Hacker News Reader

http://www.google.com/xhtml is a simple, less-cruft version. Unfortunately it doesn't have cache links.

Yes it does. Click options, a little dropdown appears with "Cached, Similar and Mobile formatted"

I couldn't find that, then I loaded it in Chrome and saw the "Options" links. Viewing it in Chrome also enables search suggestions.

I guess Google are sniffing for a WebKit useragent to detect a modern mobile browser.

Strange messing with user agents. The only one it shows an ad on is the "iPad" user agent.