The devops experience is fine -- I can wrap up PWAs for all the devices (PCs and phones) in the family. Need to set up a few systemd timers to synchronize data, build indices and check for PhotoPrism app updates but that's not too bad. Docker makes deployment super easy.
The user experience, hmm, modern, minimalism, tolerable.
Modern = it knows about iPhone live photos and all sorts of photo metadata; has machine learning for classification. Recognizes faces. etc.
Minimalism = just a viewer, no photo editing (Picasa photo editing and the ability to put an album together into one picture totally rocks)
Tolerable = meh classification precision, slow geotagged map (dreaming of Picasa + Google Earth), NextCloud iOS autoupload constantly breaks (you want non-iCloud cloud on iOS and you're not a megacorp huh? good luck) etc.
Conclusion? It has been a decade since Picasa is gone. I'd expect a lot more improvements to happen, but in reality, the best thing we have now is just that. Some good, some bad, some ugly.