An enthusiast’s deep dive into mechanical keyboard switches
switchandclick.com
switchandclick.com
2. Then install a Hasu FC660C Controller, and start customizing the firmware. Typing, like sex, is far more about software than hardware.
3. Now prepare yourself for the split/ergo keyboard advocates. They have a point if your hands move. If you rearrange your layout so pretty much anything is nearly home row, but a tap-hold one-finger-each-hand chord, your hands don't move.
Typing is bimodal. Sometimes you're in the saddle, hard at work. Sometimes you're reaching in to find "pause" with a glass of wine in the other hand. A conventional keyboard is handy for reaching in, even if it's secretly a chording keyboard along home row.
I do have quite fond memories of various IBM Model M keyboards when I was younger but for now I'm quite happy with Topre.
Would be curious to hear of people having been in a similar situation that ultimately found another switch they prefer over Topre.
Buckling springs: I stockpiled IBM Model M back when it wasn't a thing and used that for years. Alps. Cherry MXes. Then I tried a board with Topre switch and since then I'm happily camping with my HHKB Pro JP (japanese).
I'd try these fancy ergonomic / self made keyboards but only the day they'll start making them with Topre switches.
That's my "hack": seen that I couldn't get any custom keyboard with Topre switches, I picked the next best thing to me... A japanese Topre keyboard. Now the funny thing is: despite having some japanese family, I don't speak japanese at all (well, ok, I know the names of a few animals and know the hiraganas but that's it).
I really only picked a japanese keyboard for the very narrow space bar (the point is not that the space bar is tiny but that a tiny space bar makes for modifiers left and right of the spacebar easy to reach with the thumbs as the thumbs have much less distance to travel). Another bonus of having more modifiers is that can have these additional modifiers acting as Super and Hyper.
P.S: as a european for whatever reason it wasn't easy to get a Japanese HHKB Pro JP shipped to me, so I got my family in Japan to bring me two when they visited me.
The 3.5mm travel bothers me when I'm typing extremely fast, but the heavy weight and strong tactility helps prevent misinputs otherwise.
Additionally, I can have Box Navy in an ergo layout.
I have a Model F reproduction (F77) but I prefer Topre over it.
Like you, I prefer the sensation of typing with Topre switches. But I cannot escape the fact that ergonomics is by far the most important factor for my health — and as you know, there are sadly few keyboards on the market with Topre switches, let alone those focused on extreme ergonomics. (Again to emphasize the importance of ergonomics; as pleasing as aesthetics and sound and feel can be, they do not cancel out RSI).
Fortunately, I found a keyboard (and switch) with incredible ergonomics, aesthetics, AND great tactile and auditory sensation! Specifically, I use the ZSA Moonlander with Cherry MX Silent Red switches. I’ll spare you the rant about how amazing the ZSA Moonlander keyboard is with its ergonomics and firmware customizability, and explain Cherry Silent Red versus Topre.
The main problem I have with most mechanical “spring” key switches is the jarring nature when they bottom-out (as well as the loud click of some, which I personally hate); it’s very clear when the switch bottoms out abruptly and violently and makes a “clack” sound (not to be confused with the loud “click” sound that clicky switches like Cherry Blue make that some people like). I prefer a smoother sound and feel.
Unlike any other Cherry switch (or any others I’m aware of), the Cherry Silent Red has effectively a rubber pad on both the downstroke and the upstroke, avoiding the harshest “clacking” you get from mechanical spring switches that also is shared by Topre.
Now with that said, Topre still has an overall smoother and more graceful “force curve” than any “linear” spring switch will provide. But the rubber padding makes a huge difference and is (at least for me) good enough.
You may be correct, however the challenge I have is I got into the hobby for the ergo and ortholinear layouts, not the switches, and there aren't Topre boards with these layouts (or switches available for DIY builders).
BUT after a quick search, the one that you recommend doesn't have a numpad and none of them have an ISO layout, even those that do have the numpad...
I guess my search continues~
However, the gains have been huge for me! I can finally type in relaxed position. The layers are amazing!! I don't have to reach shift for those symbols. Everything is within good reach. Let's see what happens down the line. But split keyboard layout sold me! Will definitely go deeper into making one with low profile choc!!!
If Mistel had better programmable firmware, I would have gone Mistel... Maybe if I need a travel keyboard some day, I'll get the MD600.
Otherwise no complaints. It feels great.
DIY mechanical keyboard switch lets you set its actuation point - https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=32722411 - Sept 2022 (77 comments)
Also:
Detailed guide to mechanical keyboards (switch types, hysteresis graphs, etc) - https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=1539197 - July 2010 (17 comments)
Why does this guy claim that the potential input latency of a debounce implementation negates the latency caused by decreasing the polling rate? This is such a typical non-sequitur I see in computer related topics and doesn't change my mind that mechanical keyboards are yet another gimmick mainly lead by charlatans. Also the fact that you can just set 99% of keyboards, even from 20 years ago to 1000Hz with a tweak.
I once participated in a machanical keyboard meetup. There were a lot of Keyboards on display - mostly homemade. The one that for me really stood out was one built using vintage blacks.
I think Cherry wasn't really ready for the demand when the mechanical keyboard craze began, and therefore their quality suffered for several years. They have supposedly improved their manufacturing in more recent years, but the risk is that when you buy a new keyboard you'll still get switches from an old batch and not the new improved ones.
In the keyboard meetup back then I talked to the people from Cherry a lot. I told them that they have a lot of choices, but none of them is as great as that old vintage black over there...
They were owned by ZF and very into big industrial customers. In 2018 they talked about getting more independent again and about starting to care more about small customers. Also they were hiring all sorts of positions - to me it almost looked like a start from scratch - they listed positions from sales to firmware development...
It was way too difficult back then to buy from Cherry. So I chose Alps from Matias for my builds. Other then that I use an old indestructible Keytronic ErgoForce and a Topre.
> Mechanical switches are by no definition impossible to make bounceless.
In practice this doesn’t matter, because debouncing can be done without introducing a delay, it’s merely a question of writing firmware competently (most gaming hardware vendors don’t excel in this area).
Especially if they’re ads for keyboards it becomes really confusing.
SPDT pushbuttons with both outputs wired through a D-latch are perfectly bounceless.