And if you play canoe polo, you'll want it to be exactly 90 degrees so the ball rebounds predictably when you block the ball with the paddle.
Not only is your comment accurate, but also characterizes your background knowledge in ways I doubt a master author could accomplish in so few sentences.
Reading the article and comments brought back floods of memories. Of the exact circumstances when I bought each of the paddles I've owned [I've been kayaking for 35 years, in most disciplines, in 3 countries. So I have bought a lot of different paddles...]. Likewise all the trips, marathon races and canoe polo tournaments in bad weather when wind gusts tried to snatch the paddle out of my hands.
During this movement if the blade aren't feathered at all you have to compensate with some bending of the wrist. The amount of rotation of the shaft induced depends on how much you raise the hand/elbow, and so is fairly dependent on your style of stroke. This is the main way I think should be approached feathering: how much vertical do you intend to paddle? From there the angle should follow to optimize for the least amount of wrist twisting.
In general paddling very vertical will come with more angle in between the blades. I practice slalom and use to have 70-80 degrees crossing, but I tend to paddle less vertically now (aging? Lack of training?) and I'm down to 60 degrees comfortably now.
More concretely, if some biomechanical factor made it a good idea to rotate the top of the left paddle forward θ degrees at the start of the left-side stroke, I would want to rotate the top of the right paddle forward θ degrees at the start of the right-side stroke. But with a feathered paddle, one of those thetas is positive and one is negative.
This is wrong in a way that used to bother me deeply whenever I kayaked. I would unfeather any unfeatherable paddle I used to restore proper symmetry.
I suppose what’s really happening is that people feather to reduce wind resistance or because that’s how they learned, and once they’ve learned it, it feels natural.
I would be willing to believe that feathering either direction is somehow biomechanically superior to not feathering at all and that the symmetry is broken arbitrarily, but I would want to see evidence :)
Your wrist movements can then be symmetric -- your non-dominant wrist is free to move as you please.
And because you are free to set the feather as desired -- you can set it in such a way to minimize the rotation required of your dominant hand (and, per the above, non-dominant hand) to transition from one half of the stroke to the other.
https://www.sportsperformancebulletin.com/wp-content/uploads...
I generally disagree but lots of people with more experience than I have don't.
In general, I prefer to unfeather my paddles. (Many good paddles can be adjusted--modula small surface area Greenland paddles.) But there's also an argument that you shouldn't change your paddle orientation so that you can do bracing and other manoeuvres by reflex.