The Design System is here: https://design-system.service.gov.uk/get-started/
where did you get that other url
In this case to a proper government domain... aha, I bet there's some policy against pointing .gov.uk hostnames to a third-party platform?
Some guidance that might be relevant: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/use-your-govuk-domain-name?step-...
I agree it looks cheesy and makes me wonder if it's really official government documetnation, without a .gov.uk hostname (and SSL cert, naturally).
Am I misunderstanding something?
All design elements and controls are excessively large and bloated. Negative space is liberally applied everywhere.
USWDS strikes a good balance.
The last thing you should ever want is for someone to fail to apply for welfare benefits because they were overwhelmed by the website design.
I agree that the cookie banner could be smaller though.
There is room for well designed, compact UI that is also accessible. It is not that strict of a trade-off as you suggest.