But the thirst for growth is never quenched, so there's always new features, new services. And maintenance of that automation. The work never ends.
There's a 25-50% operations tax every AWS employee pays. But they're handling the operations load that several employees were 10y ago. I used to wake up in the middle of the night to restart individual machines. Now I'm alerted for much much more complex problems. But i'm still woken up :(
Sometimes I wish I could learn everything from scratch. I wish I could join an on prem team to learn all those small details slowly and painfully.
Learning "from the middle" of a tech stack outwards is the default case for everyone, so don't be so hard on yourself. There is no "from scratch", never was even in the Bombe days, just a question of how many abstraction layers you want to tackle. Give yourself time to learn and plenty of room to fail and try again, and "all those small details" will ingrain themselves into you as second nature.
And they do automate, claims that a service like S3 does not have automation are totally ridiculous, and few other general hosting providers have AWS scale here.
That said, their development pace is crazy, with plenty of partially built solutions -> so yes, until something scales enough to need it I'm not surprised they have sysadmin toil. Reality is even the VMware worlds and other onprem stuff, even when "automated" have plenty of turmoil just staying fresh / current / backed up / secured etc. So that's what AWS is selling.
I'd look for other reasons..
I know multiple people who have worked on AWS. There is definitely some manual stuff going on, but there is also considerable infrastructure and automation in other areas.
The SDE role at $FAANG I work at is essentially glorified tech support, which makes the leetcode interviewing process so much more ridiculous than it would be by default if you were actually writing code and solving meaningful problems most of the time.
I don't think you're generalising to all FAANG, just whichever one you work at.
That said, this has not been my experience at all at another FAANG which doesn't use the TLA "SDE".
Which one do you work at so I can go there?
Or at least appear to have those hobbies if you do not.....