Tangle-free magnetic USB cables are here
theverge.com
theverge.com
Magnets were definitely bad for CRTs, because most of them depended on a lightweight metal shadow mask to keep the electron beam from each gun from illuminating the wrong phosphors. If you bring a magnet too close to a shadow-mask CRT, you risk magnetizing the shadow mask (a temporary condition that will eventually be fixed by the normal power-up degaussing cycle), or even warping it, which obviously ruins the tube.
Modern hard disk drives are reasonably tolerant of external magnetic fields. In fact, they contain strong magnets themselves. Again, only a small amount of physical separation is needed to keep those magnets from affecting the media.
Magnets have no effect on normal electronic circuitry, LCDs, or SSDs, unless (again) you go way out of your way to move a very strong one rapidly back and forth at a very close distance. You might be able to induce enough voltage in an unshielded inductor to damage something, if you tried hard enough. I wouldn't be surprised if it's impossible outside of an MRI machine room. Certain inductor cores won't take kindly to being magnetized, so there's some potential for damage there, I guess. Never seen it happen.
A Thinkpad with an SSD seemed to be fine; I'm honestly surprised that it didn't even crash:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXITrgRkT5k&t=6m&list=PLiAlc...
The magnet is strong enough to directly affect the electrons in the CRT, distorting the raster into interesting shapes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yEu2R1gYSs&t=2m20s&list=PLi...
It's so nice to have fast feedback about how heavily you're using a multi-port charger, to see whether your phone or laptop is charging as fast as you'd expect.
It's a pity that devices don't just report their charging figures. In Linux a lot of laptops have really good power reporting; I could tell exactly how fast my laptop is charging. Phones too know. But devices simply don't deign tell consumers what the status is, what's happening. There may be a fast or regular charge... but it's so much less than the real data. For a lot of devices, the last 20% of charge often goes very slow. Knowing that, seeing that, would be good information, for example.
I would be pleased with a world where every device I plugged in could broadcast its energy consumption via the low-bandwidth flavor of HomePlug (a powerline networking standard), with a filter at the breaker to stop external data leakage.
It'd be great to know what's eating the most power, how much capacity I'd need to plan for home solar or battery-backup, identify leaks, etc.
After all, most devices are pretty dumb, and us device designers like it that way. As long as it's optional (meaning I don't have to buy it, because I personally will never use it), go ahead and make the chargers as complicated as you please.
You'd want some type of aggregation protocol, so that power-distribution devices can send more granular data up the chain, but yeah, it'd make more sense to build this into said devices: outlets, power strips, chargers, and so on.
I would prefer having a separate meter, so that I can place it first at the power source, then at the cable end, to know if a malfunctioning device could be the result of a flimsy cable producing a significant voltage drop. This is a very common scenario when using dubious quality cables.
I have never heard of such a thing but I'm interested; any brand you can recommend?
It finishes with:
> Or, if I’m really dreaming, how about 40Gbps for USB 4? Let’s go for broke and make the ultimate cable — give it a built-in power meter while you’re at it.
Links to https://www.theverge.com/2022/1/28/22907150/usb-c-pd-cable-p...
At least, that's been the case with the ones I've used, which are the 1 m and 1.5 m power cables from Pine64 intended for their soldering iron. No idea what spec they are, other than that they support the iron's max 60 W and provide at least some data transfer ability.
They have 16 pins, missing the differential RX/TX pairs. So, according to Wikipedia either USB 2.0 or 1.1?
https://pine64.com/product-category/pinecil/
Edit: Just realized I've been using the hook-and-loop strap, so perhaps they haven't had a chance to become really tangled. But that's the sensible alternative to magnets! Packs of them cheap and work on any cable. It also seems like always folding a cable the same way doesn't cause the long-term damage that repeated tight (non over-under) coiling does, since the insulation doesn't get twisted when it's pulled straight.
EDIT: Nope! See the replies.
If you coil it so tightly that the heat can't get out, that could be problematic, but it is not likely to be a problem with this coiling technique.
I guess the warnings about not running loads of current through coiled cables are more to do with heat dissapation then?
Is there any risk of hitting a “critical mass of consumer magnets” that makes screwing with other technology far more likely?
Like, if every darn product I own tries to solve problems cleverly with magnets, suddenly I’ve got powerful magnets everywhere.
I guess it’s good I don’t have VHS anymore.
I'm biased towards thinking it does not offset, but I'm not sure, I haven't done the math nor read of someone else's
I'm just mad because that phrase you put in quotes sums up how people jump to conclusions before even caring on doing the math, as if decisions shouldn't depend on the outcome of those calculations
Most of visceral complains about plastics comes to mind, if you read from someone that has done some barely competent calculations and investigations, you realize that most of what should be done is to avoid the use of plastics near bodies of water, and only in the cases where the math says it's a good trade-off
Even without the magnetic connection, the right angle works much better for me than straight out.
I think it's more likely that it wouldn't work for a USB 3/TB dock thing as I imagine the high-frequency signal integrity is trashed by such a thing.
Once I had a large visible arc to the USB C port of my phone. It was off afterwards and wouldn't start, which was scary, but turned out fine after taking the battery out and putting it back in. Someone know how that could have happened?