The process that comes with it is there to organize the work and align it with the organization's goals. It can be agile, kanban, waterfall with big upfront design, it doesn't really matter what methodology is used, its there to organize the work. For large and/or existing systems, without that glue there would be programmers running amok solving problems they like to solve with whatever shiny things they want to use. I'm sure without guardrails there are a lot of engineers that would re-write all the code they didn't like, building their own bike sheds all over the place.
Sounds like maybe startups would be your jam. Not a lot of legacy stuff to work on, lots of bouncing around to different types of tasks, shit breaks a lot, etc.
The other idea is more of devops/systems stuff working with the cloud. Lots of solving problems with code (orchestrating cloud resources w/code) with not a lot of Project Manager overhead in the right environment. Lot of incident response.