Does somebody have a good resource for the state of the USB-C ecosystem? How to determine which cables support what features, which icons mean what, etc.
Does somebody have a good resource for the state of the USB-C ecosystem? How to determine which cables support what features, which icons mean what, etc.
We have 100W (so 20V at 5A), we will have 240W (48V at 5A).
Gauge doesn't change, since current stays the same
[1] https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/478607/feeli...
[2] https://www.dell.com/en-us/blog/notebook-tingle-sensation-wh...
If you're feeling "tingling sensation" your protection caps are fucked Mr. EE
Reactance of a typical Y capcaitor at 50Hz is in the range of single unit MOhm so even that does not cross perception thresholds of most individuals even at 230 V. But it may for some, I guess.
I = V/R
This means that as voltage increases with a given fixed amount of power, current decreases. Indeed, a watt is a measurement of power calculated by multiplying current in amps by potential in volts.
Joule's equation of heating says that the power (P) lost to heat in a circuit is equal to current (I) squared, multiplied by resistance (R).
P = I^2R
Thus, increasing voltage reduces heat generated over a given conductor.
That's why you need an e-marked cable to be able to do that.
It’s very possible to vaporize a wire with just a few volts with enough amps!
The safety issue with voltage is due to the need for thicker insulation to avoid shorts, but the difference for 5V vs 48v isn’t that much.
It’s possible to carry a lot more power for the same amps (aka same wire ampacity) by upping the voltage, as Watts=amps*volts
That is why interstate power transmission goes up to millions of volts.
Most electrical codes also have carve outs for ‘low voltage’ as it’s tedious to try to regulate all the various ‘not dangerous’ stuff, which is considered 48 volts and below, which is why it’s limited to 48v. It’s considered ‘not dangerous’ due to the resistance/insulation of human skin making it a bit harder to kill your self with it, but with some work, still possible. It doesn’t take much amperage, if you’re trying - USB 2.0 has more than enough.
AC needs thicker insulation vs DC, but that is due to the peak of the AC waveform being much higher than the nominal voltage. 170V for ‘120V’ AC, for instance.
Voltage is largely irrelevant
Have a look at the gauge of mains wires (~14-22 AWG) compared to what you'd put on a serious 12V-48V battery (2-8 AWG)