Why Starbucks makes burnt coffee
medium.com
medium.com
Eh. I'm all for assuming the worst intentions of corporations at all times - but a much more reasonable assumption to my mind (which doesn't assume direct malice, but rather an understanding of the desires of their customers) is "they know that the vast majority of their target demographic will be ordering 'mixed drinks' anyway, and so there's no advantage to them in 'roasting properly' when the nuance will be lost anyway"
That is - I believe that the author has the order of causation wrong. I don't believe that Starbucks' decisions lead people into drinking Espresso, but rather than Espresso is a specific drink with a specific consumption environment (at leisure, while seated, probably after or alongside a meal) which has no intersection with the consumption environments of customers who are likely to "drop into" a Starbucks. Imagine ordering an Espresso to-go from a drive-thru window!?
[1] Un espresso doppio della portata via
The Italian espresso is small, and is served well-tempered (not too hot) in a well-tempered cup by fast baristas. If you are in a rush, you can drink it in one go straight away. Why would you waste a takeaway cup?
They should. I just checked the online menu and they have americano and various other espresso based drinks, but not espresso specifically. That said if you go in person you should be able to get an espresso buy telling them to make an americano without the water.
It’s a savvy one for a (inter)national brand because it lets them mask inconsistency, and a savvy one when selling lots of latte-like drinks because it lets their signature carry through to those as well.
No, it’s not subtle and delicate and classy, but those characteristics run counter to the McDonald’s-scale business that Starbuck’s pursued.
They needed varying inputs to all taste roughly the same, in some menu of products that remixed a small core repertoire of ingredients in different ways.
Subway sandwiches taste different and more bland than the ones from your local butcher counter because Subway needs to make a billion sandwiches that all taste similarly bland every day, every where, forever.
Starbucks faces the same calculus. It’s nearly a 100 year old business model, it’s exhaustively documented, and it seems to work. If you don’t enjoy their flavor, you don’t need to. But neither convoluted personal theories nor taste snobbery aren’t necessary.
With a super dark coffee, you can get consistent results (consistently bad IMO). If they went for lighter roasts, there would be enormous variability day-to-day which is likely not a great experience for customers who do like a good juicy light-roast espresso.
That can alter personality and cause impulsive behavior, such as impulse purchases.
THAT is why they are burning their coffee.
To quote some random authors: ”evidence has shown a strong relationship between impulsivity and genetic variations of the enzyme primarily responsible for 5-HT degradation, monoamine oxidase-A (MAO-A)”
Those genetic variations change the activity of MAO-A. The same effect is acquired by habitually consuming coffee.
I'd rather agree on this with the SB manager's rationale, that the blend/roast is tuned for the milk-based drinks, indeed, which are priced higher.
From my own experiences, the baristas are often taught to put two shots into tall lattes, otherwise the clients complain of too milkiness. I won't drink that much of caffeine out of simple physiological concerns but completely understand the flavor expectations.
As for the espressos, the coffee habits in the US are very particular, filtered and drip coffee largely rules, now with additional variety of "geeky" brew and drip with tons of bean blends to choose from. And, yes, let's not forget the expectations about the volume - it has to last through a meeting :)
SB blend seems to serve to tastes equally in drip or blended with milk. Simplifies the logistics. For everybody else, try the Reserve.
By the way, SB espresso is not too bad, goes well with vanilla ice-cream! Though my preference with SB is the hot chocolate, most other places care little about the good cocoa.
Latte’s are an exception where a tall only gets 1 shot.
Not all of the beans they sell in grocery stores are so bad (though admitedly many of them are... looking at you French Roast and Winter Blend).
If you don't like their dark roast, maybe choose one of the "blond" roasts, like Veranda.
Or pick a Central American varietal, like Guatemala. Back in the day, Panama was the coffee snob's #1 pick.
Medium roast Pike Place Blend is okay. I recall liking the Christmas blend.
Just from their web page, looks like they now sell fewer varietals. Oh well. I guess it was inevitable. https://www.starbucks.com/menu/at-home-coffee/whole-bean
Makes sense though. Supply and logistics for niche beans is challenging at their volume.
Small roasters (Herkimer, Lighthouse, etc, etc) can pick the best 500 lbs of beans and roast them to perfection.
Whereas Starbucks buys millions of pounds, of varying quality, and tries to get all the batches to taste about the same. That's why they have blends and roast darker.
Sure, hiding in those million of pounds are some amazing beans. But they all go into the machine just the same.