I lived in Naples for five years - it's a great shame that people land there still and scurry for the islands; the city really rewards exploration.
I found the city a bit hostile to exploration and hard to justify spending time in with places like Capri and Procida so nearby. What would you recommend backpackers do with 3 or 4 days in the city?
Definitely the Sansevero Chapel Museum, the National Archeological Museum, the San Carlo Opera House, Underground Naples and the Santa Chiara church/cloisters. The downtown subway stations have unique designs and art of all sorts, too. Or artifacts discovered during the digging, in one case later incorporated into the design of the station itself. Finally, you can easily spend half a day just trying out pastries.
Thanks, great recs. Not sure why the downvotes.
Just walk the side streets ... Find the old town ... there is a church in the old town with skull sculpture throughout... On a quiet single lane side street is an ancient church again with a skulls motif ... Naples has a unique vibe ... If you like it I suggest visiting Trapani once there walk towards the western point of the town which is the oldest part ... nice quiet restaurants only locals know incredible flavors
Naples is great for some superb pizza as well and its enduring influence on us: