Toyota explained that the system supports supplying power from hybrid electric vehicles
Presumably, this means you have a short, medium, and long option for emergency power:
- short: the battery
- medium: the battery + your car's battery
- long: use your ($25K) Prius as a gas generator to power your home for as long as necessary.
This seems like a more versatile setup than the e F150 at least for my use cases (rural WV -- power might be out for long periods but I can always get gas). It'll be interesting to see the price range of course, but this could be a good "mostly battery + gas if needed" backup option to compete with the diesel generator situation now. And of course the eF150 isn't really a good backup power (or transportation!) option in my case.
The eF150 generator use case always seemed like suburban prepper fantasy bullshit. The actual use case is for running power tools on site.
What does this mean? My naive reading would presume a stake in the ground?
For fun, put a nail in dirt. See how long it lasts.
But there is more to it: The stake has to have permanent contact to some electrically conductive layer in the ground, so you need to take geology and local climate into account. In central europe, with generally wet climate, you just need to reach the year-long stable, frost-free, local water table at a depth of (usually) between 1m and 10m. If you cannot reach sufficient depth, don't know the required depth, a simple stake isn't going to cut it. Because in case of an electrical fault, the grounding has to withstand and dissipate in the order of a few hundred Ampere. To achieve that you then shallowly bury lines of non-corroding material in a grid, or bury a grounding net something like 1 to 2m deep over an area of 100m^2 to 10000m^2.
If you are on sandy or rocky ground, permafrost, arid climate and no handy body of water is nearby for grounding, you need to have a far larger grounding net or use conductivity-enhancing methods like permanent watering, adding salts or carbon to the soil or replacing it outright with something more conductive. In all, very expensive.
And as for large installations, you just measure the soil conductivity, calculate the necessary grounding current and scale up the aforementioned methods.
The ground rod is not there to carry current to interrupt a fault to "protective earth" - the green or green/yellow. The circuit breaker interrupts a short as you bring the protective earth wire back to the main disconnect of a building where it bonds to the neutral wire.
If a fault occurs, an unregulated amount of current flows on the protective earth wire to the breaker panel and a circuit breaker interrupts the circuit.
In the IT systems, the protective earth is not bonded to the neutral. Thus in case of a fault, the protective earth should be low impedance to ground so that the circuit breakers trip. At least that's my understanding.
[1]: https://aktif.net/en/types-of-earthing-systems/#IT_System
Disclaimer: Not intended in any way as professional electrical advice yada yada. Just what I've read.
(Also all sorts of weirdness can take place around grid earth vs. local earth, eg. during thunderstorms. Earthing is its own entire engineering discipline. :S )
There may be no earth spike, but if earth connects to a copper pipe going into the ground, you'd expect them to be at the same potential.
I think the Hybrid F150 / generator case is pretty decent; not so sure about the EV only generator one, but running tools could be useful. Rolling a truck over to my well when the power goes out will be a lot nicer than rolling out a portable generator by hand. Could be maybe useful for cell towers that rely on generators driven to the site during outages as well; although that depends on if they usually drop off a generator on a trailer and let it sit without local supervision or if they stay with the generator. My well servicing company has a box truck with a generator in the back, that they use to confirm that the problem isn't related to utility electric service; not sure if a built up f-150 would be sufficient for their storage/transport needs though.
Well, I suppose if you have enough panels to generate power even on short, cloudy winter days, then that doesn't matter anymore; then you just need enough storage for the night. But then what are you going to do with all the surplus power on sunny summer days?
Some sort of cheap long term storage would really help a lot.
Long term storage would be the better solution, but batteries don't seems to be able to store a large amount of energy anyway. So in my opinion, it's really a tradeoff.
Maybe mine some bitcoins during summer? ;)
Also, I bought the panels to reduce carbon emissions, and would rather sell the power back.
On a cloudy day, the panels provide 90% of our normal power usage. Anyway, to scale it up, we'd want to increase panels and also batteries. Increasing only one would leave us with no power at dawn or with a large battery that would never reach 100% in winter. One night of batteries with panels that reliably provide enough electricity to get the batteries to 100% is a good tradeoff for sunny climates. As it gets cloudier, batteries might have more incremental benefit, but multi-day storage probably doesn't make sense.
Also, you can tie a gas/propane generator to the battery to handle the "a few times a year" cases. That's probably less carbon intensive than 5x-ing the system for 1% of the days.
(Since the 1% days for us are in winter, we have a wood stove.)
> Some sort of cheap long term storage would really help a lot.
Run a still to make ethanol from waste biomass. Store it (don't drink it!!) and use it to fuel a generator in the winter.
I'm only half joking.
https://www.car-engineer.com/adapting-an-engine-to-ethanol-f...
You don't have to do anything with it. Panels are dirt cheap these days, and if you want reliable off grid storage then you have to size them to keep up with baseload power under your target range of conditions anyway. Figure out how many days a year you're happy to run a generator or turn your fridge off, find stats on your local daily kWh/m^2 solar energy, size panels to cover baseload with that incoming energy.
I have 2kW of second hand panels hooked up to a 200AH 24V battery pack (again second-hand) to power a server rack, it uses about 4.5kWh of solar power per day without running the batteries down too far. The panels can generate 8kWh/day in summer, the rest is headroom for cloudy winter days. The last time the server saw mains power was... December, I think?
> Some sort of cheap long term storage would really help a lot.
I mean yeah, but so would Mr. Fusion.
The eF150 gives you a couple days. The Prius is a better solution if you really need backup power.
Perhaps you didn't hear about the millions of people who were miserable (and several who died) because their power grid is run by morons[1].
Losing power for three days may have been unusual for a long time, but with the combination of radical/unaccountable government, climate change, and aging energy infrastructure, it's easy to imagine that a lot of the warmer parts of the US are at some risk.
1. https://www.texastribune.org/2021/02/19/texas-emergency-comm...
Having the extra storage battery mounted at my house would be cool and all I guess, but you don't need this to back up your house's power supply with a Prius.
(I live in a small, simple house and only run the blower fan for my propane heating system, my refrigerator, my freezer, and a lamp off the inverter. I suppose if you had much more complex power needs, the battery would be a larger advantage, but for emergency power outages, it keeps me from freezing or losing all my food.)
https://www.plugoutpower.com/inverters
> unplug them and go refuel the car if needed
Just like standalone generators, this is a tough point. Fuel can become hard to source during a an outage > 5-7 days.
It's not terribly sophisticated, but it keeps my pipes from freezing.
Refueling a car is as easy as it gets, though. To refuel anything else, you'd have to put it in a car and take it to the fueling station anyway. This way you just refuel the car the normal way. You can also store whatever gasoline you'd have used in a generator at home too, but the Prius' 10.9 gallon tank holds a lot more than your average portable generator and runs a good, long while.
Now I'm in single family home and my energy use is bonkers, but most of that is heating while I'm missing part of my roof and an entire exterior wall. It should be criminal for a town to take two years to approve permits.
I've installed an electricity meter 2 weeks ago, and the lowest it got was 4,8 kWh/day in a 2-person Croatian household, although I do have a small Synology NAS running 24/7 and we have a TV on for a couple of hours.
But we heat the house on gas, and last december we burned about 180 m3 of it. Now, during summer, (in the Netherlands) we don't need heating or air-conditioning.
We heat and cook using natural gas.
The biggest consumer are the same here. Dishwasher and laundry.
All that stuff gives one great insights into what a kWh is (how much energy), where you use the most energy etc. I love it.
[0]: https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2021/08/04/home-energy-ma...
[1]: https://www.zuidwijk.com/product/slimmelezer/
[2]: https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-plug-s-smart-home-autom...
With all major appliances off (except the fridge/freezer) I consume ~0,13 kW/h, that adds up to 3,36 kWh in 24 hours.
Easy, live in a house 4x the size of a 2-person Dutch household and in a climate that averages 10 degrees C warmer, like would be common in the southeast US.
Do you mind shared where this is?
I also made a quick price comparison between the US and here:
- electricity? US: 0.14€/kWh [2]; here: ~0.30€/kWh [0]
- diesel? US: 1.40€/l [3]; here: 2.19€/l [4]
- gasoline? US: 1.26€/l [5]; here: 2.39€/l [4]
- natural gas? US: 0.44€/m³ [6]; here: 1.16€/m³ [7]
My conclusion is the US provide a reference framework of cheap abundant energy. The environmentally conscious have to deal with a framework that stimulates unbridled energy consumption, with hardly any real incentives for conserving energy.
[1] https://www.vlaanderen.be/statistiek-vlaanderen/inkomen-en-a...
[2] https://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.ph...
[3] https://www.statista.com/statistics/204169/retail-prices-of-...
[4] https://carbu.com/belgie/index.php/officieleprijs
[5] https://gasprices.aaa.com/state-gas-price-averages/
Unless you meant 100 kWh/day, which would be doable, but I think only with geothermal.
2000 sqft is 185m2 which is a mansion by my standards though :)
And 60 kWh/day is still enormous.
I have 2800 sq ft house and use around 30-35 kWh/day in summer. 60kWh/day is high but not outrageously high.
Average electricity cost in Finland is €0.184/kWh.
[1] https://www.finnwards.com/living-in-finland/how-much-do-home...
Then, after the building is actually built and inhabitated, the calculations are adjusted by the actual energy consumption over year).
As pointed out, competent HVAC companies should have people on staff comfortable with such calculations. However, my experience shows that it is not universally true, and many are just guided by intuition/experience with other projects (i.e. the roof insulation thickness on the previous project was X, so that's good enough for you, or "well, on average we recommend 50W/m2 of heating power when selecting a heat source"). Which probably works fine for many cases (e.g. renovating an older building, where even if the material properties when they were new are known, you can only guess the values after 20 years of service).
The most rigorous standard for home efficiency, the Passive House standard, stipulates that no more that 15kWh/m^2/yr is used for space heating. For a 200m^2 house, that's 3000kWh/yr.
Given a 120 day (4 month) heating season, that's 25kWh/day average just for space heating. Obviously it varies quite a bit, with some days much higher and others much lower. Add in other electricity uses, like refrigeration, laundry, and you're easily at 40+ kWh/day even in an efficient Passive House.
When I am home and cook, wash and have the lights on I do about 7.
Factoring in the heating (Swedish "fjärrvärme", remote heating. Hot water from a central plant) I do A LOT more. Something like an extra 30kwh/d in the winter months for a 120 m2 home with half-decent insulation by Swedish standards.
Apart from heating the house, we also use some power for hot water and pumping water from the well into the house.
When my apartment was empty for a few days last month, it used 2.2kWh/day.
I used 1700kWh of electricity last year, presumably mostly on cooking and the fridge-freezer. I don't have the district heating (fjernvarme) bill to hand, but that wouldn't be comparable to a house anyway.
Not much even in an efficient house.
We didn't build the house, so there are all kinds of standby stuff (including needing smart lights for most lights, stove, towel heaters).
I didn't turn these things off because my mother in law is using the apartment a little while we are gone.
Heating is a heat pump with probably 300% efficiency (i.e. 3kW heat for 1kW electricity). Walls are 300mm insulated wood frame. Triple glass windows. -20C for at least one week every winter. Could probably lower the consumption by recycling more heat (none of the wastewater heat from hot water running down sinks is recycled for example).
My 200m2 house is slightly worse at ~120kWh/m2/year, or around 24MWh of energy per year (that also includes domestic hot water though).
With a ground/water heat pump it should translate to ~5MWh of electricity per year, or about the same as my current yearly electricity consumption.
With a battery around 9 kWh, you'll probably install a solar system around 3 times as big or sth. like that.
So those capacity has to buffer for the night time when you're sleeping, heating probably goes somewhat down, nobody is cooking on 4 induction plates etc. pp.
Heating is gas, the hob is gas
I have 3kW panels and a 5KWh battery. During the summer hot water is heated through an immersion heater from solar - my electricity bill is roughly zero and I get to sell a bit back. During the winter - forget about it.
My landlord installed a 30 kW peak solar system (two households, six childs/people), installed a heat pump and insulated some walls that were not insulated before. Surely a hefty invest, but external power usage has dropped pretty much to zero from February to October. Even after that it's minimal.
After, for far bigger backups, a vehicle might be a gamechanger: it need anyway a far bigger battery for it's own performance, so battery costs does not matter much for the use-case and using it once you own the battery...
Also the not-produced platinum model you reference will sell for 150k+ so the price comparison isn't really valid either.
Lastly, home batteries have the potential to pay for themselves over time, making the economic models radically different.