It depends who you follow. I only follow people I think are funny so now my Twitter feed is almost entirely toxicity-free. If you follow political accounts then you're gonna get hit with the toxic firehose
Now I exfiltrate the good stuff with Nitter RSS feeds, and that way I get the experience you say you like about Twitter.
The only sane way to use Twitter is through a 3rd-party client: no ads, none of that Notifications spam and other recommendations