It's also a reasonable way for them to make money that isn't:
1. Invasive tracking 2. Nasty ads 3. Direct subscriptions
Take your entitlement elsewhere.
What are your thoughts regarding ad blocking? Specifically, do you also find people who use adblockers (I assume you don't use one of course) entitled?
The thing I hate is people who try to come up transparently disingenuous reasons for why they are entitled to not support organizations they extract value out of ("ehh I don't like your CSS so I'm going to not give you any money").
If you don't like the asking price, that is 100% fine. Don't consume the product.
You seem to be wanting to decide what is a fair price for product that they produced and set a price for.
It's right on the top of their front page:
"Wirecutter is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more."
https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/our-response-to-nextdesk/
Using affiliate links to pay for content creation/hosting is reasonable. Bypassing affiliate links is also reasonable. If you want to be owed something, put it in the ToS.
So you're saying https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/about/ is a lie?