Sure, offer variable rates. Offer interruptabke service. But stop wanting V2G, nobody actually wants it.
Sure, offer variable rates. Offer interruptabke service. But stop wanting V2G, nobody actually wants it.
Utilities really want V2G, so it's probably going to happen one way or another. It's probably less applicable to an individual homeowner, but commercial and other fleet operators are going to find this appealing at the right price.
For example: https://www.proterra.com/press-release/massachusetts-electri...
It's possible I suppose that cities and school districts could have busses that have more capacity than they strictly need, and so it makes sense to use any surplus capacity for grid storage (while maintaining a reasonable margin in case a bus has to make an unexpected trip because some other bus had a flat tire or something).
There are only idle for 2 or 3 hours during the day.
(Field trips can add another usage in the middle of the day as well)
I would like to use my car battery as a temporary home battery in the inevitable case of a grid outage. This opens the option to bring energy home from another location. Reduce or eliminates the need for a battery in a grid-tied house.
Am I crazy?
Edit: Granted that doesn't mean the energy company can use my car's battery at it's whim. I think compensation would be required and would actually make a lot of sense. It isn't like the electric company could build out a battery system for cheaper. It would need to be a higher compensation than to PV though. Batteries are more expensive and should be compensated as such.
V2L (vehicle to load) is a simpler form that lets you power 115/230V appliances directly from the vehicle. Quite a few EVs (Hyundai, Ford, etc) already support V2L.
FWIW, the F-150 Lightning car to home option only goes up to 40A, which isn't that much more.
Question is "how long?" and "how much?"
Lets take a 100 kWh battery which matches a Tesla Model S battery option and is a nice number for doing conversions from.
https://shrinkthatfootprint.com/average-household-electricit...
> The recent figures, as of 2021, show that the average annual electricity consumption for a U.S. residential utility customer is 10,632 kilowatthours (kWh). If you divide that by 12 months, the average monthly electricity consumption is 886 kWh per month. What about in a single day? That would be 10,715 KWh divided by 365, or 29 kWh. Then the average daily electricity consumption is 29 kWh.
So, hypothetically, 100 kWh would give you 3 and almost 4 days. This can be improved by unplugging things that consume more power. The other part with this is a "once that 100 kWh is drained, you're stuck stuck."
You're going to still need something between the mains power and the circuit breaker box. I'm also going to note I don't know what rate it can discharge.
You might also want to look at a system that is a dedicated whole house battery backup ( https://www.zdnet.com/home-and-office/energy/best-home-batte... )
The zdnet article links to a Lowes worksheet - https://www.lowes.com/pdf/portable_generator_wattage_chart.p...
And from that, look at the "this is what we want" and the question of "generator or battery" becomes interesting.
Then consider also, you can get a 10,000 watt generator (that does a cutover in event of a power outage in 7 seconds) for about $3000 which can provide 10 kW at 40 amps.
Those have the instant on design so that if the power is lost to the house you have a few seconds and its back up and running.
You may need additional equipment or an upgrade to existing equipment to do the power outage cut over. To do this (and not just support an outlet from the vehicle), it is necessary to remove the house from the grid for the duration - suddenly changing phases can damage equipment (e.g. when the power comes back on). Additionally, if you were still connected to the grid, it would mean that your batteries are trying to support the portion of the entire grid (which it will fail badly at).
This also depends on the equipment that you currently have. Not everyone has a battery backup Tesla power wall. If you are plugging the car into 120v or 240v outlets, that doesn't have the circuitry to support isolation of the house from the grid after a power outage and the wiring for the 120v or 240v outlet isn't heavy enough to support the current draw for the rest of the house even if it was isolated.
You may also decide that trying to do it from the car, while possible, is a bad idea. https://electrek.co/2021/02/23/tesla-voids-your-warranty-pow... and https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/downloads/tesla-ne...
> This New Vehicle Limited Warranty does not cover any vehicle damage or malfunction directly or indirectly caused by, due to or resulting from normal wear or deterioration, abuse, misuse, negligence, accident, improper maintenance, operation, storage or transport, including, but not limited to, any of the following:
> ...
> Using the vehicle as a stationary power source
The former is pretty straightforward. The latter would need a lot of electrical upgrades to the house. (I'd expect you'd need to do about the same thing that people do when they get solar, which is to replace the meter with something that can measure power flows in both directions, and is smart enough to disconnect the solar panels from upstream power when the power goes out, so you don't electrocute people trying to fix the power lines. If you don't have a local battery, that means basically turning the solar system off in a power failure.)
If you aren't planning on selling storage capacity to your local utility, maybe all you really need is an automatic shutoff switch to disconnect your house from the grid when the power goes out.
Either way you'd need some sort of power inverter to convert DC to AC. That could be built into the car, or it could be attached to the house.
Plenty of people are willing to drive 200 miles of Uber as a second job. V2G is a lot more appealing than that I think.