UpNote is my recommendation for an Evernote replacement:
Cross-platform, and it feels like what Evernote was back in the day: a simple note-taking app with a beautiful UI.
I replaced Evernote with it a few months ago, and it's been a daily driver since. It was first recommended to me on /r/evernote, a subreddit that has basically been echoing the OP's concerns about Evernote for the last two years it looks like.