Euro Modules
bgelectrical.uk
bgelectrical.uk
The short of it is that you buy a faceplate (1U/2U/3U/4U etc., multi-row) in whatever design you want, and then fit modular pieces of 1U/2U width to build whatever sockets you want. Brilliant.
Afaik only available in Europe. Would love a link/reference to standard if someone knows there is one.
In fact I think that the very example in this page, at the bottom, with a silver faceplate and plain white modules, shows it quite well.
I love this setups because you can easily retrofit a switch with a motion sensor, not needing to drill new holes or add cables.
I've upvoted someone's question on a StackExchange site in the past asking for a standard, and I think accidentally opened a duplicate a year later or something myself:
https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/177403/euro-modules-...
Anyway, I ended up with this link just because I thought it made the modular concept quite clear; not endorsing theirs specifically. My faceplates and modules are from different manufacturers, many of the modules unmarked generics.
https://www.legrand.fr/catalogue/interrupteurs-et-prises/mos...
It's a cute idea but Mosaic is quite expensive. Also, you still must take into account safety regulations eg adequately separating low and high voltage wiring behind the faceplate.
Personally, I’m using https://www.berker.com/de/e-katalog/schalterprogramme-und-ge... in my apartment.
Previously Gira switches/sockets were installed, which are sadly just slightly out of spec.
I believe one of the first companies to come out with the idea of mounting them in multiple 'units' was Gira with their "System 55" line. [2] The switch / socket / dimmer / whatever, called an insert, goes into the installation box and usually screws in with at least two screws. The part that is exposed is usually 55mm (hence the name), and a frame fits snugly over the top, covering the screws. It's worth noting that this isn't a standard, and they are not always interchangable between manufacturers - for example the spacing between frame may be slightly different. In my apartment for some reason the electrician decided to use a different manufacturer for some switches, and they often catch on the frame and aren't as smooth to operate. The frame just snaps in place over the top, so often it's tricky to get all the inserts aligned properly for it to fit correctly.
When you buy them from a hardware store you buy the insert and the face plate seperately. There's usually a few different colours to choose from, in my country the hardware stores sell white, ivory and anthracite, but if you go to a specialist electrical retailer they will have more to choose from. For example Busch-Jaeger has over 10 different designs to choose from [3]. Some manufacturers even sell the switch plates - the bit you touch - seperately from the insert. This makes more sense if you think about commercial installations, where you may have different printed symbols on the plates, but behind it's all the same. It's also worth mentioning that the inserts are not just limited to switches or sockets, you can get heating controllers, radios, motion sensors, smart home controllers, etc [4].
[1] https://www.lichted.de/led/montageanleitung-zum-einbau-von-u...
[2] https://www.gira.com/en/en/inspirations/systems/gira-system-...
Is it about the modularity of the socket? Is this somehow a "new" concept for people in the North America or Europe? If yes, than that is really strange type of exceptionalism, here in Brazil modularity has been the standard for almost 30 years, you just buy the shields (with 1,2,3,4,or 6 slots) and whatever modules you want (light switches, power sockets, telecom sockets, etc). You would actually find it hard to find a non-modular socket in a hardware store.
Here's an example of the style of perhaps 95%+ of sockets you'd see in UK homes nowadays: https://www.diy.com/departments/electrical-security/switches...
You can get similar sockets with no switch if you want them never to be turned off: https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/mk-k781whi-2-gang-13-amp...
A proper plug has coated pins near the grip, and the Earth will be too far removed (shutters closed) by the time you can get your hands on live & neutral contacts.
Not doing you any harm to switch off of course, and there are certainly non-compliant plugs (cheap/knock-off stuff mainly of course) in the wild!
2) How would you earth a PSU (with no built-in switch) & PC chassis for working on, for example, while not having it 'hot' in your country? Special plug/cable with L&N NC? We can just turn it off.
That's arguably a bit of a contrived example, but it is handy to have an ever-present switch to isolate things, and some things are always on standby while powered. Battery chargers & power tools typically, for example.
I always unplug things before working on them. It's too easy to think something is switched off when it isn't, or to flick a switch without thinking.
(I don't ground stuff that I'm working on)
The switch on the socket physically disconnects the "hot" / live supply from the receptacle for the plug's live pin while leaving the Neutral and Ground still connected (some models might also disconnect Neutral just-in-case your house is miswired, but don't quote me on that). The switches also have a very vibrant red strip that's only visible when the switch is in the On position, never Off - so I can assure you it's the complete opposite of "pretty dangerous".
For example: https://www.readersdigest.co.uk/media/images/screen-shot-201...
If you leave a computer or other EM-sensitive appliance connected to mains but with the switch off then the ground connection is maintained, so you can safely use the computer's own chassis to de-static-ify yourself without the need for a fiddly wrist-strap.
I've electroshocked myself twice while working on appliances (not PCs). After going back and forth a few times I thought I had turned off the circuit breaker (which also has a vibrant red strip to show that it's hot) but I didn't and touched the live wire.
If you look at safety guidelines for electricians, they require people to have multiple safeguards in place so that a single mistake doesn't kill you.
That being said, household voltages probably won't kill you and some people open PC cases while they are running, so there's that. As long as you're not messing with the power supply I don't think PCs are really that dangerous.
Never encountered one
Here the equivalent search in a big box store returns all modular sockets [1], but they are not a single standard thou, there are six (or so) de-facto standards created by the first big brands, and the smaller ones follow those.
You're right that integrated non-modular plates (even where they have USB or AV stuff) are more common though. Just undeservedly IMO.
Basically I think they're great, they're relatively common here (UK) but I think not in North America, I'm curious if there's an actual standard behind them, think there should be, and that everyone should use them.
The discussion going on in the Museum of Plugs & Sockets thread about people's favourite socket 'I wish everyone used X' could be resolved as 'fit your preferred Euromodule socket'! (BS1363 are available at least, 2U modules.)
When you build a new house the initial question is only whether and where you want "503" or "504" boxes in the walls, they are corresponding to 3 modules and 4 modules and are ubiquitous, much later you may decide which make/model of switches, sockets etc. to populate them.
The Italian sockets are 1 module, Din/Schuko are 2 modules, switches and push buttons, etc. are 1 module.
Till a few years ago you only used 503's, nowadays the trend is towards 504's, at least on the "low" boxes (where you normally have sockets).
There are 4 or 5 reknown manufacturers, each with more than one "series" of switches/sockets/etc. with different designs.
Some few more details about sockets: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=27652337