Help: Google Chrome UX Downgrade

This is my fault for still using Chrome.

Today it auto-updated itself to the latest version (110), and in dark mode (windows 10) on the url bar, when typing things into the urlbar, it no longer shows a blinking cursor if I type in anything resembling previous sites.

To wit: https://i.imgur.com/1r15aY3.png <- this is what it looks like. No blinking cursor, no contrast whatsoever between what I've typed, and what is being auto-completed.

How do I turn this off? And more generally, how do I just... make.... auto-updating stop?