Many indoor air quality sensor products are a scam
halestrom.net
halestrom.net
I remember looking around for a Radon sensor for way too long. An electronic device, a litmus-like strip test, some analog crystal ball -- hell a mail-in lab kit bag of carbon -- but they all seemed inaccurate. The few people that "bought two" always showed heavy variance while the majority that bought and got a number *loved it*. Even buying two that agree often just means the products are consistently and predictably wrong, but most products don't even check this box ffs.
Reviewers that try and apples-to-apples all products by comparing cost, size, advertised features and ergonomics are doing no better than you or I opening up a package and appraising it. For awhile this Google dev was putting up extremely detailed amazon reviews for USBC cables based on their purported features v. reality and it was wonderful, but tucked away and undiscoverable.
The world needs multiple parties providing unbiased in-depth reviews, but there's very little will to pay for even one group to do something like this. Ironically, paying for information in the information age seems almost comical to today's consumers and while there's demand for good information, no one's willing to open their wallets. Labdoor moved from subscription-only memberships to "certified products" and affiliate links because everyone wants to know what's in their multivitamin, but no one wants to pay for an indepth review. We aren't cultivating a supply-side that works for us, but against us.
The result of this is shilling and fake reviews running wild. I mean hell, consumers will buy a product knowing full well they might get a shoddy knock off and yet it's $5 less and they can get it tomorrow so they'll roll the dice. Sadly, we don't live in a world where people are intimately concerned with quality and accuracy in their purchases.
edit: USBC not USB3
Unless you're buying every product on the market and load testing them in your garage, some folks do a lot better than that (e.g. project farm, or torque test channel).
But it clearly requires time and passion, and serious rigs for some of the tests (not everybody has a Skidmore lying around).
Google tightening the belt on Youtube monetization is probably, strangely, the best thing that could have happened to mostly-direct payments to content creators. Patreon and the like have made viewers at least somewhat more willing to pay out to access content. On the flip side, it seems to have also led to an explosion of more biased reviewers pushing their own discount codes and affiliate links to make up the difference.
There's a cultural misalignment somewhere. Journalism still hasn't cracked the nut nor has scientific peer review. Information curation and verification isn't cheap regardless of how much we'd like it to be so.
It's of slightly better quality than the usual youtube comparisons.
Channels like his are wildly popular because corporations prefer inexpert entertainers aka "influencers" and "creators" over product/market experts, so they shower the popular ones with free shit to "review."
This is one reason you see e-bike companies heavily courting the tech press; the tech press know fuck-all about what to look for in a bicycle, so for example, they don't notice that the bike has Chinesium bearings that won't survive being ridden in the rain, terrible no-name tires with little flat protection and high rolling resistance, and brakes made of chewing gum that perform much worse than proper offerings from major brands.
He also explicitly buys all products with his own money (some by way of viewers contributing, of course) and products are sourced from what folks in the comments are asking for.
But his results are authoritative as the bar is low.
He's smart enough to know that...
> Channels like his are wildly popular because corporations prefer inexpert entertainers aka "influencers" and "creators" over product/market experts, so they shower the popular ones with free shit to "review."
Does not apply in this case.
Also he does not disclose that his TDS measuring device is actually bundled with one of the devices he is testing. Should have used a third party tool to verify that it is giving an accurate reading instead of a unit bundled with one of the water filters as a marketing ploy. It gives some doubt as to how seriously he takes his other tests. These are the things you miss if you don't actually know any better(I assume the majority of his audience have not looked into what makes good water filtration before watching his video).
Nevertheless, the fact that he is really the only one doing these kinds of tests is enough to give him some sort of super reviewer credibility.
[0] https://linustechtips.com/topic/1387053-i-spent-a-thousand-d...
There’s no real proof anything actually works for many products.
> Any of them are great, except if they come from Rubiks
I still think being defeatist about this isn't helpful. More information, even if it's not complete and timeless is good. I think if this kind of information proliferated too, companies would have a disincentive to update what is loved, works and isn't broken.
Also, I realize the chip shortage is a real issue and has had genuine effects... still companies will find any external boogie man for why their products should get weaker, their turn around times longer and their products' sticker prices higher.
You can't forget the "but verify" part of "Trust but verify"
Similarly, it's been a long time since the Wham-O Frisbee (r) was the preferred choice for most people who use throwing discs regularly.
Project Farm has unsponsored empirical comparative reviews of multiple products for the same use. He has affiliate links for every product tested so he makes commission no matter which one you buy. Compare this to a one-at-a-time reviewer where the reviewer is motivated to sell each product as much as possible.
The only perverse incentives are (1) he makes more if you buy the more expensive one and (2) he doesn't make money from free/DIY solutions. 1 would require knowing the market really well and faking tests on video. W.r.t. 2 he's demonstrated good faith by including DIY and vintage options.
But it’s better than nothing. AvE has some “destructive reviews” that can also be entertaining.
My dad has garbage political opinions, and is generally what I would call a low information voter who is swayed more by advertising than vote record, but he's still a very talented general contractor who can build anything and knows his stuff.
His valentine's days specials are especially entertaining.
Consumer Reports sometimes overindexes to things I don't care about ("complicated technology"), but they usually put in the work and break it down well.
Here's Raymond Chen in 2017 explaining it [1]:
To over-index on an attribute means to give that attribute too much prominence in a discussion or analysis.
Also fun to note that Wictionary [2] does not mention this meaning at all, instead saying it means to index out of bounds in an array which given the technical usage sphere of the word is kind of amusing.
[1]: https://devblogs.microsoft.com/oldnewthing/20171226-00/?p=97...
I wouldn't be surprised if some of their reviewers were getting paid on the side for their recommendations (it seemed like it might've been freelanced out reading some of the reviews).
I've seen some signs that they might be getting better... let's hope.
But Consumer Reports has always been great for me.
This seems to be Amazon's main unspoken strategy behind promoting positive reviews... many people want to be helpful and provide a review of a product that they purchased. That's great, but the problem is that most people are thoroughly unqualified to review things: "I took it out of the box and turned it on, five stars!"
(And I'm not even going to mention Vine Voice or whatever it is called, these are reviews you should ALWAYS ignore because they are given free products in exchange for ostensibly unbiased but implicitly biased reviews.)
Lots of reviewers talk about the delivery, how Amazon Prime bungled the return or even a completely different product; all completely unrelated to the actual features of the product you'll be buying. Pair that with how Amazon allows companies to put completely different products on the same offering with "variants" that are again abused by companies to transfer reviews from a well received product onto a poorly received one. Most users just look at the five start v. one star ratio in the end anyway so an electrician going over a wire gets the same final weight as someone that confusingly put a question in the review box.
I've put up good quality critical reviews too and had them silently removed. Amazon may be an okay place for getting an item, but too many people use it as a discovery and curation vehicle and that's where the manipulation starts and ends. I get better product recommendations looking almost anywhere else than the Amazon search box.
I got invited to join one of these groups from a friend and got tons of free products on Amazon this way. I remember getting a free home security system that was like $500 or $600. I never even took it out of the box, just re-sold it on Facebook Marketplace.
Eventually I left the group because I felt bad leaving these good reviews when some of the products were absolutely garbage. It's an unfortunate situation for the sellers though too; people don't buy products on Amazon that don't have reviews. So if a seller can't bootstrap a few good reviews early on then they won't ever start making real sales.
My theory is that many people are "proud" to have bought something, either for its novelty or because they managed to get the whatever for a lowish price/discount, or - on the opposite - because they already spent an awful amount of money so it must be exceptional, or because they read somewhere that the thing is exceptionally good.
Short of the thing completely not working, they are (in good faith) convinced that they got the best and talk endlessly on how good it is, and how nothing else is as good.
Once upon a time it was typical of many self-appointed Hi-Fi experts but in more recent years I have seen the same behaviour in many other cases, from vacuum cleaners to Tv's.
To be fair, if you are buying from Amazon, this is helpful information.
Reviews are all like 'Such an improvement compared to my 10 year old 30 inch plasma 720p TV' or 'noce, it has Netflix'!
Not a single review mentioned that Android TV takes like 3 seconds to respond to any buttonpress on the remote because it's running a 8 year old ARMv7 CPU, basically like the first raspberri pi.
https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-home-air-qua...
I bought one of their prior recommendations, the "Kaiterra Laser Egg+ Chemical", and as far as I could tell it did the "TVOC-to-CO2" lookup table conversion mentioned in this article, and so it would give CO2 readings that were inconsistent with same-branded CO2 sensor ("Kaiterra Laser Egg+ CO2"). WireCutter seem to have since updated the recommendation to something with a different type of sensor.
You might say, well, +/-25% sucks. You wouldn't accept a thermometer or pressure sensor which read +/-25%. And you are right, it does suck, but then try to design a radon sensor with a sensitivity of more than a few counts/hour per pCi/L but which is also affordable... you could spend $10k+ and get an Alphaguard which has a huge sensitivity and thus very little statistical uncertainty, or spend $25 on a charcoal kit which is +/-50% if you are lucky, or any of the options in between. If you buy a detector which does not explicitly list the sensitivity in the specs, you can be sure it absolutely sucks.
Because many detectors are measuring in single counts per hour, you have to measure over many hours (usually 48) just to get enough statistics to make a decent estimate of the radon level. Decent in this case being +/-10 to 25%. Then you add other sources of error like temperature, humidity, air speed, etc. If the sensitivity is absolutely abysmal, you may need to measure for weeks or months to get enough counts to know what your radon level is to +/-10%.
Often the best bang for your buck in radon measurements is to hire someone who has a really nice radon measurement system for a short term measurement. However, if your radon level changes over time then you get a good snapshot only of whats going on right then. For most homes this isn't a problem, but occasionally you run into a situation like one guy I remember whose well system had radon saturated water, so his radon was fine except when the shower was on.
I feel like there might be more willingness to pay for this sort of stuff if people knew that they are being straight up lied to. Many people have a sort of vague "yeah probably the company is doing something scummy" attitude, but, at least in my experience, people still mostly trust that their devices do what they explicitly promise to do. Buying a TVOC sensor that doesn't actually measure TVOC at all somehow feels too outrageous to be true.
Here's one marketer's belief about its value in 2022: "at this point, I believe the only people who still think the BBB means something are the older generation. And business owners seem to pursue BBB accreditation mainly so they can slap a logo seal on their site." - https://www.blogmarketingacademy.com/better-business-bureau/
(And you are right, that they don't do a good job of what they are ostensibly trying to do.)
> It's because we used to regulate against the ability to sell something which didn't do the main task it purported to do.
If someone lies about what the product can do, can't you just sue them for fraud or so? (Do a class action lawsuit, if the individual damages are too small.)
This flow has been so detoothed its hardly an inconvenience for F500s in most cases
Its temperature sensor is within a couple degrees of my nest's remote sensor.
My Amazon vo2 sensor can tell if I turned my kitchen fan on to a sufficient level to clear out whatever I am cooking.
Lots of sensors don't need to be precise, they just need to indicate if some action needs to be taken.
e.g. If there is a fire, I just need the alarm to go off, I don't care how hot the fire is.
Windows have been open with fans running for a while (~430)
Windows have been closed for a short time (~700)
Windows have been closed for a long time (~1200)
Windows have been closed and someone has been cooking downstairs on the unvented gas stove (~4000)
Most of the store-bought devices just beep if too high etc, but having a visible graph certainly tells you if it is measuring anything at all, and if you need to crack open a window or blow out the novel candle you just bought from the dollar store.
Which one?
It's the other way around, usually. CO₂ is more typically the estimated value, since its direct detection involves a relatively expensive NDIR value. VOCs as a category need some sort of modeling and estimation, but sensors can go fairly far by directly measuring a few species (hydrogen, for example), and hoping.
I did look into the AirGradient when geerlingguy put out a video about it but they were out of stock at the time. It looks like there might be a new version but that may be something worth looking at.
I tried the Vitalight CO2s but the readings were all over the place despite recalibration with 2 devices side by side. Ended up returning these. Do not recommend.
[0] https://community.bosch-sensortec.com/t5/Knowledge-base/BME2...
And my daughter keeps trying to see if flatulence will actually drop the air quality depending on proximity.
I’ve been happy with these units so far after six months.
You are giving them a lot of credit when it seems that "The numbers produced are obviously very very wrong" is the headline (by a large margin).
Seems like a cool company, and have seen things like forest fires, using a gas stove, and burning things while cooking all correlate with readings. In particular I noticed that 3am in my bedroom has a pretty big CO2 spike. I also monitored radon before, during, and after some radon mitigation.
I really like that at least some of their units allow exporting their data to graphana, without any cloud involvment. I'm unsure if the view plus does the same though.
So for the HN crowd, lots of sensors, can use a raspberry pi as a gateway, your phone, or a turn key view plus. Graphana support is a big plus and you don't have to use any cloud service if you don't want to.
I do wish they had a carbon monoxide sensor.
The fact that they have a good API made them worth the fairly steep entry price.
The pressure is constantly less than 1000 hPa (after 1 year of having the device, not once was higher (I live at 100 m msl) so it must be higher. When I reported the problem, the technical support said "we use Bosch Sensors, so it is impossible that they are wrong".
Not only the service is trash, but also the whole interface, which requires permanent internet connection. You can access from your phone the status of the air at your home from anywhere in the world... my fear is if anybody else also can. Notably, after 1 year, there was no SW update... I really doubt the device is safe.
I only have it because of Radon measurements. And I hope they are at least more or less ok.
We launched our indoor air quality monitor AirGradient ONE at the beginning of this year. We measure PM, CO2, TVOCs, temperature and humidity. When we started the development we would have never thought that achieving an accurate temperature measurement was by far the most difficult thing.
It took us 8 hardware iterations to get it right! We experienced with different enclsoure shapes, orientations and PCBs (component placement).
Our experience is similar to the author of this article:
Your biggest enemy is internal heat produced by active components, mainly the MCU but also by other sensors like the PM sensor and CO2 (NDIR).
How we solved it:
1) Minimize heat from energy by using components that have low energy consumption and make extensive use of sleep functions of the MCU as well as sensor components (e.g. PM sensors can be put to sleep).
2) Make use of physics. Our monitor is wall mounted and uses the convection mechanism. So nearly all components that heat up like LEDs, MCU etc. are located at the very top inside the enclosure. Optimize the vents at the top and bottom of the enclosure and create an unobstructed air flow through the enclosure based on natural convection.
3) Plan for enough space. To get temperature right, you need a lot of air around the temperature sensor that is free from radiation from other heat sources. So we specifically designed the PCB to have the temperature sensor at a 'finger' at the bottom with a lot of space to other components and ensured there is a good air flow around.
If you are interested to see our design, have a look at our open-source, open-hardware DIY Pro monitor [1].
We integrated a lot of the things we learned designing the commercial monitor mentioned above into these build instructions [2] that allow you to build your own highly accurate monitor and then also be able to change the firmware and adjust to your needs. In fact, our kit contains exactly the same plastic injected enclosure we use for our commercial monitor (but you can also just 3D print the one from the build instructions and get the other parts by yourself).
[1] https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/kits/ [2] https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/instructions/di...
In our journey to get the temperature right, we made extensive use of thermal imaging and compared our prototypes with competitors.
The images showed that one of these sensors got extremely hot during operation but the temperature was nearly identical to the real ambient temperature. We couldn't believe this.
So we made a test and put a strong fan onto this sensor. The temperature then dropped by more than two degrees Celcius BELOW ambient which showed clearly that they made a software offset.
It can be debated if such an offset is a legitimate design choice (and I personally believe it has a lot of risks) but it was something we wanted to avoid in our design.
Sensors hanging off wires may look ugly, but it has benefits.
I'm looking at your build kits which are pretty cool. I'd probably get the "PRO Pre-soldered" kit. Couple questions about them:
> PCB has slots for TVOC, pressure or other sensors (sensors not included)
Do you sell these sensors separately? or have recommendations on sensors you trust and work with this kit? Your AirGradient One comes with TVOC sensing built in so you definitely have something
> 24 months AirGradient data platform (or connect it to your own server, e.g. home assistant)
Can I use the device without connecting to a server?
I live in an area prone to frequent fog for many months out of the year.
I learned that the fog will thoroughly disrupt the accuracy of pm2.5 sensors.
After some research I found that running the air through a heated pitot or similar before taking a measurement will almost entirely correct this for somewhat obvious reasons; the fog is evaporated.
As far as I can tell, none of the mid to high range weather stations have such a system and they will all be corrupted by a sight fog.
I’ve resigned myself to making one… Does such a sensor even exist?
Very sad reality, from clothes to electronics. One wonders whether this run for cheaper builds while remaining relatively conservative in prices, unrestrained by a - missing - critical mass of discerning, demanding consumers, will end through some fading of the economic causes that triggered it. Or if this culturally polluting trend will stick now that it has been installed as a "normalcy".
There is the AirGradient DIY but I don't like the design, I'm worried about temperature accuracy and response time and I wish it was pluggable into a wall plug.
In addition I want to buy an outdoor water-proof temperature and humidity sensor running on a battery and communicating over WiFi or BT. Also can't find anything.
These have worked well for us, they don't do pm2.5 but we have other sensors for that.
Indeed! Although it seems the point of the article is that while these are very basic measurements, building the technology to reliably provide correct readings, especially from the same board/housing as a WiFi board, is not trivial. Sure, it's not as difficult as more complex or obscure devices, but it is a lot more than cut & paste some sensors onto a board with some WiFi & slap it in a box... which seems to be the usual level of effort
Does anyone know where we could get such devices that 1) are actually designed to be reliable, and 2) don't need to exfiltrate information to the seller's servers in order for us to access it?
In case you're not aware, the kit was upgraded this year to move the temperature sensor a little further away from heat sources, they now bundle enclosures with the kit (if requested), and also sell [0] pre-soldered kits.
[1] https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/instructions/
If you don't want it to be "connected," try a TemTop P1000. I've torn one apart, and I have it in my office right now - it seems to do what it says on the tin sanely. Temperature, humidity, PM2.5, PM10, and CO2 levels. I have another TemTop unit and they generally agree within some reasonable margin of error, and they do seem to independently measure things like VOC vs CO2 - I can see one rise without the other, depending on what I'm doing.
It doesn't have pressure, though.
https://www.sevarg.net/2021/08/28/temtop-air-quality-sensors...
That's because it's $$$$. CO2 is hard to measure (it's inert!), and only recently advances in NDIR allow us to measure it directly. Those are still $50, and that's just component cost.
PM2.5 is also around $50 for decent parts.
Another $10 for T/H/P. Another $20 for cheapest LCD you can find.
Ok, so we are up to $130, but now you gotta pay for manufacturing ($$$), PCB, hardware development, calibration, testing, mechanical design... Probably $200-$300 total depending on quantity.
So, let's say you can make the whole device for $250 just in costs. Now you gotta add software (BT\Wifi code is not fun!), shipping, overhead, profits. So, you gotta sell this thing for $350+.
Would you buy one for $350?
https://www.omega.com/en-us/test-inspection/air-soil-liquid-...
Something like: https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/instructions/di...
I have bought all the parts, haven't had the time to assemble it yet.
As the article mentions, there is substantial sensor self-heating. (The SCD30 uses a little incandescent bulb to produce 4.26um light, and the whole package draws 375mW during measurement) It wants to be very well ventilated, or polled very infrequently, in order to remain anywhere near ambient.
Claims to be 3.3V compatible, (Rpi voltage) which I haven't verified, since I ran it off an Arduino. (Which is 5V)
From the Seeed docs: "When activated for the first time a period of minimum 7 days is needed so that the algorithm can find its initial parameter set for ASC. The sensor has to be exposed to fresh air for at least 1 hour every day."
Disregard that entirely. When I tried to use the built in autocalibrate, it would set the floor value to 390ppm at some random time of day, not even close to diurnal minimum. Not to mention outside air is more like 420ppm now. (The problem with burning a minimum CO2 number into ROM is that the number is always going up...) I just disabled autocalibrate, stuck it outside for an hour, and hardcoded an offset in user code.
The Seeed carrier board puts an ornamental cover over the sensor to make it look prettier. You can remove it if you want to reduce self-heating.
The SCD30 uses i2c address 0x61, so it should coexist on the same bus as the BME280 temperature sensor, (0x76) if you want more accurate room temp: https://www.seeedstudio.com/Grove-BME280-Environmental-Senso... (Seeed will not warn about address incompatibilities during checkout if you buy two sensors with the same address. Ask me how I know.) If you enjoy random number generators, you can also pick up one of the bad hot-wire "air quality" sensors that GP dislikes. https://www.seeedstudio.com/Grove-Air-Quality-Sensor-v1-3-Ar...
Disclosure, I used to work for a company that resold all this stuff, before it was bankrupted by the semiconductor crisis.
[1] https://kestrelmeters.com/products/kestrel-fire-weather-drop
So in other words, while your outside air may be quite good such that it doesn't negatively affect your indoor air quality, that does not at all suggest that your indoor air quality will be good.
My place is not at all airtight, but I am skeptical that the outdoors air has this degree of lint fibers floating around at all times.
https://airsenseur.org/website/airsenseur-air-quality-monito...
From what I’m reading, the fact that several sensors measure almost exactly the same values when mounted next to each other, is actually a good sign, correct?
At the bottom of the product page [1] they have an explosion graphic rendering which looks like (assuming it is somewhat correct) the sensor is below other chips and moved away from them. The sensor also seems to be shielded by having a separate area of it's own in the plastic enclosure.
I haven't tested them yet but I think they should do fine, by the criteria of the article.
-
[1]: https://www.aqara.com/us/temperature_humidity_sensor.html
While we're on the topic: Shamless plug for a PurpleAir clone I made last year that uses the same sensors but at half the cost (and keeps all of the data within your LAN): https://github.com/shanet/ClearAir and https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adafruit-industri...
And we also have an example of the problem of air circulation. We have a wireless thermometer (a quick check if it's cool enough to open the windows) that's in a weather enclosure that admits a decent amount of air and sitting under a tree (keeping it out of the sun and away from big masses of concrete--it's simply impossible to properly place it in our yard) and it can be up to two degrees off because of lag.
https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/shop/
also previously on HN:
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=28457135
> Monitoring my home's air quality (CO2, PM2.5, Temp/Humidity) with AirGradient's DIY sensor September 8, 2021
> A few months ago, I found this Hacker News post about the AirGradient DIY Air Quality Monitor. I had already been considering buying an AirThings Wave Plus sensor to monitor my home's CO2 levels, but the high price and limited 'ownership' of the data coming from it turned me off.
also
> AirGradient: DIY Air Quality Monitoring with Open-Source Hardware & Firmware
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=27124671
https://www.airgradient.com/open-airgradient/instructions/di...
I remember similar thing with some UVC sensors, they just returned expected UVC based on UVA level
Humidity/pressure/temperature are actually the three measurements that probably aren't a scam. The sensor chips you can get are generally well-calibrated and do what they say. Do read the datasheet, though: there are lots of ways you can screw them up (soldering them wrong, for example).
The CO2, VOC and particulate sensors seem to be absolute snake oil, though. I have yet to buy any device that "senses" these that has any correlation to anything resembling reality. Which seems kind of stupid because CO2 and particulate sensors shouldn't be that difficult. Volatile organics, though, tend to be difficult as they have a lot of confounding factors.
I'd really love to have a recommendation for something that's been validated that isn't $10K+.
- https://new.siemens.com/global/en/products/buildings/hvac/se...
- https://buildings.honeywell.com/us/en/brands/our-brands/bms/...
Granted, they're not meant for standalone use but at least you're not wondering whether the vendor is reputable or whether the sensor does what it says it does. For example, at a casual glance, the Siemens QPA2002D VOC and CO2 sensor seems to be available for <$500 and comes with a fairly comprehensive datasheet.
It's the time and money of testing that is usually being skipped, not the engineering itself. (Although many manufacturers might sacrifice quality to save the cost of what you describe anyway :( )
Consumer Reports meets iFixit meets Twitch hybrid would be awesome. Plus the objective repeatability of Jepsen and TechEmpower.
Some magical combination of authenticity, expertise, tenacity and personal narrative.
As a noob DIY remodeler, I learned SO MUCH from channels like Project Farm, Matt Risling's The Build Show, Vancouver Carpenter, and others.
For whatever reason, I didn't get nearly as much from content tailored to prior mediums, like This Old House and misc handy person magazines. (Probably some McLuhanian "medium is the message" insight applies...)
If you say your product does a thing, and it definitely does NOT do that thing (but you fully believe it does that thing perhaps on the basis of believing really really really hard), and you sell it on the basis of that belief, especially when said belief is easily disproven with a tiny bit of due diligence…
under those conditions I think it’s perfectly reasonable to call it a scam. Especially colloquially, when intent is near impossible to know, and the average consumer does not have the means to launch an investigation to prove intent.
The classic example are scales, you can buy scales and weigh yourself on them and they might not be 100% accurate. But you can still sell a product that claims you can weigh yourself. Should we require standards that require companies to provide a +/- variance against exact measurements? Some products do such as power meters.
If a product is outside of a particular variance then could we call those scam products?
At least the CO2 says 410 when set outdoors, but the temperature it varies by a few degrees (Celcius). The humidity is even worse, I don't even bother looking at that number anymore.
So I disconnected it, bought a $70 device that measures everything pretty accurately and am happy ever since.
I live in a remote spot in the country in Ireland. I am surrounded by dairy farms (fields of grass with cows) I always have my windows open, all day all year round, though my room is super messy. People who know about this stuff, do you reckon I have good air quality?
I can't seem to find a reasonably priced one that is actually accurate.
TOC is a bit of a mystery, it can probably detect relative change. I've used them in a lab to monitor solvent vapor and you can detect changes, hard to quantify but don't need to most of the time.
SCD4x series are photoacoustic rather than NDIR, but they are true CO2 sensors and seem to work rather well given the size.
I certainly won't rely on them to tell me if i actually have TVOC or HCHO issues. And i wish they had SD card slots that stored the values, like my 8 remote temp/humidity sensors and their base station.
I was expecting them to have at least 10x that error!
What devices are people using that aren't a _complete_ sham?
Lots of ventilation holes on 5 sides, a screen you can read from 8m away. Agrees (within tolerance) of a nearby temp/humid sensor. CO2 and VOC are independent. CO2 alone goes up during the day if I don't crack a window, VOC varies with how hot and close beverages are. PMs/VOC are mostly a function of how badly my cooking went in the adjacent kitchen :)
I can't be certain about absolute accuracy of values, temp/humid are good, CO2 seems plausible: low is 400ppm, I start to get cranky while working by about 1200ppm.
It's wifi (Tuya) if you want, the screen and controls alone are fine though. It also has RS485 and a bunch of relays to drive A/C, Fan, (de)humdifier too.
There's a Spanish report that links Kkmoon/Kecheer/Curconsa/Aprotii device vendors:
F. Villanueva, E. Jiménez, J. M. Felisi, T. Garrido, J. L. Jiménez, M. Ródenas, and A. Muñoz. Guide about affordable CO2 detectors for COVID-19 Prevention, versión 1.4, 17/04/2021. https://bit.ly/monitorsCO2
HTH.
Can anybody tell me how reliable and accurate this sensor is?
They look pretty, though.
Indoor air quality? Open a window. airnow.gov
Edit: also, that «whatever difference» clashes pretty heavily with
> It is hilariously easy to inadvertently design a device that measures temperature with an error of 5degC, humidity error of 50% and pressure error of equivalent to 1km in altitude
It is also difficult to avoid noting that we "look into things" for many reasons and also indirect gains; that there exist "silent killers" and, more importantly to some, silent harmers; that some "principle of inquiry" (of "knowing the world", of testing, like Galileo's "Saggiatore") and a "principle of wanting to get things done properly" are there...