I don't host my own email server, though I'd like to give it a go one day, even if just as a little sysadmin "adventure".
At the moment, I use the really good Migadu Micro plan.[1] It has very nice limits for the $19/y price (half if you're a student like myself), with a pretty lax and understanding policy. They also care about standards and make an effort for you to configure your domain with all the right records. Even their support was pretty fast and helpful, even in this plan where it's best effort. I am completely satisfied by their service and recommend it to anyone wanting more control over their email, but don't want or can't run their own server.
I've heard great things about FastMail as well. In the end, I think services like these are a great compromise between independence and convenience.