ESNI is not implemented yet on any website. And there is no software support except beta versions of Chrome/Edge and you have to manually toggle flags in dev mode.
All SNIs are passed as plain text to your ISP/VPN, even with DoH/TLS secure DNS enabled.
No. ESNI is an later-created extension to TLS 1.3
you'll always be leaking it to whoever you are sending your query to.