When Every Ketchup but One Went Extinct
atlasobscura.com
atlasobscura.com
So the person responsible for the taste of ketchup, a woman, is barely alluded to, and not even named?
I don't think of myself as a feminist, but this is pushing it.
A quick search on "Curtice Brothers v. Harry E. Barnard" only refers back to the book. Didn't care to look beyond that to see if the case is online.
From scanning the opinion, it looks like the book cite is referring to testimony before a special master, probably convened to look into the factual matter of whether or not benzoate is a harmful chemical.
Disclaimer - I am not a smart person and could be very wrong on all of this.
(Well, this isn't strictly true, IIRC there have been a few changes over the years to both of their recipes and the regulations and Heinz were allowed to call themselves Ketchup for some of the time, but you get my point)
I'd translate it as "Tomato Dip", though strictly speaking that may be an inaccruate translation. A "dip" in Hebrew should be מטבל since ט.ב.ל. is a root that means "to dip" so מטבל would be a "thing" for dipping. Heinz's sauce however is מתבל which is a homonym but has a different root ת.ב.ל. which that relates to spices. Strictly speaking that isn't an official word then, but you can understand they are evoking both "Dip" and "Spice" with their chosen "word".
IIRC while the labeling in Hebrew uses that word, the bottles still have their original labels in English (on the other side of the bottle) saying "Ketchup", making the whole affair extra stupid.
Personally, I prefer heinz "not ketchup" to osem brand, but that can be my american trained pallate.
The English bring their recipes to the United States, and their descendants make mushroom ketchups, but also walnut ketchups, oyster ketchups, and all sorts of things. As late as 1913 Webster defines ketchup listing mushroom first, then tomato, then walnut.
Tomato ketchup becomes dominant in the early 20th century through the events described in this article, which not only destroyed most of Heinz’s tomato competition but all the other ketchups too.
There are also other, more modern ketchups. A personal favorite is Filipino banana ketchup, which was developed when that country was cut off from tomatoes during WWII.
But also, the taste. Heinz ketchup is a universe away from, say, a Vietnamese fish sauce. (Worcestershire is another sauce in the same vein.) Americans are much more liberal with sweet, thick ketchup than with anything fermented and sour.
Surely there ought to be vegemite/marmite and seaweed ketchup out there..?
What you won’t find is walnut ketchup
> Water, Salt, Spirit Vinegar, Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein [Water, Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein, Salt], Mushroom Powder (3%) [Concentrated Mushroom Juice, Maltodextrin], Barley Malt Extract, Spices
For generations now children in kindergarten have been repeating the phrase "ketchup Pudliszki przeczyści Ci kiszki"("Pudliszki ketchup will clear out your guts").
Kotlin (no relation to the programming language. Or is there? We may never know) I believe has much less sugar.
Anyway if you ever get the chance go to McDonald's in Italy and ask for ketchup - it's 0,50€ per portion, but the taste is completely different than anywhere in Europe.
Currently baking alive on vacation in Sicily, tomatoes from basic stores taste much better than regular ones I can buy in Switzerland, any time of the year. When they do pasta with red sauce its something I want to pack and take home with us and just clone forever. I mean obviously their home made pasta al dente is superb, but those extra more-red-than-red sauces are also on another level.
Country seems a bit broken and drivers dont seem to recognize basic traffic rules, but food is up there, pretty consistently.
Sadly no
And I've just learnt that Heinz owns Pudliszki.
[1]: https://i.wpimg.pl/1200x/d.wpimg.pl/2014472425--622848009/ke...
Though I know people who tried both and prefer Heinz.
I preferred Heinz for some things, I quite like vinegar so, until I found a jar of some Country Ketchup from Stonewall Kitchen[1]. That's something else entirely, and I love it, especially for burgers and bratwursts.
So yeah, ketchup ain't just ketchup... not entirely unlike mustards.
[1]: https://www.stonewallkitchen.com/country-ketchup-261607.html
edit: one of my fav combos is this on Jacob's Rå Bratwurst[1] with wholegrain buns. YMMV :)
[1]: https://meny.no/varer/kjott/polser/spesialpolser/bratwurst-7...
Of course, Norway being Norway means that to get this ketchup, I have to stop by one particular grocery store chain as they are the only ones that sell it. If I can't make it there for whatever reason, though, Heinz it is. It is always a bit of a disappointment even though it is what I consumed for years.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWlqxGQXZx8
It goes over an older Ketchup recipe and gives some related history. If you like historical food recipes and/or culinary history, you might want to check the channel out.
I wouldn’t have thought of myself as any kind of ketchup purist or loyal to a brand or whatever, but I’ve become so accustomed to Heinz regular ketchup that even their other versions of the same brand taste wildly off to me.
It tastes better (better better, not "healthy" better) than the normal stuff and drops the HFCS
The fact they're branding this as natural, but not the normal formula, would imply this is the reason
That green Heinz bottle, not the Stevia one, but with organic tomatoes and sugar, for some reason is one of the best big brand ketchups I've tasted. I don't like their normal ketchup tho, it's just to sweet for my taste.
It was good ketchup, though our son (mid-teens) preferred the store-bought product. All it takes is time, which I suspect is at something of a premium among the HN crowd.
- [1] https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2017/aug/20/why-is-...
I adapted this from Italian Cousine. A traditional bolognese works like that too.
The recipe I used is equal part olive oil and balsamic vinegar, Dijon mustard, Ketchup, pepper and some Herbes de Provence. The end result is a thick, strongly tasting vinaigrette, it doesn't go with every salad, but I like it a lot.
To explain: in most parts of the world unless you say no sauce the burger will have sauce added as they make it.
I've found in the US they give you a dry burger and then more sachets than you need of sauce. Which you then take and add yourself.
It's a minor weird difference. I find it an annoyance myself 'why do I need to put my own sauce on, can't they do it when they make it?'. I've always wondered why the US burger joints seem to consistently do it this way. The only thing I can guess is that they want to show you that it's Heinz sauce.
FWIW, this is also how ketchup is served at backyard bbqs: you give your friends a "dry" burger and direct them to where the ketchup, mustard, and other condiments are.
Those little ketchup packs get thrown out a lot. The bottled stuff tastes better anyways.
Could you name a major fast food or fast casual chain that does this? Because it’s not typical. If not ketchup, a burger will have its standard option of a “special” usually Russian dressing style sauce option (the Big Mac special sauce, Shake Shack shack sauce, INOB spread, etc) - you can ask for ketchup, mustard and mayo to be added at any major fast food or fast casual chain - if it’s not standard. You can hold any condiment as well. The sachets are usually for fries.
Franchise/chain restaurants (e.g., McDonalds, Five Guys, In-N-Out) and fancy gastropubs prepare their burgers with a particular sauce by default.
Don't tell me you have nothing to chose from in the US?
> Simply Heinz™ is made from the basics: red ripe tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, salt, and a special blend of spices and flavorings.
Sauce: https://www.heinz.com/product/00013000004640/heinz-simply-to...
They generally exist to avoid companies misrepresenting their products and misleading consumers.
https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfr...
The USDA also has a grading system: https://www.ams.usda.gov/grades-standards/tomato-catsup-grad...
This is why the bottle always says "fancy ketchup." This is the ketchup equivalent of USDA Prime beef.
In Russia "tomato sauce" is basically anything that has tomatos. But at the same time we have mostly sauses from Georgian, Turkish, Armenian etc causine. They have all kinds of spices (and often vegetables).
Ketchup is usually something far poorer in ingredients.
https://www.livingabroadincanada.com/2009/05/13/why-does-ket...
https://www.primalkitchen.com/products/organic-unsweetened-k...
Came here to say just this. I have a pretty undiscriminating and liberal palate and don’t really have that many dislikes when it comes to food. But Heinz ketchup is just bad. No flavor and just boring.
Then I had some "tomato jam" in a higher end restaurant and it was amazing and I realized it was just a nice house made ketchup. Since then I've also tried Red Gold ketchup and that's pretty darn good as well.
I assume he's just saying it wouldn't have hurt, since those regulations also helped prevent a ton of people from getting sick from the preservatives that were poisoning them. I see the "regulations only ever benefit the big players in an industry" argument so often that seeing a line like that in an article seems more ambiguous than was probably intended.
Do they mean kecap? Does this mean the similarity in name between ketchup and kecap is not a coincidence, but ketchup really started out as an imitation of the other. Must have been a hell of a journey, because today they are absolutely nothing alike.
[0] South African word for a "hot-dog" but the sausage is actually real meat sausage (boerewors), the sausage itself is kinda unique and amazing as well.
Here in Sweden, the most popular brand isn't Heinz, but Felix.
https://www.felix.se/app/uploads/sites/33/2022/03/220209_Fel...
edit: Felix Austria is a daughter company of Felix Sweden, founded by the same Mr Felix a couple of decades later.
Now I'm itching to try the Swedish Felix and see how it compares to the Austrian one.
Also TIL that: "Sweden has the world's highest consumption of tomato ketchup, and Felix is by far the biggest brand, almost twice as big as its nearest competitor."
Why do Swedes eat so much ketchup?!
Felix's website^ says "Sverige har världens högsta konsumtion av tomatketchup" (Sweden has the world's highest consumption of tomato ketchup), though it doesn't say per capita or in total... I wouldn't be surprised if it was the latter. Sure! Let's put ketchup on spaghetti! On pizza! Why not!? :)
I've never come across an actual tomato ketchup brand that contained food colouring. Did that even exist anywhere?
(·)https://www.hela.eu/en/hela-at-home/products/product-finder/...
(There are also "artisan" ketchups, but they're a very niche product.)
Sour, salty, chilli flavours and a good hit of heat.
Very interesting article anyway!
1) put cut tomatoes in a small-mid sized bowl (add tomato paste if you want it more thick)
2) add salt/pepper
3) add vinegar (choose accord to taste u want)
4) blend it or smash it