iPhone 14 Pro camera review: A small step, a huge leap
lux.camera
lux.camera
He would still get the awesome shots comments even with the pics he took with the basic mobile camera and shared them on social media.
A photographer visits a friend for dinner and shows her some of his photos, "Oh wow! these are spectacular" she gushes, "you must have an amazing camera". The photographer then replies "that dinner was great, you must have excellent pots".
Most of what professional cameras and lenses get you is the ability to get shots you otherwise couldn't - lower light, further distance, faster action, etc. Particular effect in DOF of flattening. Nothing that makes a good photo.
Without an eye, it's all wasted. But a good eye will see shots that can't be made; more of them if the camera at hand is limited.
This simply is no longer as true as it once was. And has been for at least a decade. More than three decades ago my forward thinking cobol programmer friend stated, drunk, that in the future someone called a wedding photographer will be able to walk into an event with a digital camera, wave it around, then select images for publication without having to sit people, set tripods, or wait for that one-off unique special moment. They were right.
Then camera technology really does make a massive difference, especially in low light, etc.
That's why these Halide iPhone camera reviews are perennially worthless. They've never released a review that feels critically substantially. It's simply "here's the new iPhone hardware we're being forced to support" being copywritten as ad-material for their app.
Those are the side-by-side examples to show the raw file latitude.
If the reason is fancy post-processing, then why can't Nikon have a tiny lens like the iPhone 13 and just add fancy post-processing to it?
You'd be surprised how little megapixels are just fine for putting up on a wall or billboard. It's all about how far away the viewer is.
Edit: Apologies for commenting on downvotes, but I'd be genuinely curious to see some objective evidence that the optics of a typical DSLR lens have a superior design. Of course it is true that larger lenses for larger sensors tend to be superior because they do not need to resolve as many lines per mm and they do not need to be machined as precisely (all else being equal). But does anyone know of any actual lab tests that make relevant comparisons? I am a bit tired of people just assuming that DLSR lenses are higher quality than smartphone lenses, even though the cost of modern smartphones, and the enormous disparity in the number of units sold, makes it far from obvious that this should be the case.
This is not really true to a very great extent once you take depth of field into account. At least, it would be helpful if you could indicate what it is exactly that you take the laws of physics to imply in this context. I made a comment here that's relevant: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=33426540
I took 'superior optics' to be a claim of greater sophistication or higher quality, but perhaps that is not what was meant, and the poster was merely referring to the difference in size.
A 14mm wide-angle lens with a primary opening of 2mm is never going to let in the same amount of light as a 14mm wide-angle with a 114mm primary opening will. Ratio of the sensor size has nothing to do with the ability of the light entering the front lens. There are some adapters that are known as speed boosters that reduce the exit pupil for full frame lenses that will actually add a stop to the lens.
I'm aware of that – that's the point I made in my post that I linked. But DoF considerations entail that you can't just keep arbitrarily increasing the size of the opening.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1akuK5v_PB8DwzDnJC1oJXOETr_S...
Without getting too much into subjective territory, I am personally tired of the bokeh obsession. There's nothing inherently interesting about photos with blurry backgrounds (see above for confirmation!) And if you want background blur, achieving it using software effects is perfectly legitimate.
Congrats! You took a bad photo with a shallow depth of field! I guess the photographer does matter more than the equipment.
> Achieving it with software effects is perfectly legitimate
Sure you can. But if you think software bokeh can compete with any dedicated camera bokeh (even a vintage 35mm camera for that matter) than you need to try and use a dedicated camera with a good prime lens, ie 50mm f/2.
The biggest thing that a dedicated camera can get you is simply options. You can choose the depth of field of the shot. You can choose the shutter speed. You can choose the focal length. Sure you have some control over these things in some apps, but it’s not the same level of control.
I shot on my iPhone for years, but after I got my mirrorless camera I have taken so many pictures that never would have been possible on an iPhone.
It is true that a dedicated camera gives you more options. (I did not deny this.)
>You can choose the shutter speed
Pedantic point: you can also choose the shutter speed on a cell phone camera if you use one of many apps that give manual control over shutter speed and ISO.
The mirrorless photos will look much better on a laptop or bigger screen but about the same on a phone.
But the idea of enhancing filters or social media features is completely alien to them.
Autocorrect RAW in Adobe Photoshop looks good. And certainly on a 4k monitor the DSLR images reveal more detail.
My post here has me realizing I need to take iPhone and DSLR shots side-by-side in the same place with the same lighting and begin to compare them in-camera and in post-processing.
Popular notion is that at f/11 only will diffraction start to affect you, but with modern high resolution cameras diffraction starts to creep in as early as f/9, so f/5.6 is generally best unless you really need the deeper field. You're probably going to be fine at 24MP, though.
this is bad advice.... shoot on a tripod and set your f stop to get the DOF you need or do a focus stack, f/5.6 would work if your shooting a distant landscape but having anything in the foreground f5.6 would not be enough, i usually stay at around F10 any higher i don't like because diffraction starts to reduce image quality and if i need more DOF i just focus stack
for ISO set it to 100 or what ever your cameras base ISO is
then adjust your shutter speed until you get correct exposure
As for the exposure you can just use aperture priority with your ISO set to the base ISO. On a Nikon camera you'd actually want to be at 64. If the scene doesn't have challenging highlights then going under the base ISO or overexposing will provide even better results.
iPhones apply filters to make the photos look more vivid and to make them "ready to share". If a professional camera would do that, it would not be professional.
This does annoy many people who then switch to Snow/BeautyCam to actually take their pictures since they want to look prettier.
There seems to be an assumption here that dedicated cameras* always shoot in raws you can spend your time editing later, but that's not the case. If I shoot a concert or wedding and want to return the photos the next day, and in-camera JPEG or HEIF looks good, I'm shooting that.
* you can't make me say "DSLR", they aren't all DSLRs
If a users needs are being met by an iPhone then they shouldn't worry about dslrs.
If a users needs aren't being met by the dslr gotta wonder is it the technology or the skill of the user?
That's a challenge, I think. Take an R5 (only because I'm most familiar with it).
47 megapixels, 12 bpp 211.5MB, maximum shutter speed of 1/8000. In other words, you need to be able to pull data off the sensor (and to be clear, there's parallelization available, I just don't know what) at a global rate of 1.6TB/s.
And I'm sure there is multiple processing paths - I just don't know the fine details about how that raw data is slurped off the sensor.
Not sure what I'd need frame rates above 100 for stills so, but that's just me, because it sure is cool.
It's a 20 MP micro 4/3 sensor - so 1/4 the surface area of "full-frame".
Edit: I should compare file size, usong the same settings, between a D700 and D300. Same MP, same camera basically, one being FF and one being DX. Or someone with more knowledge on sensors and digital cameras can answer the question.
Textures can also throw them off - "amplification" of the texture effect, almost.
They also suffer a bit zoomed in.
The post-processing fixes a lot of problems of older phone cameras but it has its limits.
On good camera hardware there's very little that all that post-processing would add outside of extreme-high-ISO-noise, IMO. Which - would it be nice? Sure. But you can find software and stack exposures manually and such for those situations too.
And a lot of the other smart stuff gets fooled too easily.
The DSLR images also retain much more detail in cropping.
It's useful for cases of "you're noise reduction is fucking with my texture" in decent lighting or similar, but in lower light I haven't found it to be a worthwhile tradeoff.
I don't know if it's "real" or not but between work and my personal life I've got decision fatigue. Help make decisions. Especially about non-important ones that feel important at the time.
I wonder what kind of mansions they live in, because I've seen the same 20something dude have like 5 different washing machines and 7 different fridges at home =)
It seems like some table choices are better for the customer, some are better for the server. As a customer I like to be away from the other tables and the server wants everyone together in a noisy clump.
It was pretty fascinating. I ended up doing a fair bit of independent research on the topic to see if it was just same sales BS or a known psychological phenomenon, and it turns out it's a well-known branch of psychology/sociology. (Not necessarily related to the Decision Fatigue / Ego Depletion theory which has been tough to replicate, but is probably true in some respect).
Coincidentally enough, I took that education to my next job, which was waiting tables, and it held up there very well. The key, in my opinion, is actually being deeply knowledgeable about the product so your recommendations are authentic. Bonus points if you use the product.
“Allow the illusion of choice”.
0. https://www.usatoday.com/story/money/columnist/2018/07/31/br...
1. https://mediaroom.iese.edu/new-research-shows-why-the-human-...
I think it's a great example of the phrase "took many cooks in the kitchen spoil the broth". For any given editing task you want, there are like 5 different modules that all do basically different variations on the same thing, and each one has quirks that presumably only make sense to the original author of that module.
A bit of a digression but the reason why phones need so many exposures to get a decent low light image is due to their sensors/optics being relatively poor at low light. You would only need a small fraction of the exposures from a modern pro-grade camera to generate a comparable final image. This also lets you capture objects in motion in low light far, far better since you can get your required image data in a smaller temporal window.
Though of course deep sky photographers do actually just this - many exposures composited together - but then we are talking about subjects so dim you need effective exposures of 30 minutes or so.
This assumes the (typically Gaussian) noise is applied to a static image. Arguably, one could exploit the slight shakiness in a handheld shot to create an image with even less noise.
As a thought experiment, consider thousands of shots of a perfectly static scene made with an idealized, noiseless camera that is moved a very tiny amount for each shot. You could continue improving the resolution of a generated, composite image quite a bit until warping due to camera displacement became noticeable.
Recent techniques like this are actually being used for cryo-electron microscopy to create extremely high-resolution imaging of proteins.
Nikon just expects you to handle that post processing part that your iPhone is doing for you. In exchange you get way more control over the final image.
Both devices are aimed at different people. I myself have an iPhone 13 pro and a Nikon Z6ii. I tend to take snapshots with my iPhone because getting out the Nikon + playing around with sliders in Capture One is just too much hassle for a snapshot. Now would I take the iPhone and do a landscape photo where I hiked 6 hours to the photo location at 3 a.m. in the morning? Probably not. ;)
Try taking a portrait photo in iffy lighting, like at a concert, wedding, sporting event, etc. Something that really needs a fast and sharp lens.
iPhone photos are excellent as long as viewers are only seeing them on iPhones.
"HDR stacking" apps are actually "SDR tone mapping" apps; they /start/ with an HDR result and make it not HDR anymore!
See also https://www.dslrbodies.com/newsviews/news-archives/nikon-201... and https://www.dslrbodies.com/newsviews/news-archives/nikon-201...
Phone makers put the processng power at the post processing of photos, for people who never do their own post processing.
Both approaches are equally valid, they simply aim at different markets. And as far as softeare vs. physics goes, no amount of software and processing power can overcome the laws of optics.
Capturing non-raw in my experience (iPhone 6S, now have 13 mini) the jpegs are heavily de-noised, and really don't look that good 1:1 on a large monitor: on the iphone screen they look very good, as they're downsampled.
The article mentions the 'watercolor' effect since the iPhone 8, but I definitely had the issue with all the jpegs taken on my iPhone 6S since 2015...
DNGs however DO look very good, so clearly the sensor is capable of pretty nice images.
What people often mean by similar statements is they like default phone processing compared to 0 in the camera, and there is enough detail due to tons of light and due to landscapes being generally easiest scene to shoot.
As for why they are not comparable, also a very strange question from seemingly experienced photo shooter - compare software development department and budget in Apple vs Nikon, who is a tiny player we all love (have D750 since it came out and carried it everywhere up to 6000m), they use very specialized CPUs which are very good for 1 thing only (basic operations on raw sensor data and potential jpeg transformation), and various ML and stacking transformations aren't simply available there at performance required. The whole construction of camera and processing hardware isn't around snapping 30 pics and combining them together under 1s, pre-taking pictures before actually hitting shutter etc.
The point of such a camera is not the in camera processing, which most pro users would not use on principle. Instead it's gaining a lot of control over setting up the shot properly with a lot of control over all the parameters that matter to achieve a look that matches what you want, intentionally. And then you finish the job in post processing. There's reason these things have so many buttons and dials: you need to use them to get the most out of the camera. And the point of owning such a camera is having that level of control. The flip side is that that makes you responsible for the intelligence. That kind of is the whole point. If that's not what you wanted, you bought the wrong camera.
The iphone has a very limited set of controls. You actually have very little control over it. Nice if that's what you want and the AI is awesome. But it's also a bit limiting if you want more. Of course it's very nice when that's the camera you have and you want to take a shot quickly by just pointing and clicking. Nothing wrong with that. I have a Pixel 6 and a Fuji X-T30. I use them both but not the same way.
Probably one of the biggest mistakes people make: not understanding at what aperture their lens is sharpest - typically stopping the lens down too much.
Other mistakes: not using a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate blurring from mirror slap (or using anti-mirror-slap features in their camera), not using a sufficiently sturdy tripod and mount, and so on.
Also, sometimes lenses just don't leave the factory in very good shape. If you struggle to get sharp results, it may be beneficial to send it in for service. The stuff sent around to reviewers has been obsessed over by the manufacturer, perfectly tweaked on a lens testing bench to get it as close to perfect as they can.
Apple ate their lunches and then some. While I'm an old-school photographer who thinks a great SLR camera is the photographic equivalent of driving a Porsche, I don't miss carrying pounds of gear around. (OTOH I HATE the Ux of iPhones for photography.) I digress. The camera biz is a classic biz school study in humans being human.
(Which requires a lot of patience, but an old one would be cheaper than a new camera. Though renting is always an option.)
edit: changed "sensor sizes" to "sensor areas" for clarity.
Likely a Z6 from the price point you mentioned. It has 24 MP (instead of iPhone 13's 12MP) and a much much higher dynamic range (more than 11 steps vs an iPhone's about 8). So unless you don't know what you're doing the Nikon is a way better camera (as it should be. It ways 5x as much with lens)
Now try to do sports photography with a mobile phone.
The first problem is lack of zoom compared to a 200mm lens. The second issue is trying to get the 1/8000 exposure you need on a rainy football field you need to stop the action for a good photo.
This, 100%.
The massive difference in image quality is when shooting in RAW. That’s when you actually get the 48MP & the images are fantastic.
But that’s not the default. The default is 12MP.
That’s why reviewers are so torn on this camera system. If the default was a 48MP picture/quality, everyone would be praising it. But when the default is 12MP, it’s par for the course.
If you use photos as a way to preserve memories, then who knows what these photos are going to be displayed on in the future?
Maybe in the (near) future, we start adopting VR headsets, and then the 12MP vs 48MP difference is going to matter a lot.
On the low-tech end of the spectrum, maybe you want a larger poster printed out. If you need to crop some part of the image at all, the difference in resolution is going to be very noticeable.
Why would you view 2D images in a stereoscopic 3D headset designed for video? Do existing photos look bad in current VR headsets because they lack resolution? I haven’t used any of the modern VR headsets but I’m willing to bet that there isn’t a significant difference between a 12mp and “48mp” iPhone 14 pro photo on a VR headset.
You’re also ignoring the context — of course higher resolution is better in isolation, no one would argue otherwise. But it comes with significant trade offs, like the FOUR SECOND capture time and the enormous file sizes.
If you want to print a cropped photo from an iPhone on a large poster (be honest — do you know anyone who currently prints iPhone photos on posters on a regular basis? I’d argue that hardly anyone prints iPhone photos at all nowadays, and especially not at large poster sizes), 12mp vs “48mp” isn’t going to make a difference, it’s going to look bad either way.
Anyone seriously concerned about their ability to print large format posters from cropped images is going to be using a full frame or medium format camera.
We know current iPhone photos look fine on 6inch high PPI displays (displays that already exceed the resolution of the human retina) and when printed at common sizes (4x6, 8.5x11). That’s never going to change. Making the iPhone camera workflow significantly worse for users now is not an acceptable trade off for vague, hypothetical future use- cases.
The 48MP sensor still has 48MP of monochromatic resolution, but it only has 12MP of effective color resolution. You'll still see fine details, but the colors are not as high resolution as the details. This is rarely a problem, given the way the human eye processes color.
I don't think the artifacts are directly from aliasing but rather an artifact of software interpolation.
It anyone knows better please correct me.
The 48MP camera has the same color spatial resolution as a 12MP camera, but it has 48MP of monochromatic spatial resolution. Humans aren't as sensitive to color resolution as they are to spatial resolution in general. This is why the "2x" mode on the 14 Pro look great compared to what you might expect based on your comment. The 2x crop only has "3MP" of color resolution, but the 12MP of spatial resolution from the 2x crop makes it perfectly usable.
For your specific use case, the ultrawide camera may work fine as a "macro" lens, depending on the size of the pixels you're trying to capture. A real macro lens on an interchangeable lens camera would obviously do better.
This wasn't meant to be a nice dataset, it was just something I quickly tried to document my observation to a single other human. I would have been more careful if I expected to share it more widely.
Even if the lens was operating at the limit of physics, you'd get a 2 micron first ring of the airy disk at 500nm, which is bigger than the size of the pixels. It can help a bit to have pixels smaller than the smallest detail the lens can resolve, but at the same time the lens isn't operating at the physical limit, so there is probably only a small increase in spatial resolution.
The main advantage to me is that the result is much less affected by Apple's always-on edge-sharpening processing. The effective "resolution" of the processing artifacts is higher.
In previous iPhones if you take a photo of a bunch of leaves on a tree it's almost like it tries to draw a little sharpened outline around each one, which looks like a watercolor mess if you zoom in at all and doesn't capture what your eye sees.
With the 48mp compressed shots I find landscapes and trees look much more natural and in general you can crop and zoom into photos further before the detail is lost in the processing mess.
Unlikely. You mean mb not kb.
Looking through my recents I am seeing 5-20mb for 48mp HEIC as opposed to 60mb+ for 48mp ProRAW images.
[1] Other camera apps are available, etc.
But it does look like it was shot through a window without a polarizer filter.
I do agree the other pics are great though (and own an iphone (because the company paid for any phone and I wanted the best camera...)). I'm not 100% happy with the "iphone look", too much fine contrast for my taste, but it's of course great cameras.
Fortunately, most of the venues I go to for shows generally have a "No detachable lens cameras" rule, which means my Fuji X100 is allowed. Unfortunately, security at the venues often ignores the policy and I don't want to be That Guy holding up the line arguing with them about it.
(I'm also not one of those people that is taking pictures [and I never record video] the whole show, I just want a handful of high quality shots to help me remember the show)
(Not doubting it happened, just think that's a very weird line of rationale from them)
Or maybe they just annoy other patrons.
Was it hard to get the press pass? Maybe it’s just to stop people avoiding that process.
1) Historically, some bands have been concerned about their image and felt that professional-looking photos that painted them in a bad light, whatever that meant in reality, would be more damaging than amateur photos. I don't hear this as much today, but 15 years ago it was frequently given.
2) Concerts with a lot of standing room near the stage already get quite crowded. Someone showing up with a bulky dslr (or even prosumer grade mirrorless) body and a 200mm lens is going to take up quite a bit of room. Prior to the advent of half the damn crowd keeping their phones in the air recording the show for the entirety of it I would also say it obscures vision and annoys people, but now it's really not any worse than that
3) They don't want someone to try and hold them liable if something goes wrong and some expensive camera body or glass gets broken.
On the times I've been able to bring my full camera gear in without a press pass, I stick to as small of a lens as I can and avoid being near the front of the crowd. Thankfully, even quite a ways back from the front of the crowd, a 50mm prime lens will still take some fantastic photos on a real camera vs. what you get with a smartphone. I understand why the rules are in place, though, and I don't really have a problem with them in general.
https://i.imgur.com/gm8jUkj.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hrBL18U.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zLPFgPW.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1kPzHZ3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/97R9asy.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3ITpUuT.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1MClydK.jpg
(No editing by me, though I did pick preferentially some photos that weren’t blurred majorly. The largest blurred object appears to be the DJ (BT) who was moving a decent bit.)
It’s great you found that work around with Fuji x100. I just think this is a valid though minor complaint since most cameras suffer in the same context, and I wish people would stop taking photos at concerts hahaha.
Google's computational photography is years ahead. The latest Pixel has better sensors too.
Maybe I am very biased by almost a decade of full frame shooting basically everything, but I like photo representing what I actually see with my own eyes at that moment.
When talking about Pixels, when I saw some non-ideal light samples from latest one, it was pretty clear neither Apple nor ie Samsung (which I own and love, S22 ultra) are in same league in many aspects of photography. But Pixel 6 had some pretty annoying issues from user reports. On the other side it costed (and v7 still does) significantly less from day 1.
Other comparisons: https://www.phonearena.com/news/Pixel-7-Pro-vs-iPhone-14-Pro...
https://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/iphone-14-pro-vs-google...
That said, Im an iPhone user and I very likely have a bias. It would be cool to take a blind quiz to see which I actually prefer and if I do have a bias. I wonder if there’s a web service that easily lets you do this with imgur albums.
Having said that, I would love to see a large sensor camera with gcam esque chops. It’s not too hard to run into the limitations of the small sensor.
I think google computational might be better in some edge cases, but it comes at the cost that sometimes it over-processes things: some textures look painted on my pixel photos, some night shoot feel "cool" but do not capture what I'm looking with my eyes at all, no matter my settings. And with portraits I have this feeling sometimes that I capture a nice image only to see it somehow ruined when the processing ends, with the face that becomes too "beautified" (smooth skin, etc).
I feel the iPhone computation is overall better for the most common lightning situations and maybe less aggressive, but I would need to test it for way more time to form a more complete opinion.
later, when sharing the photos, i realized we could distinctly see my partner and I in the reflection of the cat's eye. the CSI enhance memes are real :-)
i feel there is more to this story
Okay...but how does it perform taking pictures of my toy dog in suburb-town USA?
They just have lots of fancy processing that makes quick snaps look better than the same amount of effort on a camera.
But there's no world in which it's technically superior to a real camera, especially one with in-camera processing or in the hands of a professional with access to and skill with professional post-processing software.
If I zoom out from parsing word by word...
...feels like I'm saying a Keurig "rivals and surpasses espresso machines" because it can produce a better espresso than an arbitrary espresso machine in arbitrary hands.
Yeah, true. Not very meaningful though.
There's probably a McDonald's hamburger analogy here that's better, but, here we are.
My challenge to an ambituous reader looking to comment: make that one work too.
…McDonalds isn't bad either these days. It's just too salty.
A minor and pedantic point, but could we stop with the idea that smartphone cameras are somehow not 'real'? They are enormously sophisticated imaging devices that comprehensively outperform, for example, the 35mm film SLRs that many photographers were using in the 90s. An iPhone 14 enables you to take technically superior photos to the photos that professional photographers were taking only a couple of decades ago.
I'm not so sure about that. I'm impressed by what smartphone cameras do these days, but the Nikon F100 snuck into the 90s and beats the pants off my iPhone 14 Pro's camera, while still being very much in the hobbyist/prosumer price range.
Doing a quick side by side comparison of the 'selfie in the woods' shot with a shot of a person with a beard on 500px ( https://500px.com/photo/89633601/ge-by-nika-topuria ), the F100 shot has similar levels of detail in the facial hair, despite being taken from farther away and with what looks to be a wider angle lens by my eyes. You can pick out single strands of hair and bits of fuzz on the subject's clothing, etc., as well.
Bokeh is, of course, massively better on the F100. And I'll take basically any of the Fujia films over the color grading in the iPhone.
Meanwhile, basically every single concert photo on flickr for the f100 absolutely destroys the iPhone in quality ( https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=nikon%20f100%20concert )
Looking at landscape shots, it does appear you'll get more detail out of the iPhone camera ( https://500px.com/photo/10782613/silent-chorus-by-chris-froe... ), so I can't claim it's universally better, but I think the idea that phone cameras "comprehensively" outperform quality film SLRs from the 90s is false.
I guess you're just using the F100 as an example, but it's worth pointing out that the camera body is almost completely irrelevant to image quality with a 35mm film camera. It's all in the lens and the film. (Autofocus might be better on the F100 than on earlier SLRs.)
>And I'll take basically any of the Fujia films over the color grading in the iPhone.
You want the same color balance regardless of time of day or lighting? If you want to get accurate color balance with film you have to use color balancing filters to adjust for lighting and conditions.
There are tradeoffs, for sure. Even in that photo, the details you can see look better than the weird mess that iPhone 14 Pro produced at a concert the other night. I think that's largely due to whatever computational garbage is happening, but that's what the camera app gives me.
>I guess you're just using the F100 as an example, but it's worth pointing out that the camera body is almost completely irrelevant to image quality with a 35mm film camera. It's all in the lens and the film. (Autofocus might be better on the F100 than on earlier SLRs.)
Sure, though the body determines what lenses you can use, ergonomics, features like autofocus, etc. There was a lot of solid Nikkor glass available for the F100. We could also point out that the developing process is also important to quality, etc.
>You want the same color balance regardless of time of day or lighting? If you want to get accurate color balance with film you have to use color balancing filters to adjust for lighting and conditions.
I'm not sure how you get that from my statement. I think that the iPhone's color grading and computational stuff looks pretty awful, and think that Fuji made quite a few excellent films. I don't see where this says I wouldn't use a filter when needed for an SLR... I certainly make use of CPLs and NDs on my cameras today.
Though, I was misremembering when my go-to film was introduced - looks like the FujiColor NPH 400 came out in '02. I'm not sure what I was using prior to that as my standard film.
There’s lots of nice looking iPhone concert photos on Flickr. I just don’t see any slam dunk there, sorry. But hey there's obviously a subjective component here. If you prefer the results from the F100, that's just as legitimate as whatever preference I have.
I'm confused about the color stuff because digital basically lets you do whatever color grading you want, within reason. Getting the exact colors that you want from film is an arduous process if you aren’t scanning and using a digital color grading workflow. You either need a big set of color correcting filters or you need to do complex work in the darkroom. (Color wet printing is a HUGE pain in the butt.) Back when I shot film for real in the 90s and got the films developed and printed by regular cheap consumer labs, it was pot luck how the colors came out. I think a lot of people have a kind of false nostalgia for film's color rendition based on the results of a film+digital workflow that wasn't available to regular people in the 90s. There's a similar effect with grain, which looks quite different in scans compared to wet prints.
I really don’t agree, and honestly it depends on what categories you’re judging it on.
Film cameras from 20 years ago probably have better dynamic range than your phone. They probably have comparable resolution. You have a lot of options with lenses, so you can get lots of different looks.
Full frame size lets in lots of light. Photography is all about light - no amount of processing is going to make up for the size of a sensor on an iPhone. Let’s not even bring medium format into the discussion.
Hell, I’d say they could take photos that were technically superior to iphones over 100 years ago with tintypes and such. (Film was actually lower resolution than what came before it. ) There are lots of stunning portraiture, with a lot of clarity, from the start of photography that would be impossible to replicate with modern cameras.
The amount of light that’s let in depends entirely on the aperture diameter, not the size of the sensor. Sometimes you can use a larger diameter on a 35mm camera if you don’t need a lot of depth of field; but equally, modern digital sensors are usable at ISOs where film is not. The acid test here is night photography. If you want to take night portraits, you're going to have a far better time of it using a modern cell phone than a 35mm SLR with, say, an f1.8 lens. Even with a wide aperture lens and 400 ISO film, you'd be lucky to get a shutter speed faster than 1/15th of a second.
You can of course get more resolution with a larger format (I enjoy 4x5 myself). However, using medium or large format film cameras is a massive step down in terms of practicality and rules out entire genres of photography that phones excel at. I enjoy lugging my 4x5 film camera around and I very occasionally I get a nice photo out of it. Even when I do, the version I take on my phone is inferior in terms of resolution (not actually that important) but better in every other respect. You can drive yourself insane trying to get a 4x5 negative that doesn't have any uneven development or scratches.
The bottom line is that a modern cell phone is a vastly superior general purpose photographic tool to anything that was available in the 1990s. We all (in rich parts of the world) have access to cameras that professional photographers would have killed for a few decades ago. Thus, it annoys me when people compare these incredible devices unfavourably with "real cameras". It's pure gatekeeping.
Yep.
> The amount of light that’s let in depends entirely on the aperture diameter, not the size of the sensor.
That’s wrong. The size of the sensor, the aperture size (and of course the distance between the two) are all factors that together on this.
Saying the sensor size is the reason is also wrong, but the size of the sensor is a factor in the equation - and the sensor being so small forces manufacturers to go with wide open apertures. It’s not ideal for every shot.
> Even with a wide aperture lens and 400 ISO film
If I was shooting at night, why would I use 400 iso?
> You can drive yourself insane trying to get a 4x5 negative that doesn't have any uneven development or scratches.
Sounds like a good time for a hobbyist.
> Thus, it annoys me when people compare these incredible devices unfavourably with "real cameras". It's pure gatekeeping.
I’m not the one gatekeeping. Cell phone cameras are real cameras. They’re just different.
You say it’s good for general shooting, I’m talking about professional and hobbyist use.
I will say though, it’s just an interesting fact AFAICT - digital cameras are still behind - or are only just hitting parity - in terms of dynamic range.
https://petapixel.com/2019/05/02/film-vs-digital-this-is-how...
For a given angle of view, the amount of light incident on the sensor depends solely on the diameter of the aperture (the absolute diameter, not the f number). You can see this visually in the comment I made here: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=33426540
If you really want to think of it in terms of a combination of sensor size and f number, you can do so. But it's easier just to look at the size of the hole the light is going through – which not surprisingly, determines how much light ends up being collected, once you fix the angle of view.
>If I was shooting at night, why would I use 400 iso?
Because films with higher ISOs are unacceptably grainy for most uses.
The point is just that they have to balance DOF and brightness in their designs. It’s a multi-variable equation, and sensor size is one of the factors that constrains the options you have available all things considered.
Like you said
> once you fix the angle of view.
And of course they’re limited to relatively small apertures anyway.
> Because films with higher ISOs are unacceptably grainy for most uses.
Not in my experience! This is just nitpicking now.
We can keep getting more and more technical, but I think you understand how it works.
You’ve made your point. You don’t like gatekeeping. I’m not gatekeeping.
1.) My old Canon 80D. One time purchase, decently compact, short battery. Produces an okay-ish image with moderate effort.
2.) Renting something nicer than my Canon 80D. Bulky, requires lots of know-how to operate, expensive if I break it. Have to use special cords, cards, lenses, mounts, etc. Produces a top-of-the-line image with high effort.
3.) My iPhone 12 Mini. One time purchase, very compact, multi-hour-battery. Works indoors, outdoors, day or night. Plug-n-play, extremely user friendly. Produces a darn-good image with minimal effort.
I fully understand that it's not the best camera out there—but it seriously competes with everything up to fairly expensive professional cameras. I would not hesitate to use my iPhone for professional photography and videography if the client never found out about it (or was okay with it). At the end of the day, the ratio of quality to convenience it provides is simply higher than any other offering.
Or for people shooting at night. The sensors are too small on phones to gather enough light to look decent.
Newer cameras can even film video with nothing but moonlight.
The X100T is a great camera for the experience, but it kinda sucks for low-light. If you want good low-light performance, then image stabilization is a must and full-frame with a lens faster than F2 makes a huge difference too. In the end I can hand-hold comfortably at 1/4th of a second, and the camera itself takes in 4x more light, so low light performance is much better than on an X100T.
I can upload the pictures I'm talking about later today, if you want.
The point being made is, if Apple/Google can do that with a tiny sensor, why hasn't one of the remaining pro camera companies thrown money into similar work to be done on their cameras? I have an olympus e-om10 (I can't even remember the name format) and it has some filter settings, but nothing with the usability and quick results of Apple and Google regarding night shoots, etc.
DSLRs aren’t good if you want “point and click,” and that’s okay.
I disagree, that's my point. I completely understand your point that most DSLR users are pros who have tools to make things pop. What I'm suggesting is that there is a market for people who want really high quality photos that are achievable through larger lenses and sensor sizes, with the simplicity and intelligence in realtime of a phone camera.
Would it be a billion dollar market? Maybe not. But with "computational photography" being far from science fiction these days and with mobile chips being so powerful, it would seem like a strong way to stay relevant in a mainstream market to market a DSLR with phone-like usability.
Not sure about the current state of the art but I do know Fuji has had some pretty fancy in-camera processing for years now.
When I was more into photography however it seemed the 'culture' was more into post-processing with computer software for reasons.
And none of those products have nearly the sales of a smartphone to sustain R&D. Similar to how the headphone dongle of an iPhone is much cheaper and yet better quality than most audiophile equipment.
Or handheld HDR stacking but they're more able to deal with that.
For example, I really like live or motion photos.
Also, are you saying you could reproduce any of the on-phone stuff easily on your computer? I’m thinking about the astrophotography modes, portrait modes, live photos, and low light features.
Olympus and Panasonic can take 80–100MP shots by shifting the sensor a small amount and stitching multiple shots together. This can even be done handheld on the newer models. I imagine phones will get this eventually (maybe some do already).
Then there's all the subject detection auto focus available on basically every camera nowadays.
Too bad we’ll never know.
I haven’t had enough wifi to backup to iCloud and free up space to work in raw/48MP, but you can see the sorts of shots here with the stock app and 12MP.
http://instagram.com/isaacforman/
I am carrying a GoPro, an Osmo Pocket, an Insta360 Go 2, two drones and the two phones - the 14 is the one I used as a priority because the quality and options were so good.
For users less interested in photography, the regular iPhones have a more subtle camera array.
But optics can’t beat physics. Better cameras need more space for lenses and sensors. They could make the whole phone thicker, but haven’t done that yet.
The trajectory seems unsustainable. We’ll see what happens I guess.
The iPhone cameras are superb I think, but the "Apple Image Processing" renders stock camera photos useless for me. The watercolor smear and color smoothness that the article talks about. I like noise, don't smooth away the reality of life.
ProRAW is confusing because it is not RAW at all, instead it's an uncompressed image that has had a milder "Apple Image Processing" applied.
I've tested the iPhone 14 Pro, and the ProRAW files are too processed for me. They are not "reality". This is a philosophical concept. Do I want to capture what I see, or a smoothed watercolor ideal of what Apple think I should see?
I want a 48MP genuine RAW file that I can post-process in Lightroom or Photoshop. Here's looking forward to the iPhone 15 Pro!
It is really a shame that most new consumer tech is locked behind the doors of large corporations these days, that will keep the tech from reaching its true potential in a myriad of products.
Optics is weird. Either a device becomes a thing and then it's immediately a huge product, or the availability is straight up zero.
Pretty disappointing that a US$1000+ flagship device still can't batch capture at high resolution. Even entry-level DSLRs/mirrorless cameras can do 15+ fps in RAW mode.
I recently gave up my mirrorless in favor of my iPhone because the latter was just so much more convenient and largely good enough. I wonder if it is physically possible, however, for these smaller lens and sensor packages to ever get to the point of eliminating that phone camera smudge?
You can definitely take nice photos with it given the right variables and/or some creativity (as you could with a point-and-shoot a decade ago)... but don't be taken in by their marketing if photography is a goal for you.
o < aperture of a given diameter
/\
/ \
---- < small sensor (less area, more light per unit area)
/ \
/ \
-------- < large sensor (more area, less light per unit area)
If you compare typical shooting apertures for DLSRs and camera phones, they're not radically different. Say you are shooting a 50mm lens at f8 on a DSLR. That's an aperture of 6.25mm. A typical smartphone camera will have an aperture of around 3-4mm. In this scenario, then, the DLSR is getting about 3 times more light (or ~1.5 stops).Of course you can use much wider apertures on DSLRs, but their use is more limited given the shallow depth of field that results. If you're shooting e.g. landscapes, then you're probably not going to use apertures much wider than f8 anyway.
However, sensors get noise from different sources: and while you're right to point out that you might be up against photon shot noise, read noise goes down with pixel area: so, as long as pixel area scales with sensor area, and that scaling is performed by uniformly scaling the pixel, the larger sensor is intrinsically "a little bit better". Quoting shamelessly again from wikipedia [2]
> The read noise is the total of all the electronic noises in the conversion chain for the pixels in the sensor array. To compare it with photon noise, it must be referred back to its equivalent in photoelectrons, which requires the division of the noise measured in volts by the conversion gain of the pixel. This is given, for an active pixel sensor, by the voltage at the input (gate) of the read transistor divided by the charge which generates that voltage, CG = V_{rt}/Q_{rt}. This is the inverse of the capacitance of the read transistor gate (and the attached floating diffusion) since capacitance C = Q/V. Thus CG = 1/C_{rt}.
As capacitance is proportional to area, pixel area matters here – read noise is proportional to it linearly. In low-light conditions, read noise dominated most cellphone sensors (mostly for the above).
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etendue [2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format#Read_noise
Are smaller sensors also faster to read, given the lower capacitance? I wonder if that might give them an advantage when it comes to stacking and averaging images to reduce noise.
That's another good question and (as ever) the devil is in the engineering detail. I work with noise professionally (well, with signal in a low SNR environment, where the SNR per acquisition of interest is definitely << 1...) and those sorts of questions are good to ask but depend a lot on the exact noise stats: your approach requires that the average value of the noise is the same in both cases (read-out N times, digitally average; vs read-out once vs "analogue" averaging). In practice, because the distributions differ of different noise sources and images are positive semi-definite, I doubt this is true. The advantage of stacking is that helps with motion (a lot) and also helps with a finite dynamic range instrument (i.e. you don't blow it and can do gain compression).
> Are smaller sensors also faster to read, given the lower capacitance?
This Stanford paper with a model of a CMOS sensor [1] is rather old but quite a good explanation of where the readout time comes from; the capacitance across the active area is C_{pd} but the minimum read-out time is dominated by the capacitance of the readout bias, C_T, across the ADC line. As a result it scales by transistor feature size (fig 5) independent of the sensor area. Of course, as 'moar megapixelz' came along, this got higher and other designs were explored to mitigate it – a paper from Rochester [2] states that removing it buggers up the noise statistics unless you do "clever things" (which they describe in detail).
> That is a good point that I hadn't considered, thanks.
I should procrastinate more productively, but thank you!
[1] https://isl.stanford.edu/~abbas/group/papers_and_pub/tcas1.p... [2] https://sci-hub.se/10.1109/ISCAS.2008.4541803
Yeah, that was my assumption that I didn't articulate very clearly. For the same total exposure time, you wouldn't intuitively expect an average of multiple short exposures to be much different from a single long exposure (all depends on the mathematical details, as you say). But of course if you have a good alignment algorithm, you can often in practice use a much longer total exposure time. Then, to state the obvious, you can use a lower ISO and get less noise.
Is it the case that C_T is independent of C_{pd}? Looking at the (obviously rather idealized) circuit diagram, it seems odd that their values would be entirely independent in a realistic design. I guess I am basing my intuition on the simpler case of reading a single photodiode, where it is undoubtedly the case that the larger capacitance of a larger photodiode makes it more difficult to achieve a high bandwidth. Perhaps 'read time' as such is not the issue. But being able to scale up the individual photodiodes without sacrificing bandwidth seems a big magical.
Maybe the iPhone would do better in studio conditions, I don’t know.
But it’s a very tough problem.
The problem with the photo in the article is the structure of the background is quite apparent and all the details in the background have been multiplied into hexagons which is very distracting.
Directly comparable macro photograph of a moth. https://www.slrphotographyguide.com/images/butterflymacro.jp...
My mistake.
For example: A nice side benefit of a larger sensor is a bit more depth of field. At a 13mm full-frame equivalent, you really can’t expect too much subject separation, but this shot shows some nice blurry figures in the background.
For as long as I can remember, depth of field referred to the range of distance that is in focus. So more depth of field would mean more things in focus and less subject separation. And "distance to subject" and "field of view" equal, a larger sensor results in less depth of field.
But in the article it is clearly the opposite. This isn't the only place I've noticed the change in meaning either.
“ A nice side benefit of a larger sensor is a bit more depth of field effect”.
Eg referring to the visual effect of shallow DoF, not the DoF itself. Because the following sentence is unambiguous about his intent, I’m inclined to not be overly pedantic here and let us slide.
Maybe?
edit: it's fixed now
- Was it editorialized by the submitter?
- Was it changed by dang to de-clickbait it? (probably not in this case)
- Did one of HN's title filters remove some words?
I was sick of the smudgy look that happened often on the iPhone when the lighting wasn't perfect, and also there is a unique "look" that the Fuji mirrorless cameras spit out due to their x-trans sensor[1]. In my short 2 weeks with the camera I've had a ton of fun and gotten some great shots.
While no doubt the 14 pro is amazing, your statement isn't true.
Welcome to the hobby! The X-T20 is a great camera.
> also there is a unique "look" that the Fuji mirrorless cameras spit out due to their x-trans sensor[1]
The performance of the Fuji sensors aren't the main reason behind the processing, for sensor type comparison, there's a great article here:
https://medium.com/@nevermindhim/x-trans-vs-bayer-fantastic-...
Fuji cameras have built in post-processing that allows it to render images closer to film stock. Fuji has spent a lot of time refining their post-processing to match how it would like across their own film stock and really the only manufacturer that achieves such a great out-of-camera processed images.
If you are working and shooting in RAW, you'll find the output from Fuji when processing the RAWs yourself are not much to look at when you look at a RAW file in RAW processing tools like DarkTable etc. They're fairly similar really to any other camera mirrorless or DSLR. You'd really have to be pixel peeping most of the time to really see a noticeable difference (assuming lens etc. is very similar). When working in RAW, you can often get similar processed colours and images out of most cameras so really this shouldn't be a limting factor. From my Android phone, I can save RAWs and generally achieve similar colours and overall appearance etc. Although, due to the sensor size, it will be notably lower quality if you start pixel peeping and generally the colour depth is usually less to work with on mobile sensors.
Edit: Had the wrong link for the article.
Maybe one day I'll start messing around with the RAWs though!
I'd say aesthetically, it's very difficult to get decent background seperation on a phone. The practical reasons for using a camera body (I kind of consider phones to be real cameras) is to deliver quality images and aesthetics that are not achievable trivially on the phone. There's a point where trying to use a phone the same way as a camera body actually becomes really awkward from both a user interface perspective and very difficult based on capabilities.
It's actually a bit infuriating how camera bodies have not been modernizing very much. You won't find many camera bodies having a built in GPS directly, no camera security options (anti-theft, preventing photo access, automatic cloud backup), I haven't found a single camera manufacturer phone app (tethers with camera) that actually works decently with RAW workflows. There is a demand for post-processing in cameras too, not for every photographer, but, fuji users in particular tend to use that camera because of its post-processing capabilities.
GPS is actually a pain for professionals that work in teams too even when you aren't using GPS for positioning. If you're covering an event and don't have GPS, your camera bodies won't usually have decently synchronised clocks and if you're trying to get photos from multiple photographers and trying to make a second by second story, the metadata in the photos will lead to a very jumbled mess quickly. Meanwhile, most phones are accurately keeping the time so perfectly, that if you import images from them, they're typically very well ordered.
I wish I could just have a simple dumb phone with a calendar, GPS, and texting, and it doesn't cost 1400 bucks.