Investing in lighting did great things for my mental and physical health
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The ability to have light change colour temperature or dim depending on the time is so calming.
Whenever I revert back to the non—colour-temperature-adjusted light, I feel like I’m in an operating room.
The only thing I would note is that they are dimmer than regular lights. Having dim lights in the middle of the day really makes me sleepy.
LIFX: No Zigbee, no bridge. These bulbs connect to your 2.4GHz home wifi. More advanced features (schedules, scenes) live in the LIFX company server, so won't work without internet connection. But without outside internet connection, you can still use the phone app via your wifi router to control the color and brightness of individual bulbs. If you're a home automation hobbyist, you can give color and brightness commands to LIFX bulbs over your 2.4Ghz wifi, so you can program your own timed schedules that would work without outside internet connection.
Other smart bulbs: Cheaper. Philips Hue and LIFX are the two most expensive.
I understand LIFX is best for bright colors. But Philips Hue bulbs don't contain just RGB leds, but also leds for white and warn white, so the bulb may have 5 different types of leds. So Philips might produce better near-white "natural" light than same colors produced by combining only red,green,blue leds. Not sure if this matters to everyone or only to some lighting connoisseurs.
Their bulbs also sometimes just ignored commands, so you'd have to just spam power off or the color you were trying to choose until it finally worked (this was in a room with the bulb and a hard wired wifi AP). The app was also slow and took awhile to start (on flagship Android phone at the time).
Eventually my bulbs died and I haven't gone back to smart lighting yet (though I'm considering ordering some hue or Ikea bulbs).
If you check /r/lifx on Reddit it's basically filled with people complaining about lifx's awful software.
At this point I feel like I might as well wait for Matter bridges to come out this fall, as hopefully companies will refresh their product lines then and we'll get some better quality lights.
Sounds about right.
From what I understand the number one cause of led bulb failures is heat, which causes things like capacitors to fail prematurely or poor connections to break from the repeated expansion.
All my bulbs are used in lamps or fixtures which are not enclosed which means they have plenty of ventilation.
They were cheap though!
I've used Home Assistant[0] for the last 8-9 months. It works great and has support for every device I used with Google Home. It also has bridges so that you can still use Alexa, Siri, or Google Assistant for voice commands if you want that. The mobile app is good enough. It isn't as user friendly as Google Home, but it's not terrible and way more powerful.
You can run it on your own hardware, e.g. a NAS or Raspberry Pi, and they also sell purpose made hardware[1]
[0]: https://www.home-assistant.io/
[1]: https://www.crowdsupply.com/nabu-casa/home-assistant-yellow
But to be honest I'll be looking into getting a Home Assistant Yellow as well as this seems to be easier.
Having a REST API means the complete setup is easier to tinker with through a defined protocol and not having to resort to hack with the bulbs or any zigbee/low-level things.
I used this to play a bed time indication sequence on multiple bulbs in the living room from MIDI notes.
https://lan.developer.lifx.com/docs
But the API provided by the Phillips Hue bridge is maybe more high level.
A lightbulb should be a long-lasting, easily replaceable thing. Putting in all sorts of doodads into the base of lightbulb just strikes me as wasteful and a recipe for a brittle configuration. It's bad enough putting in a power converter, now we're talking about RF transceivers, computers, webservers, and REST API's. All this packed into a tiny very hot space packed in with silicone goop and made, often times, by disinterested bottom-of-the-barrel manufacturers.
It's much better, I think, to have the light bulbs be just that, LIGHTBULBS. Of course, they can be LED's, DC powered and have multiple colors but the control and power source should be in a box away from the lights, somewhere convenient. You can then put all the internet-of-things jazz into THAT BOX and not in each light.
This would ultimately give interior designers a better palette of light sources to work with and give consumers a less annoying churn of bad choices for technology.
How do you propose to do this in a lamp or a can light with a standard light socket? Should I rip open my ceiling and add control wires to every can that's in there?
These bulbs don't have the smarts in them just because nobody thought of doing otherwise. The world is mostly made of legacy infrastructure. Hue will sell you lamps that don't use E26 bulbs, but you're not going to be changing the lights out later if you want to use something else.
Yes. Eventually. Or, more practically, do it right in new construction.
I sense great commercial success here, telling people to run LV to every HV can light. And how about--you know--a lamp? Like the one standing on my floor right now, with nowhere to place an external box? Should we redesign them all for this new standard that doesn't address actual pain points? How do we power the control boxed? Does every lamp now have a chaining 120V and you need to hang an AC adapter off it, then weasel control wires into the lamp shade? Or do we expect them to output 12V in case you want to run them with automated controls? Or do we expect them to just pick a vendor, build in their control box and you throw out the lamp if the software sucks? In a lamp?
This solves a problem people don't have through the time-tested strategy of making people think more, do more work, and be more annoyed. I think I'm seeing why it doesn't exist.
(And yes, I know about 12VDC lights; I have a studio full of them, with DMX controls. They're not consumer-friendly.)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VQLZBNW/ref=ppx_yo_dt...
The MagicLight app works pretty well, doesn't require cloud (though they will try and get you to sign up) and you can automate through home assistant or look at the API yourself.
I roll my own home automation system and can only recommend them because they just work.
No apps, networking, or anything, nothing to configure, just IR remote control.
The newer ones are pretty bright, too!
I am really, really hoping that quality, adjustable lighting like this continues to come down in cost and continue to improve.
The only downside is their rather expensive cost so I'm yet to replace all my lighting with it, but it's a great investment given that it'll probably outlast me and so won't need to change them.
I suspect they’re only high CRI at certain color temperatures?
They offer a high current adapter for the Phillips Hue Light Strip so you can have large and bright light strip installations. Their LEDs are also top notch. I installed some as my pandemic lighting and it's been great.
What would the utility of smart bulbs for someone like me be?
Also automation does work very well and doesn't depend on proprietary gateways or so.
Ditto with their pure whites; haven’t measured the spectrum but feels like they don’t manage to approximate sunlight in color rendering. Granted, the bulb I have only goes between blue-white and red.
Anyone been thinking similar thoughts and know of any options?
The hue 800 ones were noticeably darker compared to the Lifx so I went with Lifx, this was many years back.
I really wanted to try their products because I hear the color bulbs are INSANE, but they were always out of stock, never on sale, and I heard so many horror stories...
Automating with the brilliant open source Home Assistant.
And at this very moment the dang color bulb is sold out on their website.
I will keep an eye out for a bargain or better bulb if I can find one. I am definitely hoping to be impressed now that I am a lifelong consumer of these things.
The 1600 color bulbs are just the old color bulbs with an upgraded white LED, which is still really nice but not like... a huge upgrade if you're trying to blast really huge color. They are overpriced as heck right now. Really a bummer move.
... my money says they are coming out with a new color bulb in the next year
Bit buggy though. :(
I think this view has a lot going for it.
I don't want lights someone else controls and not going to pay for lights that report to someone else when they are on/off.
Once the bulbs are set up with the hub, you can control it on your network using HomeKit or open source equivalents, and don't need the Hue app for anything but firmware updates.
This article convinced me taking the plunge would be reasonably safe, and I've been pleased with it. https://mjg59.dreamwidth.org/51910.html?thread=1921222
When I remodeled my new home, I put 3 dimmable LED light strips around each ceiling, hidden above molding, so every ceiling is effectively a diffuse but high lumen light.
Then I use smart bulbs in accent lamps and other lighting, to add color for variety and mood.
I'm remodeling a 12'x12' bedroom to be my office and lighting is a huge part of my plan. I'll do cove lighting like this using CRI 95+ LED strips dimmable ~500lumen/ft either 4000K or 5000K. Haven't decided on the color temp. You lose a lot of CRI going to a temp adjustable strip.
The effects, with a 60000 lumen setup, were remarkable. Winter depression, which affected me on 2 out of 7 days before enrolling in the study, dropped to zero for the next two months.
The study showed that this lighting setup works as well as those light therapy boxes you sit in front of, and perhaps even better.
I went to the optometrist recently and my vision had abruptly tanked, I have a much stronger prescription than a year ago.
“Have you been pulling long screen hours?”
“Yeah. Very long.”
“Well that’s why.”
“Outside of cutting screen hours, is there anything else I can do?”
“Get the highest DPI display you can afford and crank up the font size. Won’t help much, but it’ll help a little.”
So I splurged on the 6k display. I can literally feel it in my temples after a long session.
Getting up to a modern DPI is a game changer right?
I have been messing with VR lately and that is a new dimension as well, similar in change to the jump to high DPI. Ignoring the stereoscopic part, you also don't realise the scale of things until they are in the correct FOV in front of you. I see now why simracing boffins faff about with FOV so much on their screens! I took the effort to calculate FOV for my desktop monitor and where I sit, and in FPS games and it made a huge difference to immersion.
When I was like maybe 19 there was this Quake3 player who went by Zero4 who was in the top few on Earth at that time, and my 16 year old brother slapped him around so effortlessly during their biweekly workouts I knew that it was going to be more fun to watch than to be 1-px railed before I figured out which gun I was holding :)
Even if I'm off by a factor of two he was faster than an F22 pilot, by a lot.
I’m currently using WezTerm on Mac OS because it renders very crisp fonts and has GPU-accelerated ligatures, it’s pretty slick and I’d recommend trying it out.
I’ve messed around a bunch with my Ubuntu machine with the same terminal/font/etc. and never got a result I liked.
If you have a really good config that you like I bet I wouldn’t be the only one who gave it a spin!
I assume other desktop environments support something similar.
However, they also claim there is a natural relaxing of the eyes, which adds to the immersion.
I wonder if such a display would work in an office environement. A quick look for any literature came up blank.
It's known that having less light exposure (e.g. going outside) correlates heavily with decreased eyesight.
What follows is my best synopsis on what is wrong with the industry, what causes worsening vision, and what you can do to resolve your vision issues in a matter of months and never have to worry about it again. You'll still need some form of corrective lenses though - I'm not selling bullshit.
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Most cases of myopia (nearsightness), involving progressively worsening vision, are largely due to inaccurate lens prescriptions.
An optometrist or optician will have you sit with your head in the phoropter asking "better/worse" while flipping lenses - pretty much a binary search type of approach. But this is often done hastily and results in inaccurate prescriptions.
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Unfortunately, inaccurate scripts are often inflicted upon children which as I will describe later, compounds into worsening vision over time, with the opticians/optometrists prescribing higher and higher power lenses that are only solving an issue that is created by the previous history of inaccuracy! Telltale signs of inaccurate scripts include:
- minor corrections
Eyes are not static objects and vision actually does vary from month to month, day to day, lighting conditions, blood pressure, etc. If a correction is minor, it's almost always unecessary and harmful.
- slightly different prescriptions for left (OS) and right (OR) eyes.
99.9% of folks have equivalent vision in both eyes. Like I said above, if a difference is minor, a correction would almost always be harmful.
- minor cylinder corrections (astigmatism.)
Astigmatism is extremely rare and when it does occur it's almost never minor. These corrections are especially egregious as they cause distortion compensation.
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So why do eye professionals commit these cardinal acts of eye destruction upon their patients? Well we already discussed hastyness but that is clearly a vice that is going to result in bad outcomes in any profession.
What else? Well, eye professionals are taught to seek out as perfectly sharp an image as possible, and then back off the power a bit to reduce the possibility of eyestrain, headache, and dizziness. Some professionals don't even back off the power though..
In order to accomplish this task of perfect sharp vision, they add all of these minor corrections. When these ill-fitting lenses are worn for months on end, the body has a somatic response. The eyeballs elongate, which pushes the focal plane back, causing further myopia. [1]
The patient goes back to the eye doctor and now receives an even more incorrect script based on the transient state their eyes are in, induced by a cascading patterned history of harmful scripts.
In the worst case, the eye doctor recommends laser eye surgery which shaves the corneal lens of your eye into an artificial lens. Essentially, they carve your current harmful prescription straight into your eyeball. And then guess what happens? The eyeball shortens and often, the patients vision becomes progressively worse again. It can take months, but it does happen. [2] And now the fix that they recommend? More laser eye surgery. It's barbaric.
So please, do not get eye surgery before trying what I recommend below. Surgery on the cornea is advertised as non invasive but it can cause life long issues such as chronic dry eye. Please try to assess whether your vision is actually bad, or just a transient state due to a long history of bad prescriptions and poor habits.
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How do you break the cycle and restore your vision?
1) First, look at your current script. How asymmetric is it? How small are the cylinder values, if any?
Lower the scripts power and make the prescription symmetric. Remove the minor cylinder values. So for example, if you had -3.6 and -3.4 with some small astigmatism corrections, just ask for a script for -3.4 SPH in both eyes.
2) Make sure the pupillary distance is correct - eye professionals are notorious for fucking this up because the PD needs be to custom set for the frame the lenses will be going in, otherwise you'll have lenses with a focal center that is not aligned with the center of your eyeball. This causes distortion and uneven focus, causing eye strain and worsening vision.
3) Aspheric lenses - buy good lenses like Seiko double aspherics - just like cinema or photo lenses cost a lot of money because they reduce abberation and edge distortion, your eyes benefit from the same technology. Bottom dollar spherical lenses are okay, but strain is not healthy for eyes, and a good $300 set of Seiko transition lenses with coatings can last 10+ years. It's worth your eye health.
4) Have multiple pairs of spectacles. Use the weakest usable one (or no specs) depending on the task you are doing. For instance, I'm on my phone in bed, so I am not using any glasses. This will improve your vision over time. You can slowly reduce the power of your scripts if you care about it. I went from -4.75 to -3.5 and I'm happy with what I'm at, so I don't spend any effort trying to lower any further. But if you have the money, the time, and the will, you can get to -1.X territory through judicious use of a set of activity appropriate lenses.
Lastly, buy your own frame, buy your own pupilary distance tools, buy your own trial lens kit and trial frame like the Oculus UB6. Take time and figure out the right prescription for yourself without it being rushed. Test it and have it remade if the center of focus of the lenses is not at the center of your eyes. PD is integral!
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An eye professional who cares and understands these things CAN help and even properly measure these values but they are rare. Sometimes if you want something done right, you kind of have to do it yourself. Or at the very least, guide or give your demands. After all, you are the paying customer.
Hope this helps others break the cycle of worsening vision. If anyone has any question, feel free to reach out.
[1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK470669/
[2] https://www.webmd.com/eye-health/news/20030410/some-patients...
My optometrist did in fact put having a current prescription as the #1 thing. I’m a lazy guy in some ways but I value what eyesight I’ve got so I go every year on the dot to get my prescription measured by competent professionals.
I asked: “(Given that we have the correct prescription and that my screen usage is unfortunately not likely to go down) what can I do now?”
Cranking up the font size and paying for a solid monitor is obviously mitigation at best: the healthy thing for a guy like me would be to run around and throw spears at moving animals, not live in a glass box staring at a glass panel.
But circumstances being what they are? I can pull a longer stretch more often on the better display without getting a headache than I could before. It’s anecdotal, N=1, but the only subject is me and I’m not selling anything.
Resolution really doesn't matter much when it comes to strain. I have a 2011 2560x1440 27" monitor that I've always used large font on. What's important is being able to see without straining and a larger UI helps. Having higher resolutions is nice but largely unecessary. Blur is not going to happen from making things larger if you do it right. Doing it right means that you shouldn't be changing the actual output resolution of your OS, but rather the interface size itself. On OSX you'll want to use the HiDPI (Retina) resolution options. Enabled through this script: https://github.com/xzhih/one-key-hidpi On Windows you can just set the magnification/font size through the settings panel. This applies to any resolution display -- use the full physical resolution!!
Frame rates are actually more of a factor. 120hz+ is going to cut down on strain. Avoiding PWM [1] on phones, tablets, laptops, and monitors will also help.
But really, the gold standard is for you to wear a different set of spectacles when you do your computer work. You shouldn't need the power of your full prescription to do close up work. It's destroying your eyes.
[1] https://www.notebookcheck.net/Why-Pulse-Width-Modulation-PWM...
TYSM for speaking out!!!
You can read about the double aspherics here:
https://www.2020mag.com/article/double-asphericity-a-freefor...
[1] https://www.seiko-optical.com/fileadmin/media/marketing_shop...
You're making a lot of strong claims that are unsupported or even counterfactual.
E.g.:
> Most cases of myopia (nearsightness), involving progressively worsening vision, are largely due to inaccurate lens prescriptions.
Interesting idea, but what do you have to support this provocative claim?
You argument about minor corrections isn't even logical, which makes me doubt your judgement in any of this.
And it's never a good sign when the citations provided contradict the claims. [1] doesn't support the claims it's attached to. In fact, it says:
"The underlying biological cause of myopia is unknown, and there is no widely accepted means of prevention or cure."
I hope you're not really a practicing optometrist.
For myopia, there's really not much you can do other than ask them their approach to vision correction. For example, do they recommend multiple pairs of glasses for different activities? If they don't, you can immediately cull them or you can use them as a service and give them instructions. Doctors ultimately serve you, and if you want a couple scripts, minor corrections removed, etc. these aren't groundbreaking demands they'll reject.
My workflow is especially dangerous in this regard because I do almost everything in the terminal so it’s especially easy to get sucked in.
I’ve known sightless hackers who were awesome, it’s definitely not game over, but it also definitely slows you down.
For most hackers our eyes and the musculature starting all the way back in your lower spine through to your fingertips is such a huge part of our livelihood. I’ve been trying to treat all of it with more care.
As someone who also mostly works in the terminal and who has stopped wearing glasses thanks to a weird approach, try a pure white or slightly yellowish background with a black font in the daytime.
Most terminal users will find that weird, but among other weird things I tried it worked wonders for me!
Apologies for the anecdote. I know for myself, I sometimes felt a stigma to investing in "nerdy" equipment designed to make computing more sustainable. Almost like if I don't commit to the furniture maybe I will become that out and about person I think I should be. Funnily enough, it was only after I had gotten into a bunch of outdoor hobbies that I decided to really splurge on quality of life equipment at the computer.
I don’t want to speak for you but you said one or two things that echo with me: by hyper-optimizing my workstation to be the most comfortable place in my house I think I sort of feed a tendency to hide from difficult parts of life by just working too much.
I also think you’re onto something about activity, particularly outdoor activity being the best counterweight to that tendency, I just struggle to get an active routine going from a cold start.
Usually if I’m active I can keep it that way, but whether it’s C19 lockdown or a death in the family, it’s very easy to get knocked back into that sedentary state.
Any of that resonate?
But while there are no guarantees it sounded plausible and a few Google searches found other people saying it had helped, the downside is a quite high but not utterly ruinous expense on the thing I look at more than anything else, and even a pretty expensive retail computer monitor would only have to extend my useful eyesight by a comparatively modest period of time to pay for itself.
And while it very well may be placebo, it certainly feels less physically stressful on my eyes and facial muscles, so I don’t regret it even though I’ll have to cut the budget somewhere else.
A quick search for sources led me to this article, which has a nice collection of links to studies for those interested in learning more: https://www.sleepfoundation.org/bedroom-environment/light-an...
Did our far ancestors use blackout curtains? How did they deal with the sun waking them up everyday? My guess is that it's the optimal way to wake up actually.
The forgotten medieval habit of 'two sleeps' -- https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20220107-the-lost-medieva... and the HN post: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=29886907
And Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biphasic_and_polyphasic_sleep
Personally, I have a simple electrical timer set to turn on a bright sunlight bulb at 6:30am, and I open the curtains during the day.
You're right on the money about camping and how it affects the body, in my experience. Light obviously isn't the only factor in camping feeling good - but I've also been reading lately that light exposure (and possibly direct sun exposure?) during the day is quite good for you.
Because alcohol induces REM sleep?
https://www.albertahealthservices.ca/assets/info/amh/if-amh-...
There are other ways to improve your sleep quality as well! Don't use any electronic devices 30 minutes before bed or while in bed. Meditation before bed with deep slow breathing. A nice warm bath or shower. Sleeping on your side if you can.
For me, none of these things helped when I was really struggling with sleep several years ago. It turns out I had severe sleep apnea! If you aren't sleeping well, talk to your doctor and see a sleep specialist. I swear by my CPAP. Both my waking and sleeping life is infinitely better with it treating my severe sleep apnea.
Don't suffer in silence. If you're feeling unwell physically or mentally, talk to a medical professional. So much harm can be minimized and sometimes your ailment can be totally cured!
I spent too many years thinking that was normal, along with daily migraines.
I use them as well.
F.lux and similar software are a better alternative as they just increase the warmth of the screen, which, at least for me, eliminates that feeling of eye pain when computing at night.
Another consideration is that screen brightness should roughly correspond to the ambient brightness of the environment. Unless you work in the dark, that basically requires a light background.
Vibrant text colors on a dark background look attractive (like neon signs), but aren’t very ergonomic in the long run.
Are simpler (e.g. not full RGB) LED lights like this not as common/affordable in other places? I just realized that I really take them for granted.
In fact, I had never even seen a building without these fixtures until I moved into my current apartment (built by Sekisui House in 2019) that for some reason has these horrible in-ceiling, spotlight-esque lights that are common at least in Europe. Whilet they have a somewhat yellow tint, they can not be dimmed. My solution was to grab a standard desk lamp and LED bulbs that came with a simple IR remote, so as not to torture my poor eyes at night.
I found the cool white too full resulting in a dull clinical grey look and ended up replacing them all with dimmable 150mm warm LED downlights.
Even today, as good as LEDs have gotten, their color rendering is still noticeably worse than incandescents. (The highest scores are around 80-90 CRI, an old-fashioned bulb is the standard at 100.)
Trouble dimming smoothly, harsh blues, flickering, strobing, excessive glare… all of these weren’t a problem until CFLs and LEDs, so now we need a bunch of measures to quantify our light.
This is false.
Good quality LEDs are >90 CRI, and the higher end ones are 95+. These are not common because everyone is busy selling/buying the cheapest crap they can make/get, but they're definitely not hard to get either
Ikea Ledare is a widely available >90 CRI bulb. The Ledare is also flicker free and has a metal heatsink base and good reputation for longevity/reliability (on the standard 800lm ones, the higher power ones seem to be more hit-or-miss depending on the exact model). However 99% of people aren't willing to spend $4-5 per bulb.
High end COBs, like the Bridgelux Thrive, are pretty much perfect. Close enough to 100 that the difference doesn't matter. The Thrives have been out for a number of years now. They're not much more expensive than normal LED COBs. These sort of emitters just haven't made their way over to consumer products yet, because (sadly) nobody cares about light quality so there isn't much of a market.
> Good quality LEDs are >90 CRI, and the higher end ones are 95+.
High CRI is fine, but it's not something we should be completely satisfied with:
> R_a is the average value of R1–R8; other values from R9 to R15 are not used in the calculation of R_a, including R9 "saturated red", R13 "skin color (light)", and R15 "skin color (medium)", which are all difficult colors to faithfully reproduce. R9 is a vital index in high-CRI lighting, as many applications require red lights, such as film and video lighting, medical lighting, art lighting, etc. However, in the general CRI (R_a) calculation R9 is not included.
* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index#Special_...
> The most commonly used value of CRI is called Ra, which is the average value of the first eight indices (R1-R8). Lesser-known but more accurate is the extended CRI (Re), which uses the average value of R1-R15 and thus serves as a more accurate measure of color fidelity given that it takes the rendering of more colors into account.
* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-CRI_LED_lighting#CRI,_Ra_...
See:
* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index#Alternat...
* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_quality_scale
High CRI / Ra scores are fine for what they are, but they do not measure the entire 'colour reality', so when the GP says that CRI scores are 'lacking'—even ones in the 90s—they're not wrong. Current LEDs may match the CRI scores of incandescents, but incandescents may still produce results that are better outside of what CRI measures.
Of course this may only matter to those of us who remember incandescents: the younger you are the more likely you lived your life never experiencing incandescent, and so LED is "normal" and "fine".
Regardless: CRI was a decent place to start, but it'd be nice if we could collectively raise the bar.
Light and noise (as in, its absence) make a hell of a difference in our well-being.
I make sure I get plenty of natural light immediately when I wake up and continuously throughout the day.
I set my bulbs to 5000K on full-brightness during the day, then dim and change them to 2200K in the evening. After 10pm I do not use ceiling lights, only lamps with hue bulbs. After midnight I change the lamp bulbs to red and set them to 10% (I use HomeAssistant to make automate all this).
An hour before I go to bed, I use no lights other than a small flashlight with a red LED on the nightlight setting.
I avoid all electronics after midnight other than my kindle on it's lowest light setting.
After making all these changes and sticking to them for 5 months I no longer need to take any sleeping aids which didn't work well anyway. The hardest part was changing when I workout, eat, work, etc. as I was so used to doing all those things overnight for the past 10+ years.
This conversation was very insightful to me: https://vid.puffyan.us/watch?v=oUu3f0ETMJQ I understand some may not like the interviewer, but here is the wiki on Dr. Samer Hattar: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samer_Hattar
In the last 7 years I experimented with everything: ambiental LED strips/string, IKEA Tradfri bulbs, 150W LED COBs, desk lamps, hidden source of light, TV/monitor ambilight.
In the end I settled for very little lighting, created with ESPHome [1], and controlled through my Volum app [2], part of which can be seen in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzz-xrEon7g
1. An RGBW monitor ambient light (bright enough to light up the entire room when I need it)
2. A battery powered string light which I take everywhere with me so I don't have to use overhead lights in Airbnb's/hotels etc.
3. Long, warm and dim string lights for hallway, bedroom and balcony
[1] https://esphome.io/#light-components(I have one of those Philips alarm clocks with the "sunrise" light, but it doesn't light the room enough to wake me.)
Fast forward 5 years and the whole house is automated (and not through the cloud) but the ability to change moods with lights (and lights with moods) and especially have non-white light throughout the house has been amazing.
I can't even remember the last time light was truly bright white except for occasionally in the morning when needing to wake up or when needing to really read and concentrate. Other than that it seems vaguely inhuman to go into a house and be lit up in cold white lights like an interrogation
I would say that once you get over some initial shock about colored lights, sometimes it makes sense to have lights in room half brightness orange-yellows and sometimes it even is nice to have them deep blues and purples and some accent lights are always nice to have somewhat colorful because they are mostly providing ambience and decoration rather than light to do something with
Also moving away from overhead lighting and towards more lamps and wall lighting in rooms has also done wonders. Something about overhead bright lights feels unnatural once you don't have them
Which makes sense being that the only time that sort of light happens outside is at midday in the summer
If I forget to turn it on I always why I feel so gloomy.
Seriously get one, even if your lighting is otherwise nice.
The only benefit I can see is if you cannot touch type and need to see your hands, but isn't key lighting the normal solution to that problem?
PS - I used to work with someone that needed the overhead light on to see their LCD monitor better. I'm still confused by that to this day.
As for cost, yeah it's a bit much for what it is, but the build quality reflects that. The counterweight on the back is quite nice and solid feeling.
In the bedroom I have a dimmable lamp that can be scarcely brighter than candle. It’s great for reading, and for not blinding myself when I need to find something on the bedside table.
Like others, I recommend a big monitor. I use MonitorControl on Mac to adjust it automatically and manually. Night Shift and other orange light filters are a godsend.
Good to know that the author appreciates them as well
>Dark mode
Is crap in practice. 1/10 of your programs needed for a task will not have dark mode. Also most dark modes are high contrast instead of just low brightness. Most programs will suddenly show something bright because they are not cohesively developed (some stupid library will show an unthemed window), and most LCDs cannot be dimmed enough to be used in the dark without straining your eyes (also it will need to be PWM-free which is common now but it is still another constraint). Another fun fact is that if you use a program like redshift to set the color temperature low, the overshoot on a typical LCD will make flashes of white light every time you scroll. The pragmatic solution is to go to bed early, or just do what I do which is to use CRT/OLED and forget about dark modes but set the brightness and color temperature low.
In the UK, and in the EU, standard bulb incandescents are no longer being imported and the current stock is all there is, and as you say CFLs are horrible.
So the options left are halogen (just as bad as CFL imho) or LED. I've resisted LED for ages, but now it seems they are finally good enough to replace incandescents.
I don't think they are as bad as CFL. CFL have really cold dim light with some other phenomena going on. I have seen LEDs that are, though.
> but now it seems they are finally good enough to replace incandescents.
Certainly not on average. Half the time I encounter an LED I notice that it flickers, even without a dimmer. I just bought 4 for $50 thinking I paid enough to get a non-bullshit product, and they flicker and I will have to go try the $60 one next.