I think something like this works well:

0. 45 minute homework/prescreen. Provide an (optional) pre-setup environment so it's mostly about coding and not about building/installing deps.

1. on-site where you chat about your solution, mostly an ice breaker/introduction to the team.

2. pair-programming to extend the homework or work on a simplified but real problem encountered day to day, open book

3. design review

4. code review

5. behavioral / case study

All of these can be pretty objective and don't rely on any memorization. All this should be pre-canned so individual proctors don't come up with their own questions and you're comparing candidates around the same prompts. It's amazing how few companies even manage these basic steps. I think most importantly the hiring should be done by a committee of actual practicing engineers - that means if you have checked in code in six months you aren't a vote on the committee.