One slightly weird but fascinating path I have been playing with is writing programs for old game consoles, particularly the Nintendo DS. You can get full and comprehensive hardware documentation for these consoles and there are easy ways to run your own code on them now as well as libraries/tooling around it. But they run no OS, your program runs directly on the hardware, so you get a good feel for low level programming while not being down to the level of atmel chips.
It can be a little hard to work out how to get started but it's really as simple as setting up `libnds` from devkitpro and then either hacking a dsi to run the twilight firmware, or buying a cheap flashcard from ebay to run your own programs. Read the example programs from the devkitpro github and some posts on the hardware and you'll get the hang of it.