Someone should probably start a bright home lighting company (2019)
lincolnquirk.com
lincolnquirk.com
Been using one of those in my office for the last eight years or so. I use a server PSU for power.
I was surprised to see how bright it is when I once went outside while it was on. Not only was my window the brightest in the entire street by far. But it actually illuminated the trees around my window.
If I was to build it again - and especially for a place like living room - , I would build it so as to also simulate sunset. That is to say, that it will automatically lower the brightness and shift to a warmer spectrum in the evening. Otherwise, this thing messes with your biorhythm and gets you out of sync with normal daylight hours very quickly.
And sleep: I don’t have any trouble sleeping, no. But as I mentioned, using a such a bright light in the evening will fuck with your day/night rhythm. If I’m not diligent to turn off those lights at sunset, I’ll easily be working up until two or three in the morning. If that happens, the problem isn’t that I wouldn’t be able to sleep (I will) or that I would sleep badly (I won’t). It’s just that it shifts my rhythm out of sync with everybody else.
For your sunset approximation, you could add some warmer ones and fade over; they also have some dual-color strips with two different color temperatures evenly spread to allow for seamless mixing.
(I'm using a 20W/m 5m strip of BC-series 1900K for my living room, along with a 10W 4000K bulb hanging from the ceiling.)
> Been using one of those in my office for the last eight years or so. I use a server PSU for power.
And as you mention, articles on it have been circulating for even longer.
For me the breaking point was Roko's Basilisk, a self-proclaimed "most-dangerous idea of our time".
Also, you should read anything Yudkowsky himself has written about Roko’s basilisk. He’s never claimed that it could work, or that it’s dangerous at all.
(“Why did he ban it then?” Because he wanted to prevent it from inspiring an infohazard brainstorming session that could produce a real danger, and he apparently hadn’t heard about the Streisand effect.)
(This is not the same thing as “being certain that a minor modification of Roko’s basilisk would produce an evil time-travelling AI,” to be clear.)
A: "I have the most ground-breaking idea ever!"
B: "Okay, let's hear it?"
A: "No, it's too dangerous, it may well destroy the world, but trust
me it's brilliant and completely novel."
It's a religion at that point.I believe that there are other ideas like that, things that set up spirals that are a lot worse than just "destroy energy to make money". Obviously they're not going to be universally compelling, an idea that's dangerous like that in one context might be perfectly safe in another. It depends on the target audience.
That's a good point on its own, but it's not a response. At no time did I or anyone here in this thread assert that "info hazards" do not exist. What is being discussed is whether it's worthwhile to be deferential to a person/community who is making claims of being in possession of an exceptionally catastrophic piece of information that by its nature would preclude public scrutiny on ethical grounds.
>At no time did I or anyone here in this thread assert that "info hazards" do not exist.
>What is being discussed is whether it's worthwhile to be deferential to a person who is making claims
It's honestly really not that clear what you're trying to discuss, certainly you haven't been making a clear statement like that. I don't think anyone is making claims of being in possession of such an infohazard for one thing, and if there were I don't think anyone would be saying you should be deferential towards someone who claimed to have one, sight unseen.
I think you're arguing with a bit of a straw man? Like no one is being all "let's be deferential towards Yudkowsky because he has the idea equivalent of a nuke". He doesn't, to the best of my knowledge, claim to have the idea equivalent of a nuke.
I assumed you were claiming that info-hazards don't exist because otherwise what exactly are you claiming?
Anyway, if that was your point, granted. Let's not be differential towards people who claim to have info-hazards, unless they can go into a room and make someone laugh themselves to death or something.
Well, he isn't willing to reveal how he convinced his opponents to let the AI out of the box.
It's not a waste if the product the PoW generates is valued as equal to or greater than the cost of generating the PoW, and the market ensures that is the case, as miners cannot operating at a loss.
Where it can be socially harmful is when energy consumers don't pay for the cost of the negative externalities that the energy they purchase created in its generation, but that applies to all energy usage, not just that used in generating PoW.
You should know that costly signalling strategies are widely employed in nature because costly signals are reliable:
> Where it can be socially harmful is when energy consumers don't pay for the cost of the negative externalities that the energy they purchase created in its generation, but that applies to all energy usage, not just that used in generating PoW.
Bitcoin alone uses as much power as a medium-sized nation. The increased power usage has caused old fossil-fuel power plants to come back online.
2. Money laundering can improve economic efficiency when the crimes that generate the illicit revenue are socially beneficial, as is the case when people in China escape the Communist government's capital controls, or when people in Venezuela escape their Communist government's steep inflation tax via mandates to use the state's fiat currency.
Even in ostensibly free societies, socially harmful laws that repress the right to voluntarily interact, like price controls on N95 masks that prolonged a shortage in them for months, or heavy taxation to pay the pensions of a bloated and over-paid public sector kleptocracy, can be socially beneficial to undermine.
So your deduction that money laundering or other forms of escape from institutional rules, is socially harmful, is overly simplistic. In some cases it is harmful, and in some cases it's beneficial.
3. Cryptocurrencies are by definition not ponzi schemes. You could argue they're speculative bubbles, but that is itself speculation.
>>Bitcoin alone uses as much power as a medium-sized nation.
Because it generates billions of dollars of currency a year, and its production is costly in energy and affordable in labor. The energy consumption of labor-intensive industries obfuscates the real energy requirements of those industries, by effectively outsourcing the energy consumption to the workers.
>Elevator pitch: Bring enough light to simulate daylight into your home and office.
>This idea has been shared in Less Wrong circles for a couple years. Yudkowsky wrote Inadequate Equilibria in 2017 where he and his wife invented the idea
As I don't bring up the rest of the article's points, I am neither supporting nor refuting them with that particular comment.
Math (or actually, logic) is a bit more resilient than you make it out to be.
If I wanted to, I'd probably go and research prior art first before making use of the word.
Also, I'd say that the article author is not referring just to brighter light as the invention, but rather as the use of extremely bright light indoors for different psychological effects.
The OP made a claim ("invented in 2017"), and this very claim is being criticized.
I found perplexing that you interpret the very same words in almost opposite ways.
If humans spend same proportion of income on lumens, and you get more lumens per watt, then you will use less wattage per the same proportion of income. Ergo LEDs are more efficient.
Adds up considering the proliferation of computing devices, particularly cryptomining.
(Also, they were specifically doing it as a treatment for SAD; I don't think Yudkowsky claims novelty for anything other than the idea that SAD might be effectively treated by having very bright indoor lighting all the time rather than e.g. a lightbox that you sit next to for half an hour a day.)
https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamapsychiatry/article-abst...
So, I'm gonna read between some lines here, but: I imagine earlier efforts would then by necessity have produced less light, because it's actually a lot easier to deal with ~400-500 watts of incandescent light than 1500 watts of incandescent light. 400-500 I think you could just about get away with putting a diffusion screen in front of them and making sure the enclosure has a lot of passive air flow. At 1500, if you're going to enclose this into a reasonably-sized product you're going to need active cooling with fans.
And there is a little noticed and rarely talked about weakness I've seen in several science fields where I've dug into a history of papers, which is that once one investigator picks the parameters of an investigation, it tends to "stick". If the first scientist investigating "Light therapy for SAD" and picked a 500 watt incandescent setup, it is extremely likely that many further papers will try to match their lumens setup, in the interests of trying to keep the papers informing each other. The entire therapy may live and die on the contingent conditions the first couple of researchers happened to pick, even after the entire lighting landscape has changed and it's practical to blast 5 times the light per watt and have time-varying light temperature now, which would have been even more difficult in 1984. (Conceivable, with some sort of rotating filter screen in front of it, but now you're cutting in to your light output even more, unlike modern LEDs which give you more options in dealing with this.)
You could say he's going overboard in this one, with that fish tank sky simulator thing. But then: How much do we spend on airfare and lodging just to wake up to this kind of light? What an amazing improvement in quality of life this can be.
Thanks for sharing this one!
$20 each, https://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lumen-4-ft-led-hanging-sh... 5k lumens, 60w
I also came to post the DIY perks video about simulated sunlight, the effect of parallel rays really changes the geometric mood of the room.
Just don't keep working into the night under them, because whoa boy - talk about sleep disruption. Those nice bright lights make it surprisingly easy to work until 6am and not even realize it.
Fluorescent tubes are among the worst offenders for messing with my concentration, though anything with a pronounced 50 Hz flicker or too high a colour temperature isn't great for me. The kind of cheap lights offices traditionally use are particularly bad which is part of why I'm full time WFH now!
I won't cite, but only because i don't have a way to index my personal PDF repository, but the common consensus among people who study such things is that anyone living above the 20th parallel (or below, technically) absolutely must supplement vitamin D3, as even a full day in the sun naked is not enough to synthesize the amount of D3 we need.
So with that in mind, I'd honestly expect more people to know this and be supplementing D3. I don't have any specific recommendations, but i do know some guidelines and recent discoveries into "max dosing", so here they are. Anecdotally, i take 5000-6000iu every two days. I have a weird sleeping schedule so i really only notice "a day" as the sort of fog and fatigue i get after having gone more than 30 hours without D3. Prior to about 2015 or so, the max dosage was in the sub-5000iu range, with most supplement's labels stating that 500-1000iu was the "RDA" for D3.
However since covid was exponentially responsible for research into literally anything that could help alleviate symptoms/the disease and accelerate the time to recovery, some doctors were giving extremely high iu, up to 250,000iu over the course of a few days, or single doses of 50,000-80,000iu, with no deleterious effects reported.
Personally, unless i actually get sick, i try to stay under 8000-10000iu, at least until someone does a longitudinal study about the long term effects of doses higher than that.
As to the article and your point about lights helping - i've never noticed anything about any sort of light. I can feel awful at noon on a clear day while outside, or awful inside under every light type imaginable. I'm glad that light (and types of lights) help some people. I just think that the root cause is D3 deficiency, and no amount of 20k lumen arrays is really going to help.
As a quick aside, if you want to supplement children with D3 i recommend finding chewable d3 or a childrens multi-vitamin with omega-3/6 fatty acids. A couple of studies (with decent N and correlations) showed that merely supplementing omegas in children's diets improved the relationship and overall wellbeing of the children's parents - you read me right, parents didn't have to supplement to get the benefits of the children supplementing.
I've always been wary of going up to max-dose levels for that reason.
as mentioned though, i only think that 500-1000iu is not enough for most people. I'm not a doctor though, but it is one avenue of alleviating SAD as well as lethargy and stuff that most people vape/smoke/caffeinate to deal with.
It's a good idea to get your vitamin D status tested yearly and aim to be at least 50 ng/ml (120 nmol/l), but not more than 80 ng/ml (200 nmol/l).
As an example for dosages: I take about 7000 IU of vitamin D3 and 180 mcg of vitamin K2 daily. My levels test at about 180 nmol/l and my blood calcium is normal.
It may also be worth adjusting dosage between winter and summer months, depending on the amount of outdoor activity you do.
edit: it could be 25th or 30th, i have a hard time finding a single paper amongst thousands, either way it includes 90% of the population of the US, regardless of what parallel.
The lamp helped for a while but the suicidal urges kept creeping back over the years, until I finally moved back south. The urge to kill myself has pretty much entirely vanished now.
There is, I suspect, no one single cure for seasonal depression. Lights help, massive D3 doses help, vacations in sunnier places help, and there’s probably a ton of other biological factors helped by me living in the sunny place I grew up in versus Seattle.
I realized the lighting factor a few years back. Now, My own home has two lights in every room and whenever I am studying/reading/cooking, I always have them both on.
The difference is stark. Perhaps I am clutching my pearls when I say this, but I feel my quality of life has improved with better lighting.
I also got my walls painted with very light colors, and the ambient light is just amazing.
Good lighting is a blessing.
For led lighting, 20W (ceiling fittings) for every 100 sf in rooms with light walls provides a lot of illumination in my experience. Can double that for kitchens etc.
Does the entire space need to be well lit - or the object of your focus (which can require the entire scene (such as a lab etc) - but when it comes to reading and computing. If you have a spot on your book or your computer that was of the sun-like quality, (obviously without glare on screens), would that suffice to aid in focus and retention.
I assume that a well lite complete space serves a more biological soothing and depression help.
So it would be interesting to know if there are differing applications of sun-like light based on the goals.
At late actual night, a sun-like spotlight on your focus might be good. When you're up and active, then light the whole space...
By the way, the sun produces ~50.000 lux on earth's surface. That's 100 times more than in a wall illuminated office. To reach that brightness, you would need tens of kilowatts of LED lightning for medium and larger sized rooms. That's totally infeasible. Also, imagine the heat building up. It will literally be like a greenhouse in your room. So in reality, no one actually aims for the brightness of the sun. But just something fairly bright at a high ('cool') color temperature. That produces the same sensation.
And surely for them, you can see the horror of such large amounts of light being funneled, being reflected back and forth, over and over. So no, most assuredly, he does not look at the Earth!
Either way, I think the best way to deal with bright light isn't a brighter screen. It's an unlit screen, like e-ink or something.
The eyes adapt to brighter backlights but you end up not being able to see your desk.
One major annoyance is that eye floaters become a lot more prominent the smaller your pupils are.
Sunlight is free, but electric light is not. This is why light in my apartment is very bright but not nearly as bright as the streets on a sunny summer day.
You could achieve that with 750W of LEDs. Of course, that is still quite a lot of power.
NOTE: Be extremely careful when transporting/moving these units, they easily break. The supplier who imported them on my behalf got two shipments with broken units until they finally got one that wasn't damaged. This happened despite FRAGILE markings on the packaging.
Innerscene's Virtual Sun is much smaller and lighter than the classic Coelux.
Coelux:
Weight: 300 kg (660 lb)
Dimensions: 2375 x 1675 x 691 mm (93.5 x 65.9 x 27.2")
Innerscene Virtual Sun:
Weight: 39 kg (85.8 lbs)
Dimensions: 1001 x 514 x 255 mm (39 7/16 x 20 1/4 x 10")I paid 89239 SEK (~9349 USD) +25% VAT = 111549 SEK (~11685 USD) per unit.
Not sure about the VAT rate if buying from US.
Hopefully they have reduced the prices since then, not sure.
L70 ≥50,000 hours at 25°C ambient
L70 is "An LED is considered to have reached its rated life at that point in time when it emits 30% less light than it initially did. This 70% brightness level is termed “L70” and may also be referred to as Lumen Maintenance." (https://nunvdata.unvlt.com/uploads/Understanding_L70_and_Why...)Such a thing already exists. Its called a lighting design company.
People need to admit that lighting (like cryptography) is hard, and that if you're serious about "doing it right" you need to bring in a suitably skilled professional.
Each house/apartment is different and every room within it is different, you'll never be able to magically buy good lighting out of the box to be installed on a plug and play basis.
So if you are already undergoing the expense of a full-refurb and are serious about getting the lighting right, then really you should throw a few coins in the direction of a lighting professional.
Because people with rare diseases are willing to pay a lot of money for stuff sold by snake-oil peddlers after they have been let down by the traditional healthcare system, and other than people with SAD there's not much of a market for these things.
They're just ignored because no one has figured out how to solve it (or that it is a problem for them).
I used to live in Finland where the winters are dark and long and lots of my colleagues had these in their offices. The first time I saw one (a Philipps bright light), I thought it was some kind of fancy new Apple device I did not know yet. Until they turned it on. Highly effective apparently in countering winter depression, which is a common thing that far North.
Basically you use them for 30 minutes or so in the morning. You actually need to be careful with this as you can damage your eyes. I checked on Amazon and you can get loads of different products in this category for under 50 euro or pay a premium for something bigger/fancier. E.g. Beurer has an ipad sized 10K lux solution: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/daylight-simulation-intensity-dis.... I can't vouch for any of these products since I don't need or use them though.
Personally, I prefer to just take a walk when my calendar permits. It's good for multiple reasons and also re-energizes me while lowering stress. Just a 45 minute stroll does wonders; I do longer walks when time permits as well. I live in Germany these days so, it's less dark in the winter here and it did not really affect me that much even when I was living in Finland. I noticed my colleagues from further south were suffering a lot more; or at least moaning more about it.
And I am always dumbfounded when I see the actual results. Even back when software available today, Blender, Sketchup and other design software did not exist ; lighting designers were REALLY good at coming up with nice lighting designs...
Now with the advent of these tools, lighting design today is lightyears from where it was a decade ago - but its still HARD to do well.
One point that stood out is that effective and safe lighting is as much, or more, about contrast than any absolute spot lighting levels.
I think in terms of cost what the OP is not realizing is that when you are talking about hundreds of watts of LEDs, that is a lot of heat that is very concentrated. It takes a thoughtful design and active cooling to ensure the fixture is safe and the LEDs are kept at the proper temperates to maximize their life and performance. You don't really need to worry about active cooling when you have a few low wattage LED bulbs spread throughout a room. But cram a ton of them together in a small area and you absolutely do.
As you can see, heat management is a prime feature of these lights, and the quality in general is absolutely amazing (it’s priced accordingly, though).
The light was blindingly bright to look at and it looks very strange in a room.
My takeaway was:
* that you need some type of diffuser.
* The light leak out of the apartment was crazy. My apartment looked completely insane from the street.
* The light warmth is very important. And proper sun coloured lamps don't exist or are crazy expensive.
I have 8 lamps with CRI 90+ in my living room, at 5000K color temperature, 1500 lumens each. They produce nice light that seamlessly mixes with daytime sunlight from the window: they seem to have the same color.
I also have a few LED strip installation over desks and tables, very bright at max dimmer setting. A diffuser is a must, even though it lowers the brightness noticeably. Without it, anything moderately shiny will reflect painfully bright dots of light.
<90: Crap
90-95: Can be ok, or not. Depends. Different lights will likely not mix at the same color temperature.
98: Good
99-100 full spectrum cyberlight: As good as Halogen and only ~30x as expensive.
SSI - spectrum similarity index - is probably a better measure, because it doesn't look at a few colors, but at the entire spectrum, and so heavily punishes peaky and discontinuous spectra as produced by many LEDs. High SSI values also result in much better mix-and-match behavior of light sources. Even CRI 95 LEDs often don't mix well, usually on the pink-barf-scale (tint).
http://www.seoulsemicon.com/en/technology/sunlike/casestudy/
They claim to have a CRI of 97. They're dimmable and claim to be circadian-rhythm-friendly by not having a "blue spike", but don't claim to dim to a warmer tone.
Bought 21 of them for use with the 7-bulb splitter that Ben Kuhn now recommends, linked elsewhere in this thread: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FKIE6M4/ref=as_li_ss_tl...
Downside is you need a 70A 28V power supply and a semi-massive cooling system. And bulb lifetime is approx. 1 year of normal use.
1) Most modern LEDs are surprisingly good for being sun-colored. It's luck-of-the-draw, though. I once bought some very expensive CFL bulbs from B&H, rated as 90+CRI, and they were literally tritone. I bought some bottom-of-the-barrel LED bulbs at Walmart, and they were great (until they started failing a few months later).
2) You can test this yourself with a $1 pair of diffraction glasses. They're sold as "3d" or "rainbow" or similar kids toys at dollar stores, or with a shipping markup Fleabay.
3) Diffuser is important, but it's also possible to just install many bulbs all around.
4) Consistency is important. If your hallway feels dimmer or brighter than your room, it's not great.
5) Changing color temperature is nice.
I don't think there's a business model here, though. This stuff isn't expensive, but most of the cost is educating the customer. Once a customer is educated, they can do the same thing themselves without your help (even with cheap Walmart lights).
I'm reading between the lines here: I think you want to see as continuous a spectrum as is possible with LEDs, not three discrete bands (R, G, B)?
I know LED are not spectrally continuous like incandescent (black body) radiation. Maybe the phosphor coating excites in a more continuous spectrum?
> I don't think there's a business model here, though.
I disagree. I would pay a premium if a company could offer a line that hit the mark on all points: temperature, brightness, spectrum, non-flickering.
My alternatives today appear to be a kind of roulette. And a lot of money is wasted at roulette....
You're correct that the alternatives now are a kind of roulette. A new company would add one more bullet (or empty chamber) into the barrel. There is no way for a customer to know "Company X solves this problem correctly." If you run LightBulbX and do everything right, and I run LumiNosiTechNo and have the same marketing pages as you, people won't know better.
If reputation builds up somehow, LightBulbX is just as liable to get bought up by an investor who milks that reputation by selling $2 products for $1000.
A value proposition isn't the same as a viable business model. I think there's a clear value proposition which many people would in abstract pay for in an abstract world of perfect transparency and information, but we're not in that world. I don't think there's a viable business model.
If you do, please don't sell to private equity right away. Let us all get a couple years of a real solid product at least.
I'm still pissed at the (well known brand) USB stick I bought (marked high speed!) due to shitty engineering would overheat on any transfer longer than about 10 seconds, then throttle to KB/s read/write speed. Average speed was 1.5MB/s.
So besides pushing all the stuff he had stashed away and doing some feats of organization there, I put some extremely bright led lamp pointing from the window to the rest of the room, flooding it with white light that made it as bright as day. It was really cheap off my local Home Depot-equivalent.
It really fixed my mood, fewer intrusive thoughts, less of a depressive state, more tranquility, if I had rougher times, psychotic episodes for instance, it would also calm them.
Years later I'm much better, and though things aren't easy, they only get better as I put grow lights and plants in what otherwise would be a dark apartment (I get the white ones that advertise a broad spectrum light but doesn't go into ultraviolet on a local hardware store, rather than the purple ones that everyone is putting on their apartments on NY). I reclaim the space room by room with brightness and plants.
Here's some more:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/decorative-ceiling-....
https://www.amazon.com/Artika-Residential-Ultra-Thin-Dimmabl...
That $30k Coelux thing they mention is quite a bit more than “some bright bulbs”. Their lighting casts sharp shadows. If you look into it, you see a bright sky with an image of the sun (https://www.cepro.com/news/coelux_the_40000_fake_skylight_ev...)
I think rich people will easily pay that for such a thing.
Discussed here: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=21660718
However, there is now an update on the blog where he seems to have independently switched to the "lumenator" system as described in the links on today's post:
> Update 2020-11-16: For my home, I ended up switching from the corncob bulb to three 7-way splitters and 21 100W equivalent 5000K Cree bulbs from Home Depot.
Most homes where I come from have a large, flat lamp in the center of the ceiling of each room that evenly illuminates the entire room. Large spaces may have more than one such lamp. In the past, this was accomplished with a bunch of fluorescent tubes arranged to look like a single large lamp. These days, it's all LED. People also put lamps on the bedside table, above the dining table, and other places they want to accentuate, but it's always in addition to, not instead of, the large ceiling lamp.
Most of the American/Western homes I've been to don't have a single bright light in the living room or any bedroom, relying more often on several low-temperature lamps scattered around the space. It looks really nice, it's perfect for watching movies, and it may have been more energy-efficient in the past. But it's just so damn dark, especially if the room doesn't face the sun.
Have you seen anyone successfully build a RGBW+Amber array that matches their results?
I built my living room lighting myself using a Raspberry Pi, a PCA9685 PWM IC (on one of those convenient little boards), a couple of MOSFETs and resistors on a breadboard, wiring (obviously), and fifteen lighting armatures that each have LEDs arranged on a square of about 15 cm². The LEDs are all of the 5050 RGBWW type (red, green, blue, and warm white), where the warm white LEDs perform the bulk of normal lighting. These are all mounted on the ubiquitous 12 mm 12 V LED strips, and are glued to an aluminium backplane, in nine parallel strips of 15 cm (9 LED components each). Each armature unit is covered by an MDF frame with a diffuser plate with a high light transmission suitable for LEDs, and the frames snap on to the armature units with magnets (that works really well and looks really good).¹²
This works well for such an amateur setup, but the two main issues are attrition due to heat death (presumably), and a wish for a little more lumens output. So for the next generation of these I want to keep the same form factor, but I'm thinking of making custom (replaceable!) PCBs with RGB LEDs and separate warm whites LEDs on an aluminium-backed PCB (JLCPCB can manufacture this type); keeping the nine-parallel-strips layout, but foregoing the backplane to allow heat to dissipate in the space between ceiling drywall and the floor above.
What I'm stuck on is how to find out where to source the warm-white LED SMD components that are actually good and not just tolerable. That is, good light colour, high CRI, etc, and where to get them as a consumer. Does anyone know which communities on the Internet know this?
Still a bit of a learning curve there regarding working with SMDs and designing PCBs, but that's part of the fun.
1: Testing progress in 2017: https://twitter.com/jdhoek/status/828319063097143297
2: Finished with their diffuser covers; three of the units are visible here (note that the ceiling beading trim is still missing — long since finished of course): https://twitter.com/jdhoek/status/885499829052485632/photo/2
Unless you're well-versed in PCB thermal management design, I wouldn't attempt designing your own LED boards - get prefab units like those sold by https://www.ledsupply.com/ , which you can screw directly onto a heatsink. And if you really do want to design a custom board, the emitters LEDSupply packages are a good place to start--there are only a handful of manufacturers for high-quality high-brightness diodes and they pretty much stock them all. You can find Cree XLamp LEDs for example at any of the major component retailers.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLOJU8YJjFwGN0hMRewz2_u2Ie...
One of my favorite places on earth is my marijuana grow and the incredible amount of beautiful light they grow under. I’ve contemplated a scaled down version in my house. I could grow plants all over the place under the lighting like being outside, no matter what the season.
That was my pitch for nuclear power.
Power waste is an issue - at times where there is oversupply, wholesale power prices can actually go negative and at that point there is an excess of power in the network which cannot be stored and if it's not consumed will lead to electrical damage. So people actually get paid to waste power. Ever seen a sports stadium with all the lights blazing late at night even though noone is there? They are one of the groups who take advantage of negative power prices. There are also places where there are literally resistors placed along the ground to sink excess electricity (as heat) into the earth during these times.
When you say "eventually they will make it cheap" that seems likely to be a misconception also. Power production is not like manufacturing. Although innovation can lead to increases in efficiency and therefore reduced cost, inefficiency is not the limiting factor on power cost.
Perhaps I should stop trying to talk on hacker news at all.
"commercially available LED light sources (for horticultural or other applications) can be considered human safe when designed, installed and used in accordance with the applicable standards, regulations and manufacturer’s instruction"
https://www.valoya.com/the-effect-of-led-grow-lights-on-huma...
It is not even the level of darkness outside, but the direction of the level change: I need my lamp from October to January (or when I have a gig in Norway in the winter) but already at the start of February I feel the light coming back, even though it is as dark outside as at the end of November
So, in summary: it is more about the timing of the light than the amount (but YMMV, of course)
Generally, you always have a trade-off here: If you want to get rid of the harsh point-like light sources, you have to add a diffuser, and then you get indirect light. But too diffused, and you get the feeling of sitting in a studio or in a bright cave. I think having a window or a skylight with parallel, non-diffused light and letting the reflections on the walls diffuse it is probably the most natural-looking solution.
The holy grail would be something that has the size of a picture frame, and you can slap below the ceiling, to fake a roof window.
If you combine a good fresnel lens with some clever mechanics or a micro mirror array light source, I wonder if you could even make the angle move over the day? Using fresnel lenses, you could also split it up into multiple cells, to make cooling easier. But I guess in the end there is a reason why the commercial system costs $30.000 and takes more than a foot of thickness.
If everyone wanted that, I don't think the nation could even produce that much power.
Otherwise, Cree is one of the best home bulb brands.
I loved it, for a while. It felt like a fresh bright day. However, after some months of 12 hours a day of working in this environment, I started having pain in my eyes, almost as if they were being squeezed.
This discomfort persisted for a month after I left my office (took a DN work-cation in the Caribbean). As I began looking into this, I started reading about issues with blue light. I found suggestions that too much blue light was harmful. And likely me spending 12+ hours looking at bright monitor screens was also harmful.
After returning from my trip, I removed most of my lights and turned my monitor brightness way down. Since then, I haven't had the same bad feelings.
I would think that light is light, and only brightness and color temperature would be the variables. But perhaps there's something more, because in general it seems that eyes are fine with outside daylight but less fine with indoor lights. I would like to know what is best for my comfort and health, but I'm not sure anyone really knows; studies and articles often disagree...
Apart from that, having a screen that is too bright can certainly cause problems. Especially if the contrast is very stark to the surrounding environment.
I personally use a light theme when it's very bright outside/inside and a dark theme when it's dark + my monitor brightness at home is set to ~70% which is plenty.
LEDs that minimize that issue are widely available due to demand from photographers, video makers, etc, but they cost a good bit more.
I've spent tens of hours trying to relocate this particular video; I thought it was a "DIY Perks" video but either he deleted it or it was someone very similar. It's so similar to DIY Perks' projector project and satellite dish sun project that it's uncanny, but it's neither of those videos.
If anyone knows this video and has a link I would be appreciative.
Hope this helps a little.
Uh, no. See "lighting design" [0] and the related field "daylighting" [1].
The more I read of Less Wrong the more it seems More Naive. Lighting solutions and their effects on mood have been explored outside of "Less Wrong circles" for decades, probably for centuries.
[0] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Architectural_lighting_desig...
Adding more lux just makes your pupil smaller. Or am I missing something? Maybe its non linear? Or maybe the idea is to reach the minimal pupil diameter? Or maybe happiness is somehow dependent on pupil diameter?
And yet, people tend to enjoy a sunny day just from the sight. This is attempting to replicate that.
2. Even though your pupil shrinks, you get a larger total number of light rays into the eye. Your visual cortex adjusts the image so you don't realize that a sunlit scene is a million times brighter than a lamplit scene. These extra rays may still affect something hormonal.
I generally find them uncomfortable when night starts to fall, at which point I just leave the dimmer yellow lights on.
[1] https://www.ledrise.eu/led-strips-modules/led-strips/multiba...
Lightbulbs have a long and very successful history of artificially driving lightbulb lifetimes down though a cartel system: https://youtu.be/j5v8D-alAKE
If you're building your own LED fixtures, you can probably underdrive the LEDs and run them at a radically cooler and slightly more efficient operating point, at a higher upfront cost: you need more LEDs for the same output.
I bought a bunch of desk lamps and put them around the perimeter of my home office, and equipped each one with a 300W equivalent flood bulb pointed straight up (I like indirect light best). Tied them all with HA so they turn on with the main room light. So when I go into my office and turn on the lights, it's like turning on the sun. Not literally, of course, the sun is pretty bright, but it's a heck of a lot brighter than any other area of the house.
Pretty sure it's the only reason I survive winter in a good mood.
[0] When I go down to the home store, she almost always asks what bulbs I'm looking for this time. LOL
As a start, I've started https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMobileComputers/ and been going on stretches of doing laptop work outside more. By having a setup where you've either got the screen closer to the face (less glare) or an e-ink display, I've managed being outside for up to a few hours.
Even worse if the environment is somewhat uncontrolled (wilderness, city cafe) as there are potential safety issues if I truly deep focus.
If I'm doing meetings, talking to folks, churning through a bunch of bs tasks, etc. then it's nice.
- The ergonomics / screen setup really make a difference in whether you can tolerate being there for 1 hour versus 4 hours.
- I've been pretty intentional about finding spots that have are quiet with some constant (e.g. creekside babbling), if really needed headphones can help deal with wind noise.
- If going to a coffee shop/bar look for places with outdoor seating in a rear area where you're not going to be distracted by cars driving by.
- You'll need some old thin wool gloves with finger cutouts to deal with coldish days.
But this isn't really just a question of "bright lighting", which of course occurs outdoors all the time, anywhere someone is doing arc welding, in any steel mill, etc. It's a more complex proposition: "Possibly seasonal affective disorder is due in significant part to the fact that indoor lighting is almost always orders of magnitude dimmer than sunlight. Possibly indoor lighting is so dim in part because providing sunlight-class lighting with Edison's incandescent lights would be punishingly expensive and require data-center-style massive air conditioning. However, modern high-efficiency LEDs and even fluorescent tubes bring sunlight-class lighting within practical reach of everyday people."
Still, this is hardly a brilliantly original idea on my part, so it's not surprising that the same idea occurred to Eliezer. I was pleased to see that he tried it for his wife's SAD and that it worked.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bqBsHSwPgw
Personally I have affixed studio lights to my home office walls, with umbrellas, for Zoom calls (total cost < $200). I find that they also enhance my mood / energy levels, so I switch them on whenever I need to boost my spirit or productivity.
Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of confidence in it... the company has been looking at building this product since about 2013 (same founder created a similar product on indiegogo called "Lucy") and neither product seems to be on the market yet (uncertain if the indiegogo product shipped).
I understand the reasoning behind adopting such frames, but for me, this way of thinking wouldn't work at all. At best, it'd be my new procrastination shiney. I find a lot of benefit, and also quite enjoy, quantifying like this at a bigger scale, but micro-rationalising such as this totally doesn't suit my brain. I wonder if it's me or him in the minority?
The "therefore" following from the time-is-money logic (he would pay > $1000 for this product) seems like a pretty alien disconnect for me. My back of envelope would probably be "most people pay between $x-$y for lighting and/or other decor stuff, therefore..." s
I don't disagree on his conclusion (maybe $400-$1200 price point), which makes me wonder if either of us are really arriving at our conclusions in the way we think we are, or just retconning our reasoning using random ideas floating around our minds uselessly.
In any case, I think the overall idea is good and the timing is good. For a start, it's a fairly DIY-ish on the interior design front thing regardless of available products because you can't use 20000 lumen lights the way you would a 200 lumen light.
One thing that concerns me about investing a lot into current LED lighting is that it seems like the tech is still evolving. At least that is my impression. I don't really like tech that gives the illusion that it will last a long time but ends up useless after 2 years. I see some really interesting lighting designs but it's all built into the lamp---does this mean lamps, usually a durable good, are just disposable units now? LEDs are supposed to fade over time---what do you do with a perfectly good standard bulb that's producing 25% less light? It still takes up an entire lamp socket. If it's a whole unit, that's a footprint in your home occupying space producing significantly less output.
Some LED bulbs I bought a few years ago are basically outdated in terms of light quality. I think my favorite bulb that I've tried is by Cree. People don't often believe that the difference is noticeable but when I swap out bulbs of various types they can notice how much better a room feels or the colors pop more.
You also can't buy several 'bright home' sunlight level lights cheaply just to see what looks better, so I wonder if this might be an area that keeps brick and mortar lighting stores or sections relevant.
Then there's also the environmental concern of eliminating any of the gains of reduced power consumption by buying more powerful LED bulbs that consume just as much electricity.
Another aside: If you're bored, playing around with lighting in Unreal Engine 5 is pretty fun. UE5 seems very impressive.
Here's a free tool that helps designing such fixtures: https://www.meerkatblog.com/ledmixing
You'll see great LED installations at:
- offices & commercial buildings, where it was designed by an engineer
- medical, where identifying things like skin-tone is critical
- transportation (often street lights), where it's optimised for night-time contrast
However, 10klux seems a bit too much, given the energy needed to drive the lamps and overall lamp brightness. Too much light can also have negative effects on the eye and moreover, you would just be unable to read your screen well at 10klux.
- Even high-end bulbs flicker badly when dimmed. Maybe flickering all the LEDs in the array with different phases would fix this.
- It's illegal to sell bulbs that buzz in California. All our custom fixtures buzz. If you buy high end dimmers, they buzz less, but still buzz. More enforcement of consumer protection laws is needed. Manufacturers should be liable for parts and labor and upgrades if their fixture buzzes with a dimmer that's licensed for sale in the state. Dimmers should be regulated for compatibility with a least-common-denominator LED.
- The current status quo is to buy lights that are brighter than needed, then dim them (California mandates installation of dimmers). This makes no sense. There should be an option to do a lighting simulation of the house, and then use the results of that to remove the dimmer requirements for high-efficiency, properly-sized installs. This helps solve the flickering and buzzing issue.
- The bulbs are all high CRI and matched color temp. They mostly maintain CRI and temp across the dimmable range, but other bulbs I've dealt with in the past did not. Bulb CRI should be rated at the worst-case dimming level.
- There should be a maximum permittible latency for power on of bulbs, again, across the dimming range. Some of our lights take 2 seconds to power on. (Coincidentally, these are probably the most marked up of the fixtures, and the only ones bought from a non-Ikea brick and mortar that operates in California. (These are also the loudest of the buzzers).
- Lutron fixtures are terrible. The smarter the fixture, the worse it is. Many are not fit for purpose. Everyone we've talked to say they're the best available. They should be liable for replacement parts and labor, and more consumer protection laws are needed (around minimum time to power on, correctness of movement / humidity detction, and standardization of the dimming current range, and the user interface of what happens if you push buttons / flip switches. The latter is not standard, even within Lutron's line)
Also, I don't want "an app for that" with my lighting.
Re the app: then don't use it, just program the hub directly yourself - see https://developers.meethue.com/.
It all runs locally on the hub - I've set it up for auto-day/night colour switching, plus manual override via a switch. I also used a light meter to more precisely tune the colour temperature ;)
The highest performing bulbs we have are also the cheapest. We went with hyperikon bulbs, IKEA pendant fixtures and mid to low end lutron dimmers in some rooms.
Those are totally fine. In hindsight, I'd probably have gone with 100% IKEA pendant fixtures that use standard bulbs and populate them with hyperikon bulbs. Sadly, hyperikon apparently went out of business. Thanks, Covid! Surely some other company makes decent dumb bulbs these days. No idea who, though.
The problems start once you buy modern fixtures, where the LEDs and power converters are integrated into the fixture itself.
Dimming is crap. I'll go so far as to say it causes subconscious anxiety and stress — obviously negating any positive effect the light brings.
I rotate my hands quickly between my eyes and the lights when I'm at a store to look for strobing when dimmed. Any strobing and I am not on board.
> Maybe flickering all the LEDs in the array with different phases would fix this.
I doubt it. A truly "smart" light would, IMHO, cluster LED's in parallel banks and when asked to dim, disable whole banks.
The cost then is in the controller within the bulb but I expect this would be cheap enough.
Then of course dimming happens in "steps" but I would take that trade-off for non-flicker.
Agreed LED dimming is crap, but incandescent is not so bad. Mainly because it dims toward red, simulating the day -> sunset -> fire transition. Apart from flickering, my gripe with LED is that it stays a constant color which looks unnatural even with a 2700K bulb.
We're planning on having a combination of 'direct' light from bulbs and cans as well as dimmable (and tunable color temp) LED strip lighting that throws indirectly into the ceiling. The frustration with residential dimmers (really all residential versions of things) is so true.
Before we moved out for demolition we did some mockup testing and were just blown away by the effect of adding light to spaces. The house already has a ton of windows but the mockups had what would be considered and 'unreasonably high' amount of light by most design standards. That being said, we were so happy with the results, especially in the morning and early afternoon.
Last year, for my house plants, I suspended a pair of 100w full spectrum grow lights in my living room. Throughout the winter I've been using my kitchen table as a workspace and I swear this is the first time in my life that I've completely avoided SAD and my circadian rhythm has been sufficiently advanced that I'm now a morning person. In my configuration the lights are suspended behind me, the glare from having them in direct eyesight is problematic.
Has been absolutely wonderful and can definitely recommend giving it a try, the "quantum board" full spectrum lamps are getting really affordable.
Anyway, these tubes don't seem to be too expensive and they are basically free to operate. And with modern head units they seem to capture the most sunlight possible, even on overcast days.
[0] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VP2APH2TKyY [1] https://solatube.com/
Have a large light-gathering lens on the outside, then focus the rays into a much thiner "sun tunnel", bring them underground (in the same shaft as the water and heating pipes), then expand the rays into a fake window. If this was possible it would completely change the way we build homes, we could have many underground floors with "periscope windows" and a towers of light gathering lenses on the roof.
Unfortunately this is not physically possible, not just a real picture but not even the light can be made parallel this way. (Maybe some quantum tech will make this possible one day.)
I bought a 4-in-1 E27 socket adapter and plugged 4x 16W bright (1400 lumen), high CRI (>97) Livarno Lux LED bulbs into it for my home office and it's been great, but having it brighter would be even better!
"Full-spectrum LEDs seem to output about 75 lumens per watt, so if our panel is 20k lumens then we should expect our panel to draw 266 watts. This seems reasonable to me. If you leave it on 8 hours a day, you’re going to use 25 cents per day in electricity (at $.12 per kWh)."
Almost anything can be solar powered.
And that's great, but I want to consider something else -- one of the best theories of civilization-caused myopia is that it's caused by insufficient exposure to sunlight. And the table in the post is certainly circumstantial evidence supporting that theory:
> Direct sunlight shines 100k lux
> Full daylight (indirect) is more than 10k lux
> Indoor office lighting is typically 500
That's a big difference. What if illuminating the indoors at 10,000 lux prevented people from developing myopia?
The review paper that ties many different findings from different fields (optics, endocrinology, circadian rhythms...) together with an audacious spoonful of hypothesizing is this: http://melatonin-research.net/index.php/MR/article/view/19/2...
I've just published a blog post about this: https://blog.plover.com/tech/corn-bulbs.html
1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FBBJ4KL 2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNSXY31
I think the problem really is cost. Good lighting costs 1000s of dollars and it really hasn’t been accepted socially that a modern house needs that like it does a fancy kitchen or an ac unit.
Fundamentally lighting is a hardware business and hardware isn’t very profitable
Forget your smart homes, lighting (even decorative) is where it is at.
Perhaps it's a certain kind of light, but I don't get the same kind of headache outside in bright lights. (Although I do find bright days painful.)
So a sphere of 2m radius has a surface of about 50 m^2.
A 1000 lumen bulb illuminates the sphere with app 1000 lm / 50 m^2 = 20 lux (not 50 lux as OP wrote).
So the calculation is a bit off. OTOH if we had bulbs that shine downwards only it would be sufficient to just divide by the floor. So 100,000 lm in a 10m^2 room gets you 10,000 lux.
I would totally support a crowd-funding of a company for making such an arrangement accessible to people around the world, using flat-packaged parts and installable by mere mortals.
... preferably with the blue-scattering effect as well :-)
I don't understand blog articles of the form "I listened to Elizier Yudkowsky, and I agree, this thing I can totally buy today should be created."
In my office room (32m²/340sqft), I use a commercial rail lightning system with three channels/phases (controlled via a Sonoff 4CH WiFi switch). Those are commonly used in stores, and I got my rails cheap via the local craigslist-equivalent. With 8m of rails (2m not attached, yet) I am very flexible with light positioning and can adjust the "light mode" for different room usages. Drawback: I am not somebody to buy light fixtures for a thousand bucks, so I found it difficult to find appropriate-but-still-cheap fixtures. For ambient light (not so bright) I got lucky with these cheap GU10 holders [1], into which I put some decent bulbs (3000k, CRI90+, 410lumen, dimmable, flickerfree [2]). As "desklights" I have bright spots (6400k, CRI95+, 1350lumen, 24deg [3]), which should give about 5000 to 7000lux with three lamps. The 6400k is a bit cold and the bulbs are non-replaceable, but other LED alternatives would have been much more expensive, so I got these to experiment with. So far I am happy.
One interesting alternative are metal-halide lamps[4]: Those can often be bought in used condition for cheap, and offer replaceable bulbs by default (G12 socket). They are only little less energy efficient than my high CRI LEDs, and the spectrum also seems to be quite good. However, they start at 35W (e.g. 4200k, CRI91, 3400lumen) and don't seem to be dimmable. For a single spot that's a bit much, and spreading the light on the ceiling by using three or four is a bit expensive with our energy prices. They also have some additional drawbacks like warmup and cooldown times. Though maybe I'll modify one or two with WiFi switches so I can use them to boost the normal desklight using some Home Assistant automations.
[1] https://www.ledpanelgrosshandel.de/3-phasenspot-schienenleuc... [2] https://www.greenandco.de/en/seocrap/a-100081 [3] https://www.reichelt.de/de/en/15w-led-tracklight-colorcode-6... [4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal-halide_lamp
Also, the Lumiere usually has a glass pane it, this blocks the UV - extended exposure to the bulb direct without these panes of glass is definately harmful, eg cataracts, melanoma etc
The price has little to do with the R&D and manufacturing cost, it really has to do with how small the market is. Once you have a customer that is willing to pay $1,000 for this novelty, they will likely also pay $10k for the novelty.
Also....I seriously doubt artificially extending daylight hours is good for anyones health.
i have tried and tried several CRI90 and CRI95 LED lights, bulbs and strips, but the spectre is not same. Like Fruits look different. Ah, May try some panels too. Of course, none of the price-of-secondhad-car ones.
-IKEA NOT ($10 floor lamp) lights with a bunch of light bulb splitters and at least two giant high-CRI twister CFL bulbs for photo studios from Amazon. These are truly massive and look like a normal CFL light bulb, but are about a foot long. Two of them consume 130W at the wall, and put out a rather large amount of light. Managed to get about 1000 lux at the desk this way. Unfortunately you can only get them in 5000K and 6500K. The daylight color may bother some people at night. Furthermore, they are undimmable.
-Track lighting with six IKEA TRADFRI tunable white bulbs on it, in an L shape following my desk. IKEA bulbs supposedly reach 90 CRI, and these can be color tuned (arbitrarily if you use the hub and the HomeKit app, not just 3 levels) and dimmed. At 1000lm, they are the brightest tunable white bulbs on the market commonly imo (most are 800). The range of color tuning is rather low, 2700-4000K. This is because the bulb never turns off the warm channel I think. Furthermore, at 4000K, the light is slightly greenish.
Some notes:
-I definitely find dimmable and/or color tunable bulbs to be useful, because at night, extremely bright or white light isn't extremely helpful for sleep.
-I found that high room brightness might make it difficult to see a computer screen that isn't turned up all the way.
-I found that if the lights were mounted overhead-ish, and were really individually bright, they would cause annoying glare under some circumstances
Some more hardware developmenty stuff I looked into:
-LED strips. High CRI tunable white LED strips are available on AliExpress, along with the LED channels to run them. Actually getting a constant current supply and appropriate power rigged up is an exercise left for the reader. Unfortunately, LED strips use resistors for constant current, so waste a little bit of power there.
-Building a custom LED plate for the Tradfri lights that used Lumileds chips capable of 95 CRI. I built and tested one, and still have the files if someone should want to try. It doesn't expand the tuning range much at all.
-Designing my own LED bulbs. This is a project in progress. I found some LED chips on DigiKey from Bridgelux (V6 Thrive array) and some giant BR40 bulbs at a local store for 3 bucks each that still have a massive heat sink on them to modify. The heat sink gets up to 60C with 18W input to the LEDs at 25C ambient. The LED chips are capable of outputting 98 CRI and come much closer to approximating sunlight than anything else I've found by wavelength/spectrum.
Hopefully someone finds something here useful.
My pick for a bright daylight would be about 6000K colour temp and I’d just throw some fittings in a room then walk outside at mid day to determine how many watts Id need to satisfy.
Bonus of these is you can get coloured lamps with more awesomer colours than LEDs.BLV is one manufacturer.
Second bonus is if you use a grow lamp in your setup, it’ll also help reduce the effects of SAD. They use the same fittings.
Oh, and remember diffusion is the key for comfortable indoor use.
People have been using broken LCD TVs to build "artificial skylights" for years. I came very close to building one, but my wife balked at me spending $50 on a broken 55" TV. <shrug> :-)
I recommend searching amazon and home improvement websites for "led panel lights", which seem to be a very similar premade light. They come in many sizes and shapes, many of them are meant for 2x2 or 4x2 foot drop ceiling installation, but others are designed for flush surface mount on drywall.
I put, as a test, a 12" round one in our small laundry room, and the light it makes is a great upgrade from the can light that used to be in there.
For my garage, where I didn't want to spend $600 on a bunch of the panels, I got a dozen LED strip lights that look kind of like tube lights, and spread them all over the ceiling. Provides a nice, even, bright light for when I use it as a workshop. However, over the last 18 months I've had pretty much every one of them "burn out" at least once. I'm guessing that it is the 120V power supply built into each unit that is the problem. The vendor has been good about sending me replacements, they have a 3 year warranty, but I think when they fail again (I'm assuming they will) that I will probably look at either just using 24v LED strips directly, and a ceiling mounted Meanwell powersupply, or maybe I'll look at some of these panel lights.
Another thing I want to do for the garage lights is split them into two groups. Right now I have one switch that controls them all, but I have had limited luck getting my kids to regularly turn them off, leaving 300W of lights burning for hours. I'd probably set up maybe 4 of them to go on from the main switch and the other 10 to have another, less convenient, switch for when I'm doing workshop stuff.
> In my experimentation I discovered that I liked closer to 5000 in the mornings and closer to 2700 in evenings.
The color temperature of the sun at noon is 5000K. So at noon, you want your light to be 5000K or higher, especially outdoors (who needs auxiliary light outdoors at noon? Exactly. High color temperatures are bullshit.) But it really has more to do with eyes than the sun: the more dark adaptation your eyes currently have, the more that blue, cooler light is blinding, the more warmer light is comfortable. I don't know what it is about old timers that insist on using 6500K light even after midnight. They are literally blinding themselves and slowly doing permanent damage to their eyes. Light that cool is unnatural, and I suppose that part of the attraction, but mostly it is the mistake of believing that the brighter a light appears, the more you can see. This is completely false, of course. Beyond low light levels, brightness has absolutely nothing to do with what can be seen. The accuracy of color rendition is more important than brightness in regards to what can be seen, and the state of one's eyes is more important than brightness in regards to what can be seen. It is very possible to likely that one can see more with dark adapted eyes in the dark than with 2000Lm of 6500K light.
Also not mentioned is drivers, and this is critical. Manufacturers are using the cheapest crap they can find, which means there's a lot of LED drivers out there with PWM. There is a huge rift in the lumens community about PWM, so much so that it is mostly banned from being discussed. The tl;dr is that PWM sucks and hurts some people, causes migraines, but some people don't notice PWM, and many of them are so egotistical and bereft of empathy that they don't care about anything that doesn't affect them.
In order of importance, a half-decent light should have
1) No PWM, nor anything like it, instead the driver should employ constant current
2) Good tint (neutral white, like white sand... without any green or yellow cast, but a rosy cast is ok)
3) 3200K to 5200K color temperature (depends on the eyes, which depends on the time of day)
and at a very distant last:
4) effective brightness
Using a white with less red and more green and blue allowed the vendors to advertise a higher brightness for the displays.
The same reason applied to fluorescent lamps. Choosing 6500 K allowed the vendors to advertise a higher luminous flux at a given electrical power.
Nowadays there is absolutely no technical reason to use a white with the 6500 K color temperature, even if the low-quality LED lamps with a single orange phosphor still have better efficiency when emitting more bluish light, but those have a too low CRI to be an acceptable lighting solution.
Nevertheless, for the lighting of my home I do not like a too yellowish white, so I use LEDs with the 4000 K color temperature, which, unfortunately, are much harder to find than those with a yellowish 2700 K or a bluish 6500 K.