All About USB-C: Resistors and Emarkers
hackaday.com
hackaday.com
* https://www.tindie.com/products/cuvoodoo/usb-c-cable-tester/
I mounted it in a little clear case back to back with the microUSB tester board. The battery should effectively last for a decade. There are multiple other similar boards on tindie for comparable prices. I picked based on being able to consolidate shipping price for multiple units; make sure to check where it ships from and how much if you only plan on getting one board.
Searching for "usb c cable tester" on every major search engine pretty much solely returns port testers despite "cable tester" being in quotes. The product category must be pretty stark (and my god do search engines suck now).
I'm also pondering a way to mark my cables with the results of this thing. Color bands (like resitors) with nail polish or something?
* https://www.tindie.com/products/petl/usb-c-cable-tester-c2c-...
but I have no experience with it, so I can't recommend it personally.
You should ask on the /r/usbchardware subreddit. They are generally a friendly bunch and have experience with these exact use-cases.
EDIT: re:color code marking:
As opposed to the one GP linked which just shows which lanes are connected (i.e. if it's only USB2 or not, it has an e-marker or not), this one is fully featured: it reads the actual contents of the E-marker, revealing if the cable supports 100W, Thunderbolt, etc. It even sometimes shows the chipset brand name in the cable!
It can also check Qualcomm QC and USB-PD chargers to see what voltages/amperages they support.
Some "screenshots" of it in use https://bitbang.social/@kalleboo/109391700632886806
(I can read Japanese Kanji though, which along with the screenshots which are pretty clear on the feature set gave me the confidence this is the right thing)
Instead of hastening the demise of a phone battery by fast charging all the time, select fast, regular or slow charge, depending on your circumstances, with the selector switch.
Just looked around, but couldn't find anything already existing though. Seems like something that would already exist on Aliexpress.
Fast charging all the time shortens the battery life.
How much? It's a widespread claim but without specific numbers it's not very helpful, and there are suggestions that the numbers are pretty small.
Limiting max charge, on the other hand, has known strong effects.
Yes, and you used to be able to do that on a rooted android phone. But, Google required the removal of debugfs in recent android versions, so need to run a custom kernel too now to get back that functionality.
Maximum charge, and percent charge where charging begins should be user accessible settings on any device with a lithium ion battery. Charging rate should also be a user accessible setting. The cable idea is just a hacky work-around for crappy software, that addresses one of the reasons lithium ion batteries prematurely fail, and doesn't require modifying the device to be charged.
Fast charging from, say, 10% to 50% probably is a fairly small effect compared to trying to fast charge to 100%.
IIRC, this is a fallback mode on some TI charge controllers. If it can't detect a capacity signal on the D+/- lines, it reverts to this mode of testing the charger. This was intended to support sketchy Chinese trash chargers that leave the data lines disconnected, and whose real power capacity is a mystery. This strategy lets you pull as much power as the charger will suffer
Some chargers will allow you to pull enough power to melt the thing or catch it on fire if they don't have sufficient protections, but it's likely those would have data lines (+ protections) anyway
It takes significant effort to design a circuit that can sustain large amounts of current while keeping voltage constant. There's basically no overlap between that sort of design and cheap Chinese fire hazards.
Unfortunately, like another poster said, many usb-c devices are not compliant and only charge with an "a-c" cable. This is because usb-a defaults to 5V power, but usb-c defaults to no power output without negotiation or CC resistors. If you are in a pinch, a usb c-a adapter plus a usb a-c cable does work. In my experience these use the cheapest possible usb-c connectors that don't expose the CC pins, so to fix them, you need to remove the connector and install a new one. See [3] for power only and [4] for power+data.
Anyway, I always like to share 3 cheap products for anyone interested in upgrading devices to usb-c charging or connectivity. Since these are available from many aliexpress sellers but the actual listings come and go I will share search terms which hopefully work 1+ years from now.
- usb-c charging PCB for a lithium ion cell[2]
- usb-c connector with integrated 5.1kohm resistors, to easily use usb-c for 5V power without data.[3]
- usb-c connector with just enough pins for adding CC resistors and connecting to power and usb 2 data lines in an existing product, but without all the additional pins for usb3 and thunderbolt (because this makes it very difficult for a hobbyist to solder it in place without bridging pins). Unfortunately I don't know of a product with CC resistors + power pins + data pins so you do have to add CC resistors yourself.[4]
- small PCB with a chip to negotiate more than 5V (9V, 12V, 15V, 20V). Some of these offer fixed voltage and some are configurable.[5]
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_Wireless_Keyboard#/media...
[2] "Ultra-mini Type-C USB Charger Module DC 5V 1A Charging Board"
[3] "USB 3.1 Waterproof Type-C Connector 16PIN 5A Female Socket Double 5.1K Resistor Support Charging And Discharging"
[4] "Micro USB-3.1 SMD 16P type-c Female Connector Socket"
[5] "usb-c decoy module"
Do you have any recommendations for search terms for boards that would take in DC power (12V+) and make that available for output over a USB-C connection?
The 20V versions of these make excelent replacements for broken rectangular thinkpad power connectors, as they fit within the footprint. Add a magnetic Usb-c adapter and it's much better than the factory options. Sugru works well for mounting it.
I found this video just today about USB PD "trigger boards" or "decoy modules" in the ali express/ebay/amazon searches.
There seem to be some you can short a resistor on for a locked setting, or others like in the video that have a mode select.
Another tip: if something takes a voltage not available in PD, for example 7.5V, you can often open the device and near the power connector find a voltage regulator. In the regulator's datasheet you will often see that it will accept a higher voltage (like 9V in this example). Be aware that a linear regulator will dump the extra power as heat.
The second problem is something I'd definitely avoid. I think I only have one or two odd values (5.7V etc.)
Definitely something that's more of a pipedream - I hope someday synth manufacturers will just settle on USB-C as the common power standard instead of having something different for each device.