Edit: there's also two strings, one on each side. So if one snaps, I think you can ride home with the other
Edit: there's also two strings, one on each side. So if one snaps, I think you can ride home with the other
If you put a new chain on old sprockets, it will likely skip, particularly on the rear cassette. This will go double if you're someone who allowed the chain to wear for so long that it just broke. That chain will only work with the sprockets that it is on and vice versa.
If you damaged a newer chain due to some freak accident (like cross chaining while shifting under load or something: shouldn't happen on a quality, well adjusted drive train) you probably don't want to replace it; aside from the bent/broken link, it is good. Splice the damaged link out and get moving.
Swapping in a new chain could be extra work. It likely has excess links which you have to remove and set aside, and may have stuck links that have to be identified and massaged into releasing.
For MTB especially, it’s not the fact that there’s probably better drivetrain options, but the fact that the current options will happily take a beating, and still let you ride back out. I’m sure the string is real nice and quiet, and has a nice internal hub, but my chain, mech and cassette will get whipped into trees and rocks, will have sand, water, grit ground through it for ~20kms, sustain impacts from going off drops and jumps and they’ll continue to work. I’ve bent mechs, hangers, dinged cassettes, ground chainrings, and they’ll put up with an astounding amount and still get you home.
Once home the ease of access make maintenance a lot simpler, everything gets a clean and lube and it’s happy to go again.