The basic line is something like "if it has been well engineered, and someone has put a whole lot of effort into it, and its a bit different to everything else out there, then we are basically obliged to give it high marks".
They seem incapable of judging devices by the most basic and important standard: user experience. If the user experience is bad, then nothing else matters. A user interface is not brilliant if no one wants to use it.
WinPho7 is the best current example of this going round. Almost universally acclaimed by reviewers, almost totally ignored by consumers.