How I clean my glasses
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1. Get your glasses wet with warm water.
2. Apply dish soap to both lenses.
3. Gently rub the soapy water over the lenses. For some stubborn things (like sunscreen) in the edges I sometimes gently use a Q-tip.
4. Rinse under warm water. Gently rub with your fingers to agitate the soapy water and help rinse it off.
5. (This is the important step) Adjust the faucet’s flow to a low laminar flow and run the glasses through water, hitting the top of the glasses first and letting the water flow down and off the bottom of the lenses. It might take a couple passes but doing this will eliminate any water droplets on the lenses.
6. Use a clean towel to gently dry the frames. The lenses don’t need drying since the laminar flow eliminated all the water droplets on them.
I am guessing this may damage the glasses with the dust but it is fast and effective.
In between these sessions, I will use the little wipes. I find that paper they are made of is very similar to chem wipes. I keep the papers in a little box and use them for all sorts of minor tasks.
- Do not apply soap to the lenses. Soap is too thick. Apply it to your fingers and rub between fingers to dilute with a bit of water before applying to glasses.
- Use your fingertips as abrasive. Soap is there to dissolve any fats but your fingertips (if clean) are best material to remove anything from your glasses without scratching the surface.
- Few faucets give good laminar flow. I just blow over the glasses. If you do this right, your glass are not scratched and you have cleaned them well, all water will slide off easily.
- Don't ever use towels on either frames or glasses. Towels can easily scratch glass not to mention much softer frames.
If you just dry it out, the mineral residue from water will be left on your glasses.
More than that, mineral crystals are incredibly abrasive so next time you try to clean the glasses they will be abrading and destroying your perfect glass surface.
And second, using distilled water to clean your glasses must be strong contender for least practical glasses cleaning technique.
Blow the water off
vs
Find that jug of distilled water (make sure there is one at work and at your parents in law), then rinse with it (you can do it, hold the jug in one hand and the glasses in the other, don't use all the water), then use the hair dryer on cold to dry your glasses.
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If you need distilled water and hair dryer to do it the result will be permanently dirty glasses, not clean ones.
Maybe because I get the non-scratch coating, but this has never been an issue for me. Have been doing it for twenty years without issue. Assuming lenses are replaced every several years, which they should be.
The scratches on the glass do not have to be visible. The surface just gets a tiny bit matte, reducing the contrast and also making cleaning a bit bigger problem.
As to the frames, except for the unavoidable wear and tear in places where it can't be avoided, my current main daily driver Tom Ford acetate glasses look as shiny as on the day I got them, 3 years ago.
My friend has similar frames and they look matte, after less than a year.
Other methods introduce too much unnecessary complication which don't make the lenses cleaner. Any kind of absorbent material has the potential of depositing tiny fibers or other specs on the lens surface. And air drying potentially leaves behind impurities the from water.
They are simple devices that lightly shake objects very quickly, in water. They work well with dirt that is soft (e.g. grease), and therefore not only for glasses, but also for teeth aligners and jewelry/small objects.
Some grease is still sticky, but generally speaking, I do a 10 minutes pass every day, and the eyeglasses have never been cleaner.
BE CAREFUL with coated lenses (in particular, cheap sunglasses there), as they will be destroyed (the coating/film will detach from the lens)!
I have a few uncoated lenses, such as semi-disposable safety goggles, and a few uncoated glass lenses of one sort or another, although I expect you didn't mean those.
I don't know the technical distinction, but there is a noticeable distinction in prcatice. I guess that "cheap coating" is made by gluing a film; I see this type of coating very often in budget or even not-so-budget sports (sun)glasses.
Cleaning this type of glasses in an unltrasonic cleaner will cause bubbles to form between the film and the lens.
This is the exact thing I do as well. I have also found that rinsing with hot water helps tiny droplets evaporate quickly without (for some reason? Clean water at home?) leaving drying stains.
My main concern is that the more effective soap may damage coatings. In practise, however, it seems that she has to change lenses often enough that damaged coating does not have time to become a big issue. (This is partially due to how pregnancy and breastfeeding changes the eyes -- we'll see how things go after this.)
https://www.amazon.com/Zeiss-Pre-Moistened-Cleaning-Wipes-Co...
If they are especially dirty, I'll rinse them with clean water and maybe a bit of soap first.
- Wash with cold water. Warm or hot water might ruin the coating. (Our water comes supercooled right out of the tap in the winter,so in order to not have my hands instantly frozen into a solid block of ice I go for 15—20 degrees or so.)
- Use a drop of mild dish soap without ammonia.
- Dry them with a soft clean cloth (they use microfiber I think, I just use a random soft towel that doesn't give off any lint/dust)
Doesn't have to be more complicated than that. It takes 20 seconds and my glasses are as good as new.
This is why I worry about radiant heat from fires while camping or burning yard debris. Plastic lenses are usually opaque to IR and that means they're heating up even more than you might think.
Is that really your experience where you live? In mine, the cold tap is cold - once allowed to run through whatever's in the pipes in the building, since it's come from underground.
I've lived places where in the winter, the tap water is just a couple of degrees above freezing. I've lived in places where in the summer I've measured the tap water at over 90 degrees.
He must live somewhere that doesn't get to any real temperature extremes.
Yeah, they are. If you only have say -2 its no big deal. I have -4 and with heavy glasses (I used to wear such) I get pain in top of my nose rather quickly.
I wear glasses and my glass lenses are made by Zeiss. My left eye has mild astigmatism and the glasses correct it perfectly. Each one is made from a single piece of glass that is ground to shape.
I'm from a place that never really gets below freezing, so I have to ask. Is this serious? If so, that's fascinating. When you turn the tap on, does the water instantly turn to slush on the way out? Does it come out at full speed or sluggishly?
Not literally supercooled though, pipes aren’t that pristine, they will happily freeze.
I use cheap, uncoated glasses though and replace them every 3-4 years anyways.
This final step is also how soldiers get those perfect mirror finishes on their boots and belts!
Since I've started doing this I've actually had compliments from optometrists what good shape my lenses are in.
We have super hard water. Despite soaping to degrease the lenses, our water never just sheets off like soft or distilled water does on a really clean surface. It beads up and leaves deposits when droplets evaporate. So step 5 is problematic for me.
After the rinse, I set the glasses down on a paper towel - temple pieces extended as if I were going to put them on. The lens frames rest on the paper towel, their lower parts in contact with the towel.
I use canned air to gently drive droplets down front & back surfaces to the bottom of the lenses. They then generally wick away into the paper towel, or else evaporate at the lens/frame interface. No need for step 6. Takes about 30 sec, leaves no spots on the lenses after.
They'll eventually fog, but it takes a lot longer.
A better solution is to keep a clean microfiber lens cloth that never comes into contact with anything except freshly cleaned lenses to dry them. Unfortunately, for me it's tough to keep one that clean for very long.
A worse solution is just to use the relatively-clean inside of a t-shirt. All three methods have their place IMHO.
I don't know how true it is but I read in a few places where hot water and glasses don't mix well. It can mess with prescription lenses and potentially strip away extra coatings you have like auto-tint.
I know hot and warm are different but just to be safe I always go with cool.
It's too bad hot water is bad for lenses because it would be really convenient to be able to clean them while showering.
It's better to do a final rinse with RO or distilled water.
The best recommendation for it is remembering my chemistry teachers telling us that "water is the universal solvent". Well, filtering and removing all of the stuff previously dissolved in the water turns it into a very aggressive yet gentle solvent. It's great for cleaning surfaces and tools at the shop, windows at home, it makes glassware really shine, and of course, as a final step cleaning eyeglasses.
(I just use a kit & resin from CR Spotless, available online. No affiliation, hope it helps as a starting point)
It is AWESOME.
It is amazing for sunglasses. Clarity is critical for driving, but they also seem to build up oil faster than normal glasses. Dawn makes them meticulously clean.
Also, I wash my windows at home with plain water and a squeegee.
I know someone that cleaned their hard contacts like this too.
But yep, this is exactly what I do. Usually hand soap, but the stuff I get is just plain soap, no fragrance or moisturizer, so it rinses super easily. And when it's properly clean, the water leaves the surface dry and streak-free.
Between cleanings when I get a small smudge I go back to using my t-shirt, but I only clean the specific area that is dirty.
Here's what I did: 1. First pass of laminar flow water from the faucet to remove any large debris. 2. Two sprays of lens cleaner on each side of each lens. 3. Rinse lenses with laminar flow water making sure to leave no droplets behind.
Thank you for changing my algorithm forever.
Here's my solution:
* Buy 4x pairs cheapish glasses from Zenni.
* Beat the crap out of them.
* Replace as needed.Once you also add amenities like photochromic lenses, it quickly adds up.
I think it's something that's more noticeable when you need relatively high power lenses.
It's nice being able to grab a cheap pair of glasses for activities where there is a high probability of them getting damaged or lost, and having a backup pair handy. The reduced mental load of not having to worry is worth it!
That's for sure. I bought a pair from 38dollarglasses.com and skipped the antireflective coating option. As it turns out, if you've worn glasses with AR coatings all your life, plain lenses are really, really surprisingly annoying.
At -10.5, -11 I always get relatively low refractive index (~1.5) CR-39 based lenses because it's Abbe number is 60. This means I can still read, say, street signs or flanking computer monitors out of the corner of my eye despite the light going through literally >1 cm of material.
Most decent optical labs operate on a sliding scale, going thinner and thinner, but costing more and more. Can get quite expensive (relatively), but if you're going to absolutely baby your glasses, and use something like Zeiss single-use lens wipes, yes I think it's absolutely justifiable for something you're going to use all day, every day for several years.
About 12 years ago, I switched to rimless with carbon fibre arms to try and get the weight down as the option to go as thin as I'd like just wasn't there yet, and I was still stuck with traditional glass, so the weight was a concern for me, and my glasses were forever slipping down my nose (ugh).
Maybe 4 years ago I switched over to hingeless titanium frames (almost wire-thin) with rimless lenses that are incredibly thin and light, and made out of polycarb. Not got my prescription info to hand, but it's a world of difference what's available now versus a decade ago.
They're so thin and light now that I frequently forget that I'm wearing them, and can even fall asleep in them! Oops! They stay stuck on my nose too, I never need to push my glasses up my nose.
I thought pursuing thinner and lighter would be an exercise in vanity, but I can honestly say it's significantly improved my quality of life.
Look for "high (refractive) index" lenses. It bends light further, so you need less material / less angular difference to get the same effect.
Which is much much better than like 15+ years ago, when I had a pair that had enough aberration that I was happy to get the thicker ones the next time. It was kinda fun being a walking spectroscope, but definitely uncomfortable in quite a few cases.
Haven't changed them for 8 years now and they're 100% scratches, they lost some protective layer a long time ago from going into the sea with them. One half is glued together. I'm just too lazy to replace them.
The article mentions washing them, I have never tried this or nothing to back it up, but I suspect that may be where the problem lies. Just replace the cloth. They cost pennies.
They even go as far as to put them back in bags and such. I don't bother and have never noticed an excess of grease, dust, or anything they do. Mine is just replaced every now and then sitting openly on my desk
It's at the point where I wonder if doing less is more. It certainly seems obsessive
People may say microscratches, yada yada. It's so inconsequential that my eyes go bad before the lenses do due to my treatment.
Zenni makes their glasses to order; what do you mean?
I used to always go with Costco, but last year I tried Zenni. The frames are definitely flimsier than any others I've had, which I've heard is generally the case for their wire-frame options—I'm sure their heavy plastic frames are more sturdy, but that's not my style. But the lenses seem as good as usual. Except they polished the edges of the lens instead of leaving them frosted, which creates distracting reflections under certain light (with an Rx of around -9/-10 my lenses are 7-8 mm thick). Despite all that I'll probably stick with Zenni in future.
I wash my glasses with a drop of palmolive dish soap and warm water, then blow any water drops off the lenses. An oelophilic coating (available with Zenni) makes this easy, because the water beads up and almost rolls off.
I have lenses with an optical index of 1.61, which have an Abbe number of 41. In comparison, basic polycarbonate has Abbe 30 (horrible), high-index 1.67 has Abbe 32, and high-index 1.74 has Abbe 33. The best is CR-39 (index 1.5) with Abbe 59, but that will result in an absurdly thick lens, and I'm not sure it's even available in such a strong prescription.
I can't stand chromatic aberrations because they make everything outside of the centre of the lens blurry. This worsens my tendency for one eye or the other to wander if I'm trying to focus on something just at the edge of reading distance (road signs or restaurant menus, for example) and makes driving at night in the rain difficult. My current glasses have an acceptable amount of abberations, but my previous set was horrible.
I really should be wearing contacts and I've tried them several times, but I generally find them very uncomfortable and I've always hated how they take away my perfect close-up vision.
It was kinda neat to be a walking spectroscope, and see what different light sources produced. But the novelty wears off fast when it starts blurring and coloring text on the outer edges of computer monitors. I'm plenty happy paying another $100-200 every few years for lenses that don't do that.
Currently, if I look at any sharp contrast edge in daylight and turn my head a few degrees, it'll be lightly fringed by either blue or orange. In the dark with a three-color RGB LED projecting "white" (rather than a broad-spectrum white source) I can get fairly clearly separated dots of different colors closer to the edges of my lens.
Not really an option unfortunately, my eyes are apparently too dry.
Could you apply some kind of light paint to the edges? Maybe nail polish?
if you start adding features (like thinner lenses, or coatings), the price adds up quickly.
i usually spent $60-$120 per pair of glasses on Zenni.
An interesting thing I learned in that industry, the uncut "puck" of plastic/material is usually cut to your prescription via an CNC style machine. The cut instructions are essentially a pre-built CAD file based on your prescription/measurements. A significant cost of the process is paying "click fees" which are essentially IP to use that CAD file or a usages based tier on the CNC machine (however you want to look at it). I think, for the company I was working with at least, it was tied to the CAD file though. I recall some discussion of us changing vendors as current vendor's CAD files were failing QC checks at an unacceptable level. If I remember correctly, it was about $5 of a $20 finished good (averages for a pair of lenses). Every coating imaginable would only add $3 at most to cost of goods.
Memories from ~3 years ago.
IP/Brands drives a lot in this industry and is how Zenni is able to cut costs. A company like Rayban will partner with a lense manufacturer to put a logo on the lense and then charge $300 for the lenses. It's the exact lense the manufacturer would normally sell for $25 but now it has a Rayban logo on it. (I actually had these and ended up scratching off the Rayban logo because it was constantly visible in my periphery).
Sunglasses are the worst. They cost basically nothing to make but the profit margin is Inf% b/c of branding. A $20 (at most) pair of non-name sunglasses instantly becomes a $700 pair of glasses once you slap a few PRADA insignias around it.
I used to get my sunglasses from Goodr; they charged $25 for no-slip polarized sunglasses, which were very good. After one of the pairs broke, I decided to get two pairs of Ray-Ban Wayfarers, one for $75, and the other for $200. I knew I was getting fleeced, but I finally wanted a pair of "cool" shades and could finally get them without breaking the bank. :D
If forgot to mention sales commissions as I was talking about cost of goods. But a variable compensation for the sales person, is a lot of your cost if you are in a retail setting. Believe it or not, your optometrists gets paid commission too (if an employee) as does the person at the desk. It's a sales heavy business. Buy eyedrops, buy lens cleaner, buy here - we really don't want you to walk out the door with your prescription! We have a metric called "capture rate" that our commission is attached to!!
It's not too bad but was a surprise to learn it's much more retail than medical (as a business). I think in most the world it's not even necessary to see a doctor to get glasses, like in the US. I usually leave and buy somewhere else because my doctor just has a crappy selection of frames, every single time, he gives me the prescription when I ask. Then I have to ask for the pupillary distance and he acts like he doesn't know what that is. "Why do you need that?" Because if I buy online they'll ask, "Oh yeah, I can take that measurement".
1) The glasses have to accurately hold my the lens at a specific location and orientation relative to my eyes in order that they actually work.
Off by a little bit and it's world of splitting headaches and crazy distortion
Achieving that positioning, while dealing with my wonky ears, size of head, eye locations etc - requires knowledge beyond current web systems before ordering and - unless completely bespoke fabrication of frames as well - some form of final fitting post delivery.
- The prescription is sufficiently rare that the lens are not mass produced and instead have to be custom ground and cut to fit the frames before the glasses can be assembled.
To your second point: Zenni and competitors do custom grind their orders.
It always feels like a delicate act to get my lenses cleaner even with a microfiber lense cloth.
That’s what I do. And I shake the cloth beforehand to get sand from my pocket off of it. I do exactly four shakes, plus one extra swoosh that technically can’t be categorized as a shake due to its fluidity rating of 95 on the Holloway Motion Scale.
Granted I do clean my glasses (soap and water after each shower while they’re steamed up, gently towel dry). And I’m not much for disposable goods, these will last me years. But in the same spirit, I also like that Zenni accepts my expired prescription. My vision hasn’t changed enough to warrant another trip to the optometrist, so why waste the money, or my time, or theirs?
This whole article and thread has been super helpful, but I have to say thanks so much for the Zenni tip!
I was on that site all of 5 minutes before rushing to make an account.
The pages are super easy to read and informative, they tell me instantly whether the frames can go with bifocals and whatnot.
It even helped search by face type and let me do a virtual try-on.
In person places here all seemed hell-bent on upselling me, seemed to be bothered by my questions, and the prices were outrageous!
So now I can buy several cheap pairs, see which I like and then buy several copies to have stored for when I inevitably break my first pair.
I almost never say this these days but holy shit was I impressed all around!
Reading what people do for clean glasses (and as a person with OCD who sometimes gets infuriatingly distracted by the little shapes on my eyeball, much less dirty/scratched lenses), I was already not looking forward to needing these things.
With that being said, I do pay for quality sunglasses. In my experience, Zenni sunglasses are lacking.
For sure once I've found a pair I like and are comfortable I will get a nice pair or two.
I was looking into transition lenses so I'm not swapping my sunglasses for regular glasses. Quite a bit pricier but worth it, I hope. I've also seen some lenses that are supposed to help with glare from having an astigmatism and that would be a Godsend, especially at night.
So I didn't want to spend $800+ for trial frames and lenses and whatnot.
This whole thread has made me feel so much better about the process, and the timing could not have been better!
Lenses are not expensive. They're just pieces of plastic, just like the frame.
So here's the thing- I do exactly the same thing. Buy cheap classes. Use a kitchen paper towel or whatever is handy to clean them. But I have never had to replace a pair because of damage.
Every few years, my prescription changes enough to warrant replacement, and then I go and order another set of glasses from Zenni, and they always last until the next time, no matter how badly I treat them.
It is indeed a bit of a pain to clean it (I'm lazy and just don't... unless it gets really, really bad). This is why I'm strongly considering LASIK, don't have to pay for glasses for years ahead, don't have to deal with inconvenience of having it all the time (and especially when traveling and when doing physical exercise), don't have to deal with glare at night-time driving. I'm nearsighted and have astigmatism so I have to think carefully about this. Happy to hear if folks have their experiences to share on getting LASIK!
I just wanted to say, LASIK is a catch-all term now-days. I would recommend to see if you're eligible for the ReLEX SMILE[0] proceedure. That's what I'm hoping for. There are some (disturbing) videos on youtube that show the process step-by-step[1].
The biggest fear for me for traditional LASIK has always been the flap. SMILE is flapless.
[0] https://med.stanford.edu/eyelaser/procedures/ReLEXSMILE.html
This looks like the best of both worlds, great idea.
Unless this is maybe parody and I failed to pick up on that?
The worst part of having some elaborate routine with an ultrasonic cleaner and all is that the moment after, your glasses will instantly start accumulating dust and probably get smudged. It's not going to be really clean for more than a few minutes. And that's fine, you probably shouldn't worry about it.
Mine wind up with grease, fingerprints, dust, cooking oil, etc., so a good surfactant (i.e. dish soap) and some clean water tend to work pretty darn well.
If you want to finish 'em off with a critical-cleaning approach, go for it. The scratch/AR coatings on most glasses should be fine for both methanol and isopropanol. I would not, however, use solvents like acetone on plastic lenses of any kind; it'll probably destroy some of them.
All of this feels a little overkill for eyeglasses. Dish soap works very well (it's concentrated so don't use too much or you'll be rinsing a while) and most people have it in their kitchen. I personally mostly use hand soap in the bathroom -- works less well if it's a soap with lotion but most places don't have that. The added benefit is that you can do it almost any time or place without thinking too hard.
It probably would be more than enough to clean the hair brushes, instead of the ultrasonic thing.
Since I switched to the hand method, my lenses are in much better shape:
1) Clean hands with basic bar soap, leave soap suds on hands 2) Lightly rub lenses and frames with soapy fingers, taking care not to apply too much pressure and deposit skin oils 3) Rinse off with hot water 4) Shake glasses dry with both hands (carefully) 5) If tiny water spots bother you, or you can't wait for the remaining droplets to naturally dry, use a lint free glasses wipe to dab (not wipe) them dry
I miss actual glass, uncoated lenses.
A few weeks ago, one lens got bad enough that I soaked it in glass etching acid overnight and then polished it with Novus acrylic polish. In the last month I spent a lot of time outdoors with folk using sunscreen, and the other lens has gotten bad enough that I need to polish it as well.
On a previous pair with AR coating, I tried sanding rather than etching. It was a lot more effort, and I caused some distortion on the outer edges of the lenses. It was still an overall improvement from the messed up AR coating. I was taking high dose corticosteroids at the time, and the AR coating was driving me so crazy to the point that, if sanding didn't work, they were going to be smashed with a hammer!
The water only needs to be lukewarm. i.e. rinse glasses with lukewarm water, then get a drop of dish soap on fingers and rub fingers through a bit more water to dilute the soap, then gently scrub the lenses as you describe, and then rinse the glasses again with lukewarm water. Almost all the water will sheet off.
The residual oil remover mentioned is just a fancy name for lens cleaner that you can pick up in most supermarkets:
http://www.newprouk.co.uk/images/ROR/ROR%20data%20sheet.pdf
I've used this stuff to clean my SLR lenses (and my spectacles) but just by squirting a small amount onto a microfibre cloth rather than directly.
> certainly not an ultrasonic cleaner.
Yeah, I think I'd rather not be exposing my glasses to the rigours of the sonic tank :)
The only time I ran into problems was working with polishing metals. My glasses were getting scratched with the small particles/dust you couldn't even see. I almost thought they were faulty.
I fixed it by just rinsing before putting soap (before I would directly lather soap). Now I just rinse on both sides, soap softly, rinse, dry with softest tissues around.
In a pinch some alcohol will do, but do not like it or other cleaning solutions. Tissues only take 1-2 wipes unlike microfiber clothes which I also don't like.
I avoid touching the glasses themselves, only ever touch the frame (only part it's worn in 5 years is where I touch it), never put them in a case, always put them on my nightstand to sleep.
I replace them maybe once every two years, usually because I've ended up scratching them when accidentally hitting something. They're regular CR 39, nothing fancy (I like it due to it's high Abbe number, cannot stand the chromatic aberration on high index lenses).
I have used a glass cleaner spray bottle (which was methanol) when that ran out, I just refilled it with 95% ethanol (grain alcohol) and it seems to be fine.
I am curious about RoR and its chemical makeup. Is it that different than an alcohol?
How the brain processes visual information is really weird. I'm not surprised that a slight speck of dirt would really bother some people but not others.
Distilled water should be pretty cheap. You can sometimes buy it as "ironing" water. I use it for my watercooled PCs (plus coolant concentrate), in Switzerland it's about 1 CHF a litre from the supermarkets.
Anything less than that I would find my glasses were not really clean.
They are amazing and quick. Money well spent.
For 2 quid a pair, I treat these now as disposables and I've never looked back. I use the microfibre cloth + breath method to clean them and this works well.
But having 10 pairs of specs lying around at work, in the car, at home, etc was the best call I ever made.
Granted my prescription is standard - if I had astigmatism or similar it might be different, but for those who just need readers this is a no brainer.
If your lens is being scratched by this try spending a bit more on better glass. There's no point in skimping on something you hold on your eyes the entire day. Mine always lasted more than 7 years, and I only ever needed to change due to loss of acuity.
Doesn't always work that way. I never skimp on glasses, atm I'm looking through 500+€ Zeiss lenses (that's just for lenses, frame price not included), I've had them for a year and have one visible scratch. I always take care of my specs, always carefult when cleaning or putting on table but still have one pretty big and annoying scratch. How did it get there, I have no idea.
The kind of damage the OP is speaking about seem to match the description of very light superficial scratches causing diffused softening. Could be damaged coating, or just the glass being too soft.
I've only seen this happen on cheap (and normally polymer) lenses.
I'm curious on what the author used to test his cleaning methods, because it seemed to only appears after 2 years of using this method.
Since we're talking about eyewear care -- here's my approach. I have spray bottle of water, rubbing alcohol and dish soap (mostly water). This gets off any but the most stubborn grime and grease rainbows. Couple of spritzes then a wipe with a soft clean cloth.
(The original use for the spray bottle was to kill house flies, it's extremely effective)
My vision is poor (-600) but was stable for 25 years. In the last two years and especially in the last year once I got into my 50s, my vision has dropped like a rock. I need reading glasses for the first time in my life and when it’s too dark I can’t read anything. Switching between phone and tv is HARD and I can’t read properly for several minutes while my eyes adjust.
sigh What a drag it is, getting older…
I use the cloth for a couple months and then toss it. They're never the same after being washed, and they're cheap enough. I bought a 24 pack for $7 on Amazon in 2017 and I'm still working my way through it.
I've had this pair of glasses for about 4 years and they're perfect.
No, there won't be any micro-scratches if it's used gently. After all, I'm not telling you to use kosher table salt, right? Seriously, just try baking soda.
It cost £20 and I was dubious about it, but it cleans better than I've ever managed by myself with a spray. Lasted about 1.5y before it stopped being effective (just moves grease around rather than picking it up) and I went and bought another one.
EDIT TO ADD:
I got the surgery 3 years ago, I'm 42 now. Post surgery I am at 20/15 vision.
No complications, and no side effects.
If anyone is interested, here is the video of the entire procedure (they even offered to live stream it on facebook for me): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4YOuS-nznk
The magic: I just bought the glasses at good place (not the most expensive brand in my country, but quite decent) and picked the "greatest package" of features. They offered me like four features to pick from: - anti blue light - scratch resistance - scratch resistance level 2 - something else I don't remember but sounded useful
so I picked them all. The frames wasn't anthing top-branded so I paid like $200. The prices may differ around the world, I know but it's still lower than any mid-range smartphone and I suspect it should be similar in most of the world.
I used to use a t-shirt without any fluid for years (results were good enough), but since covid I clean my glasses with hand sanitizer with 60% alcohol (water based, not that jelly thing that would smear the view) and 4-layered tissues, the softest ones I can find (I have allergy, so I use tissues all the times, so just by "coincidence" I always have the softest tissues you can find with me).
Scratches? I can see a few, I suspect they all happened when I dropped my glasses on the concrete. I once sit on my glasses, I once dropped something heavy on the glasses I left on the floor near my bed. Frames got bended and they don't keep on my head that good anymore, so I drop them like twice a month, especially when I'm working physically on something. But still don't get scratches even by that.
For contrast:
My girlfriend bought the "greatest package" in a quite no-name shop (but with high rating on Google Maps, everyone is recommending the place), paid around 80% of what I paid, just because she liked the frames they were offering. After three years her glasses are scratched like hell, they look like a thing made from scratches. It's definitely time to replace them. Idk if she ever dropped them, she cleans them the same way I do. But those tiny scratches are definitely caused just by cleaning.
So to everyone I recommend trying to find a good store for your glasses and spend bigger amount of money on them. If you're replacing glasses every two years your investment on something better will return fast. If you are low on money - prefer good lenses over looks.
It will still be cheaper than ultrasonic cleaner and easier than treating your everyday item like an ancient artifact :)
You can thank me later! Never leave home without a bunch of these.
A few hours later, I just realized one of the hinges on my glasses has no tension anymore. It just swings freely. What a strange coincidence.
A previous brand (the air optix?) I lived in for a month at a time and was fine though perhaps I just didn't care as much.
They do get sticky sometimes, and I really have to blink to get started in the morning, or late nights
This summer I tried with contacts made to wear for up to a month without taking them out. When testing them out I learned I have also become astigmatic, which is a new experience; the contacts adjust in the eye to stay in the right angle, which makes mornings harder, as it takes a while for them to adjust. During daytime they mostly work well and I see much clearer now. However, I'm also getting older and these are now adjusted for seeing far, so for reading comfortably I'm going to need reading glasses/terminal glasses.
My old glasses are scratched pretty badly and the various coatings have rubbed off in the middle, which is pretty annoying. I mostly wear them for giving my eyes some rest (I have recently rediscovered how nice it can be too just remove them and not see anything) and because I really like the frames (Shuron Ronsir). They also have great looking clipons making them my favorite sunglasses.
Personally not a huge fan of the Zeiss wipes, seems to be too much solution on them.
The Target Brand...yes Target Brand wipes are great. Just enough solution to clean and not be abrasive and also evaporate without wet streaks on the lens. Also extremely cheap (the bottle version of the solution is nice as well.)
Basic wood toothpicks work really well for getting rid of anything that might build up around the little nubs near your nose. It takes like 30 seconds and it's something you might do once a month.
A toothbrush, on the other hand, is completely not recommended.
> Once a week, I use an oil remover...
Intimacy / kisses tend to leave my lenses smudged with face oils and sometimes makeup. Dry cloths don't seem to remove that very well. This works for me:
1. Spray with lens cleaner
2. Wipe off with a microfiber cloth
Reminds me just a touch of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBb9O-aW4zI
Fill a clean sink with warm, mildly soapy (dawn dish) water.
Let them soak in that for a few minutes.
Rinse them clean with fresh water.
Spray with lens cleaner (basically it's water with a touch of isopropyl alcohol), thoroughly.
Dry with an old cotton baby diaper. I've had a handful of these since my lab days. They're so freaking soft now, it's crazy.
Here's key: Never ever ever let your towel hit a counter. If you do, you'll scratch a lens. As author of the post writes, keep them in a bag. They come out of the bag, clean the glasses, they go back in the bag.
Inspect your glasses. Make sure screws are tight. Look at the nose pads, replace before they get funky. Seriously, they're touching your freaking face.
About every 6 months, I do the above, but I take them completely apart first. I'll spray the screws with alcohol and rub them back and forth on a towel to get the oils and such off. I'll clean the bezels where the lenses go. The nose pads fit in with screws. They insert into a cup and the screw goes through that way. I'll get a paper towel and make a point and twist it around in the cup to clean the oils out of there. Finally I'll wipe everything down as per above and reassemble.
Is this a thing, or a typo of prescription? Subscriptions would be very helpful when you have children with glasses. Probably ludicrously expensive though.
I get inexpensive glasses from Zenni so they're almost disposable.
Cleaning them like your the old man from Toy Story restoring Woody to collectable quality just feels like overkill.
Weird complaint, because distilled water is $1 CAD for 4 litres here at any supermarket.
Water and Kimwipes. They’re usually used in lab settings and are properly lint free paper wipes that can get anything optically clean.
Warm water is the most you’ll ever need.
Rinse with water until lens become hidrophobic again (signaling all the soap is gone).
Dry with air from your mouth (strong blows).
Follow with, as others have said, dish soap, fingers and microfiber.
1) use a kimwipe 2) use another kimwipe if they are still foggy
Beyond this, throw them in an ultrasonic cleaner or the dishwasher if you want them shiny. Buying glasses that do not have an artificially overinflated price is quite liberating.
Edit: Gonna assume the salty downvote is because I said "ritual" isn't it? Heaven forbid that anyone else know about a convenient product purpose built for cleaning optics.
Man, I've so many better things to do with my time on the planet than cleaning my specs.
Isopropyl alcohol - great for cleaning glass-wear and dirty electronics.
it took ten years, lots of disappointment, and an old-school OD doing a number on my eyes after an allergic reaction to contact lens cleaner, but it was one of the best things to happen in 2021.
(I use Acuvue Oasys toric dailies.)
Denture tablets are gentle enough to not remove the legends from the keycap, especially if its laser printed and not etched, double shot, or dye sublimated legends. You can speed the drying process by putting your keycaps in a dryer bag wrapped with a towel and shaking the water loose from the keycaps. As for cleaning the rest of the board, i use an air duster to blow out any "board chow" that has settled between the keycap posts. For the rest of the keyboard, water with a drop or two if dishwasher detergent. You can use other cleaners but be careful of stronger, undiluted solvents as the denaturing effect in some ingredients will ruin the case over time.
Tip #2: Try a split keyboard.
Giving any of that a heartfelt attempt, I promise you, makes it really difficult to go back to the old way. Some mechanical keyboards are very durable. I've been using Kinesis Advantage boards and can you believe it? I washed them multiple times. First time I spilled beer. The keyboard worked, but some keys felt different, they've become "sticky". I opened it, removed all the keycaps, took out the PCBs and washed them in warm soapy water. After drying and reassembling, the keyboard worked better than the first time I unboxed it. The second time I spilled soup on it, without any hesitation I opened it; and washed it again; and it worked just as before. I had more incidents (with different boards) and each time I would follow the same procedure, and the keyboards still work.
So, if the idea of washing the keyboard feels appealing to you, then Tip #1.
"How I Clean my Glasses"
I half expected a post where someone brags about cleaning glasses. HOW I clean my glasses is pretty interesting for those of us who wear them. Mine are just ALWAYS dirty, I don't know what the heck I keep doing to them.
I realize it's annoying when there's an edit that you don't agree with—and I would never claim that we get every case correct. But HN's overall approach to titles is one of the easiest things to defend about the entire site. It makes an enormous difference to the quality of the front page.
Edit: you can't compare "HN as it is" to "HN as it is, but without the title edits I dislike". That's not a possible alternative. The alternative is "HN without the current title policy", and that would be a front page inundated with linkbait and sensationalism—exactly what most people come here to avoid.
"Why I no longer recommend Julia" is a perfectly good title, it's prompting a question which the article will hopefully answer. Changing it to focus on correctness and composability bugs, rather than the bigger picture of why the author can't recommend the language, is putting your own spin, aka, editorializing. And that's fine! But you really should admit it, rather than crouching behind a weird defense.
That does involve some interpretive judgment—because why pick one phrase rather than another—but less than you might think, because nearly every article has a point where the author says what they're actually writing about.
We never do this to convey an opinion of our own. We don't much care what people think or what an article says. We care whether the title accurately represents what the article is saying, and does so in a way that isn't baity, because that is the biggest influence on discussion quality.
The submission you guys are bringing up (https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31396861) illustrates the point. "Why I no longer recommend Julia" is a baity title, because it doesn't say anything specific about why. It's just a pointer that says "I boo Julia". "Boo $language" is for sure flamebait on this site.
Such titles generate threads that are just generic boo-vs.-yay ventings between people who like $thing and people who don't. The substantive points of the article are lost under such a title. This is not true on the original blog, because there the title is just the first sentence, and any comments show up only at the end. But it's definitely true on an internet forum where the title is the entire representation of the article for most readers and commenters.
For that reason, we chose to change the title, and for that we looked at the article (https://yuri.is/not-julia/) to find where it says what it is actually about—the "representative language" I mentioned above. This was not hard to find—it's in the 3rd, 4th, and 5th paragraphs of the OP. Particularly the 4th, which reads:
My conclusion after using Julia for many years is that there are too many correctness and composability bugs throughout the ecosystem to justify using it in just about any context where correctness matters.
That's the article's own summary of what it says, so we made it the title. Basically we followed the pointer and replaced it with what it points to.
Having now read more of the article, though, I agree with you that the title edit changed the focus in a misleading way. I've changed it back now. Maybe "The simplicity of OpenStreetMap's data model", or something like that, might have been an ok compromise, but it's too late to matter.
Moderation is guesswork. Inevitably, we guess wrong sometimes. The best thing is for users to tell us when we've got something wrong, because then we can correct it. In the future, if you would let us know at hn@ycombinator.com instead of posting in the thread, where we're unlikely to see it, we can correct things while the thread is still live. We do that all the time (many times a day), but we can't correct mistakes we don't know about!
Such words also signals value, since they signal that someone has something significant to contribute to the conversation. For an extensive discussion about how such words signal value, see Larry McEnerney’s lecture The Craft of Writing Effectively:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtIzMaLkCaM
A more value-signalling title with less “Fight” might have been “The benefits of simplicity in OpenStreetMap's data model”.
That would have been a great edit. I won't bother doing it now since it's too late to matter, but if you come up with any of those in the future, I'd love to hear about them.
HN's actual rule isn't hard to find—it's in https://news.ycombinator.com/newsguidelines.html, which is linked at the bottom of every page and which commenters here ought to be familiar with. This is what it says: "Please use the original title, unless it is misleading or linkbait; don't editorialize."
Note that "unless".