Right, but that’s not a counterexample. The bitter lesson suggests that, eventually, it’ll be difficult to outperform a learning system manually. It doesn’t say that this is always true. DeepBlue _was_ better than all other chess players at the time. But now, AlphaZero is better.
I believe the same is true for neural network architecture search: at some point, learning systems will be better than all humans. Maybe that’s not true today, but I wouldn’t bet on that _always_ being false.