The comment about more easily mounting certain parts applies not only to SMD parts, but can also apply through hole components. You protoboard will probably have 0.1 inch spacing between holes, just like most DIP ic packages, and you can bend resistors and capacitor legs however you want. But there are occasionally some through hole components like buttons, switches or specialized connectors which might have a different requirements. Trying to workaround those can result in a bit janky result. And if you are making something practical you want to use daily, having something more robust and less janky can be nice even for a one off project.
At the end of day it's one more tool in your toolbox. And different people make different kind of hobby project with different needs. I recommend you to try doing it a few times so that you are familiar with the process and overcome the stage where you avoid it just because you have never done it. Afterwards for your future projects you can choose the method that's best suited for specific project.
Being familiar with more tools can also open you doors to new projects that you wouldn't try otherwise.
Just drawing up a PCB can take as much time as building out the same circuit on perfboard. Manufacturing and shipping obviously adds even more time.
Take this next part with a mountain of salt. Things vary wildly based on circumstance, but in general it's easier to make mistakes on perfboard. They're less resistant to physical damage from handling, impact, vibration. They're harder to repair, especially if any time has passed between design and repair.
You should choose a PCB if your circuit:
- needs to last a long time
- must be repairable by another person
- will be produced more than once
- will be anywhere other than a box that never leaves the bench
- has physical or mechanical constraints from the enclosure
Personally, I find joy in building quick and dirty circuits on perfboard. But I get the same joy from a well-designed PCB.
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That being said, there is a lot you can do with hand wiring and DIP parts. And Microchip still makes PDIP uC like AVR DD, ATtiny, MCP6002, and other important parts for projects.
So PDIP / through hole is still alive, but you gotta set your expectations way low. All the MOSFETs and OpAmps and such are just worse, all good parts these days are seemingly surface mount only.
I guess it's still practical while still developing on solderless protoboards.
I'd also bet that PCB projects are more likely to inspire better PCB projects. -- Or at least, the domain I've tried my hand at has been PCBs for custom mechanical keyboards.
e.g. I've seen boards inspired by https://github.com/hsgw/plaid such as https://github.com/coseyfannitutti/discipline or https://github.com/rtitmuss/torn and I think there are several popular split keyboard designs which basically descend from https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix
Even more than aesthetics, I've had a few projects where an unpopulated board outlives any other remnants of a project and so becomes the last remaining document/example of how it was done.
In general I find it's not worth it for a weekend project but if you are going to be looking at it often and want it to last, definitely worth it.
I always breadboard the design before going to the cad.
For any smt parts I try to use prototadvantage on top of it as well
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLy2022BX6EspFAKBCgRuEuzap...
I think the most frustrating thing is just trying to find the correct symbol and footprint for the part you want. Sometimes they're hard to find because you have to understand Kicad's organization scheme. Sometimes what you want isn't there at all so you have to make your own symbol or footprint or both. (Which, to be fair, is reasonably easy to do.)
Exporting a Kicad project's gerbers and drill files to JLPCB is surprisingly easy, but to use their pick and place service is more work. (I just ordered an assembled board for the first time, and had to manually reposition all the parts in their web interface because the position file put all the parts offset way off to one side and with the wrong rotation. Not sure if I did something wrong or there's just a bug.)
I think Kicad just takes a long time to learn. There are a lot of very powerful features that you might not know about at first. Kicad also expects you to do things in a particular way, and if you don't it tends to cause problems.
Kicad 7 is out now, but I haven't tried it yet.