for basic things, news, e-mail, facebook) and a smartphone (again using it only for basic things, like, you know, making phone calls) and never had any (major) problems with them.
Last december we had to change her TV (here in Italy they are switching to a new HD broadcasting standard that her - only a few years old BTW - set is not compatible with) and all suitable TV's I could find were "smart" (there are a few requisites like having an audio output - 3.5 mm jack - to connect her hearing aids repeaters).
Even setting it with "no connection" (there isn't even the Wi-Fi at her house) and turning off all "smart" or "advanced" features, the stupid tv from time to time likes to randomly display a prompt for this or that action needed, but (due to relatively poor vision) she cannot read them unless she stands up and gets nearer.
It is an inconvenience.
LG's annoying menus and motion-controlled pointer are a good example of bad UI.
I will say though, I've only ever owned LG TVs since flat screens came out, and I've never had a problem with the "just don't connect it to the internet" strategy.
A flat panel display gets a computer to "run" it. We get that, if you're adding a tuner capable of decoding digital broadcasts or cable signals, it can do that without doing reporting on what you are watching.
Your TV does _tons_ of processing to display SDR content (24fps pulldown if the panel isn't 120hz, motion/judder compensation, "sport mode" and a bajillion of other things, and these get orders of magnitude more complicated when HDR gets into the picture (tone mapping is a Whole Thing!), and that's before we've even started talking about compensating for physical quirks of different panel types.
And this isn't the "motion smoothing" (though it also does that!) kinda processing, which purists will want to disable. Some of those are configurable and can (should) be turned off, but many of those are just what's required to make the image look good, without messing with the "creative intent" or whatever.
OLED displays need to have another layer of processing applied to make sure they don't burn-in; there's another layer of logic when displaying near-black content (turning a pixel takes more time than switching a color; sometimes you don't want to turn off a pixel for a single frame if it's gonna be lit up in the next again, etc, etc.). There are other consideration for other panel types, you also have to worry about heat and bajillion other things.
This is why you won't get a high-quality, dumb TVs.
You just physically can't make a high-end TV without putting a powerful SoC in it. And if you're doing that, you might as well install an Android on it for a nice OOTB experience.
Intersection between people who want the best picture quality you can get, and who are very... particular about what software runs on their TVs (and aren't satisfied with "just don't connect it to Wi-Fi") is not big enough to make a product for, to put it very delicately.
People who don't care about picture quality _might_ buy "dumb" TVs, but margins on those are so much smaller, nobody cares.
Would you really call the OOTB experience on these nice?
Those image improvement algorithms don’t run on a general-purpose CPU, there are specialized chips for that.
They are definitely running on the same _chip_, but you're right that (some of) those operations are not running on the generic ARM CPU cores. There is dedicated silicon for some of those fore sure, but it's all part of the same SoC.
Take a look at something like MediaTek Pentonic 1000: the product page talks about the included CPU and GPU ARM cores, but that SoC is responsible for _so much_. It dictates how many inputs your TV can have, it contains all the media-decoding blocks (AIUI, including things like ATSC!), and _it_ handles Dolby Vision, ALLM, and half of the niceties of modern high-end TVs.
So for everyone that doesn't have enough engineering bandwidth/competency/money to build their own silicon for things like this (which includes, oh, say, Sony.), and if you're buying off the shelf, you're getting those cores!
Might as well run Android on them.
[1]: https://www.mediatek.com/products/digital-tv/mediatek-penton...
I keep hearing this. How did we do it in 2005? Because I was definitely watching HD SDR content on large displays in 2005, and we didn’t have the monster SoCs back then that we do today.
In fact it wasn’t until modern “smart” displays started coming out maybe 10 years ago, Cable switched over to HD content, etc, that I started noticing major issues with jutter, lag, etc.
Maybe it's a little more complicated if you still have cable or something, but unless you're watching live sports, there's not much value there.
Monitors won't have an over-the-air tuner, so, you'd need to use an external device to watch broadcast TV.
HMDI from a computer to a monitor or a projector would work fine.
It comes down to upgradability for me. The display is going to last far longer than the smart software running on it. Turning on my TV takes a full minute and a half before it will accept inputs from its remote, I've periodically connected it to the internet to check for updates and in two years there hasn't been a single one.
That's not true for every TV but in general my experience has been the built-in Roku, and other smart TV features are poorer quality than the stand alone sticks and either don't get updates at all or significantly less frequently. Because of the nature of these appliances they aren't as disposable so manufacturers have less incentive to provide those updates and high quality experiences as the stand alone products.
All that smart poor quality software on the TV itself compromises the core functionality of the TV itself which is being a good medium for the display of a user's choice content.
Exactly.
Same objection applies to appliances, "smart cities", and so forth.
No thank you.
The journalism quality is outstanding.
What it actually states is this:
"Any headline that ends in a question mark can be answered by the word no."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betteridge%27s_law_of_headline...
One option is cheaper (Spectre) and one option is more expensive (commercial), but you can, in fact, obtain a non-smart TV today and they listed 0 options for them.
In any case, if the question is "recommend a dumb TV to me" the answer should include at least one dumb TV, even if the editor wants to note that they aren't as good as his favorite TV.
This article is like if someone asked for a recommendation on a new bike, and the answer was "cars are faster, buy a car and pretend it's a bike"
Infuriating in either case.
Wirecutter wants to tell me what is the "best" when I really want to know what is the cheapest product that will satisfice my needs.
Isn't this solvable by just plugging in a $50 streaming stick of your choice?
Another bonus is my TV UI hasn’t changed despite changing and upgrading TV brands.
edit: Appears to be an urban legend, with not much substance to back it up!
Mostly theoretical though.
But I think you are right this could potentially let the device connect itself :(
I'm sure someday it'll be impossible because they'll embed 5G chips and do it over cell without involving your consent, but that day isn't here yet.
On a 70" 4K TV a pixel is about 0.4 mm x 0.4 mm. If the mesh were close to the screen I think about 30% of the pixels would have wire in front of them. Of those 30%, 1/6 would both a horizontal and a vertical wire in front (let's not go crazy and talk about orienting the mesh diagonally or anything like that), and 5/6 would only have one wire in front of them. So that's 70% of pixels not interfered with, 25% having one wire in front of them, and 5% having two wires.
The 25% with one wire crossing would have about 20% of the pixel occluded by the wire. The 5% with two wires crossing them would have about 36% occluded.
My guess is that the screen could be seen pretty well through that.
I've seriously considered getting a roll and building a cage.
There's also emf paint that one could use.
Works pretty well for MR at 3T (which is actually more like 2.89T) though - 125Mhz ish.
Then of course there’s a lack of 5G. I certainly don’t have any where I live. Just about have 1 bar of 4g near the window.
WiFi/Cellular convergence as a concept also doesn't seem like the most unlikely future.
So they'll add a $50 LTE/5G modem to the BOM just to save the trouble of entering a password using arrow keys, a process that takes maybe 2-3 minutes?
I've seen others in this thread argue embedded cellular isnt worth the cost, but this misses the critical point - if it costs almost nothing (we are close to this point already) and is already built into every off the shelf SoC, of course manufacturers will use it. We are talking pennies per unit at scale here in future.
The auto industry has already done this - Ford for example have embedded cellular analytics you can't turn off (or at least its non-obvious to me as an owner) on every single new Ford and has done so for several years now, and you don't pay a penny as the end user, even on their most basic entry level cars.
Same goes for any other appliance that radiates RF signals (IoT, etc.).
If cell access is essential, what happens in a place without cell access, much of Alaska perhaps?
I hate to think of all the lawsuits resulting from drivers who drive into locations where cells are out of range and get stranded.
Similarly, what happens when the cell phone system breaks down? And does that mean I can't buy a car if I live in an area with intermittent, weak or no cell or internet service? Hate to think what the manufacturer's sales department would think of that.
On the matter of reverse engineering, it seems to me we're just on the cusp of that. Hackers as still getting organized and aftermarket manufacturers have still to tool up for complete computer replacement kits. Reckon we're only at the very beginning of whole new industry.
Oh, I nearly forgot, the Right to Repair movement has only just begun to get organized. If manufacturers try to stop us altering something we've paid goid money for then they'll be in for a long political fight.
I do this on old smartphones that I have no intention of ever using as a phone again (say for testing APS etc.). It's dead easy, a razor blade through the circuit board tracks that connect to the antenna(s) and it's all over—no phone, with or without SIM (i.e.: no emergency service) and no WiFi or Bluetooth.
Very simple really.
This coffee machine is equipped with M2M (Machine to Machine) techology which may be activated in due time with your agreement. Thanks to a SIM card already integrated in the machine, such network connections will offer new services (subject to further terms and conditions) to its customers and improve the after sales process by automatically communicating machine troubleshooting / diagnostics to our Customer Relationship Centre (depending on country requirements and specificities).
https://www.nespresso.com/shared_res/manuals/zenius/www_Zeni...
And if coffee pods don't come with always-online DRM yet, I'm honestly surprised at Nespresso's lack of dedication to this dystopia.
If so, then there would be hell to pay the first time if happened. If it works sans connection, then do what I've said elsewwhere and that's to cut or short out the antenna lead.
Removing the SIM may be deemed provocative by the manufacturer, if there's no signal reception then that's a different matter (the user can't be blamed).
I wonder if I can use it for mobile data.
All over, done permanently. Never another internet connection.
There'd be hell to pay if they ever did that. Moreover, it'd be impossible to keep the fact quiet if deployed at any reasonable scale.
A much bigger looming threat is the possible closure of terrestrial Free-to-Air TV broadcasting (it was an early agenda item to be discussed at the 2028 WARC/WRC (World Administrative Radio Conference) but was dropped early on.
That it ever got there in the first instance is a very big worry, it shows that people in high places have been or are considering such a move).
The Samsung was very chatty, but didn’t connect to an unsecured wifi network I had setup for testing.
It’s gone now and an equally chatty Sony is in its place - with not network access.
It won't forget network passwords without a full reset. So if you connect to download firmware then disable the connection, it is one click away from someone re-enabling it. If there's an unsecured network available, you're only 2-3 clicks away from joining that.
With other people in the house using it, the only way to reliably keep it off the internet is to connect it to a network, allow it to verify the connection works, then block it from making any more outgoing connections at the router level. It seems to be ok with this situation and doesn't complain too much.
My original plan was to setup HDMI CEC and lock away the Samsung Remote to prevent people from getting into trouble. But when the TV is turned on vi HDMI CEC, half the time it wants to immediately run the OLED refresh cycle, and will automatically shut off and start doing that unless you actively prevent it from doing so with the remote. This is annoying because they have a setting to run the OLED refresh at night when not in use. It's almost like they sabotaged this use case on purpose to force people to interact with the Samsung UI.
I should have bought a projector, assuming one can still get projectors that aren't similarly infected.
I will not make the mistake of ever connecting one of these to the internet again, and if I have to buy a Giant monitor for 2k, so be it.
I'm 90% sure that the flash drive on the TV wore out and they want me to replace what is otherwise great working hardware for features I don't even want anymore.
About a third of the time it will insist my Xbox is a 1440p/60Hz input, and I can do nothing about it except reboot all the things.
[1]: https://old.reddit.com/r/LGOLED/comments/vhbqru/remove_trend...
https://www.inverse.com/tech/sony-2023-4k-smart-tv-picture-q...
Rtings is currently running a huge 2 year burn in test with 100 TVs [1], and have had major burn in issues on both their Sony and Samsung QD-OLEDs (while the LG WOLEDs don't have burn in issues, though their G2 had a column of pixels fail).
The LG G3 seems to compete with the QD-OLED panels in terms of colour and brightness this year with its MLA panel [2], but I'm not sure if it's worth the increased cost for most people compared to buying last year's C2.
[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my1lyUE7WVM [2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEnChcCQ2Dc
Edit: https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/tvs-on-the-market
One of the recent updates to my TV's software introduced bugs to a feature I use a lot. It is very infuriating, and it's one of the reasons I refuse to buy an expensive TV. Even if the hardware is good, I'm one software update away from a piece of garbage.
I'm never buying another "smart" TV.
It’s less cringy than ‘oh, it’s <the_store_name@<my_domain>.com’
My Roku one has none of those problems.
It's 1/4 the area, minus all features, AND the same price!? 8-/
It's a great option, for dell shareholders...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#HDMI_Ethernet_and_Audio_R...
It's 1/4 the area, minus all features, AND the same price!? 8-/
It's a great option, for dell shareholders...
2. Google already knows everything I do and I trust them more than TCL.
Playing a stream from the dongle just freezes after 30s. I'm pretty sure it's the TCL hdmi implementation, because the dongle has been utterly flawless previously.
Also! your average joe would think this is for the Google account and would probably put in their Google password. I found an option to use a link number instead. How many Google passwords have been exposed to TCL?
They typically broadcast on 43-33 cm band, (700-900mhz), and 2.4/5 ghz.
You'd also be wrong about Apple's privacy protection.
I've always found its better to know than not know, since you can only control what you know about.
It spams me with in-screen notifications at least once a week with either Privacy Policy updates or advertising new apps or TV shows.
Great TV but definitely need to leave it unconnected.
I repurpose the old laptops that I seem to accumulate for this. Just about anything made in the last 10 years can handle at least 1080p video, and will have an HDMI output. I add a small wireless keyboard and use my regular desktop environment. But you can add a remote and use one of the open source media centre suites.
I do wish more TVs had a monitor-like sleep mode and accepted the command for it over HDMI. And were actually low power when they sleep. That seems to be pretty spotty.
It's also useful to have the Unified Remote server [2] running on the media computer so you can control it from your phone when you need to.
(not sure if it's discontinued btw; I struggled to find it in Canada last few years; but there are seemingly-identical unbranded alternatives usually available on amazon, e.g. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08H8LH7GP/ )
I needed another one for work a while back and ended up buying one of these (at $15, not the current price): https://www.amazon.ca/Computer-Accessories-Wireless-Keyboard...
It's actually relatively good, but not as good as the N5902.
https://www.amazon.ca/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Compatible-Raspb...
Of course it's not a real keyboard and mouse but it works fine.
I do use an universal remote most of the time though (Harmony 700), but I use the Rii when I exit Kodi and I'm back to my HTPC's Linux environment. The Rii is then enough to open a browser and YouTube, for example.
Unfortunately it follows that with "occasionally connect the TV to the internet for a minute to see if it needs any firmware updates" which is pointless if the TV is already working properly.
Perflyst and Dandelion Sprout's Smart-TV Blocklist
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Perflyst/PiHoleBlocklist/m...
Except that as we saw with the CSAM debacle from a couple years ago, Apple will absolutely be scanning any device they have for anything they deem unsavory. I still can't believe people think Apple is a benign player in all of this
Apple and Google both scan images uploaded to their cloud for CSAM. Apple decided that they had the horsepower to do it on the device instead for only those images that would be uploaded to the cloud with the apparent intention of enabling end-to-end encryption for photos.
Kodi.TV on an ARM board is my preferred way to avoid Apple surveillance.
I built IoT sensors with embedded web interfaces 20 YEARS AGO that booted in under a quarter second. It's intolerable in the third decade of the 21st century that we're stuck with boot times for appliances that are two orders of magnitude slower that that! (And FWIW, Red Hat had full Linux booting in under five seconds over a decade ago, but it never caught on...)
How is that even possible?
CRT Broadcast monitors are somewhat of a collectors item for retro game enthusiasts.
This is from 2 days when there was literally nobody using anything in the house because I was out of town.
Problem solved!
__
Edit: Dumb-type PVRs/STBs (the ones with no internal storage and only a USB socket to add your own drive) are dirt cheap ($30 - $50 at most) and are available just about everywhere. Moreover, they're very small and compact. Because of their convenience I'll take them anywhere (couple directly into my PC or laptop HDMI port, etc.).
I have at least six operational and two are new and still in boxes (I almost consider them as disposable items—I just draw on a new one when and as necessary).
My last TV purchase was a real shitshow ~5 years ago. As many are noticing, the manufacturers don't seem to want to make them. I ended up buying a supposed smart TV, but have never have given it access to the network, and disabled everything I could in it's interface.
I use a combination of Youtube-dl and OSMC to download content I want, without the commercials or ads. Luckily one of my local networks has a substantial youtube channel, so I got local content again, as well as PBS.
As much as you can, get an AppleTV and leave it on.
I bought a 50” Samsung about 7 years ago and at that time I had trouble finding a TV with PIP. I upgraded to a 65” LG OLED about a year ago and the picture is absolutely beautiful, it took a while to get used to…seeing a fly on the video had me thinking I had a fly in the house…but alas no PIP. I’ve found alternatives, I have my OTA hooked up to an HDHomeRun and use TiviMate for viewing…so I can get an octobox if desired, but it would still be nice to have the PIP option, especially for something that costs $1500+
On Google TV it could apply app & service configuration settings to turn off networking, recommendations, home screen content and just enable the input-switcher . Since it is Android based, there are lots of tools using ADB, debug tools, device policy etc that could work.
I get most of my TV from free to air streaming apps and other streaming services, and I used a HDMI switch. So I can physically label the different devices.
I’d love a shitty panel with no features.
Are you wanting to go back to the days of being unable to watch Netflix without a computer and a HDMI cable, and not being able to play music or look at photos using just your TV?
People who request these kinds of products are just making noise and tyre kicking, when in fact I really doubt they want a probably needlessly useless TV.
I agree that smart TVs are nice to have, especially when they receive Airplay, YouTube, whatever straight from my phone. Dumb TVs are pretty useless on their own, I only use mine to consume internet content anyway.
Yes! That’s exactly what I want! (Except replace “computer” with “Apple TV”).
I… I don’t do these things with a TV?
Basically, you’re saying that TVs were useless 20 years ago? Why they hell did every household have one?
I literally just want something where I can hook up a few consoles and a stereo system, maybe an HTPC if I feel like it. It should have good, responsive controls, be solid and dependable, and large enough that I can comfortably view content and read subtitles from my couch.
That’s it. That’s all I want.
NO, those are also smart features and I don't want them either.
Also what many people have missed is that the promise of data collection revenue is what has made TVs unbelievably cheap. It’s crazy that you can get a 70” for less than $500.
If not buy a giant computer monitor. It’ll be easier to find and will be close in price to a dumb TV
HN crowd making a great display of short sightedness here...
I don't care about any of those features except for HDR, and I suspect that's the case for most others who would be interested in a dumb TV.
That said, the easiest solution is really just to buy a smart TV and keep it off your network and connect a laptop or HTPC. But I've heard horror stories of newer TVs auto-connecting to whatever open network they can find and some even having LTE radios, so who knows how long that strategy will work.
A dumb TV is a panel, some inputs, and an OSD menu that hasn't changed since 2005. It has exactly two functions: select an input and display that input. It should turn on in seconds, not minutes. Changing inputs should have at most two steps and take no more than two seconds. It should have exactly as much processing power as is required to pipe an hdmi signal to the panel and nothing more. It should be so fundamentally incapable of injecting ads that the very idea is laughable. Hell, I'd even prefer it not have speakers.
Disconnecting your smart TV from the internet only means it doesn't spy on you and advertise to you. It doesn't solve any of the other problems making these devices awful.
Could the TV do everything the appletv could? Yep just worse and I can’t get rid of it
Well-written software is what helps here, not smartness or lack thereof.
This isn't some silly /r/privacy - tier paranoia about not wanting being tracked by your home devices, though it's a reasonable concern to an extent.
It's just about the people who don't care about those shitty overpriced streaming services and just want to watch the news without having to wait 15 damn seconds for the thing to turn on or worse, having to be more than patient to switch channels after turning it on because God knows what is running on the background and the channel hasn't changed in over two minutes in spite of having spammed the remote already.
The only way to solve this problem for good is to regulate the industry, but failing that, the least we should do is make it clear we're not interesting in buying their shitty spying products by refusing to hand over our money in the first place.
Buying the TVs, connected or not, signals that you support them and what they are doing, and more importantly it makes doing the things they are doing profitable for them. It reinforces the behavior you're trying to stop. That's not just "imperfect" it's counter-productive.
At a place like Hacker News I expect there will be people who have the technical know-how to make a non-smart TV, or even a modular, pick-and-choose, TV, and crowdfund it. At the very least.
Lots of industries that aren't tech-adjacent, or are very expensive, need regulation in order to stop particular practices from becoming universal trends, but TVs shouldn't be one of them.
Sometimes, it will always be more profitable for a company to refuse to provide what consumers want. There is no price they can charge us that will ever beat charging that same price and also selling every scrap of our data they can on top of it.
If the skills and materials to construct a quality TV were common or easily obtainable, I'd agree that the smart TV problem would be something we could solve ourselves in our own garages, but I'm not convinced that's the case which means nearly every one of us will be dependent on someone else to build and sell us displays, and as long as that's true we'll be at the mercy of their benevolence and their continuing willingness to reject huge piles of easy money.
Smart TVs never really turn off. If they did, they would take too long to "boot up" and consumers would be frustrated and angry. They're more like a laptop in a not-too-deep sleep state when they're turned off. Another commenter mentioned their smart TV consumes 10-20W when turned "off". That's just gross. It should consume milliwatts, at most.
And yes, I know that there are things in my house that consume far more power. But I actually get something for that power. A smart TV that I will of course never connect to the internet gives me nothing for that waste while in standby mode.
Here's a link to a previous discussion. https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=32888844
Only thing I can think of is SSH FTP, but not sure how that ties in?
It’s a classic HN reply
To mitigate this, you can pick a certain 4-6 hours of each day (24h isn't allowed) during which it'll make sure to stay "booted" but with the panel off. Or if you don't enable this, you'll enjoy lower power consumption but have to deal with this foolishness every time you turn it on.
Unless you externalize smarts to e.g. HDFury VRRoom (strongly recommend), these panels need some smarts, regardless.
You seem to be of the opinion that it's the principle of the thing, mine is avoiding ads and bloated/slow interface. To me, keeping it disconnected avoids all of the problems of it being smart. Those "smart features" are not features to me (or most people here), but neither are they anti-features.
I have a 70" dell monitor used as a a tv in another room it draws 0 watts in standby.
Ads aren't the only reason why a 42" 4K TV is generally much cheaper than a 32" 4K monitor
"Dell 75 4K Interactive Touch Monitor - D7523QT":
* https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-75-4k-interactive-touch...
"Dell 65 4K Interactive Touch Monitor - C6522QT"
* https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-65-4k-interactive-touch...
Use-case seems to be conference rooms.
I finally bought a cheap speaker with a 3.5mm input because none of my existing Bluetooth speakers have one, so I could plug it into my monitor, but it’s crappy audio and a crappy workaround for a crappy limitation.
Sure, other appliances may suck down more power, but at least you are getting something valuable for that energy use and expense.
Unless you have a crazy old bad refrigerator that TV would be up there with the most costly appliance per month for most people. WHILE BEING OFF.
You are off your rocker here
I have lots of dumb devices in my house I don’t want piling on $7 so the manufacturer can try to earn $0.30/month in data fees. I have multiple TVs, a washer, a dryer, a fridge, a cryo tank, lots of things. I don’t want them to waste $7 each.
That’s a lot for something functionally off.
we're in this sorry state of affairs because of people accepting lower quality without protest, while expecting everything to be cheap. Companies are in a bad spot, and so are consumers.
Doesn't that seem like a pretty crap deal if you're planning on using the TV for 5+ years or so?
https://gothamist.com/news/park-slope-childrens-salon-trolle...
I rent a room and the tenant is on the same WiFi network. They politely messaged me one day saying “I think you’re trying to connect to my TV”. Which as it turns out was our toddler mashing the screen on YouTube Kids. I worked out on YouTube kids how to disable the option in the app.
My point being that it’s not always a rational person you’re dealing with, being able to at least disable the option is essential.
Data about attention (viewing habits) is so immensely valuable, who knows what the next generation will do to obtain it? Years ago, the TV execs told us not to have a private conversation in the TV room. We all know how very easy it would -- if they wanted -- to exfiltrate your data in a variety of ways: Kismet, group Xfinity/Fios wifi passwords, or even ultrasonic beacons between cell phones. Why would they leave cash on the table if they had the option?
Probably because your smart TV is never actually turned off, but sits in a standby state that wastes electricity.
But also are there any actual confirmed cases of TVs doing this? The comment section here always fear mongers about it (kudos for not mentioning Amazon sidewalk), but it isn't anything worth worrying about currently.
In my suburban-American experience, they are in fact they are more common these days as more consumers purchase and own ISP-provided equipment.
> But also are there any actual confirmed cases of TVs doing this?
Given the nature of proprietary closed source software, I am willing to accept a less than charitable assumption of what they do.
There are literally thousands of paranoid security researchers who would love to post about something like this (hi), and none of them have. That’s hardly conclusive, but if it’s not good enough for you then maybe you should reconsider whether society is the place for you.
This paranoid alternate reality where tv companies are paying every ISP for backdoor access is very, very far away from flipping the “opportunistically join open networks” bit. It’s also not borne out by either research or logic.
> at all costs
Nothing works like that. They don’t care about you, beyond the pennies they can make. If it costs (and it would) they won’t do it.
A convenient rule of thumb for this advice is that anyone who should follow it doesn’t need it. Everyone else should be redirected to a teardown video.
If it sounds like the idea comes with a tinfoil hat, best to investigate with a skeptical eye.
Ehhh I beg to differ. I got a Sony TV a year or so ago with Google TV built in. It's been a nightmare - the GUI is basically unusably slow (literally 5 entire seconds from button press to response) and the whole experience sucks.
So I did what most reasonable people did - plug in some HDMI device that doesn't suck (in my case, an Apple TV) - except that didn't fix the problem entirely.
You see, this TV really really really wants to boot into Google TV. So sure, you have your dongle plugged into this HDMI port full time but it just won't reliably boot into it. Even after setting the HDMI port as the default, half the time it insists on booting into Google TV anyway. And sure, I can grab the TV remote and switch inputs - but again, it's multiple button presses on a software suite that takes ~5 seconds to respond to a single button press. It's a good 20-30 seconds just to switch inputs.
It's maddening. So maddening that I am in fact in the market for a dumb TV just so I can be rid of this cursed UX.
I'm not particularly puritanical about this. I'm willing to live with "just disconnect it", but that solution doesn't actually work for me!
1. Lots of ads of local TV stations on the system update notifications.
2. Often it nag me about other random things too, like asking me to change the brightness settings or telling me that using the TV for too long is unhealthy.
3. Often it decides to stop work properly unless I accept license agreements. Sometimes I accept and immediately deny them again, and then the TV works fine for about a week.
4. It started to show ads for porn stuff. When I complained to my country authorities they said it was just "documentary recommendations, not ads". And thus why I can't disable them by refusing to accept the EULA for the ad service.
This is perfect for me as I still find the picture quality of plasma sufficient and don’t want a “smart” TV.
This sort of annoyance would be far more tolerable if the onboard software wasn't such a gigantic pain.
But it could be worse - I owned another (slightly older) Sony "smart" TV that wouldn't even display the Input switcher until ~60s after boot. It would literally give you a "TV is still starting, try again later" prompt for a good minute after the screen turns on. So I guess this is something of an improvement.
I've had a couple of Bravias over the past 7 years, with the newer of the two having been purchased in 2018 and I've not seen the smart TV homescreen once since configuring the last used input as the default. Neither were ever connected to the internet though.
Also, as I understand recent Sony TVs include something called "basic TV mode" that turns off all smart functionality and make them function much more similarly to dumb TVs, perhaps yours has this feature?
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2021/02/the-best-feature-of-...
Problem is, it's not. And turning it on is slow. Changing channels is also slow. I'm not picky or principled at all when it comes to TVs, I just want it to work without pissing me off by taking forever to do stuff, and they're failing the test. My old TVs were always fine.
Also, my last smart TV bricked itself, which I'll write off as me being unlucky but it probably wouldn't have happened with a dumb one. When I was shopping for a replacement and asked the BestBuy employee if they have any dumb TVs, he said he gets that question a lot, and no. So I don't think I'm a weirdo for wanting one.
It didn't used to display an ad for Apple's channels but now it does and it requires the remote to dismiss... Previously you could just blindly airplay something but now you have to airplay + dismiss the ad with the remote.
One of them will. This thread is full of conflicting anecdotes: one user's smart TV turns on quickly and works like a dumb TV when it's not connected to the Internet; another user's TV takes a full sixty seconds to get going. The fact that one smart TV will do the thing does not at all imply that another one will.
And if you have to search for what kind of smart TV will act like a dumb TV when you want it to, you are already looking for a dumb TV! You still have to look at reviews and seek out the other people who didn't want any of this corporate surveillance catastrophe to find out what happened to them. It is the same search process with a slightly broader scope at the cost of a more complicated definition of that scope.
Meanwhile, I got a 40" Sceptre dumb TV from Walmart last year and it's been a very satisfying decision. It was cheaper than most if not all of the smart TVs, too. And I don't have to treat it like a contamination risk or worry about it finding an open WiFi network. Maybe I'm just one of those old curmudgeons who doesn't care about image quality. Couldn't tell you.
I agree. The question should be "What TV doesn't force smart features upon me" instead. I've had an LG Smart TV for four years. Never connected it to the internet, only use it with Apple TV and PS4. I notice none of the issues that GP mentioned.
PS. the update fixed the picture immediately beyond what I was able to achieve by messing with the exposed configs
It's more common for HN to argue against something on principle, even when there's a relatively simple solution/workaround.
Not saying there's something inherently wrong with arguing against something on principle, but just saying that it seems more common on HN, and saying that the inverse is "such a typical HN response" is not my experience at all.
> It should turn on in seconds, not minutes.
I'm assuming this is hyperbole, but if not, I think there are other issues if it's taking minutes for even the smartest, most connected and loaded TV to turn on. Every smart TV I've owned has barely taken seconds to turn on, and I usually don't go out of my way to keep it disconnected from WiFi (unless, for example, I'm trying to avoid an update).
1. Wakes the TV up in SDR, syncs with the Apple TV;
2. Starts playing audio;
3. Which wakes the soundbar up;
4. Which forces a re-sync as the TV switches to eARC mode;
5. And then the TV notices that the Apple TV is offering to negotiate Dolby Vision, so it does so, and re-syncs again;
6. Which kicks it out of eARC mode, so it needs to re-sync another time to get back into it…
And that’s all just if I left it on the Apple TV’s input when putting it to sleep. If I sleep the TV by sleeping a game console when it’s the only thing awake, and then wake it up later with the Apple TV remote, then there at least two more resyncs involved, and also seemingly ten seconds of complete blackness where it’s doing literally nothing.
Also, this one’s not the TV’s fault, but YouTube for tVOS gets so confused by these repeated mode-switch re-syncs, that if it’s what would be playing on resume from sleep, then instead the audio will play from the YouTube video, with the first frame of the video frozen on the display and the event loop stalled for another ~60s (I.e. my prompting to go into the task manager to kill the app is ignored, and then 60s later it suddenly happens, but at that point the video resumes so I don’t need to do it any more.) Doesn’t happen with any other app waking from sleep.
Oh, and sometimes the TV will just wake to its home menu despite being woken up by the Apple TV remote, and while the system apps will be responsive (once I grab the TV’s remote), it will refuse to open the input switcher, or the device preferences (in order to gracefully reboot it.) when it does this, I have to get up and unplug the damned thing to get it working again.
Removing app support from the TV would not fix it. Actually, it sounds like using the smart features of your TV to watch video instead of an Apple TV would actually reduce the bugginess?
I have a 10 year old non-smart TV. It predates HDR, but just basic ARC and CEC still regularly trips it up. To the point my 5 year old knows how to re-select the sound bar output to fix when the audio breaks.
When you turn off a smart TV, it doesn't actually turn off. It's similar to a laptop when you close the lid and it goes into standby. Consumers wouldn't tolerate a several-minute power-up sequence every time they want to watch TV -- and rightly so -- so instead, they sit there, wasting power and money in a standby state.
I'm not even sure that's the case for the ones with WiFi. Software 'kill switches' have become a ridiculous oxymoron.
And it's soon going to be impossible to dodge it going on the Internet anyway. Manufacturers are hard at work making sure that if any of any neighbor's Internet of Shitty Insecure Things [TM] device participate in the scam, the smart TV shall use your neighbor's device to escape and access the net. I forgot the name of the protocol / "feature", but it's a very real thing.
So unless you live in the middle of nowhere, like in a cabin in the woods, it's not going to work for much longer to "no enter the WiFi password" to "just don't connect it to the internet".
Just buy a projector made to project reports at corporate meetings or the like. These are still totally dumb and has added bonuses you can get a diagonal bigger than what any TV can offer and it's much closer to the movie theater feeling.
To the tune of the Sesame Street song: Faraday cage, sweeping the signal away
I don't know if transparent Faraday cages are possible, but there's apparently at least one company that will EM shield entire rooms.
Depending on your budget, you could faraday enclose the whole room / building rather than trying to do an individual device.
As related reading from back in the day: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempest_(codename)
Damnit. They're going to embed signals in the harmonics of the sound system, and invert the sound systems of neighboring connected devices to act as microphones. So you'll need a Faraday cage and a fully soundproofed and seismically-proofed room.
There's been an urban legend going around for years that smart TV's automatically connect to unsecured wifi but nobody's ever been able to demonstrate it a single time. (Probably their kid had connected it intentionally or something.)
So you might be conflating that urban legend with Amazon's network of Ring devices. But that's extremely low bandwidth, and there is zero evidence TV manufacturers are trying to build in automatic connections to it.
Again, if you have actual evidence then please share, otherwise this is just scaremongering and FUD.
https://patents.google.com/patent/CN111885330B/en
Your car already does this. It's trivial for your television to do so as well.
Sidewalk doesn't yet have a TV manufacturer onboarded but an ad profile is well within the size limit for their spectrum. We're talking kb of json.
So it's not unfounded, there are patents. It's not speculation, it seems to be a pretty active area of thought for manufacturers of televisions, and it's used now in your car.
I mean, bandwidth doesn't really matter if we're talking about whether the device is sending home private information about what content you watch. It doesn't need to stream video back to Samsung to be basically malware.
> When fully operational, 5G networks will have the capacity to connect 500 times more devices than 4G. This is the foundation for the future of Massive IoT—a world with a million or more connected devices per square kilometre.
https://www.rogers.com/business/blog/en/understanding-massiv...
Now for the sentence that will ruin my credibility: they've done a pretty good job of immunising (ha) everyone against any criticism of 5G by associating it with antivaxxers etc.
> By injecting people with a severely weakened dose of fake news (the virus) and refuting it in advance, over time people can develop mental antibodies – psychological immunity – against misinformation.
Your neighbours' smartTV might take on an AP role for yours.
There's no escaping the ads and tracking with these devices.
You say "there's no escaping" and yet there is. Just don't connect the wi-fi. And done. You've escaped.
SmartTV are not something you want to support with your money anyway.
I'm not one to care too much about picture quality and all that so my $300 projector is the perfect device for me: - Turns on pretty quick just has to warm up - Fully dumb, no internet connection or crappy web UI - Giant screen for me to see from anywhere comfortably seated in the room - I just hook up my computer with HDMI for steaming, nice speaker hooked up with 3.5 mm audio
I'm not aware of any awful flashy interface (I think there is an advert for the manufacturer before it syncs to the HDMI connection - 4 big red letters). That's it.
Personally I can live with that. In fact I was considering getting an 8K version of the same to replace the 3 4k monitors I have.
As I said, it's not something I care about.
- Streaming services often work better with native TV apps than external devices, especially in regards to frame consistency and HDR support.
- The upscaling/interpolation ASICs in TVs are really good. Until very recently, especially on streaming services, PC and Android upscaling was not good.
Hence I dont really want a "dumb" TV/Monitor anymore unless I will never watch any kind of video content on it... mostly because of streaming DRM, which is also awful, but still.
you’re allowed your preferences, but recognize that they aren’t universal and try not to steamroll over someone else’s divergent preferences.
Which is why people responded that way
Which is why people responded that way
“such a typical HN response” to miss that in order to advance your own separate observation or complaint
"Just don't connect it" is the pragmatic option that normal people do.
> It should have exactly as much processing power as is required to pipe an hdmi signal to the panel and nothing more. [...] I'd even prefer it not have speakers.
So I think a monitor is what he wants.
If he truly doesn’t care about any of those things, then I doubt he’d be here complaining about it. So imo at least some combination of the above is implicit.
There are fewer and fewer non smart tvs that have a baseline of quality.
It’s reasonably easy to not turn on the smart features at all, and leave it possible for software updates for the photo, or other operational tweaks.
As for difficult input changes I haven’t about those in a very long time since a harmony hub or something similar can handle that and anything else needed pretty trivially. Smart TVs also come with apps that make input changes one click.
e.g. $150 TV + $75 chips - $100 rebates = $125 -> negative cost and +10% margin to add chips!
And the problem is that we as customers are still charged the full $225, not the essentially nothing.
I operate on the scale of hundreds to thousands of units, and Bluetooth adds less than $5 to each unit. At millions, I assume it's more or less free.
A smart TV is a dumb TV with an extra processor. No matter how you shake it, the smart features are extra hardware added on to the dumb TV.
And besides, smart TVs are already much cheaper, because the manufacturer is spying on you and selling that data in perpetuity. They're injecting ads into your TV menus and keeping that profit.
Your smart TV is priced so low because it's subsidized by the manufacturer selling your privacy.
What you're talking about was a paradigm shift in the fundamentals of electronics. Silicon wafers in the trillions are cheaper to make than vacuum tubes in the thousands. It was a radical shift in the way the industry worked. It literally revolutionized the entirety of global society.
Meanwhile, Samsung took the guts out of the cheapest android tablet they could find and stuffed it in a TV. It's really not at all comparable.
However, it is not a computer monitor, which is the explicit item at question here.
…convincing, isn’t it?
Dear god, has this become a thing??
> good price/feature ratio
When the features aren’t useful to you they don’t increase the price/feature ratio. When the features are anti-features, you could even consider the ratio to be getting worse…
Your question is answered in the comment you replied to
I've got a brand new 48 inch LG oled smart TV. Never connected it to internet.
I hook-up a shield TV on it.
Boot time is 5 seconds and goes directly to the shield TV.
I have no idea what the actual tv os looks like.
Never had a single issue, it just act as a dumb monitor would.
[1] https://needgap.com/problems/64-make-tv-dumb-again-privacy-c...
And that’s forgetting that some of those, when not actively connected to any specific wifi network, will just connect, on their own, to any nearby open wifi network.
See http://web.archive.org/web/20210828035115/https://forum.deve...
Lol. I’ve worked for Samsung’s TV (and ad business, I’m ashamed to say) and this doesn’t surprise me one bit. The culture was actively user hostile and gave zero fucks about security or quality. All that mattered was how much data we could suck out of the users home. That included automated content recognition so we’d know what you were watching at all time including porn even if it was streamed via your laptop, or reporting all the IDs of all hdmi devices connected to the tv, or scanning your internal network to find out what devices are there to then sell this info to advertisers and have you switch from Nintendo to Xbox for example.
Fwiw this was the first and last time I’ve ever worked in adtech, I’ve sworn to never ever enable this industry ever again.
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/23/smarter-living/how-to-sto...
They also unilaterally decided to add a new "ad" feature to existing TVs
https://www.adweek.com/convergent-tv/samsung-ads-debuts-thre...
It can just take network from whatever is attached and connected.
It is a smart tv in the sense that it has YouTube Netflix etc apps, but it’s working perfectly fine without internet access (it has local network only), works with home assistant, shows no ads ever (even if online), starts up in 5–10 seconds from button press to displaying the picture, has a dedicated remote button for switching inputs, and looks fantastic (OLED with tons of calibration options)
I was previously using a Sony LCD TV from 2015 or so. I originally bought it as a monitor, but it became the living room TV when we bought a house. While I originally liked the built-in Android TV, it aged poorly. The TV's hardware decoders have silicon bugs that never got patched around. Netflix stopped working after they deployed their new compression a couple years ago. The only way I was able to get it working again was by having a friend at Netflix file an internal ticket. All they did was add the model number to a block list so that it would fall back to the older compression.
The LG is a joy. It's been a very satisfying purchase. Honestly, the Roku might as well be the TV's built in OS. My 4 year old can reliably turn it on and launch Disney+ in 3 button presses. Also, I bought it refurbished with warranty on eBay for $1k; the only flaw was a couple stripped out threads for the table stand. I hung it on the wall, so well worth the $400-600 discount.
I've plugged in my Steam Deck as well. It's a little bit clunkier due to lack of CEC, but I am using a random Thinkpad USB3 dock I salvaged from a junk bin at work several years ago. I suspect a more modern dock would be flawless.
If I watch a show, I'd be thrilled if somehow that information makes it into the data at the disposal of whoever has the authority to cancel or renew it, or to greenlight something new from those creators. The worst part about TV before streaming was that the few hundred "Nielsen families" at any given time, with either diaries or special TV-metering boxes, were the only people whose viewership actually counted.
(but also, I'm one of those unspeakable monsters who would rather get targeted ads for things I'd like versus the mass-market ads for Ram Trucks, Budweiser, Verizon, etc).
- the shows we were really engaged, and made an effort to be vocal still didn't flourish. Because guess what: the target market was middle age women at home, so strongly signaling we were in it wasn't helping.
- the more targeted the ads, the crappier the experience was.
We're leaving this with youtube now, ads often fall into domains I know lot about, and I know they're mild scams or sub par offerings that are trying to gain market through brainwashing, as their competitors are gaining shares through word of mouth.
I'm currently getting flooded with Adobe Photoshop ads, and god no I don't want to give money to Adobe.
The result is that I can carry the TV with me, no ads except the ones in the TV broadcast. If you do that, wire the Raspberry to free the spectrum from its signal to the router. Only the phone will talk over wifi in that stream. It improved dramatically the quality of the stream. There are probably TV dongles for Raspberry alternatives.
Anyone who's been to Vegas in the last few years know they have pretty decent passive 3d screens (a la Nintendo 3DS) albeit with strict viewing angles. I dont mind something with polarized glasses for viewing as it gives a bigger angle. I just cant find anything on the market. There it seams are a few high end projectors, but my viewing needs are not that big and the room gets a lot of light and would like to be able to have it on during the day (in non 3d mode)
Are there any other 3D tv lovers on HN?
Dumb spying devices:
* Smart Phone, ad phone * Smart Watch, ad watch * Smart TV, ad tv
Possibly the older device was smarter since that did not spy on you.
They're great, they have a bunch of inputs and let you do cool things like picture in picture and multiple computers displaying to the same monitor, tiling, etc.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-43-ultrafine-4k-uhd-monitor-...
I've not dug into details if they are actually all non-smart TVs, but perhaps I should. Ability to cast to the damn thing easily from a phone is really nice, though.
If you need OLED, use Gigabyte AORUS FO48U (48").
And here is a 55" quantum dot monitor: Gigabyte AORUS S55U.
Works for me!
1) Most projectors are not smart, so it solves that problem.
2) You don't have a gaping black hole in your living space urging you to be sucked into watching it. I despise TV and mass media and what it has done to our society. A projector at least hints at film being more of an art form that can be appreciated for its own sake. You have a movie night, you set everything up, you pack it up when done. It's intentional, it's not just "I'm bored, let's scroll through Netflix and find something watchable".
If you do want to put it on the net, here's some help on disabling privacy-busting features: https://www.consumerreports.org/electronics/privacy/how-to-t...
Not in this day and age where libraries track your usage and sell that, too.
Classic style, simple functionality with endless ability to fine tune all the parameters.
Essentially a studio monitor. It should become the standard for color and picture by which everything else is measured. If it can effect the picture, than there should be a setting. The utilities interface should be straight forward and burned onto a raid level 4 array of non-volatile memory. And it should never ever need to be updated. The silicon should fail before I ever need to buy another Tv.
Thanks for essentially nothing instead of actually answering the question, Wirecutter.
The TVs have gotten a lot better in the last 10-15 years so even basic ones work great. I would have been thrilled to have this TV as a kid.
In addition to giving you a homebrew channel with lots of useful tools, it also removes much of the tracking and advertising "features", making the TV behave more as should be expected.
It’s completely dumb but it’s got 2 hdmi inputs. I love it.
bright, designed to last for ages, built like a brick shithouse, plenty on ebay.
They also come in huge sizes, for those that want such things.
1. Planned obsolescence at the firmware/app level. Eventually, manufacturers and app maintainers stop supporting your TV. When that happens, you need to change the whole smart TV. Dumb TV + smart box means you can upgrade separately and at your leisure.
2. Privacy concerns. Smart TVs openly monitor your usage, which includes not only how you use the TV but also what you watch on it, and sell that data for marketing purposes. Often you need to agree to the tracking to get many of the connected features - for example, my TV demands that I accept data collection to use AirPlay. Locking features behind an EULA and tracking is crappy, IMO. TBH I don't know if Apple TVs are better, but I Pihole my whole home network anyway.
3. Bad UI and UX. Many smart TVs are a PAIN to navigate. Convoluted, inconsistent menus, menus hidden inside menus hidden inside menus, slow start-up speeds or even straight up slow UI. The added complexity doesn't really justify the extra features, IMO. Purpose-built smart boxes normally do a better job. And if you don't like the current UI, selling it and buying a new one is much more convenient that selling your TV and buying a new one.
Is this actually true? I thought I've heard of some TVs connecting to any open network automatically if it was connected to a secure one.
1. It will be honored 2. It will not be changed to default during update
Do you check every setting on your phone/tv/pc after you boot it up? It seems very impractical to me.
As a user, I assume that unless I explicitly changed something, my setup remains the same. I used to be able to trust that manufacturers won't try anything too stupid, but at that time the cost in performance, gear and PR was sufficient and incentive to sell information on you was not as prevalent.
(Not affiliated)
That's what I've been doing for nearly two decades now, with a HTPC to control what I'm watching.
No need to enable wifi for what's essentially a dumb display then.
If the remote had hard coded input buttons instead of all the ones I never use, I'd be very happy indeed.
(Swapping between an Xbox and the HTPC).
That is, say your panel connects via 30 pin header, does any one make a third party hdmi to 30 pin panel board you could attach in there?
This is factually incorrect. The defining feature of a Smart TV is internet connectivity. You wouldn't know it from the selection in your local Wal-Mart, but there are a great many TVs in the world, with flat panels and menus and everything, that lack the physical ability to connect to the internet. I have one hanging on my wall.
You can certainly do that with a dumb TV and a chromecast.
You can even (apparently) buy them at Wal Mart.
Time for a LineageOS for media devices like TVs? Probably already is out there.
Westinghouse used to have basic TVs, but I see all their big ones are smart now.
Connect it to the WiFi to get the security updates that connecting it to the WiFi makes necessary!
It says just don't set up wifi, but TVs could still connect to any available open wireless network it can find. It says to use an old TV and just use Roku or Google Chromecast but that just moves the aggressive spying and ad pushing to a box next to your new TV, so that it's really helping.
The only answer right now seems to be to use a computer monitor and those are increasingly becoming "smart" as well.
I bet the more tech-minded consumers can open it up and physically disconnect the wifi module pretty easily as well.
I hear there are models that do nag about connecting, so thoroughly check reviews to see that’s not the case.
A few years ago, I started getting artifacts from Netflix when playing from Apple TV. After researching, I found the codecs in the TV were out of date. I connect to Wifi and updated Android TV, and everything has been peachy since. Ideally the TV would come ready to support HDR10 or whatever but that was not the case when I made my purchase.
TL;DR - streaming requires codecs and the TV may need an update to support the fancy, 18-bit color the TV is capable of but wasn't available at the time of purchase.
Cable WAS non-smart. Wirecutting and streaming by definition is smart bwahaha :))
It's 1/4 the area, minus all features, AND the same price!? 8-/
It's a great option, for dell shareholders...
buy your tv, don't connect to wifi. connect to your device of choice, done.
trying to avoid smart tvs is so silly, as you basically exclude nearly all of the good ones.
It’s totally fine that you have different priorities and values than us, but that doesn’t invalidate ours.
1. Cost. I'd rather not pay for hardware and software I won't use.
2. Environmental impact. Unused and unwanted hardware is waste.
3. Unauthorized users connecting to WiFi. TVs are often in common areas. The settings menus have no authentication. So an unauthorized user might connect the TV to a WiFi network.
4. Automatic WiFi connections. TVs might connect to open or partnered WiFi networks without telling the user. Hard to know without an audit.
5. Accidental WiFi connections. Settings menus might be unintuitive (or deceptive) enough to trick users into joining WiFi networks accidentally.
6. Future data leaks. TVs might be recording data and saving it to internal storage. The next owner of the TV could connect it to a network, and years of stored data would be leaked. Again, hard to know without an audit.
2. Indeed
3. You can disable this
5. Disable
6. Disable
Basically most of your criticism is resolved if you never use the wifi to begin with, and all apply to any hypothetical wifi enabled device you connect to a dumb TV, anyway.
There is no more a “smart TV tax” than a “Windows tax”. Smart TV manufactures make money via selling user data that more than offsets the $20 BOM for the smart TV components just like computer OEMs make money installing Windows crapware.
> Environmental impact. Unused and unwanted hardware is waste.
What unused hardware? When the built in smarts go obsolete, you buy an external device and connect.
> Unauthorized users connecting to WiFi. TVs are often in common areas. The settings menus have no authentication. So an unauthorized user might connect the TV to a WiFi network
That’s true and it was happening a lot when we first moved into our condotel (condo that’s rented out like a hotel when we aren’t there and we get half the proceeds) and when we stay in hotels. I bought a wifi to wifi bridge to have a private network.
I'm pretty sure the NAND is degrading in my 2015 Sony Bravia, its bordering on unusable with its hangs, jitters and crashes.
I barely trust any manufacturer to produce consumer grade goods that actually do their job properly, the best way to get more stuff working right is to narrow the featureset and hope that they're not completely incompetent.
If you do a full hard reset of my particular TV, it can't even run its own OOTB setup smoothly. Sony have got it playing some ambient chimes in the background, but the audio constantly breaks up and glitches.
Its got an 8 core processor and it can't even handle audio playback in a bit of the UI which should have had heavy QA.
do you know how long it takes to turn on an iPhone? you may have a stroke if I tell you.
The defining feature of a TV is the presence of a tuner. If it doesn't have a tuner for OTA (or cable) channels, it's not a TV.