Power plug and socket (outlet) types
world-power-plugs.com
world-power-plugs.com
Also, French Type E has a round outline which won't fit into Type F sockets because of the non-round outline of Type F: There is a notch on the left and right side of the circle, making them incompatible, but the original article doesn't show that, the drawing of type F is simply wrong.
The plug that actually fits (and is common with most new appliances) is CEE 7/7, a hybrid of types E and F: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CEE_7_standard_AC_plugs_and_so...
All in all, the original article is a bad overview and you shouldn't rely on it, because it will be trouble at least in Type-E/F-land. If this is an indication of the overall data quality, avoid using this page for anything.
It's not just "common with new appliances", it's essentially universal.
I honestly can not remember ever seeing an actual Type E or Type F plug in the wild, only sockets.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country
The content that is there is also wrong and misleading.
[1] https://skeptics.stackexchange.com/questions/22572/are-briti...
> having a switch on the outlet makes it harder to debug if the bulb has blown…
No it doesn’t. It really doesn’t.
The other drawbacks have merit (though in 40 years of using electrical appliances I’ve never once had to worry about load balancing, but I’m willing to entertain that might be an issue for some people under niche circumstances). But the whole “a switch makes it harder to debug” argument is a really weak point.
And god help you if you step on a plug, because they always rest teeth up.
I spent 15 years in the UK, and despite the fact that I take good care of my stuff, I've never had so much trouble with electrical stuff.
My biggest complaint about U.K. plugs is that they’re not more universal. This leads to some international goods having really shitty adapters to slot their proprietary plug into a U.K. plug. Some of which are so bad that they completely undo all of the safety mechanisms built into the U.K. plug.
As for the complaint about stepping on a plug, I’ve done that maybe once in my entire life time. Frankly if you can’t be bothered to tidy up your electrical cables then it’s really your own fault and not the flaw in the design of the plug.
Also, of all the standards, it seems to me that UK plugs are the easiest to be sure are fully plugged in?
The CEE 7/7 (E & F hybrid) can not be shorted due to socket design. The Europlug, the British plug, the Italian plug and a few others can not be shorted because the prongs are covered in plastic.
It is actually another problem of the original article: It doesn't show and distinguish between recessed sockets and sockets that are available/allowed to be used in a flat form.
The recess also makes the mechanical mating far more robust and takes away mechanical wear from the prongs. So in contrast to flat designs like the British, where all the force rests on the (admittedly thicker) prongs, Type F avoids that problem by distributing most of the forces into the socket housing. Of course you need to replace that if cracked, but you avoid the danger of cracks in the prongs. Cracked or bent prongs are really a fire danger because if they don't immediately fall of (which is the good case), they might continue to be used, albeit with increased electrical resistance due to the crack. Resistance leads to overheating, overheating leads to fires. And no RCCB/SRCD or OCB will help you there. An AFDD might (if there is an arc, which might be 50% of cases), but nobody has those because they are fairly new, very expensive and only code-required in some special types of buildings (care facilities, hospitals and such).
That is why the Europlug has insulated prongs. It fits where Shuko doesn't.
You actually can not even build a non-recesed Shuko (grounded) socket, because the earth contacts are part of the housing.
Besides, none of what you propose will save someone who builds a male to male cable. Darwin awards have to be awarded.
“The 9-mm long insulated sleeves prevent accidental contact with a bare connector while the plug is partially inserted.”
(You repeat "is no true scotsman" in a reply, so it's not just a typo...)
I'm curious why American Samoa uses Type I (among 3 others) but on 60Hz/110V...
Also, some of the voltages are wrong; AU is listed as 230V, but the situation varies between states, and between nominal and actual.
In short; Wikipedia has more detail and accuracy.
Correct! That said, I don’t know how regulated it is since I have quite a few IEC cables without that insulation.
A couple of other things they also did away with are non-moulded plugs supplied with appliances new, and piggy-back plugs.
https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/
The collection of plugs and sockets focuses on the following two categories:
1. Plugs and sockets that are used for domestic purposes. That means 220-240 Volt / 10-16 Amp, or 100-125 Volt / 15-20 Amp devices that can be found in homes and offices, including, multi-plugs, adapter plugs, power cords that come with various types of appliance couplers.
2. Plugs and sockets for single phase heavy duty, or three- phase applications in homes and/or workshops. The three-phase section is restricted to 400 Volt / 32 Amp, or US: 250 Volt / 60 Amp, or 480 Volt / 30 Amp.
Both modern and classical material is represented in the collection.
You can also easily find the 'fully' universal wall sockets, but they get unreliable very quickly.
Plugs are anything goes and you get a free adapter with every appliance you buy.
Grounded EU plugs usually end up without ground.
Aircon use a whole other plug with ground, but there's a good chance the electrician didn't actually wire up the ground.
https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/CH/CH-T1_plug.jpg
That was a bad idea because it was easy to get shocked.
Just curious