AirGradient Open Source Air Quality Monitor for CO2 and PM2.5 Measurements
airgradient.com
airgradient.com
[1]: https://www.aqmd.gov/aq-spec/sensors
[2]: https://www.open-seneca.org/
[3]: https://sensirion.com/products/catalog/SPS30/
[4]: https://community.purpleair.com/t/new-version-of-plantower-p...
I bought a Dylos DC1700-PM a while back for around $400; interesting to see how the lab test shows it producing varying data at 65%+ humidity (I live in a fairly humid climate and that perhaps contributes to why I see large shifts in readings throughout the day).
Is there a good, sub-$3000 meter that is accurate, 'just works', and requires little to no maintenance?
Every review I check for any consumer accessible device seems to indicate they're inaccurate, miscalibrated, or downright deceptive :-(
What I'd like is a box which would just host an HTTP endpoint on my wifi network, and respond with a Prometheus metric endpoint (maybe throw JSON in there so it can give a "device specific" super accurate response too).
Let the community worry about the rest of the integration.
I picked this one because it also monitors Nitrogen Monoxide which gas stoves give off which many other air monitors do not test for.
I haven’t tried their IFTTT integration though, that will be next.
We have one in office, I think more than 2 years already and haven't changed batteries. Bought new one, compared readings and CO2 readings were matching.
Was trying to look whether old one should be recalibrated (per instructions, have to leave outdoors for a while every <don't remember> months). However our office CO2 is already ~600-700ish when people are here, so maybe it is fresh enough for recalibration.
Ah, and home-assistant integration is finally available for Aranet https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/aranet/
On the topic of allergens, I wasn't able to find any device that can measure that.
You can check if the monitor is RESET AIR certified which is an independent and 3rd party test against reference devices.
[1] https://www.notebookcheck.net/IKEA-VINDSTYRKA-smart-air-qual...
> shows you a green light until 35 μg/m³ which is SEVEN TIMES the WHO air quality guideline. It is also around 3 times what the US AQI regards as Good.
https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/blog/ikea-vindr...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005011458177.html
$15 from AliExpress including shipping. If you are concerned about accuracy, could you not take it outdoors to see how it measures the unaffected atmosphere, then bring it back indoors to see how it compares? For instance, if you are concerned that the 900 PPM reading in your bedroom is inaccurate, you could take it outside and see how it reads compared to the expected ~420 PPM. You might be off by a few PPM, but would it not be accurate enough to see if you are approaching dangerous levels?
It does use auto calibration, which means you need to bring it outside for a few minutes every once in a while (7 days IIRC). Not doing it will not break it, but the readings will drift downward (sensor assumes that the lowest reading it gets in a period of time must be 400 ppm) - and will be fixed in a few minutes outside (few minutes of <400 ppm sets lowest reading to 400).
So after 8 days plugged in, the sensor is sure to be calibrated incorrectly to inside air, then you take it outside and it recalibrates again to correct values within a few minutes?
Also, to properly calibrate the Netatmo needs to be exposed to essentially outside air once a week as it takes the weekly lower bound as its reference point. More sophisticated sensors don’t have this limitation.
There's no pricing though and it looks like it's tied to subscription software.
It depends on your purpose.
[1]: https://style.oversubstance.net/2021/08/diy-use-an-ikea-vind...
However now my VINDRIKTNING shows red with MAX reading all the time - I suppose not to be placed in the kitchen - some sticky oil grease landed on the sensor.
Every all-in-one air quality monitor I've seen except one omit some fairly important metrics - NO2 and hydrogen sulfides. I'm guessing it's because the sensors are extremely expensive (I got quotes for $90+/ea from one vendor). I ended up finding a startup, SPEC Sensors, that has much cheaper screen-printed sensors, and if their data sheets are to be believed, they're more than sufficient.
I agree that the data sheets from Plantower are not great. Unfortuntately this is often the case from Chinese manufacturers.
Btw, why thousands? And any reasons for not using CCS811 for TVOC and HDC1080 for temp while you're at it? Sounds like you have tons of experience and it's not easy to find reviews which properly test these.
https://dheera.net/projects/airmonitor/
I used a PMSA003I and had major problems with it -- it was always reporting 0 for AQI if the actual value was anywhere below ~100. It wasn't sensitive to low levels of pollution. Is the PMS5003 any better?
I manage to keep indoor PM2.5 levels within 1% of what's happening outside, which the sensor also tracks as expected (so if outside it's 100 µg/m³, the indoor sensor shows 0-1 µg/m³, when the outside level rises to 250, my sensor starts showing 2-2.5 µg, and so on).
- The instructions aren't great, but I can't remember what I had trouble with specifically.
- The included screws for the case are tiny, soft, and aren't self tapping. I never got them in all the way and gave up on them after the first disassembly. The USB power cable sort-of holds the clamshell together without them.
- I had issues with the reliability of the connection to the I2C sensors, especially after adding the SGP30. Reducing the speed to 100kHz helped somewhat but made the display update slowly. I never got the SHT3x temperature sensor to work reliably in the bottom corner position, so I moved it to the open top spot. I did try out various levels of I2C pull-up and removed redundant pull-ups from the modules that came with them installed. I think part of the problem is the loose fit of the included pin headers, soldering the sensors directly may help.
- The temperature sensor always reads high by about 5-10 degrees F, even when installed in the recommended far corner position. I tried mounting the airgradient vertically to try to induce a draft to clear out the generated heat but that didn't help. I could try to calibrate it but I doubt it's a simple offset.
- The dashboard is basic, had some annoying bugs, and they want you to pay for it. I can't remember specifically what I disliked because I replaced the firmware with EspHome long ago and set up a grafana dashboard to monitor it.
With the new version (3.7) that is also now sold as the updated kit we have addressed most of these issues.
- we now supply stainless steel torx screws including screw driver
- we have now the SGP41 AirGradient module in our shop that has no pull up resistors and works very stable
- we redesigned the i2c circuit which now runs completely on 3.3v
- so far we never charged a DIYer for our dashboard but might do so at a reasonable price in future if our server costs rise.
We continue fixing issues (software and hardware) that come up in our forum and are dedicated to ensure we deliver a high quality kit.
Some issues:
- It’s easy overall but the instructions are pretty not good.
- The OLED displays text upside down. As far as I can tell, it is mounted the only correct way it can be mounted in the case.
- The unit is connected to Wi-Fi and is pingable, but it’s only communicated to the dashboard once. It’s displaying data on the OLED. I don’t have any firewall rules for it. Definitely more troubleshooting required on my end.
I’m using a 1A power supply for it. Does it need more?
- Be sure to flash via the ESP board's USB-C. Do not use the board USB-C as this is for power only. The docs are actually pretty clear here, but it's worth mentioning.
- It doesn't matter if you have a Pro DIY or Pro DIY Pre-Soldered, flash the image corresponding to the actual position of the OLED.
Lower right OLED: https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/instructions/di...
Upper left OLED: https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/instructions/di...
- Your serial number is just the hexadecimal after the "AG-" or "AirGradient-" designation of your unit (eg. "206d86"). Mine was "AG-" which doesn't match what the docs say. Use this 6 or however many hexadecimal serial number to add the unit to the Dashboard. It seems to fail after the first update if you include the "AG-".
If the text is upside down, you flashed from the wrong build instructions. For the PRO Kit (OLED bottom right) use [1] for PRO Presoldered (OLED top left) use [2]
The reason we had the display on two different location can be found here [3]. From now onwards we will only have display windows on the bottom right.
Please use at least 2.4A power supply. The WiFi issues could be due to that.
[1] https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/instructions/di...
[2] https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/instructions/di...
[3] https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/blog/diy-pro-ki...
I will try to track down a 2.4A power supply, thanks.
I did not have a 2.4A USB power supply handy, so I'm still using an old 1A iPhone USB charger and it works fine with the AG across the house from my WAP.
Oof. IMO unless the board only needs 500mA at 5V, you'll save yourself a ton of money in customer service calls by providing your own power supply and "requiring" customers to use yours.
It has also pin breakouts so you can easily add additional sensors if required. Hardware and software are both open source and can easily be adjusted.
For the particulate sensors it's unavoidable but you can use Sensirion's SCD4X series for CO2, just about any VOC chip you want, and an ESP32 module instead of dev board.
It should be substantially cheaper overall since the components can be ordered in bulk and the only assembly needed would be the particulate sensor.
I've been meaning to get around to it myself but I still haven't settled on how to power it. I'm really tempted to try stuffing it full of giant batteries so that it can run for at least around a year without a cable.
We are testing the SCD4x and like it so far. It might be a future option.
[0]: https://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/Sensirion-SCD41_DR2/C3659294
[1]: https://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/Sensirion-SGP41_DR4/C3659325
[2]: https://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/EspressifSystems-ESP32_S2_MINI...
Edit: Never mind! I found out tapping the credit card logo worked to do a pass through payment without logging into PayPal. Purchased!
And thanks for supporting international shipping too!
The source for AirGradient is not closed. It is open.
Because outdoor levels seem to vary significantly in a kind of 400-600 range, and it's impossible to calibrate a sensor outside without a reference point. On a windy winter day you can probably assume it's close to the global ~414, but on a muggy still summer day my sensors usually read significantly higher when holding them outdoors.
Our society deserves to have a publicly available map of outdoor emissions. There are lots of hard science and data analysis questions to solve in order to get there with reliable and cheap sensors, but I think it’s a journey worth going on.
We’re on discord and GitHub if anyone wants to come build with us.
I've been utterly baffled by how atmospheric CO2 is one of the very top issues of our time, and yet... I can get live temperature, humidity, and things like PM2.5, PM10, NO2, O3, etc... but not CO2.
Since you're in this area, do you have any insight as to why?
There are thousands of official air quality monitors used all over the world for calculating AQI and similar. Why did they skip CO2? Is there something inherently difficult or inaccurate about measuring it, is its short-term variation simply seen as irrelevant to health and not worth studying, or is there a political fear that live monitoring might somehow become ammunition for climate change deniers, along the lines of every winter blizzard leading to some people taunting "where's your global warming now?"
The US government measures CO2 at the Mauna Loa Observatory in Hawaii... and seemingly nowhere else?
Another side of this issue is that CO2 is relatively difficult to measure reliably, because it is a very unreactive molecule. It is not susceptible to oxidation or most other reactions that can be used to determine its presence. Most reliable sensors use an IR light source and measure its attenuation by CO2.
As for your question about why does this not exist, there isn’t exactly one reason, but all of the reasons you stated above are certainly a part of the story.
The US government has not deployed a network like this primarily due to cost. Monitoring stations that the EPA install typically have a cost of at minimum $100k to install and finding people to maintain it is even harder.
Citizen science networks are generally started and deployed by for-profit companies. Because it’s hard to draw a direct line between a high CO2 measurement and some sort of immediate effect, most for-profit companies can’t justify the cost to build and sell something like this. For instance, purple—air is a for profit based on pollution particles. Consumers latch onto this because it has direct health effects and benefits you as the purchaser to know if you should open the windows or not today. Same with weather monitoring stations. There is a direct benefit for you in planning your day to know what the hyper local temperature outside is.
It’s a real shame and a place where capitalism fails society in my opinion. Having more data on the issue is important to inform gov. policy, hold emission sources accountable etc.
However I do think it’s worth doing, hence why the org. is a non-profit.
An aquarium bubbler , or rather two, should be easy to plumb to a CO2 sensor. Just skip the water bath for one of them.
The calcium hydroxide is sold as "hydrated lime" and needs to just be stored isolated from CO2, and is mildly basic, so will slowly corrode your fingers (wash after touching, don't get any in your eyes).
Shouldn't even need gloves for this usecase, where one occasionally swaps the water and sediment for fresh stuff.
Btw, the waste, after soaking CO2, is just harmless limestone. Sprinkle around somewhat to make it a thin layer to ensure it all converts soon.
But realistically for home air quality measurements, it doesn't really matter. If you happened to calibrate it at 600 ppm you'd know when you later saw values below 400 ppm. Or you'd read a little high which probably isn't something you'd even notice.
I was researching all the sensors and kits and was narrowing down on AirGradient actually. Per my research the best last gen CO2 sensors are from swiss Sensirion SCD4x series. So I started looking how to build something on it etc.
While poking around, by pure chance I saw that Sensirion makes SCD4x-CO2-Gadget which is SCD41 sensor with LED indicator and BLE and powered by USB the size of flash drive.
https://sensirion.com/products/catalog/SCD4x-CO2-Gadget/
So, you can just stick it in USB charger anywhere and either use visuals or a mobile app that will show the number or import data for a chart. All for $60 from official Sensirion dealer like digikey.
I don't mean to sound like an Ad, but it's the best sensor as far as I know, for least cost and nothing to solder (perhaps a negative for some :) No affiliation.
You don't have control over calibration however, it's set to auto. So you need to expose it to outside air every 7 days or it will drift. The good news that a drift should be automatically fixed in just a few minutes after you take it outside.
If you live in a high co2 area, the ppm values will not be accurate. But relative measurements will be. And you can just add the difference if you know it to any number you see.
[0]: https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/blog/d1-mimi/
[1]: https://forum.airgradient.com/t/issues-with-new-dyi-pro-pres...
The "Mimi" version should not have the problem and we found it to be very stable and it is currently our default version.
More information here: https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/blog/d1-mimi/
https://www.seeedstudio.com/Smart-Citizen-Starter-Kit-p-2865...
It is mainly for outdoor pollution (including light & noise), but it also include indoor gaz sensors for Co2 and VOC.
A PM2.5 sensor is based off of infrared LEDs and photodiodes.
CO2 however is harder for me to understand. Does anyone know how that works?
Temperature is easy: just a calibrated thermistor.
Humidity: I dunno and am also curious.
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It's be a lot more comfortable for me to call this open source if the sensors actually gave design control to the engineer, more so than just assembly.
So if you know the brightness of the LED and the volume of air between it and the sensor, you can calculate the amount of CO₂ by comparing the expected vs. received light intensity.
[0] https://rmtplusstoragesenseair.blob.core.windows.net/docs/pu...
So methinks that a CO2 sensor would have to be based off of multiple LEDs + Photodiodes, to measure the absorbed light at _different_ frequencies. (LEDs and Photodiodes typically are only active at one frequency: such as 900nm or 700nm).
If "all" frequencies are deflected, its PM2.5 (some particle got in the way of the measurement).
If "some" frequencies are deflected, then its CO2.
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The question after that comes down to calibration and test data. Is there an easy way to create CO2 density and/or PM2.5 particles of a certain density?
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There's a big difference.
1. Photodiodes and LEDs are extremely common parts manufactured by a wide variety of companies around the world. By tying yourself to Photodiodes/LEDs, you are less tied to any particular company.
2. Photodiodes and LEDs are well under 10-cents each. Though some more carefully calibrated ones / specialty ones may reach as high as $1 to $2.
That's not entirely correct. The spec sheet for the LED will give an intensity vs. wavelength chart, which depending on the LED can be 10s to 100s of nanometers wide. As long as the source LED has a sufficiently bright output in one of the CO₂ absorption bands, it doesn't have to be exactly tuned like a laser.
NDIR is the technology used in most consumer-grade CO₂ sensors: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nondispersive_infrared_sensor
Most CO₂ sensors have the ability to calibrate to either 400 ppm or 0 ppm. So if you really care enough, you can fill a small box with nitrogen and calibrate to 0 ppm.
If you don't know what you're doing, then you'll get it wrong (except maybe if you use a fan).
We try to set us apart by promoting open data standards, clear data ownership, long lasting products that are easy to repair and maintain. More details on our main website [1].
I'll include a link to our datasheet [1] as to actually answer the question hoping Im not breaking HN rules.
This stuff annoys me a lot.
https://www.iqair.com/us/newsroom/download-the-airvisual-nod...
Not a friendly API for integrating but you can build from there (I have an air visual pro and I do this)
I was interested because I wouldn't have to deal with customs in their case, but considering the price and interesting integration, dealing with customs might be better :P
smbclient -U airvisual%PASSWORD \\\\192.168.X.Y\\airvisual -c "get latest_config_measurements.json"
if you want an interactive display. Otherwise there are a bunch of csv files with the archived values, under a time-varying filename like:
202301_AirVisual_values.txt
With format:
Date;Time;Timestamp;PM2_5(ug/m3);AQI(US);AQI(CN);PM10(ug/m3);PM1(ug/m3);Outdoor AQI(US);Outdoor AQI(CN);Temperature(C);Temperature(F);Humidity(%RH);CO2(ppm) 2023/01/01;00:00:03;1672531203;0.0;0;0;0.0;0.0;8;3;22.7;72.8;41;406;
https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/shop/#!/DIY-Pro...
1- https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L73QL1V 2- https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/vesync/
Regardless, indoor TVOC levels increase significantly over 2-3 days. Then opening the windows brings them back down. Not sure if that's normal. (TVOC = Total volatile organic compounds)
Any recommendations for quality sensors?
Additionally the sensors are only showing you correct absolute levels in lab conditions, e.g. using ethanol at a specific temperature and humidity. So in real environments, the absolute values are pretty useless.
We now use a newer generation of TVOC senor e.g. the SGP41 that is more index based and eliminates the issue of the absolute values.
We also observe that temperature and humidity can influence the TVOC measurements.
All in all, TVOC is good to detect spikes and check what is causing these, e.g. use of aggressive cleaning chemicals. However the absolute levels in e.g. ppb should better be ignored.
Yes, it is normal that fresh air flushes out chemicals and you can see this improvement. We do like the SGP4x series from Sensirion for TVOC sensors.
A better approach would be to sample consistently and use that to build a graph showing TVOC ppm over time.
TI has PoE chips for around $4, but I don’t know enough about electrical engineering to figure out how to swap that into this design.
Revotech PoE to Type-C Adapter Converter, Convert POE to Output 5V/2.4A USB C with Ethernet, IEEE802.3af with 10/100Mbps , Wired Broadband and PD Charging for Smart Phone/Tablet, Plug and Play (P2C5V) https://a.co/d/7320MNa
Wonder how complex it is to access the network this way. If you have to modify the USB implementation you may as well skip the adapter and add an RJ45 + internal PoE chip…
I do see your commercial offering (AirGradient ONE) and I'd like to buy that for my office. How does a typical consumer purchase one online?
Whenever I see that, it means having to pay somebody quite a bit instead of do it yourself.
You can also physically etch with a milling machine. It's a bit more expensive but low startup cost if you already have a small cnc mill. You probably have access to one at a maker space. That's most likely the easiest way to go.
I just did it for an adapted multi-sensor temperature system and the boards were about $5 and tooling costs were minimal. The quality far exceeded anything that I have ever been able to do by myself.
Self-etching is a royal pain for a medieval quality result. It probably winds up costing more than ordering the boards from PCBWay or similar manufacturer.
My sensor is indoor, but I am curious about picking up an outdoor sensor to see if I can find any long-term correlation between a train passing and increase in emissions.
https://senseair.com/news/customer-cases/aranet4-senseair-su...