The required draw is too high.
The required draw is too high.
Another thing to keep in mind: with gas about half the energy heats the air and flows around the pot or pan, so it ends up being about 50% efficient.
But with all said, the carbon monoxide buildup issue was what swayed me in the end.
I was rather talking about the required instantaneous draw which is usually too high for an average household's Solar setup.
I’m planning to install solar and was thinking around 3KW with battery backup. I definitely want induction cooking.
Should I get more capacity? Bigger batteries? Fewer burners?
[Edit: bigger batteries seems to be the answer, also because of cooking at night.]
Just need a grid-powered charger for the battery to replace the sun with if you worry about running out of electricity to cook.
[Edit: it's off the grid, only gets water, and I want to keep it that way in principle.]
If you have the charging top voltage at/below the peak of 240V mains (which is sqrt(2) higher than the rms of 240V), you can get away with using the load's voltage-adaptive power supply to handle the varying battery voltage. This will work with resistive heaters (no simple thermostats, though; "electronic trailing edge phase cut dimmer" is the technology needed, but with adapted control to work like a normal PWM), but resistive light bulbs would burn out.
There are plug standards similar to the ones used on computer power supplies that are rated as DC variants.
Feel free to stay in contact; I am looking for making use of local solar power for electronic loads that make up most of my electricity usage once I can spend the appropriate money on it, and combining it with UPS functionality as that's rather cheap to add.
Lithium batteries like you find in electric cars probably can support this but it does require a certain additional upfront investment.
The all-electrical all-self-produced setup probably isn't viable without a large enough battery and inverter.
I have to note that it is rated at 2000w at max setting (6), but due to it being so potent, we've never had it set to more than 3 out of 6, anything above that is way too aggressive. So make it 1000w typical draw.
In our kitchen we have both. Items heat faster with less heating of nonessential surrounding areas vs. standard burners.
My guess is cooking aside solar generation is probably not going to be by itself a sufficient source of household power for the foreseeable future. In any case optimizing use of electric energy requires taking advantage of the best available technologies.
https://www.inductioncooked.com/how-much-electricity-does-in...
You don't always have to start out with every burner on high!
If I remember correctly, my comment was based on an average household with about 4 to 5 KW installed in western Europe.
This represents about 12 panels which is roughly the maximum amount of panels a regular house has space for.
The first one I looked the specs up on at my home center has a 4.8kW largest element and 8.6kW total. https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/d9/d92c8678-a...
I'm not even sure if my entire house has a breaker for more than 32A.
Also maybe you want to use the oven and AC and charge the car at the same time etc. As far as I understand, it's a plus and minus calculation. It's not any kind of compatibility issue...
Naturally big electric power sinks need bigger voltages, otherwise the current and thus the cabling would get very thick.
Cooktop with induction cooking zones:
Right front: 8” – 2300W, booster 3200W.
Left front: 8” – 2300W, booster 3200W.
Left rear: 7” – 1800W, booster 2600W.
Right rear: 7" - 1800W, booster 2600W.
Center: 10” – 2500W, booster 3800W.
Voltage: 240/208V.
Connection rating: 15400W.
Current: 40A.
So yeah, if you are in the habit of routinely maintaining four pots of water at a furiously rolling boil you probably will have problems. The rest of us are likely to be pretty safe.
Maybe a home however is lacking the battery intermediary.