I tried to look at the preceeding article mentioned to go deeper on this but it is paywalled. I can't say for sure but this article has wiffs of the quasi-mysticism that surrounds F&B worship of successful professional F&B proprietors. And I'm getting a touch of the worst brand yet which is mixing F&B business metaphorically with startup brain.
So for example, almost all of these articles will talk about how some "culture" is "different". They'll enumerate all the quirky training processes that "bond" the teams together.
But in the end there are a few realities. Most people that have very professional service in F&B pay them more and give them better benefits. They can afford this because they work in niches of F&B service that allow for higher margins. Unless you can move your operations into something higher margin, you can't afford these pay and benefits. And if you do, someone else will fill your low margin hole and end up asking themselves the same questions. Namely, why do my employees hate me? I exploit them. Why do I exploit them? The margins demand it.
The other and much more insidious way that F&B luminaries provide superior service is by exploiting professionalized workers' egos. Essentially, working in a fancy restaurant is very clouty. A lot of people end up working in cutting edge or high end F&B while still earning very marginally improved wages because they believe in the place they work. In my opinion this is not good. This is asking people to start making real personal sacrifices for something they will never actually own, something that will give them nothing the day it slides from under their feet.
The vast majority of F&B is so low margin that I actually think the only conceivable way to pay people a livable wage, outside of high margin niches, is to be unrpofitble. Essentially, you have to distribute the profits to the workers. And the problem here becomes that scale is often the only way to secure yourself in the industry, yet getting capital invested into your explicitly profitless venture is unlikely.
I really wish I could read the other article because maybe I'm preaching to the choir but in the end I'd say, be very cautious about glorify anyone in the F&B business.