Also, some of those magnetic USB charging cables to keep them charged without fiddling with plugging in cables. The nice thing about these is that the same magnetic cable can attach to both microUSB and USB-C dongles, so you can charge any small device with one cable. And the dongles are tiny so you just put them into all your devices and leave them there, super convenient.
If you want options, rtings.com does extremely detailed reviews with more quantitative information than you could ever reasonably apply to a purchasing decision.
Quoting OSTz on Reddit (https://www.reddit.com/r/UsbCHardware/comments/10xj74r/why_d...):
> Direct USB-C to USB-C extensions are explicitly forbidden for safety and performance reasons because they defeat built-in safety mechanisms.
> All USB-C to USB-C cables should support 60W charging, but there are also cables that support 100W and 240W. USB-C chargers and devices identify a cable's capabilities by reading what's known as an electronic marker (e-marker) inside the cable that explicitly reports >60W charging and/or 5Gbps or faster data transfer capabilities. A USB-C charger will first read a cable's e-marker and adjust its power output based on what the connected cable's maximum charging capacity is.
> The problem with extension cables in general is that they don't (and can't) have an e-marker, since by design, normal cables only have one addressable e-marker. Therefore, neither the device nor the charger is aware of the presence of an extension. If your USB-C to USB-C extension only supported 60W, and you connected it to a charger/device combo that could do 100W or more, you could start a fire. This failure is particularly insidious because it can potentially lull the user into a false sense of security; everything might work as expected until they change something, like upgrading the charger, and then it could fail catastrophically.
> Another reason extension cables don't work well is that the signal integrity requirements for USB-C's higher transmission rates are very strict. Believe me when I say that cable makers would make longer cables if they could.
I bought a cheap set off of Amazon, and then realized I also wanted non-USB-C tips as well. While the brand I bought wasn't selling them, turns out that the same factory manufacturing them also manufactures for other brands, and so on like the third page of Amazon results I found another product using the exact same tips, but this time also including other types!
I've had MacBooks for two decades. Until my recent purchase of an Apple Silicon model, they all used proprietary power connections (first barrel, then MagSafe) on one side of the computer. Since I needed a power supply in two different places, this always meant obtaining a second Apple charger.
My current MacBook is the first I've owned that also allows charging from any USB-C port. For the first time, I can
* use a small USB charger I already owned (A 27W unit in my case. Yes, the computer does charge under use, albeit slower than with the Apple charger)
* charge on the opposite side of where the Apple charger goes (which is very useful for my aforementioned multiple-location usage pattern)
* still have an auto-detachable connection by, like you, using a magnetic USB connection (<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BCJVL7CD/> is what I use)
Most of them could be better, have fewer people, be more focused, etc. -- sure, no doubt. But you can't make every meeting into an action-packed saturday morning cartoon.
Like, these compliance forms ain't gotta fill themselves out, and each team has to be there. These JIRA and code-review meets are gonna be lame, but we gotta do em...
And if you specifically mean the cheapest possible models, yes wired will have cable noise, but wireless will have horrible connection and battery issues, so let's assume we are talking about a good above-average model and in that case you can expect no cable noise.
edit oops there was already a whole comment thread lower on the page essentially saying the same things, sorry about that
It is also easy for the magnetic connector to short the power into a data line, and because it doesn't connect in the proper pin order and has no 'mid-plate' it has no mitigation against arcing. See this picture:
Notice how some pins are longer than others? They are designed that way so that they connect first and disconnect last, so that ground is always established before and after other pins connect. This prevents connecting and disconnecting a cable from frying your electronics.
"The mid-plate shall be connected to the PCB ground with at least two grounding points. The mid-plate shall be designed such that plug pins A4, A5, A6, A7, A8, A9, and B4, B5, B6, B7, B8, B9 do not short to ground during the connector mating process with an effective 6.2 mm receptacle shell implementation." [1]
[0] USB Type-C Spec R2.2 - October 2022, Figure 3-13, Page 65.
[1] USB Type-C Spec R2.2 - October 2022, Section 3.2.1 Interface Definition, Page 43.
* https://www.usb.org/document-library/usb-type-cr-cable-and-c...
Almost everything I have now uses USB-C. The few micro USB and Lightning devices hanging around don’t have the same high current concerns.
It could've also been the USB hub I was using, but the problem disappeared once I changed the USB cable with magnetic adapters to a cable with ordinary connectors.
The data ones are almost universally sketchy, as they expose pins (and sensitive internal circuitry) that should absolutely be kept away from the outside world.
There is an emerging range that reduce the exposure somewhat, but I’m still wary.
* https://i.imgur.com/n3IjcQE.png
I encourage everyone to actually read the USB 3.2/C/PD spec sheets.
Aside from that: It's obviously not enough for a laptop, but what other devices do you really need that much more for in your day-to-day life? I think I haven't used a USB charger capable of outputting more than 10W in a while (aside from my Nintendo Switch and its charging brick, but because of the dock it wouldn't make much sense to use a magnet adapter anyway). At home, there's always a charger nearby, and when I leave the house my phone usually has enough power anyways, or the trip is long enough for me to throw a powerbank in my backpack no matter how full the phone battery is.
And if you end up in a situation where you really need to quick-charge something, there's nothing stopping you from just taking the plug out for a short while.
Or, just 'don't use shady spec violating components that don't exist in spec for good reasons'?
> Also, do devices like that actually respect that 900mA thing, assuming they're capable of pulling that much power?
USB-C will not 'give it' power unless it conforms to certain parameters like having a resistor on the CC line. This is the reason that crappy devices which merely changed the physical ports from micro-USB to USB-C and come with a USB-C (device end) to USB-A (charge end) will not charge with a USB-C to USB-C cable. The device never got updated to request the power and the USB-C port on the charger just ignores it.
How no colleague ever informed me, I can only speculate.
I thought my old headset (Logitech G930) did, until I found out the hard way that it was in fact just sending a software command to mute the mic at the system level, and that if the headset was turned on while plugged in to external power it would not properly communicate any inputs to the host system.
Audio still worked perfectly, but volume controls, the "G Keys", and most importantly mic mute did not work in this state. The red light at the tip of the mic would come on but nothing actually changed and audio was always being transmitted to the host PC (which I guess was always true, but the host PC now wasn't muting it either).
I found this out during a lunch break on a multi-day training session, where I let out a Barney Gumble class belch with my mic in the up/off position and the background chatter in the conference call fell silent until someone commented about how my lunch must have been good. After figuring out what happened I then wondered how much had been heard on previous days, but never got around to going back and listening through the session recordings to figure it out.
In addition to protecting against technical failures like you describe, I also don't get in the habit of saying stuff that one day I could accidentally say on a blatantly hot mic or in front of someone else.
The only mute button I really trust is the one inside my head.
The Blueparrott B450-XT is an amazing headset. Did I buy it at a truck stop? Yeah. But I've been on an audio call where I literally stood in front of a box fan with my face against the fan and nobody could hear the fan in the microphone at all. The noise cancellation on the mics is downright amazing and everyone heard me loud and clear over fans, datacenter environments, the works.
- A key light (Godox ES45) to throw a bunch of bright, natural white light at my face. Attached to the desk and positioned tilted above my head so that it doesn't blind me. I don't notice it when it's on.
- A mic (Razer Seiren Mini) on a boom arm attached to the desk, positioned above my face, just out of the camera's sight. Nice, clean sound. Would sound even better if I were speaking directly into it, but I don't like having the mic visible.
- Repurposed an old mirrorless camera (Sony RX100 III) into a webcam for that sweet HD quality. Way better than any of the webcams out there. Needed to buy a cam link 4K card and connect it via a MicroHDMI <-> HDMI cable. Required a dummy battery kit to connect to AC and some setting tweaking, but it works beautifully. Connected the camera to the key light stand with a clamp mount.A well mounted setup with a dedicated microphone is a time saver and no brainer. I'm not too keen on the video and think is lesser important than audio but have been thinking on that too. I invested in an extended mount for a separate display, mic, and lights. I has paid off pretty well.
- Cam link 4K card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09XXBTBYB
- Dummy battery kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078PDCF7D
- Micro HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08C2QMT4R
In terms of camera settings, I think the main ones were switching the file format to XAVC and turning off the display icons so they don't show when I'm on video. Might be worth going through https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/articles/00245829 and trying a bunch of these, even though the page is not exactly for the same camera.After that just plug it in and it's recognized as a USB camera. One other thing I ran into was the camera kept losing settings after being turned off. Turns out there is an internal battery that got discharged after years of non-use. I think I used a micro USB cable with a running camera to get it juiced up.
Good luck!
"Shooting over USB" is not a requirement to use this. The camera only needs to be able to output the preview stream via USB, which works with most cameras.
I've found that the sound is better if I keep it off to the side out of frame instead of above. Especially if you have the setting to make it directional and aim it towards your mouth. You can speak directly to the camera and it picks it up.
I went from terrible echoy voice to rock solid.
Then I got a 16" MBP, which is what I mostly use now for video conferences because I upgraded my Linux work laptop and switched to Wayland and can no longer do screen sharing.
https://www.seeedstudio.com/ReSpeaker-USB-Mic-Array-p-4247.h...
In short, your webcam is one of those things that really needs to work 100% or it’ll end up causing problems at exactly the wrong time. No one wants to have to fiddle with the camera during an important meeting.
I found a sunlamp aimed away or behind something helped me a lot. So much so that I got one of those kitchen countertop hydroponic kits that's time to go off usually when I start work.
The sunlamp + morning coffee perk me right up. Plus herbs and stuff.
I'd just look for what people say in the bad reviews. I generally use mine on the lowest temps, 80 or 90. I don't know what kind of maniac would use them at the higher temps. Every time I turn it on I have to press the button to cycle through the temperatures, a mild annoyance but NBD. It automatically turns off after a few hours which is a feature, not a bug. It used to be that I'd sit down at my desk and my hands would never warm up, now they warm up from the mat and stay warm even after the thing turns off.
I've used a oversized body wrap pad (120V input) and a 24V pad with wall-wart designed for mini-green-house seed planters. The former was comfortable & wrapped in soft, but wasn't a great mousing surface. I do want to point out: in my experience, these are nice for the arm, but notably the keyboard and mouse never really warmed up very much, both remained a bit chill, back when I was in a fairly un-warm draft-y room. It was still really nice to have, but my hands could remain kind of chill, I'd still keep on my nice fingerless gloves. Still, a great addition.
You know who won't complain when winter arrives? ChatGPT...
Alternatively maybe there’s a way to mount a desk warmer under the desk instead of top.
There are some pretty dedicated foot warmers out there too. Depending on the climate zone one is in, all socks and shoes get cold eventually.
I could usually control my CPU use so a magazine could last up to half an hour... but basically I'd feel the warmth coming through the magazine, jump up and switch it with another one from the freezer. Easy peasy.
It's also nice to have a wet cooling towel for the neck, I find...I tried one of those dual neck-mount fans as well, and while it wasn't bad, when it broke I didn't feel it was good enough to replace.
There are lots of whole-body tricks as well, from extra hydration (at least 100 oz. daily here in summer) to sitting on a cushion with more air flow...good luck.
Podman used to be a bit rough on mac but it's gotten significantly better, especially with podman-desktop. docker-compose even works with it as it does something on the backend to swap out the docker socket. I wouldn't recommend doing podman-compose as it looks to be mostly unmaintained? Or at least no new releases have been cut in a couple of years.
Cars come with heated seats, steering, armrests, mirrors, wipers - why not mats?
But as far as I know, using heat lamps directly in your face can be a bad idea because they can emit IR radiation that can harm your eyes, cause cataracts, etc.
edit: it's actually just a normal lightbulb, nevermind
That, and I have a small infrared panel mounted under the desk, which can keep my thighs nice and toasty in winter.
In a cafe or other bright environment they seem to reflect everything around them similar to the way my MacBook screen does which makes it hard to see anything.
I'm speaking only from limited time seeing them from afar though--I've not actually sat in front of one to use or test out in person.
Still, it's a useful device while traveling – nice to be able to plop a decent multi-monitor setup out of a backpack. My model also has a micro HDMI port (and an internal battery) which can be handy if you need a temporary screen for a Raspberry Pi or a machine that usually runs headless.
Yeah, I'm a monster who does Solarized Light.
I have a 2200 nit (not a typo) piece of kit: Feelworld P7, very sturdy aluminum body, either camcorder batteries (multiple sleds) or 7-24V, 1920x1200 7" screen, HDMI in & out. Works well. I've seen larger displays.
It claimed 350 nits. Side-by-side with my M1 MBP, I'd say it might be close to that. A lot of them claim HDR but it's some bullshit definition of HDR - definitely not like the MBP's HDR mode.
I think it's a little bit of a crapshoot as to which panel and board you'll get no matter what the branding so somewhere like Amazon with free returns helps. There are a few more premium brands like Viewsonic and Lenovo.
From the top of my head, I only know ASUS.
...but if I can pretend I use it as a second monitor for work, then it's OK! :D
The iPad and Mac have Sidecar which lets you use the iPad wired/wirelessly as an additional display for the Mac but it's so damn flaky that I gave up and got the portable monitor.
I do carry a cheap HDMI->USB adapter (Elgato Cam Link knock-off) which lets me use my Macbook as a monitor for things like Raspberry Pi's but not sure what the capture rate is.
Got 2 monitors from there - one 15 inch and one 17 inch. Both run in 2k 120Hz. Brightness is OK, never had a problem in a brightly lit room, but I have not tried them out in the sun, like for "working on the beach" type of situation.
When not traveling, I use the smaller one on a VESA arm (the smaller one has screw holes) in vertical orientation for extra screen space next to my 4k larger monitor. And I use the larger portable monitor for sheet music on my piano (connected to Raspberry Pi).
Ordered both from "HDHIFI Store", pretty happy so far.
But I really wanted it to work, I can think of tons of useful buttons I want to have on my desk. Maybe I will give it another try. Can you tell me, have you got any tips, found any good third party tools for working with it? Maybe I just went down the wrong rabbit holes.
But under Linux I used this
https://timothycrosley.github.io/streamdeck-ui/
Works pretty well by my experience under Debian. There are some edge cases like Wayland (see the issues) though.
I sold the Stream Deck XL for two reasons: I didn't need that many keys, and I found out that if you are to use a device like this at home and in the office, you really need two. The setup needs to be the same in all your work places, otherwise you won't bother learning to use the accessory.
As for some other less typical accessories: I use a 3DConnexion SpaceMouse and can't imagine doing any 3D CAD work without it.
Oh, also: for many years now all my monitors are on arms. The supplied stands are always too low, and arm mounting has the additional advantage of freeing up lots of space on the desk.
Does a 16-port USB-A hub count? (in addition to the CalDigit thunderbolt dock)
- global mute button (plugin Audio Mute). This is amazing and the most useful action I've setup.
- screenshot tool. I'm on a Mac and always forget the combination for opening the capture tool, so a physical button is nice to have
- iTerm button. It just opens a terminal, or make it appear if there's already one open.
- clock, because when using fullscreen mode, macOS doesn't show the clock
- weather, because it's cool
- specific to iTerm: a "split vertically" button, because after years of use, I can't remember how to split iTerm
- specific to Firefox: a macro to write this text "-method:OPTIONS domain:xxx.com" because I'm tired of typing it again and again in the network devtools filters
Is this different than the system mute button next to volume up and down?
> iTerm: a "split vertically" button
FYI: you can customize your own shortcuts. I use i3 on linux, so I bound my split and movement keys in iterm to be the same as my Linux ones
A global mute button for the mic, sorry for the confusion. I don't think there's an easy way to get on on mac.
Complex operations that used to take three people can be done by a single person.
For a basic example:
Audio operator fades out background music and brings up video playback audio channels Lighting operator puts lighting into video state Video operator switches from holding slide input on screen to video playback input
Is now one button. Same equipment, same production value. One button. Boop. Go.
Admittedly it takes some additional configuration time, but for something like a roadshow where it is the same sequence of actions every day it ends up being a great time saver.
That said, if you can't make good use of the display anyway, then you can also just take a normal keyboard or numpad and remap the keys. There is some software around for this, or just write your own hacky script. Repurposing old hardware is such an overlooked solution.
I got one to play the DJ air horn sound effect in meetings but between google hangouts, my m2 xlr device, and the stream deck something doesn’t work quite right.
I ended up using Touch Portal[1] and put a phone on an old stand, and it pretty much does everything I want to do. Integrates with teams with mic on/off, hand raise, and reactions, and I created some nice graphs for cpu/gpu/disk load and a UTC clock for when I'm not in a meeting. Desktop app is free and phone app is like $13 or so. Works on Windows/MacOS and Linux support is apparently coming.
It's probably clunkier than a Stream Deck but it's a fraction of the price.
I also have media control buttons to control music playing on my desktop throughout the day without having to toggle the monitor. A mute button to silence things for calls is also frequently used.
Finally, extra buttons to toggle some smart lights if I need to override some pre-programmed schedule.
Other than that, It's been a bit of overkill.
But once I moved from XFCE/xubuntu to KDE (on gentoo, later opensuse), I noticed I don't need it anymore. Bluetooth switching works automatically and NetworkManager has nice widget, SMB/SFTP works out of box.
Now it become a toy space rocket control panel for my kids.
When your kids get tired of it, can I buy it?
I've got a simple bike rear-view mirror, like $10 off of amazon. has a clip on thing, fits fine on my monitor stand.
Same goal -- I've got big ear covering headphones w/ noise cancelling, so you feel crazy isolated and it's hard to tell if/when people, my kids, the dog, etc. is around until basically they're on top of you.
xinput set-prop <mouse device id> "libinput Scroll Method Enabled" 0 0 1
xinput set-prop <mouse device id> "libinput Button Scrolling Button" 8
Where you'd change 8 to a chosen mouse button and the mouse device id to its appropriate value from `xinput list`.What this does is make it so that as long as that button is being held, moving the cursors scrolls instead. It's hard to describe how much better of n experience it is vs. using the scroll wheel. It's much faster, much more precise, and less finger-tiring.
Here's a gist of the Python script I use to set it up - https://gist.github.com/pedrovhb/41e9d5b7b7b5c13fe2c94aa4cee...
edit:
Putting this in ~/.xsessionrc seems to work fine for me on Ubuntu:
xinput set-prop "pointer:Logitech MX Ergo" "libinput Button Scrolling Button" 8
xinput set-prop "pointer:Logitech MX Ergo" "libinput Scroll Method Enabled" 0 0 1
HP: https://press.hp.com/us/en/press-releases/2022/hp-inc-to-acq...
How does that sound?
If you like you can enable the audio and hear each time a particle hit the Geiger-Mueller tube, right through the headphones.
I too don't feel like I've had to mess with audio settings. I have some SteelSeries Actis Pro's I bought a long time ago. They have bluetooth, but there's also a nice usb-based head-unit I use with higher quality, lower latency, and no pairing concerns. It shows present battery level quite clearly (which is highly enduring). The head unit also has a battery charger built in, and the headphones come with a secondary battery. I don't feel like I have to think about charging batteries either; if I have a slammed day of non-stop talking, it's easy to see at the end of the day I have half a battery left & I swap it (which takes <10s). People selling you Fear Uncertainty and Doubt about batteries seem misguided & silly to me. The freedom is amazing. Letting yourself get bothered & concerned enough to trap yourself into a narrow situation is dumb: be skeptical, at least.
A good wired headset can be superior to wireless mic audio when presenting or interacting.
If merely consuming, and hanging around wireless is good too.
The Actis has better microphone positioning by far, which counts for so much.
I'm interested to test the range versus the Rode, but given that I can be 3 floors away & the Actis still fine, I'd be surprised if the Rode really had shockingly better range/reliability/interference-resistance.
I continue to think there's a paranoia & level-of-concern that does not match what modern hardware can do.
I think this is related to the fact that most wireless headphones people have experience with are Bluetooth.
BT headphones have lag, and, when used in duplex mode, have terrible quality. And this lag adds to the one introduced by the conferencing software.
I've got myself a Jabra headset that communicates over DECT. This thing is spectacular. No discernible lag (as tested with games) and the mic quality is better than what I hear from people rocking Bose and Sony BT headphones. The range is great, too. Much better than what I get from my BT headphones.
I have tested a few and find the noise cancelling on the mic for the other party is awful if that's something you are looking for on far too many.
I have a Philips SHP-9000 headphone with a vmoda boom pro mic, which plugs into the 3.5mm jack on the headphones. On the other end, I sometimes attach a cheap Chinese Bluetooth receiver, which can be plugged into any 3.5mm jack, so any wired headphones can be made wireless as needed.
I just need to be sipping something.
The only logic I've found is that it prefers devices that handle both input and output. So, it works OK with my combined headphones + mic, but if I want to use my external dedicated mic + headphones without mic, I have to fiddle with the settings whenever I join a new call.
On Zoom changing either is literally a click away. AND you can test your mic while already on a call so you can listen while you fix your setup.
In Teams, I may have "custom setup" selected, but it'll go right ahead and pick whatever it wants.
A split ortho homebrew keyboard (helix) that I can program with qmk so that I have shift esc enter space and special keys on other layers right where I want them. Or a dedicated Ctrl-a key for tmux. It virtually eliminated my pain. The OLED screens are useless though and I retrospect I should just have skipped them. I should also have put the two arduinos in it on sockets right away because that USB port will of course break and it’s a pain to desolder it.
A “clearly superior technology” (CST) trackball in the middle of the split keyboard that I try and use most with my left hand to give my right hand a break. It’s chunky, well made, uses standard pool balls as the trackball, and can be easily taken apart for cleaning or servicing. Wasn’t cheap though.
I did email them asking but they said they had no plans to do this.
I used to use a USB hub and have the two cables next to one another on my desk, manually unplugging replugging it to transfer keyboard and mouse at once. With USB extenders so both machines have their plus right next to another.
But I saw in this thread there are USB switchers so maybe that’s a solution?
If I was more confident that my work area wouldn't change in the future, I'd try an extendable wall mount. I probably should do that anyway.
I used to have dual monitors, but now I use a super ultrawide 32:9 monitor. It required learning to use window managers since most OS's don't support multitasking setups like that, but I can use layouts now that I couldn't before. I also use PaperWM[1] with it and it feels particularly effective on ultrawides.
UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch Selector 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_shar...
I used a cheaper one before that but it was garbage - kept dropping inputs for a few seconds here and there.
A USB hub is plugged into it, and all needed peripherals go into the hub first, including audio interface, external hard drive, printer etc.
It's solid, boring, and works perfectly. I've never had a single problem with it, even with my X570 chipset constantly doing the old USB disconnect-a-roo that it's infamous for.
Came to the thread to post this in case it wasn’t posted. Quite a ton of actual utility from a small noname box from Amazon for my same-displays-but-different-sources setup (Mac mini for work, PC for gaming).
With 2 monitors, I use one monitor exclusively with the linux laptop, and the other monitor I have on a HDMI switch to switch between the other 3 computers.
[1]: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=354...
The fact that the monitor itself is responsible for display inputs removes all kind of problems that traditional KVM boxes have.
In theory the monitor could also switch headphones audio from one computer to the other, and it works, but the output quality is garbage. So I still have that cable to switch manually.
https://github.com/input-leap/input-leap
Also recently learned about waynergy as a upcoming wayland client. Haven't used either yet as barrier still handles my setup.
When switching from personal to work mode, I just swap the USB-C between computers.
Dunno if any USB-C switchers exist though.
I will say my favorite accessory has been my particular KVM that allows me to switch between my dock and desktop with a special keyboard command. Beats fiddling directly with the many buttons I had to press on my monitor to switch video inputs previously.
My laptop uses the charging USB-C port. My desktop requires 2 cables: 1 DP cable (so I can chain another screen) and 1 usb-c cable to the usb-c upstream port.
Whenever I want to switch, I just need to change the input source on my screen, between DP (desktop) or USB-C (laptop). All USB devices and internet are automatically routed to the right computer.
It works like a charm, really happy with this (but once again, that's an expensive screen)
I always wanted to get a good microphone for voice calls, thankfully a friend of mine had more than a dozen of them, of all styles: dynamic, condenser, long range, cheap, expensive, etc... We spent a couple of hours trying them.
First thing: condenser microphones are great... in a studio. You are probably not in a studio, so if you use one of them, people will hear all the noise around you. Dynamic microphones, usually cardioids, are definitely the best as they, are less affected by outside noise. You can even use speakers and not get annoying feedback. There is one inevitable drawback: you need to have it close to your mouth. It wasn't a problem for me, but it is something to consider if you are doing video, because it will most likely be in frame. It also makes aesthetics a valid consideration.
Now, why the SM-58. Well, it is possibly the most famous microphone in existence, for good reasons. At around $100, it is relatively affordable, it is indestructible, it is an industry standard and it sounds good enough for famous singers to use it. There are cheaper alternatives, some of them excellent for less than half the price, like the Lanen TT1, and higher output level too, but I just like the way the SM-58 sounds, and it was within my budget. There are also podcasting mics like the Shure MV7. A bit expensive, sound quality wasn't worth the extra for me, but it has convenient features, and arguably looks more in place in a video call.
And generally, you should get a XLR microphone, they tend to be much better value for money than the USB or Jack type. That's what the pros use, and getting a XLR input is not expensive. I bought a Behringer U-Phoria UMC204HD for a bit less than $100, but there are cheaper options that work fine (and also better, more expensive ones). Note that for dynamic microphones, you don't need phantom power.
Note that these are wired microphones. The wireless kind tend to be prohibitively expensive. You can get wireless kits for XLR though, they start at around $100.
You also fail to mention that, presumably, if you ever need to assert yourself in a meeting you can use proximity effect to sound like a movie trailer ;-)
But I was afraid the U-Phonia was USB.
These type dynamic mics actually can be used with a carefully wired XLR-to-1/8 inch cable, and plug straight into the regular analog PC mic input.
Even though the PC supplies 5VDC intended for a cheap condenser mic, if the voltage runs through the SM58 it will not hurt it.
Your carefully shielded (well-grounded shield) sensitive unbalanced precious signal goes somewhat unprotected on the motherboard down a copper trace for a few cm until it goes in a single analog input pin of the A/D converter section of the audio IC. From that point on it's as digital as your specs will support, so ideally in this configuration there are actually no "active" electron devices like transistors or vacuum tubes (even the best have some hiss and distortion) in between your mic capsule and your A/D.
Well when you enable the PC's software-controlled analog mic boost, that's when you engage an active transistor gain stage for your mic signal before it goes A/D, it makes the mic volume a lot more comfortable, but then you depend on the audio quality and noise level of an on-chip analog silicon feature which may not be so good, depending on the exact audio IC.
But at least the mic boost is only one little gain stage, not a number of components that your analog mic input, however balanced, can often encounter before reaching the A/D process of a USB audio adapter.
Now there is not zero latency with the mic plugged into the 1/8 inch jack, but people sometimes think so when they're accustomed to USB.
I'm only using it for calls, delivering training and co-working though. If I was recording an audiobook or doing music production I would switch back to my previous setup I think.
Have a look at this review https://www.anandtech.com/show/7125/kinesis-advantage-review...
You can do it locally with Docker or Podman, if you don't want to be tethered to GitHub.
Also, it has Cherry MX brown switches, which are not my favorite to say the least, with their middle-of-the-ground sort-of bumpiness. I much prefer either fully clicky or fully linear ones.
I used to have awful RSI and switching to the Kinesis Advantage for a year fixed it. I don't use it anymore but I don't use the apple keyboard either which I think caused the RSI in the first place, or maybe it was just how I was banging away on it.
I don’t like the lag, connectivity, and battery issues of wireless mice, this fixes all of that! It feels _better_ than a wireless mouse, because it has no wires in the way also with zero lag.
But mouse bungees are cute, so I might upgrade and retire my tape solution.
Yes connectivity issues can be a problem in certain environments but luckily this has usually not been a problem with receivers not in close proximity to interference, including USB3. Battery wise I have had cheapie mouses that last months on a pair of batteries and expensive mice like the Mx master that are pretty no fuss recharging.
But you do you with the mouse bungee cord :).
Also, from my experience USB-C likes to giggle itself loose under really energetic movement.
Just buy 2 sets of rechargeable batteries then I won't have to worry about battery life ever again.
It is heavy though.
https://zowie.benq.com/en-us/mouse/ec1.html https://zowie.benq.com/en-us/mouse/ec1-cw.html
The Logitech G Pro X Superlight is 63g and some of the newer wireless mice are coming in at under 50g.
It's now very unusual to see a professional FPS player using a wired mouse. The performance is indistinguishable and for most people, charging is less of a nuisance than cable management.
e.g. Logitech PowerPlay
To make it really nice, I paired it with one of those XXL mousepads. Cut some corflute or other material that's the same thickness as the PowerPlay, and you can have your own nice large mousepad while having the wireless mouse charger hidden beneath it.
It's very well possible my wireless mouse setup has lower latency than most wired setups.
That’s why I said essentially no lag. A good gaming wireless mouse will do better than many wired mice. In those cases it’s better but it’s still not enough difference to matter to anyone.
The advantage of wired is not just aesthetics. This thread started because of any accessory to deal with the wire. I don't need to bother at all with a damn wire in the way.
> This might as be considered a law of physics - electromagnetic energy will always travel faster, more accurately, with less interference, with less required current through a conductive medium than through air.
I mean you might want to go back and read a high school physics textbook - because you’ve got the speed of light exactly backwards.
The reason digital wireless signals may have additional latency has nothing to do with the propagation which is faster in air.
Also I’ve never seen a networking over powerline system that worked better than Wi-Fi. Not all conductive paths are effective for signals.
> Wired is ALWAYS the objectively superior option in all metrics except for superficial & subjective "aesthetics", all else equal.
Which is why professional musicians and broadcasters would never use wireless microphones and pickups. (sarcasm)
Also griefing about battery seem like horseshit too. I have a travel mouse with a single rechargeable AA battery in it. I have a variety of gaming mice, including a Razer Naga Epic from ~2010 that I've literally worn the buttons through to unreliability on. These mice all have li-ion batteries and they all work fine. Maybe in aggregate I've worn through like a single rechargable AA cells worth of use over a decade. The rate of attrition on rechargeable batteries is tiny.
It's just incredible what the cables-or-die undead-alliance goes through to justify their fanatical anti-cause.
Slower? Not really, not according to the links already shared. Less bandwidth? My headphones, my mouse, my keyboard are nowhere near their practical limits over wireless. Higher latency? I just cited 0.2ms, which seems absurd to grumble over. Higher error rate? This is not a problem I've ever experienced. More prone to interference? Literally never seen an issue. There's just no real solid reports on this being an issue. It's not seen with any statistical significance in real reviews.
Higher power requirements? Yes, having some awareness of batteries is required, but if you set things up (slash most devices are set up) to not be caught unprepared it's a remarkable low-toil system. Most devices can charge themselves. Most will operate for a week without charge. The only problem is being a total newb who doesn't have any handle at all, who gets caught out unprepared in the cold, by having absolutely no indicators & no warning. Once you actually start trying to use these devices, once you actually start looking at the battery level, the power concern is remarkably low issue.
Nobody said you can’t use your damn wired mouse if it makes you happy - but latency is not an actual reason to prefer a wired mouse.
> Again, wireless can be superior, but only when you are deliberately cherry-picking the least efficient wired setup to compare to the most efficient wireless setup, just like your argument for mice.
But earlier I thought you said it was a law of physics that conductive mediums were always superior to air. Also that the speed of light in air is slower than a “conductive” medium.
You don’t seem well.
Yes they are. “The terms light, electromagnetic waves, and radiation all refer to the same physical phenomenon: electromagnetic energy.”
https://science.nasa.gov/ems/02_anatomy
Light and radio are both electromagnetic energy. Radio waves and light both propagate at the speed of light. The speed of light in a vacuum is a universal constant. The speed of light in various mediums is always slower. Among copper, air and glass, light/EM waves will propagate the slowest in glass and the fastest in air.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_of_light
> cannot make use of light through air even a fraction as efficiently as light through fiber optic cable, due to a guaranteed minimum amount of light interference in air that a fiber optic cable will never have, right?
No, not right. As someone else pointed out a point to point link through the air will have lower latency than fiber (glass or plastic).
Whether or not a signal can be carried accurately and error free through any medium involves concepts beyond a basic understanding of the speed of light. But in the real world one will encounter reliable well designed wireless links and poorly performing wired links.
There's a clear misunderstanding here.
Light and wireless signals used by mice etc are the same thing though, just at a different frequency. They propagate at the same speed, the speed of light, which ironically is slower in glass.
Wireless signals in air travel faster than light in a fiber optic cable (and faster than electricity in copper).
although I agree that powerline networking is garbage, I have encountered older construction houses that create an environment that is just about impossible to conquer without specialist wireless equipment.
passive blocking via exotic wall materials, older drywall and fairing compounds that contained metallic particulate, various metallic accoutrements -- and accidental active jamming from poor wiring.
>Which is why professional musicians and broadcasters would never use wireless microphones and pickups. (sarcasm)
eh -- this is just an effective and allowed compromise. A performer will usually prefer not to drag wires around a stage just from the sheer physical discomfort from the additional weight and the worry of a trip hazard on an already hazardous stage.
That said , many performers opt to avoid such conveniences due to a perceived difference in quality. [0]
[0]: https://www.quora.com/Why-are-wireless-rigs-not-the-standard...
eh — this is not a “purely” aesthetic or superficial difference, which was the foolishness I was replying to: “Wired is ALWAYS the objectively superior option in all metrics except for superficial & subjective "aesthetics", all else equal.”
I've never seen it go beyond 200mbps for any real run I've had. Often the link in these shitty big row-houses I've lived in has resulted in more like ~40mbps. Those numbers sound awful. But I'll take it any day, in these wifi noisey spaces. Having reliable <2ms latency with absolutely no drop outs has been an absolutely killer advantage. The powerline networking has so much less variability, so much less jitter & chaos than wifi, even very complex multi-drop wifi. I might get more throughput over wifi, but it comes with far far higher base latency, and will fall to shit multiple times a day. Powerline's reliability has been one of the best upgrades I've ever made.
I do personally agree that unstandardized batteries are a problem in wireless mice as eventually you'll be unlikely to find an exact replacement, but I think there can be plenty of wins from wireless. No cable drag (annoying!), no cable running across the desk (I can stow my mouse in a drawer in less than a second to clear my desktop), and I don't have to worry about the cable fraying over time (legitimately something that happened with my razer years ago!)
Let's be honest here, you clearly have never used a decent or good wireless mouse, and have little or no knowledge of the marketplace (and oddly have a lot of opinions about them...)
> Having to change batteries several times a year is objectively more expensive, wasteful, worse for the environment, and burdensome than never having to change batteries.
Rechargeable batteries (either built-in li-ion or nimh AAA/AA) exist. Before you start going on about the inconvenience of charging: when I see my mouse dock's LED ring glowing orange as opposed to a more greenish color, I know I've got a couple of hours before I should go through the incredibly arduous process of...placing it on the dock for a bit.
> Wired is ALWAYS the objectively superior option in all metrics except for superficial & subjective "aesthetics", all else equal.
Not having a cord is substantially nicer from a usability and feel standpoint, and not just for gaming.
> "Essentially no lag" is objectively not the same as "no lag".
Go look at rtings or any other site that reviews mice, and you'll see that just like wired mice, wireless mice can vary in latency, but there are plenty of mice (even non-gaming ones) with latency matching or so close to wired mice it's within the realm of measurement error and the difference could not possibly matter even in competitive gaming.
You have a lot of opinions about wireless mice for someone who clearly has never used one.
it actually travels faster through air (no vacuum necessary) than through fiber or copper as those transmit information at 2/3rd of the speed of light while air transmits it at 99% [1].
which is why starlink could in theory achieve better latency than a straight run of fiber optic across the world [2].
this of course doesn't mean that it's better in a mouse because of the overhead of processing such a short distance.
[1] https://archive.is/c859M [2] https://youtu.be/QEIUdMiColU?t=238
https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2016/11/priva...
could you provide more info? the source I gave you has a real-world example of a wireless link used over fiber to achieve better latency.
Parent has edited all their comments now making the rest of the comment tree less useful. Essentially they were arguing that wireless signals themselves couldn't be faster than a wired/optical signal despite physics disagreeing.
Wireless is awesome for when you're on the go, but if you're going to be sitting at a desk for hours anyway, wired is life.
But in the real world, there can be even more lag.
I've tested a bunch of different high-end wireless mice that purport to have super-low wireless lag, and they all exhibit lag in my apartment.
Not constant lag, but sporadic occasional lag of like 600ms or more, every once in a while. For both clicking the mouse, or just moving the cursor.
Because I've seen it on Mac, Windows, and Linux, and with fairly pricey mice from Logitech, Corsair, Razer, and others, I think the reason is probably radio interference. I live in a dense apartment block in Tokyo, and also have kids with a bunch of wireless crap of their own.
Whatever it is, the only way I can have a mouse that doesn't ever lag is to connect it with a cable. I don't even play games, but the every-once-in-a-while lag is annoying enough when coding and web browsing that I now only buy mice that support wireless USB, Bluetooth, and USB-C wired connection.
At least for me, using a stylus has proven to be much more comfortable, much faster and more precise than using any kind of mouse or any other pointing device.
Now I regret that I did not have the idea of replacing the mouse with a small graphic tablet many years earlier.
For short typing sequences I retain the pen between the thumb and the palm while touch typing and the switching between keyboard and pointer is faster than with a mouse or trackball.
Before typing a long text, I drop the pen on the tablet and I pick it up later, which takes about the same time as releasing then grabbing again a mouse or a trackball.
However, the pen is very light and I can retain it between the fingers without it limiting much the movements of the fingers. Because of that, if I have to type only a few words between some pointing actions I do not bother to drop the pen, but I touch type with the pen still between the fingers of my right hand. If I have to type more than one sentence, I drop the pen on the tablet and I pick it up again after finishing typing.
This actually makes on average the switching of the right hand between typing and pointing less distracting than with a mouse, because the heavier mouse must be released and grabbed after that, even when typing a single letter, which takes more time than moving the hand holding the pen between tablet and keyboard (especially now, after I have recently switched to a narrower ergonomic keyboard, without numeric pad, where the movement of the right hand is minimized).
The left mouse click is done by touching the tablet with the pen. The pen has 2 buttons for the thumb, which can be mapped to various events. I map one button to be the right mouse click and the other to be the double left mouse click.
I still have a mouse, so for quick stuff I tend to use that. but when I want to give my right hand a rest, or if I am doing precision stuff (ie copy pasting with small fonts, or drawing/CAD) then I use the table in absolute mode( that is the top right of the tablet is always top right of the screen)
Right now I’m using a Huion tablet, which does not appear to allow customizing the drag-to-disable-click distance. Is there any Mac utility that would work for this?
I have stopped using MacOS many years ago, so I do not know how this is done there, but on Linux I always increase the drag-and-drop threshold, because on high-resolution displays this can be a problem even with traditional mice, not only with tablets.
All hand discomfort has disappeared after switching to a tablet with pen and the fact that pointing with a pen is much faster and more accurate than with a mouse has been an unexpected bonus.
Have you tried a vertical mouse? That is the best for me: comfortable, yet mouse-y :)
This allows much faster transitions between typing and pointing than with a mouse.
I have not tried a vertical mouse, but I agree that it is likely to solve most of the comfort problems caused by a classic mouse.
Nevertheless, there is no chance for it to be as fast and accurate as a pen. With the pen I can point to any place on the screen pretty much instantaneously and using a negligible muscular force, due to its lightness.
It's not without problems, I personally don't like the pointer speed / acceleration, scrolling and zooming are way too sensitive, and palm rejection isn't too great (it pretty much just disables touch whenever the pen is near the surface). However, I have put exactly zero effort into customising the first two things, so these might be fixable, and for me the latter isn't a huge problem because I don't use the pen and the touchpad together a lot, so having a toggle button as mentioned before works just fine for me.
Obviously highly dependant on what you do. After being heavily screen only for most of my professional life, having the ability to print off a table sized drawing of an engineering diagram, review it, mark it up, and work with others in that process is really nice. It’s definitely more efficient in pure IO terms to work solely in the digital realm, but the forced interaction barriers help provide a little more room for rough thought before returning there for fine tuning.
After doing that for a while, I found Inkscape and Free mind/Freeplane to be pretty reasonable alternatives that are still digital.
Even in plain text mode I learned later that there are some practices that also help the big picture emerge faster, so the spacial effects aren't as necessary in many cases.
Still, it's fun sometimes to get out the supplies and work in that way...
My favorite unusual accessory is a little 9 key mechanical auxiliary keyboard. I programmed it to be my debug keyboard with all of key combos for my IDEs debugger - run, stop, pause, next, step over/into, set breakpoints, etc. it saves a lot of time (or seems like it does).
I moved down from a Logitech G19 to the current configuration. The ergonomics are much better with a smaller keyboard if your desk space is limited.
Agree it is difficult at first switching back to a "normal" keyboard.
This is my favourite hack and I do it too, but I'm never giving up on having 105 keys in ISO format.
I also have a Autohotkey script to replicate this when I use my laptop on the go. But I haven't managed to make it work when I need to hold other modifier keys at the same time, like shift or ctrl.
I have a 98” TV on the wall, with two 55 inch TVs in portrait orientation on each side, tilted 45 degrees toward me.
It turns out, the long dimension of the 55” screens equals the short dimension of a 98” screen. So all three screens have the same height.
Having huge screens on the wall means I don’t need my reading glasses, can demo easily, can look at my screen while walking around the room and thinking.
It keeps my desk clear of clutter, cables etc. Wireless keyboard, track pad, mouse & headphones.
Furniture is minimized with a small desk and no screen stands.
Clutter and crowding silently sap my productivity.
I use the two side screens to constantly show my todo’s & reminders, and messages that need responses, respectively. Otherwise for me, out of sight is out of mind.
The TVs are mounted low, only 18 inches from the floor, for a comfortable seated viewing angle. also this leaves room for motivational, decorative art over the screens.
16/8=1.777...
Only .2% off!
[1] https://www.amazon.com/OXENDURE-Webcam-Stand/dp/B07RNHZYGW (look for a cheaper vendor) [2] https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pas.webcam...
For commercial setups (or personal use where money is no object): https://wolfvision.com/en/products/vz-c6.
Most keyboards have a spacebar which is the size of 5 or more keys. It's more convenient if this very wide key gets replaced with Esc, Tab, Space, Backspace, Enter. (Which saves the pinky from having to reach for those keys).
For better or worse, keyboards which do follow this "no large spacebar" approach then tend to have other design improvements: e.g. the columns will be aligned, & not have the asymmetric row-stagger that normal keyboards have; or they'll be split keyboards (like ZSA's moonlander). -- Many will also opt to have fewer keys, so that layers can be leveraged to allow for a smaller keyboard.
Esc - Left Middle Finger
Tab - Left Ring Finger
Space - Either thumb, but usually right thumb
Backspace - Right ring finger
Enter - Right Pinky
I do use my left pinky for shift and caps lock though
With more thumb keys, it's much easier to have access to these keys with hands rested on home row.
Have a look for "Vintage knife switch" on ebay; here's a current offering (only double pole): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295179145552
Portable screen is light, size of the laptop and charges/sends data through one cable. Perfect!
Right now I'm at a co-working space and I have: - My MacBook on a stand to the left - My Asus ZenScreen to the right - The monitor the coworking space provides at some desks (If you get there in time before it's taken, lol) in the middle
Pretty great setup to know I'll have 3 screens and barely need to pack anything when I come in.
Choosing one it's a bit confusing, Asus offers many models, and hard to understand the difference. There are some which have separate display port and power. Different covers. With a battery etc. I really wanted just one having only one cable.
On Amazon there are some other less/not known brands, offering bigger screens, but I felt more convinced by the mainstream brand.
Remember that your laptop has to support this. I tested it with an older MacBook Pro, and Lenovo ThinkPad. On my old Ideapad I don't have such port.
Easiest way to get it working is with a dummy plug (because it just casts displays, it can't create one), but maybe there's more options on Linux to fake a display in software.
I don't do dedicated co-working spaces, but when desk-space and etiquette allow, I use it as a replacement for my 14inch FHD work laptop screen, rather than a second screen. I use it with a portable keyboard and mouse and just stand it on the folded laptop.
When I'm in a normal cafe or pub I just use the small laptop and mouse, no external keyboard or monitor.
I have tried a number of trackballs, and haven't been able to reach the precision of a regular mouse from any — after a week of usage of each of several trackballs I only got to the convenience/precision of trackpoint or bad touchpad.
Moving in straight lines, predictable directions and moving just a few pixels was the biggest issue.
I also have the Lift vertical, for use when travelling, but it's not nearly as nice as the MX.
edit: also the Ergo keyboard is fantastic. I can't overstate how using ergonomic keyboard/mouse is important; you're using them basically all day.
As long as you are not using the mouse to draw (photoshop, gis software, cad software etc...) you will adapt. And the thingy is comfortable to use.
If you need to do some of those tasks that requires drawing a polygon, snap vertex into other things etc... The MX Ergo is not for you. You can do it, but you will be significantly more slow, even after months of practice. Look something else. I wish someone would have told me this before.
It's next to my computer, and I use it for notifications and smaller dashboards: https://github.com/tidbyt/community
The second option would be any cheapo Android tablet + Kiosk browser. It lets you have any web page visible and the screen turns on at voice/motion.
Or a more ready-made option would be an Elgato Stream Deck. You can customise the buttons pretty well.
If you want it to be wireless you can build it around an ESP32 module or similar.
I have the speaker called Timebox Evo with a 16x16 display. They used to be around $35 or so, i think now they cost $50. Its sound quality is mediocre at best but the display is nice, the app is pretty slick and the builtin battery lasts long. The build quality is also good.
product homepage:
https://divoom.com/en-de/collections/smart-pixel-speaker/pro...
github: (unofficial)
On both I have layers for a built-in Numpad, mouse keys (for controlling the mouse cursor without taking my hand off the keyboard), shortcuts for working with text (selecting an entire line, copying and pasting, etc) and various other finger- and wrist-saving shortcuts that help me ward off the likelihood of RSI.
I had a wrist injury in the past and it had a big impact on my productivity as a tech worker so using these small compact keyboards is a real godsend.
Everything I need is literally just one key away from another--no more stretching or contorting my hands and fingers to do CTRL+ALT+DELETE or CTRL+SHIFT+F5 for example.
The 40% keyboard can be used as a daily driver but the ortholinear keyboard is my go-to since it's perfect for both work and play.
I also have a cheap X-Pen graphics tablet that I use for ‘white boarding’ on zoom calls.
Almost forgot I also have a usb wireless numpad that I pair with a usb hid remapped on a pi zero to make hot keys for frequent actions.
When I travel I wind up working in all sorts of odd setups. No need to find a flat place to move a mouse. It works in tight places and uneven surfaces such as a couch.
I also have a cheap graphics tables, a Huion, for some digital painting or to help with creating software architecture diagrams.
If you're on Linux, Gromit-MPX is a great companion app to annotate anything on your desktop. https://github.com/bk138/gromit-mpx
Particularly useful for twitch based FPS shooters such as Counter Strike, but overall ensures never to get the cable in your way.
PS: You don't use wireless for competitive shooters. LAN Cable, cable mouse, etc.
See: https://www.amazon.com/Glorious-PC-Gaming-Race-Bungee/dp/B07...
Logitech X Pro Superlight seems pretty popular and sadly doesn’t work via cable but only Logitechs lightning receiver.
I’ve played with the Superlight for a year or so and and couldn’t notice the difference to the mouse is used before and am using now, both with a cable.
But I told myself if I can't improve on the pens with some kind of wire mock-up (the idea being to tuck the bottom under my desk mat for security) I'll spring for the real thing. It's a really nice effect.
BTW, I don't use a mouse bungie. The cable hangs from behind the monitor screen.
In CS:GO tournaments basically everyone uses wireless now. Logitech G PRO X Superlight is amazing. Never used a lighter mouse and will never go back to wired.
https://liquipedia.net/counterstrike/List_of_player_mouse_se...
---
UPS that can run my PC, monitors, USB hub for 10-30 minutes. I rarely have power outages, but when I do have one it's a non-event
Cheap boom arm for the webcam.
Stream Deck makes it was to quickly control audio and lights and aps
Tourbox makes it easy to edit video
Elgato Keylight Airs for video calls
Neumi powered speakers.
Corsair K100 keyboard. I love the feel and being able to disabled the capslock key
Logitech MX Vertical mouse. I hate using any other mouse at this point
Syba Sonic USB DAC. Better audio to the headphones plus a big volume knob
Jabra Evolve2 30 wired headset. They are comfortable and I don't need to charge them. Since they are USB-C, I can plug them into my phone for longer calls.
Audio-Technica ATH M50 headphones. When I want to listen or work on video.
Under the desk headphone mount. The convenience of being able to quickly grab either headset without having to look away
Desktop mat from drop.com. It looks better and it's another layer of padding for your hand.
ErgoFoam Adjustable Foot Rest. It makes my feet happy
Steelcase Leap chair. Spend the money on a good chair. Your back will thank you
STEALTHO Office Chair Caster Wheels Set. Replace the wheels of your office chair with polyurethane wheels and skateboard quality bearings.
Amazon Echo Show 5. It's a desktop clock and a display for the doorbell camera.
I was kinda amazed when I plugged in the UPS to my M1 Mac Mini with USB and macOS just detected it without any software. It just shows up as a battery just like on a laptop with all the same options.
I also have an UPS under the desk, keeping up the wifi hub in all circumstances; it has a couple of USB charging ports on the front, so I use those with most random things that need charging. For some things I recently started using elbow USB-C connectors, or ones that can bend either way, to tidy up some corners and reduce strain on connectors.
The rest is about ergonomics - screen at the right level, good chair (Aeron, although tbh I miss my previous Mirrah) to avoid back pain, good split keyboard (Kinesis, although I wish i could afford an ergodox) to take away wrist pain (massive difference), that sort of thing.
I use a logitech brio 4k webcam (only 4k at certain resolutions) with a JLAB Talk Pro Omnidirectional microphone.
I also started recording programming tutorial videos to justify the cost of the microphone
The advantage of using a DSLR with a nice big lens is that you can open the aperture up wide, and you'll be the only thing in focus.
https://shkspr.mobi/blog/2022/01/review-usb-foot-pedals-fs3_...
I joke that I have them programmed for select all, copy, and paste. But, really, it is for microphone mute, camera toggle, and boss key.
Takes up a small amount of under desk space, but worth it.
I think Wolfenstein had one.
I think I'd be quickly frustrated though because even on a 16" MBP, using an IDE like Xcode or Android Studio the screen gets jam-packed so easily with all the panes and inspectors and such. That screen size is probably like a football field to the vim/emacs types though.
I do webdev in Vim. It is nice to have the browser on one side and the editor on the other. With a pretty standard 1080p 24" monitor, that is just barely doable with a comfy font size. My coworkers often write very longgg lines of code :/
I removed armrests because my wrists are resting at the side of the touchpad. I never touched the armrest unless I was standing up or sitting down.
These days I have a 14 inch macbook, which I put on top of a few books and control with a keyboard + magic trackpad. Can't say it's made me any more or less productive.
The biggest improvement i've made was acquiring a desk treadmill, hasn't affected my productivity but now I'm getting 10-20k steps a day without really thinking much about it.
Similarly I resent the loss of 16:10 or taller monitors — I want those extra few lines of context.
Now, there was a time long long ago when I could work with a single 80x24 screen. But then I had a huge L-shaped desk with one printed listing for the current primary code file, one for its interfaces (header file), one for its unit tests (who am I kidding), one for documentation.
It perches up on top of my monitor (taking up no desk real estate which was my original goal), runs on USB, and puts off a pleasant light.
My inputs:
- laptop with external Behringer audio interface with optical output,
- bluetooth receiver/transmitter with optical output
- PS4 (through toslink output)
My outputs:
- DAC (with optical input) into headphone amplifier into headphones
- "large" amplifier (with optical input) for my bookshelf speakers,
- bluetooth receiver/transmitter with optical input
The bluetooth receiver/transmitter is a funny device that can perform one of two roles and has separate remote to toggle. It is connected to the switch twice, once for output, once for input. I use this to send signal to up to two pairs of bluetooth headphones (for example for watching movies on external monitor). I also use this to capture output from my phone or laptop when the laptop is not connected to the docking stotion.
What all this does is it allows me to send any listed input to any listed output, except bluetooth into bluetooth -- that device can only operate in one selected mode. For example I may play PS4 on my speakers and with one button press send it to my bluetooth headphones or my wired headphones. Or I can use my bookshelf speakers with my laptop on my lap. Everything without connecting any cables at all -- just up to three presses on two remotes.
I had non-optical solution before but this caused a lot of interference. Rather than try to debug and fix this I decided to just not have any copper between devices. Optical cables fixed it all for me.
I have simultaneous inputs from my old analog consoles hooked up to a CRT, my OLED TV's analog out (meaning that automatically gets audio from whatever HDMI source), my turntable, and my computer.
The only switching I have is for the output: to my home theater speakers (2.1) or to headphones.
Interestingly I cant seem to find any youtube videos if someone using one.
I'm naturally right-handed, but learnt to use a mouse/trackball with my left hand ages ago when I figured out the twisting/ergonomic issues with a right-handed mouse and a keyboard with a numeric keypad. I was previously prone to hurting my right-shoulder blade (pulled muscle?) as there's a constant twist compared to the mid-line of the keyboard.
* Standing desk. I work and play on my computer, so I try to spend at least half the working day in a standing position. It's an electric one, ime switching being effortless is very important for actual usage.
* Wired headset. If I'm on a call (work or TTRPG), I plug it in. Otherwise it's lying on the side. I hate charging so much, I even have my wireless mouse permanently connected via USB.
* Sound card. A Creative Soundblaster ZX. Probably not needed anymore, but my last laptop (2006ish) had a soundcard in that pci slot thing, and I bought one for my first Desktop afterwards and stinky kept it. I do like the Soundblaster software and it's not as if I need the pcie X1 slot it takes up for anything else.
* Document scanner. Scan all paper documents I might need again and store them in paperless ngx (the scanner software scans to a smb share on my home server that paperless consumes)
- GV-USB2/Elgato HD60S to capture C64/Amiga1200/Raspberry 4 on Windows my desktop and/or display them on monitors.
- Many screens in a compact area (all 4:3/5:4, matte and low res): http://move.rupy.se/file/station.jpg
- 40% keyboard for that Raspberry 4 so it fits in front of my HHKB JP: http://move.rupy.se/file/last_computer.png
- Recently started using my old "Tab A" tablet with bluetooth Thinkpad keyboard and mouse, much lighter than a laptop, just wish I could install vanilla linux on it.
- UrbanEars Plattan 2 bluetooth (about 10+ of them) because it has wired and bluetooth. (sold out now unfortunately)
- Røde USB mic.
My github username on the HN profile on twitch.
- It's smaller.
- I can read them without expensive advanced rendering = standard bios/boot/terminal bitmap fonts are large enough.
- It looks better imo.
- It probably lasts longer.
And probably more that I forget now...
The display in my setup: https://www.flickr.com/photos/blakespot/52345176302/in/album...
If you ever have multiple hour long builds and/or test suites running, this is is a big help.
> time $* && fin || die
I don't know zsh, but this doesn't look escaped properly to me? Bash has so many footguns.
What does the bloom filter do? Is it sort of like a hash to try to make each process show up on a different LED on the display?
That means I can tell exactly which processes are in which status.
Wireless noise cancelling headphones helped with concentration.
UPS saved me a couple times from losing work during power outages.
I haven't used a second monitor since, and don't need to wear glasses at the computer anymore since the setup is a few inches closer to the face.
* whiteboard placed on a painting easel next to my desk (when I don't use whiteboard, I can use the easel it to paint acrylic) - about 90x120 cm. I put my tasks for work, but also pick exercises with checkbox to do during the day.
* AKAI mpk mini - when tired of work, can jump over to Ableton like software and relax
* MX Master 3S - ordered kind of accidentally, stayed as solid replacement of previously used Apple Trackpad.
* cutting board as mouse mat: https://www.olfa.net.pl/products/Mata-do-ciecia-CM-A4-RC.htm... If I need to cut something, it's there. As a downside - it might be wearing off my mouse quicker.
* wifi/assistant controlled light bulb behind the monitor. Easily to regulate light around my screen - bright when needed, switched to blue in the evening.
* Varier Variable Balans (bought 2nd hand for 20% of original price) - works nicely with electric-standing desk from Ikea.
ReMarkable2 e-ink tablet -- okay, it's a standalone device, but interfaces to the computer in cool ways (like screen sharing), and it's changed my life as far as note-taking goes
Things like BuJo don't appeal to me, because it strips the practical nature of handwritten notes away in favour of making something more akin to art, and thus people become precious about their aesthetics rather than quality of note taking and ability to use their notes. Sorry, bit of rant, been trying to nail notes for a long time, but my conclusion is different tools for different tasks. Trying to compile it all in one place is a nice idea, but perhaps unrealistic for a lot of fields.
It syncs to Google Cloud
Any particular recommendations with Linux support?
You might be interested in the Supernote, though - it's a similar device to the Remarkable, but it comes with a hard-nib pen and has a slightly soft surface on the screen, which gives it more of a pen-on-paper feel.
I use both a Quest 2 (running Immersed on Linux) and a Valve Index (running Virtual Desktop on Windows).
However, I can't recommend any current option specifically as a monitor replacement when traveling. https://simulavr.com/ will be interesting, when it eventually becomes available.
An upside-down metal drink tumbler, with an anti-static wrist strap around it, and clamped to the chassis of the computer. In the colder months, I touch it before touching parts of the computer, or my metal keyboard (which is not great for static). Before that, I hung up my system several times from static shocks on USB stuff.
A pile of random stuff with the right dimensions to put my webcam on in front of my monitor, so it looks like I'm actually looking at the person talking. This one doesn't work so well.
It felt amazing, just a bliss to use everyday. Sturdy, it was abused everyday yet showed no sign of any damage. It just works - it does not move from its place, felt rock solid, yet very thin. It always looks clean; they say that there are microscopic ridges designed to trap dirt etc, so it stays clean, yet cleanable.
Small things - but everything adds up, making it the superior mousepad.
I have yet to find a mousepad capable of all those.
Sadly lost it when I moved abroad.
Your comment made me remember this - so I looked around. Turned out now there's 3M Precise mouse pad - however, there are quite some negative comments. Too bad.
Tried to look for that old 3M mousepad instead - no luck so far. Sigh.
Currently using a hard metallic mousepad, it's almost as good, except that it looks dirty rather quickly.
https://www.ulanzi.com/collections/desk-set-up/products/viji...
all easily obtainable at a generic hardware store and requiring only a hand drill
I only recently tested this out on a mac and was sad to see that shift/ctl/buckey on one keyboard didn't affect keys on the other keyboard. Probably not worth opening a bug with them.
These days I use an old M4-1 keyboard (first gen thinkpad keyboard / trackpoint in a standalone keyboard) because I just don't type as much as I used to and I value the desk space.
As you can see at the referenced URL, the Multi Mic has other capabilities as well. I’ve used it to hear speakers at conferences, college classes, and other talks given by speakers who were at a distance from me. And, I’ve used it to pick up the signal sent by venues’ audio loops at other speaking events.
The only feature it has that I haven’t used is its “conference table mic” - ReSound says I should be able to lay it flat on a table I’m sitting at with others and it’ll automatically zero in on one speaker or another when they talk and send that person’s voice to my hearing aids. I gotta’ test that feature out one of these days soon because that sounds amazing.
I never got the Griffin PowerMate or the Leap motion or the new LED button boards aimed at streamers.
Just AutoHotkey survives. And it’s sad, computers could be so much more but I guess I don’t have much use for anything else.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DataHand
Still working on my steno (with a StenoMod). It's taken some time, but I'm finally at the point where I can derive more satisfaction from success than my aggravation due to lack of speed.
[0] https://asetniop.com/ [1] https://github.com/kbjunky/Chordie
I can't stand the size of normal mouse pads and I can't go without one because the years wear on my desk. Plus it also serves as coaster, art, and "clean zone" that my cats know to avoid. You can get them custom printed with anything you want.
https://9to5mac.com/2022/04/21/flush-sd-card-macbook-pro-tra...
For this reason I bought a 4k HDMI splitter that extracts from a HDMI signal the different video and audio channels if needed. So I connect my MacBook pro to this splitter through hdmi and run another hdmi between this and the monitor. The spdif goes to the receiver that drives my speakers.
What's cool is that the video still is at 4k@60hz and I could still get audio through my monitor if I turned on its internal speakers. It has been working flawlessly for me for years and I've only spent about 30 bucks to buy it.
Here is a link to the product if anyone wants to take a look https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BHYXVTY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_...
I've also tried this weird mouse replacement: https://www.marzhauser.com/en/products/operating-devices/erg...
It's basically the controls of microscope with a USB cable. So that people who are used to working with a microscope can continue to work the same way.
These are the only 2 lesser-known accessories, I used. Not sure why everyone needs to talk about mice and usb hubs here
https://3dconnexion.com/manuals/spacemouse-wireless/en/Manua...
But yeah pricing is based on value not cost I guess. People who need it (architects, 3d designers, mechanical engineers) often have high end workstations so price of the mouse is a rounding error (and like 1 hour of their salary?)
The Bluetooth transmitter is used with sony WH-1000XM3 using the aptx standard and latency this way is good enough for gaming (I know what bad Bluetooth latency is like, and this setup does not have it)
The fact that pc and laptop output to audio jack and don't know I use wireless headphones (or which input or output I use at all) is a feature, not a bug, since I actually don't want the headphones to be able to change state of music players or volume on the pc as it's buggy and annoying if it does that.
The only thing the big knob passive lacks imho is an ability to mix both input sources together passively.
That combined with a USB-C dock and another monitor on an arm. I can quickly dock laptop and keep all my desk space.
Apple magic trackpad.
Savant Elite2 Triple Foot pedal. Left Click, Right Click, ESC.. currently. Still playing with them.
IPEVO DO-CAM USB document camera, doubles as my face camera, but I do a lot of 'whiteboard' sketches on paper which I later translate to lucid if it needs to be kept.
How do you find it?
Have you used the older models to give a comparison?
The only issue I've had with it is that sometimes my laptop doesn't receive any input so I have to unplug the keyboard and plug it back in. This could just be due to my setup and unrelated to the keyboard, but I didn't have that issue before.
The magnetic snap-on wrist pads are really nice. They snap perfectly into place and haven't moved unless I want them to. The keyboard overall feels solid and ergonomic
+ Variable split is very nice.
+ Higher tenting degrees than the 20 degrees of the KA2.
+ Great firmware (ZMK) out of the box.
+ Really good build quality.
+ User-replaceable battery.
- The Gateron Brown switches are mediocre. They are not to spec and the actuation points are closer to 3mm than 2mm. This makes it much harder to type without bottoming out and doesn't permit the lighter touch you can use with the Browns or Silent Reds in the KA2.
- The two halves always connect through Bluetooth, but sometimes the right half cannot find the left half, especially after flashing. You usually have to power cycle both halves several times to get them to connect again.
- The Pro (in contrast to the non-Pro 360) comes with mediocre ABS keycaps. I replaced them by a Kinesis PBT blank set, but this adds another $50 or so to the already steep price.
- The optional palm rests are too high.
- Cannot be used on your lap.
The keyboard I still love the most is the Kinesis Advantage2 with a KinT controller (for QMK). If the split distance and tenting degree of the KA2 are acceptable, I'd recommend people to buy the KA2. If you do get a 360, I'd recommend you to go through Upgradekeyboards.com and get it with a different switch type.
I also replaced the keycaps with the pbt ones, but i also moved a homerow from an adv1 onto my 360pro.
It's a bit sad that they switched from Cherry to budget Gateron switches (on a 600 Euro keyboard). The Cherry Browns and Silent Reds may have been a bit scratchy, but at least they are always close to spec and not that bad after some break-in. Either that or one of the literally tens of tactile switches that are better than Gateron Browns, e.g. why not put some Boba U4 or U4Ts in a premium keyboard? Sure, these switches are some smaller runs, but I am sure they could have worked something out, Kinesis got Cherry to invent Browns after all.
The 360 is quite nice with a few caveats.
1) the split is excellent, the extra buttons are great.
2) the backlight is kinda pointless, I have it off, why waste the battery. I don't understand why they didn't put it in the non-pro... BOM price i'd guess.
3) I got the palm rests, they are comfortable and kinda a little leatherette material so they won't get gooped up as badly as the old advantage 2 cloth pads.
4) the keycaps that come with it are SHIT. Buy the PBT caps with it, or do like i did and buy them two days after you get your keyboard.. Even the the home row is shit if you are used the adv1/2. I took the homerow off of one of my original advantages and put it on the pro. You might be able to swap all the caps over, but there are a few extra keys on the 360 series that it won't cover, and some of the legends will be wrong.
5) The adjustable tenting is nice but somewhat limited, it has essentially three settings.
6) It certainly sounds better, not the hollow of the adv1/2 (which i stuffed with foam to suppress).
7) You might want to buy from upgrade keyboards unless you are ok with browns. I haven't opened it up to see how hard it would be to do a desolder/switch swap. Brown are ok for me, but I do enjoy my adv2 with silent reds.
[1]: https://github.com/davidphilipbarr/Sweep
[2]: https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/wiki/resources
The one-wire port exposes itself as lots of files in /sys/devices/w1_bus_master1/ that you can read that contain the temperature measurements.
- Three 2K screens - 23 to 25" (2560x1440). 3 of these have more usable pixels than a 4K. I have used 3 monitors so long that breaking work into screen 1/2/3 becomes a quick and helpful thing. I don't always use the third but have told people if I'm having a 3 monitor day, to keep on sliding by.
- MIC: I am heard better by sounding the clearest. I recently bought the best wired mic headset I could find. Steelseries Tusq for $50. Voice quality has been through the roof and close to the best, to the point that almost every call someone is asking me what I'm using. Won't cancel noise, but good otherwise.
- SOUND DAC: Soundblaster G3 - Makes good sound even better. Optionally adds the ability to output to both headphones and speakers. Handier than I thought it would be. Also allows cleaning up your voice with a pre-set and outputting it through a "Creative Microphone". Works great. I had my eyes on a nicer one but don't see myself getting rid of this.
- WEBCAM: Logitech Brio 4K - Clearest low maintenance 4k image wins. Lots of other options emerging, but this one whether I'm sitting in the dark, monitor bias lights or have my overhead light on adjusts quickly enough. I like that it has it's own onboard electronics to do image smoothing or it's other features so zoom doesn't clog.. It's mic isn't bad as well in a pinch.
- AC Infinity Cabinet Fans - Quiet fans placed underneath any Apple or other laptops that are unable to manage their thermal selves. One is up at an angle and draws air away, and the other blows across. I like it enough that I would cut a hole out in my desk with the fans inserted and let the air blow down. Can be dremeled and put into ikea lapdesk laptop holders. Especially helpful for i9 laptops. Quiet.
- Heated desk mat. Use on floor as well if the floor is cold, or get a dedicated one for that.
Edit: added a few more.
- iPad Mini with Cellular. I avoided an iPad for a long, long time, and now exclusively as my communicator to dial into meetings. It reduced my phone and laptop usage significantly in some cases. Rarely run into video issues with lag, slow downs, and can present with a whiteboard if needed. Can take a minute to unplug, and walk away with the meeting at anytime into a car. Cellular is handy in a pinch if the personal hotspot isn't going to the phone. Big enough to see the screen and presentations, mic/camera/speakers are well tuned, good battery life.
I use the Logitech MX Ergo as my go-to mouse. Once adapted to the thumb trackball, it's really comfortable. As an added benefit, you need very little space on your desk and no mouse pad because it's stationary.
If you keep this up though, your wrists, neck, and back will make you pay for it in a few years.
The other thing are the lights that light up the walls behind my screens. I don't have a window there so it's easier on the eyes when the lights are on while I'm at my PC. They are controlled by a wi-fi power socket running Tasmota. On my NAS I got Node-RED running which pings my PC. I have an "automatic" setting for my lights so they are on if the PC is on, or when it's dark and before midnight. The "dark" part is currently determined by the time when the sun starts to set, but I'm planning on using a light sensor I already have somewhere else in my apartment instead. And I still need a better trigger that turns it off for the night - I think the humidity data from my bathroom might be the one, since the last thing I do before going to bed is showering.
My one nit to pick is that they don’t have multiple connections, so for convenience, I just have two at my desk, one that stays connected to my personal system, and one that connects to the work laptop.
A review by Linus of Linus Tech Tips from 2012:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-D...
How do you make use of two keyboards?
- The noname HDMI cables I had was not the right version, bought 3 new ones.
- The old Apple dongle doesn't support 60hz, luckily I had a newer one which did, worked well on my newer Macbook Pro, but..
- ..Macbook Pro 2016 doesn't support 60hz through the dongles with HDMI, so I've got to move to DisplayPort.
- Now my NEW Macbook Pro doesn't work at all with DP. Macbook issue, as my other 3 Macbooks (on the same macOS) works fine.
So now I am using the KVM switcher for everything except the screen, which I have to manually change the input for, until I can reinstall macOS to see if that solves it (I have spent hours with Apple support).
Overall if you use multiple laptops the KVM is awesome, and the foot pedal is doubly so!
The first one I used was this https://www.lazada.co.th/products/2x1-usb-2-hdmi-kvm-hdmi-4k... worked well with the restrictions.
The one I currently use is this one https://www.lazada.co.th/products/i2897492493-s10589620581.h...
I highly recommend buying one with an extended switch (or even a wireless one), even if you don't want to use it as a food pedal, being able to place it anywhere is optimal since otherwise you need all cables and the switch within arms reach, and this makes takes space and looks messy (as was the case with the first one I used).
I can type on calls without my mic picking it up, it has a custom layout saved on device so I don't need to do any configuration for any device I connect it to and it works fine on Windows, MacOS and iOS devices.
I use a JP version but with US keys on it and a US key layout which gives me a bunch of extra keys to configure. If anyone is wondering, there is a spare key on the home row to the right of the ' key which I use as backspace/del.
It wasn't cheap, but if it broke I would replace it with the same model in a heartbeat. I do have a spare but it's the standard US layout with the big spacebar.
If anyone is interested, I would check out not only the new HHBKB, but mechanical keyboards also, the ones you build or have someone build. The amount of programming and customization you can do on them is insane.
I moved from HHKB to a 40%, for two reasons: 1) the mouse is incredibly close to the keyboard. It is close with the HHKB, but you can save even more time with a 40%. 2) You can literally reach every single key without moving your hands at all.
I now have three or four of them, one permanently at each computer and at my work desk.
I use home, end, page up/down etc but I use them without having to move my hands from the home row. This is the major advantage, I can reach every key on the keyboard without moving my hands.
I'd still be using that keyboard now if the switches felt better. After ten years of heavy use as a programmer, they've either become stiffer, or I've become less tolerant (probably both) of the keys.
I'm on a simple Drop ALT now with key switches that remind me of the original Topre keys of the HHKB, but much smoother. I can't recall what they are exactly. No complaints after three years of use.
For me, I hope it would also help me quiet my legs a little bit and keep me in an upright posture, avoiding me crossing my legs for instance.
Especially handy in gaming to have keys mapped to thinks like Heal
I don't have to remember obscure keyboard shortcuts, the functions switch automatically as I change apps and the scroll wheel (the main reason I bought it) is so nice. I can't use a mouse at all without pain so I use a pen tablet for the most part, this has brought back the smooth scrolling, zooming and other things you'd use a mouse wheel for back into my life.
- Behringer XR18 digital mixer, mounted under my desk
- DIY wooden stand for a small MIDI controller keyboard & an integrated XLR socket for a conference microphone (used for meetings)
- the MIDI controller is connected directly to the XR18 so I have convenient faders and knobs for mic volume, mute, master volume and other stuff connected to the mixer (piano, edrums etc)
- DIY shelf to have my displays & speakers at a comfortable height and distance
- dishpan under the desk for the occasional footbath
Not at all uncommon but still highly recommended: vertical mouse (cheap one), split keyboard (r-go), docking station (old thinkpad ultra dock)
Things I still want but never got around to:
- my desk lamp (cheap wifi bulb) is cold/warm white fadeable but I want that to happen automatically throughout the day based on sunset
- a better drawing tablet so I can ditch my whiteboard (current one sucks)
I have a much cheaper version of those costly wired earphone studio monitor that musicians used on stage/studio -- the one where the wire goes around the ear and hidden behind. I sometimes combine that with a wired Lavalier Mic. Both of which are tucked and hidden under my table for quick and easy access. I have very clear audio and people on the other end have told me that I'm very clear too. Very discrete while audio being clear on both ends. I want to set up something similar but less messy for travels.
However, in most common day-to-day meetings (teams, quick calls), I default to an XLR pointed from above the display.
You're talking about IEMs (in-ear monitors)
* Significant QoL gain: take a trip to the dollar store to buy three short CD racks; if you lay them on their sides next to each other, you can mount your laptops and mobile devices vertically!
Much nicer than stacking your devices screen to screen, and you can keep them charged and connect them as-needed.
* Ergo Anti-pattern: I built a 35 inch deep desktop out of 2x4's, perched it on top of ikea motorized risers, all above a "LifeSpan" brand desk treadmill scrounged from Craigslist because I thought Torvalds's setup was cool (circa mid-quarantine).
This year I built a wooden frame with hatch doors above the treadmill and keep my goofy gaming chair forever parked on top of them.
It has in it a power distribution board, access point, switch, various wall warts for things on the desk, and a mini pc. All housed in a beech veneer dining table.
I had to raise it off the floor a couple of inches to get my legs under it — folks back then really must have been smaller — and I would 100% convert a vintage dining table into a computer desk if I needed to, in the future. It’s so much more meaningful to have a dedicated place to work in the house with all the techno crap hidden out of of sight. I eschew my laptop and really enjoy having this one special place for computer stuff.
The desk surface is a single sheet of 4'x2' plywood, with solid wood edging strips glued to it. The pocket was cut with a hand router, positioned using wooden fences clamped to the plywood. The surface finish of the inside of the pocket is kind of rough, but it's not visible through the mousepad. The whole thing is varnished, and screwed to a steel desk frame I got for free from a local school that was disposing of old furniture.
Kdeconnect, scrcpy (software): notifications, reply to messages, automute on calls... what MS and apple copied.
Keyboard with QMK or kmonad(software) or other software: e.g. caps works as both ctrl and caps. Easier umlauts. Multimedia keys, shortcuts etc on compact keyboards.
Screenbar: convenient lighting.
Droidcam, camo (software) or hdmi capture cards: again sherlocked, but the original software gives you much more control.
Wacom tablet or sidecar-like: since apple and samsung sherlocked the idea, the original apps dried out a bit. Use a tablet as a wacom contiq. Preferably wired.
Audio interface: use professional mic, headphones with your pc. Also eguitar.
But mainly I use it to play an audio waveform of any music that's playing. And highlight caps lock whenever it's on.
A metal padded mouse with a “speed” mouse pad. It is so sensitive and easy to move that I can’t go back to a regular one anymore. Also it has rests for a thumb an a pinky. Shaped like this:
_/—\_
I believe that mine is A4Tech T70 or a very similar. The software allows for linear movement which I also like much more than default acceleration-based.I clipped the cord to the edge of the table, so it lies like S on the mouse pad and doesn’t scratch itself nor makes a sound.
Display:
Also I have a monitor arm - it frees so much space on the table and allows for easy monitor movement when I need to clear the table and draw on paper.
{PC; Work laptop; …} → HDMI switcher → HDMI digital sound extractor → {S/PDIF DAC → Speakers; Monitor}
The HDMI switcher is actually just for A/V; I use Barrier for the keyboard and the mouse (well actually not mouse, but a trackball).Though now that I think of it, I wonder if I could cobble something together with CEC to pass keyboard and mouse inputs through HDMI. In theory, that should be possible by attaching a ESP32 or something like that to the CEC pin on the monitor side…?
HDMI switch. Switch monitor between machines.
USB switch. Switch peripherals between machines.
Used to use an arduino with a rangefinder and led matrix to notify when coworkers would be behind me. Always had headphones on and usually would get hit with a jump scare from them tapping me or waving hands in front of my face. Also, had a coworker who routinely interrupted throughout the day just to gab and at times I wouldn't take my headphones off. A bit of a cold shoulder but they were excessive with the interruptions
https://www.microsoft.com/buxtoncollection/detail.aspx?id=19
From what I remember, it didn't work too well. Or it wasn't worth the gorilla arm. I was only using it for clerical work and maybe some gaming.
I also use a homebrew macro keyboard. It's a 16 key keyboard with nice, clicky keys and two analog knobs. It's very convenient.
Also a Hemmi slide rule. It mostly just sits there to make me think about what accuracy is actually relevant in calculations -- e.g. with what I know about the system, is the answer really 0.6012, or is it really about 0.6 and that's all I know?
It also gave me back a hardware mute button, which I missed from prior USB headsets.
I have a preference for just USB wired hardware. A number of laptops and sound card addons have some whack spatial audio stuff they do in their chipsets that you have to go trawling through forums to find out how to disable. Since the USB devices bring their own hardware, they get past this a bit.
Petmoj is Swedish slang for a rotary dial.
Output is to the CD inputs on a Sony mini audio system I bought on my way through Singapore in 1989.
I'd love to send the main to the speakers and headphones on the headphones, but then I have to control the speakers on the mains independently.
How do you have your outputs wired?
All inputs have MUTE ALT 3-4 selected. ALT 3-4 is selected for Control Room Source. Assign to Main Mix is selected. Ctl Room/Submix level is at the Unity detent. Main Out L/R send the final mix to the amplifier inputs. Headphones in Phones.
This keeps the headphones working independent of the Main Mix level setting.
Did I have to stare at page 26 of the manual for about an hour to figure this out? Well, yes. :-(
[1] https://shkspr.mobi/blog/2022/01/review-usb-foot-pedals-fs3_...
Ended up not exploring Synergy any further because Barrier worked awesome
- Using an Onyx Boox Max Lumi 13.3 eInk display as external laptop monitor to work outside.
Too much ghosting.
If you work in a dedicated room and don't need the isolation that headphones provide.
More comfortable than any headphones, excelent voice in and out, buttons with lights for volume and mute control, wired for good quality and latency, can also work wireless for phone. Works with Linux, no drivers needed for any functionality.
https://ergo.human.cornell.edu/DEA6510/dea6512k/ergo12tips.h...
Pretty basic but it's cheap and easy, works with Hangouts and Zoom, etc. The ability to know if I'm muted and rapidly mute/unmute without needing to focus the Zoom window is clutch.
Had the software for a few years now and it’s used very frequently. I don’t know if using the app hardwired requires a subscription though as mine was a one-off purchase via App Store.
I also have an m.2 SSD on a USB3 dongle which I've used as a Raspberry Pi boot drive.
One ridiculous thing I have is an old griffin usb volume knob that glows/throbs. It’s really amusing for some reason.
Game changer for posture. I'm looking directly ahead!
Contrary to other wrist rests, this one is tied to your wrist using a magnetic clasp.
I'm aging, or perhaps I just gamed too much using cheap peripherals. Either way, my wrist hurt a lot when using the PC and this helped me a lot.
Row 1: Delete, Archive, Mark Unread and Advance
Row 2: Undo, Next, Previous
It’s simple and I know the shortcuts for all of this, but it’s honestly drastically reduced the time spent triaging my email.I used to have a job which involved a ton of calls - both telephone and virtual meetings. This device let me easily switch my one headset between the two.
Plus, I get enough distance to wander around the room. I'll eventually upgrade to bluetooth.
integrated laptop/phone DACs driving headphones sound like garbage now
Mine also has a headphone jack and independent analog volume controls for speakers and headphones. It's amazingly nice to not worry about the operating system switching audio devices properly on headphone connect/disconnect.
They're just input - do whatever you want with them.
Supports both a desktop USB-B and a USB-C laptop with PD, with auto switch
Has built-in camera
Cheap gaming microphones, like my HyperX Solocast, is massive change from those. It's probably the best bang for the buck of all other accessories that I bought so far.
::: NOISE-CANCELLING USB MIC DONGLE ::: sometimes my work environment can be very noisy and nothing I can do about it. In those cases I plug my mic into Asus Noise Canceling adapter - and instantly all the noises are gone: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Noise-Canceling-Artificial-Intel...
At $35, it's an absolute steal.
Unfortunately it only accepts 3.5 mm jack as input - so no joy for the USB mics.
::: EARPHONE ::: when I'm mobile or need to use my Asus Noise Canceling dongle above - I use Apple Earpods.
It's light, it's very comfortable inside my ear for prolonged periods, it sounds amazing, even better than some of my expensive wireless headphones, and it include mic as well, a good quality one too.
At $16, it's a steal: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-EarPods-3-5mm-Headphone-Plug/dp...
::: WEBCAM ::: at first I was like the others, and use Logitech's webcam.
Soon I found out that even its most expensive one suffer from stupid AF (autofocus) problem - it kept making my face out of focus at random times, it's so embarrassing.
So after checking many reviews; I bought Nexigo N60 - and I still can't believe a webcam this cheap actually produces better picture than my previous more expensive webcam, wow. And no more stupid AF. And it works straight away in Linux.
It also claim to have noise-canceling mic, but I haven't tested it yet.
https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-NexiGo-Computer-110-degree...
::: PORTRAIT MONITOR ::: I bought a cheap HP E190i monitor - which can be turned into a portrait monitor.
Suddenly editing documents, Terminal/SSH, etc become much, much more comfortable.
::: Ultrawide Screen Monitor ::: it's a game changer - bought LG ultrawide monitor, and it's so comfortable.
I can put 2 portrait document side-by-side, and quickly compare them, or reference from each other, etc.
Not to mention editing those wide spreadsheets is becoming so much more bearable now.
It's also so much nicer watching movie and playing games using it.
::: GAS-SPRING MONITOR MOUNT::: use it to mount the ultrawide monitor above ; and it's even more comfortably positioned + frees up so much desk space.
::: VACUUM-COOLER ::: my brand-new laptop used to suddenly slowed down to a crawl at times, not only puzzling but of course also, very, frustrating.
Turned out it's unable to expel heat efficiently. Damn this thin laptops.
So I plugged a vacuum cooler on its exhaust port - and instantly it no longer throttled the CPU at random times, yay.
It's now able to consistently run at its peak frequency.
When gaming though it still overheats. I've bought a Carbonaut pad, from Thermal Grizzly. It's supposed to conduct heat about 5 times better than a thermal paste, so hopefully it'll help.
- i'm a stickler for input devices. I have a split keyboard and a Wacom tablet in the middle with a little pen stand that's always close by. I keep daypages in beta.tldraw.com, which has excellent pen and touch support. It's super handy.
- a good field mic for video conference calls. I use a Zoom H1 with a fuzzy pop shield and a little stand to minimize microphonics. I'm perceived as quite feminine and it's sometimes hard to speak up, so it's amazing how much more respect I get on conference calls when I have the confidence of excellent sound quality to back me up.
If I could add something to my setup, I'd like to hook up a small trackball that somehow only emits mouse scroll events. That would really help move around PDFs and webpages.
There are pockets of elitism where people are comfortable in their insular group and use it as a status symbol. But there are plenty of welcoming subgroups; it's just that they may take a little digging.
For keyboards, RGBKB, customMK, and Zenclack have been some of my favorite little Discord communities.
I moved the opposite way and got rid of my mouse for my desktop computer, so everything (except 3D work that is done with a drawing tablet) is done with the keyboard. Web browsing was the hardest to start doing without a mouse...
this wont work with win, you have one cursor two controls.
im sure this has to do with mouse_msg being the same thing[handle] across the two meese.
As much as possible I avoid the mice but when needed it's good to have the option of changing between hands.
Gas-spring monitor mounts are well known by now. I semi-recently hacked together a wall mount gas spring arm & am surprised how much more flexibility & space going from desk mount (first clamp then through-hole) arm to wall-mount gave me; better range of motion, zero desk-space is amazing.
I used to dearly love my Griffin PowerMate jog-wheel for volume control. I really wanted to create a morse-code system for it & got quite far but stopped 50% of the way through. But still, jog-wheels are lovely devices. I'm on split keyboards now but I love so much the old Logitech MX keyboards that I had that also had big job-wheels & media-buttons; having on-tap control over devices was so nice.
AtomCube RX1 (now RX7) has a pretty nice battery-powered videography light that also works great as my key light. I hope one day to figure out how to reverse engineer the bluetooth control protocol for it, but haven't started digging in to how to intercept/reverse engineer the Android app. I also really dig the very cheap the Aputure AL-M9 deck-of-card sized light that works great with my camera; just so versatile a light & imminently affordable.
Fiber optic displayport/hdmi cable. I used to use a 50ft 1080p hdmi cable & some active USB extension cables to put my computer in the hallway or bathroom, connected to a separate terminal, so I could have a no-noise environment. Now, my AIO coolermaster watercooled computer is quite quiet. But there are some very cheap fiber optic cables of up-to literally hundreds-of-feet of length for incredibly cheap prices. The no-name brands seem to work fine. Now I can play games on my roof just fine, thanks to these absurd cheap luxury devices. I've tested up to my gaming monitor's 1440p170 and they work great.
A $20 HDMI<->USB "MS2130" converter for plugging in my cameras as webcams. Present as standard usb-video devices. Alas the frelling monsters making Android phones still don't include the kernel module to support these; how very badly I want to be able to use my phone to control & connect to my cameras, but nooo. Tick the kernel module box on for usb-video, you jerks!
ElecJet Ultra is the most interesting battery pack I have. It's only 10k mAh- <40WHr- which is low capacity. But it charges at 100W across a huge part of the charging curve. This makes it an idea travel unit: wherever I am, I can accept wall power at 100W. That's 3x the rate my laptop accepts. I have some ZMI 20k (mAh) Pro packs that I adore as my mainstay everyday travel units, lots of juice, very compact, nice usb-hub features, but they only charge at 45W, or a ~2hr+ charge time. Being able to get a fully charged pack in ~30 minutes is incredibly useful if I'm on the go & trying to keep a couple devices charged. That said, I often have two ZMI Pro packs, and my multi-output charger will do 90W into both packs, and thus the ElecJet often stays at home. It's still a rare noteable gem of a device to me.