I've been really happy with Cinnamon on Linux Mint with the MintY-Dark themes.
Still, usability (and that includes being able to configure things easily) is king and I cannot stand it, if I cannot configure annoyances away.
How does XFCE do with high-DPI displays? My only other complaint with Cinnamon is that the window controls are a tad small. It's been a long time since I used XFCE.