Hiking America’s three longest trails in less than a year. What could go wrong?
latimes.com
latimes.com
I hiked a section of the PCT starting at a paved road (mile 652 of the trail) and didn't cross another paved road until 290 miles of hiking later. I tear up with gratitude for the vision of the people who worked to protect the land and create the trail.
Also, sure, there is awesome gorgeous hiking in Europe too of course, but, say, in the Alps, mostly it's managed more tightly. You can't just hike for the day and set up a tent where you get tired. Camping is much more restricted to right next to the huts/refuges or not allowed at all.
Also don't get that camping restrictions rant in this thread - you can camp literally everywhere outside of natural reserve. If its private property and you have somebody to ask then ask for permission. Otherwise be polite, quiet, don't leave anything after you and that's it.
I've been doing it for last 10 years almost every weekend weather permitting, never any issue. Outside of proper alpinism / skialpinism never used huts.
I for one would love to see more permitting used in the white mountains.
I don't know the White Mountains but here's a place that I've been that is going to start requiring permits: https://aspenjournalism.org/maroon-bells-snowmass-wilderness.... I was there in 2018. I remember hiking out on a Friday, about a two hour hike, and passing maybe 150 backpackers hiking in to camp overnight during those two hours.
In France you cannot do wild camping at all, bivouacking is merely tolerated. In some trails, you can only set up camp in designated spot.
If you go to the mountains actually, you will see tons of folks camping around all the time, nobody has any issue with it. The only exception are proper natural parks, but that's understandable.
I'm saying, the management of public land in the USA is DIFFERENT. Even different than Canada.
In the Alps, where there is the most dramatic scenario, in France, Switzerland, Italy, Austria, there aren't a lot of areas where you can just pick a spot and camp there.
You don't need a permit to stay in a hut/refuge, but you usually need a reservation, which is sorta the same thing, a limit to the number of overnight visitors. Effectively a permit.
There are very very very few places in the USA where you need a permit to just hike for the day. Places where they are required are either very vulnerable like "The Wave" in Utah or dangerous when overcrowded like Angels Landing in Zion.
If Sweden counts as Western Europe, we might as well add Finland to this list too.
Besides a few exceptions (military bases, the border zone, a few protected natural parks) you have an absolute right to camp anywhere as long as you don’t cause more than minor harm to the landowner.
Wonderful bike trail, has realistic information on where you can camp for each country.
In the Balkans people camp regularly on the side of the road on public lands. I have friends that did it in almost every country in the region on motorcycle tours, so they were camping quite close to roads.
I don't know how these guys and other long distance hikers maintain their motivation, or rather, I don't know how they continue to find enough reward in the activity to make up for the deprivation, repetition.
I just got back from 11 days hiking in the Grand Canyon. My left knee hurts, so maybe time is running out...
I totally feel you on this. I’ve done a reasonable amount of backpacking, and more and more, I’m not sure if I like backpacking or like looking back and saying I’ve done it. I certainly feel a sense of accomplishment from the treks I’ve done, but in the moment, it often just feels like drudgery, shading into misery when the days get long and the trail gets hard.
The exception is when the natural beauty of the surrounding area is high enough, the whole experience is totally worthwhile. The American west (Tetons, Sierra Nevada) still does it for me, but the AT definitely does not.
If you follow ultra-light hiking gurus like Andrew Skurka, food can be 75% of your pack weight after a resupply- 9 lbs base weight and 25 lbs food.
Not gonna lie, I have a warm fuzzy feeling for them topped by a tinge of wonder (+ envy) at this achievement! - jester
"People who exercise less than you are pathetic; people who exercise more than you are nuts.”
— Carlin
- Bear Bait
Edit:
Couple of my other favorite trail names I heard
- Pissbag -- on his first night on trail "ol' Pissbag" peed in a ziplock bag while on the second floor of a A.T. Shelter[0], and then "bragged" about his "brilliant" idea to not wake people up in the middle of the night the next morning and _instantly_ earned the name "Pissbag". I heard stories about "ol' Pissbag" for the first 700 hundred miles of the trail and I was super excited to meet (what I assumed to be) the degenerate who was _proudly_ going by that name. I was shocked when I finally ran into him and he turned out to be a super put together former SF enterprise software salesman. He ended up getting a pretty serious case of lyme disease and had to take several weeks off from the Trail.
- Ballsack -- A former ballerina who carried a leather bag with two massage balls on her pack. Her favorite was when she would meet 70 year old women from church groups who came out to feed hikers and when they would ask her her trail name and she got to see "the light drain from their eyes" when she proudly said 'ballsack'. The woman who went by "D*ck Nipples" told a similar story about how she enjoyed seeing the reaction of little old ladies when she told them
- Chingona -- A woman who didn't speak Spanish got called "Chingona" by a man who did speak spanish, who told her that it meant "Badass Woman". She was insanely proud of it for 500 miles until someone told her that word had some vulgar connotations in spanish and she switched to "Chin"
- High Five -- When someone would ask his trail name, he'd raise his hand up and say "High Five". It usually took people several minutes before they figured it out...
-- 5 & 6 -- A man who's this was his 5th attempt to finish and a woman who would sneak up "on people's 6". Who got their trail names totally separately and ended up hiking the last 800 miles together. Everyone assumed they were a couple because of the names...
-- Pack Professor -- Former traveling musician who was very serious about gear (especially his pack). When we would start drinking he'd turn into "Party Professor".
-- China -- She'd tell people her name was "China" and people would instantly try to guess how she got that trail name. Then she'd let them know that "China" was her real name and she went by it because it was funny to watch people guess and "her parents already gave her a trail name"
-- Schrodinger -- I asked him if he was called "Schrodinger" was because he was really into physics and he replied "No, it's because I'm like schrodinger's cat but with whether I've ** my pants". Later we started calling him "Tool of war" because we found out he had that phrase tattooed on his genitals and he was honestly kinda a tool
[0] https://appalachiantrail.org/explore/hike-the-a-t/thru-hikin...
- Only a test - She accidentally set off her sos spot device and had a helicopter circling her in town and her mom calling.
- Challenger - He gave it to himself as he was involved with the Challenger mission
- Dos egg rolls - Just egg rolls to us, but he was trying to save money and just ordered those, which was about the same price as our huge meals
- U-Haul - was seen carrying their boxes from the post office as part of his resupply.
(I have a pretty good bear story myself, and that's just from a week-long hike on the AT.)
In June 2018 I've been lucky to get glimpse of Anish (Heather Anderson) while she was getting her own Calendar Year Triple Crown. Later I read her first book "2600 Miles to Home" where she tells the story of her 2013 Pacific Crest Trail Fastest Known Time (a term that describes record-setting on long trails as well as the name of the website that track those FKT attempts) of the Pacific Crest Trail, which she completed (unsupported) in 60 days and 17 hours. She still holds that record as well as the record that she set for the Calendar Year Triple Crown (251 days and 20 hours). I can only wish I had half her drive.
But some people never reach this realization. I live surrounded by very accomplished retirees, and some, on first meeting, give me a rundown of the highlights of their illustrious career.
But I think this opinion does get thrown around a lot anytime someone pushes an aspect of hiking. Ultralight backpackers, fastpackers, even ultra runners are all familiar with the trite refrain of "just stop and smell the roses!". I mean sure, but I'll bet any money that someone committed enough to do the triple crown in a single year isn't lacking for gratitude, awe, respect or just simple love for nature. Heck, just by being out there for as long as they were, they increase the sheer number of hours of appreciation. Experience isn't orthogonal to achievement. I'd argue it goes hand in hand.
I'm actually quite a lumberer myself; I like running on trails, but my primary metric is time-in-woods, not speed.
On the AT section, they mention starting out with packs that weighed over 20 pounds, which is extremely light for backpacking. That’s probably a few days of food, a change of clothes, 2-3 liters of water, and an ultralight sleeping bag. But then they mention a tent, too! In contrast, I talked with someone who thru-hiked the AT in the winter, and they said that their packs were routinely over 70 pounds, and that they had ditched their tent in favor of staying in the shelters and wrapping their sleeping bags in Tyvek. How were the guys in the article resupplying? Trips into town every few days sounds very time consuming.
The article also casually threw out that they went through 26 pairs of shoes! Are they buying those at retail? Did they get sponsored by someone?
It also says they mailed themselves packages of food to be picked up at post offices, but it wasn’t dehydrated backpacking food: “Almost half of the airtight bags they had stuffed with rice and beans, tortillas and other fare broke, leaving their food covered in mold.” Has anyone else heard of people relying on perishable food to sit in a post office for weeks/months?
Overall, I read this article with a tremendous amount of respect for the physical and mental accomplishment (that’s a lot of miles and those trails are not easy!), envy, and…bewilderment, I guess? Is dropping $25k and taking a year off school to speedrun three of the most iconic trails in the US a good use of time or money? Part of me would have loved the idea when I was that age, but part of me thinks about all the travel, gear, time asked of family, and time asked of myself, and thinks it would not be worth it.
26 pairs of shoes between the two of them I actually find surprising--that they used that few.
I'm surprised at the mold--you don't have it sit around all that long, you update whoever is sending them with your location so they know when to send them. There's a limit to how long a post office will hold a package for pickup. And that sort of fare doesn't sound that perishable. I can't imagine beans on the trail, though--they take too much cooking time. Fuel is weight!
(And, no, I've never done any of the great trails, but they certainly sound like an experience. Section hiked in decent weather, not a speedrun like these guys did. I don't think I could handle any of them, though.)
An ultralight tent weighs less than a pound.
Typical stretches between resupplies are sth like 2-6 days, depending on region and preference. Food for a day weighs sth like 1 - 1.5 lbs. So packs with about or a bit over 20lbs sure is no magic. 70lbs with modern equipment sounds weird or unnecessary. Resupplies are time consuming but necessary, you need to wash yourself and your clothes, repair or replace gear and first and foremost eat. Because while on trail it’s unlikely you manage to eat enough.
Also, as I mentioned, when in town you use that opportunity to re-stock. A single meal of 6,000 kcal is not unusual.
And yes, all that is quite un-healthy.
But where I started (mile 652, Walker Pass) was hot with no sure water until 30 miles in, so for that stretch I started with 13 liters of water, my total weight about 45 pounds.
On a 5-day, 4-night trip I'll bring 4-5 pounds of food. I'm getting better at not carrying more water than I need. If I have to go 10 miles to the next water, I'll drink up and carry 3 liters.
Doing three in a year is remarkable for this reason, I think the almost mandates you done some through the winter.
Pick your poison.
IIRC we are now at the point where there have been the same number of single-year triple crowners as moonwalkers.
So you have to work back from that to when you start from Springer Mountain in GA which can be as early as about March 15 I gather although you're still sort of semi-winter conditions. Some people recommend starting more like mid-April for better weather and fewer through-hiker crrowdsbut you're obviously giving up 30 days or so of margin.
I'm a 43 yo French guy. In all my life, I only know one man that had problems with wildlife in France: he was charged by an angry wild boar and had to jump in a river to evade it. So I'm not worried at all about my safety when hiking in France.
However if I was hiking in the US I'd probably carry a 44 Magnum at all times (the ultra lightweight one from S&W). I don't know how you guys decide to go in the woods with just some pepper spray and think it's enough! I'd worry that it makes the bear angrier! :D
I completely forgot that they reintroduced bears in the mountains south of France (Pyrenees) a few years ago.
Despite having spent lots of time in wild lands in the lower 48, the only time I felt like I wanted a firearm was during my first 24 hours in Denali.
At the time firearms were not allowed in the national parks but I wouldn’t have brought one anyway. It was good to experience that vulnerability and learn how to just get on with it.
Nothing bad happened to you; you might think different if you were missing a couple limbs due to a bear attack (yes I know it's probably not survivable).
Where did you go in the park?
I've spent a lot of time in our State and National forests and for the past 15 years most of it has been off trail and the past 10 most of my trips have been solo.
Thru hikers tend to focus on the trail and their only goal is making miles. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's not even close to the same as experiencing the "wilderness". It's much more akin to running a marathon. So it's easy to spot thru hikers on a trail. They most always have their heads down and eyes focused on the trail and often won't even say "Hi" as they race by you.
To really experience the wilderness you have to learn how to "bushwhack" off trail. To do that you need to learn how to use a compass and triangulate your position on a map. That's not near as common of a skill as one might imagine thru hikers have.
For me, making miles was never a goal. Immersing myself in the wilderness and finding "Super Scenic Spots" to hang out for awhile has always been the goal.
One of the things you learn when you start bushwhacking is the wildlife will be hiding from you before you even get there. They can hear or smell you coming. But after a bit, if you're quiet, they'll come out and get back their normal routine, and that's really something awesome to experience.
I have to give them credit though because it was thru hikers that motivated me to get off the trails more. Over the years I've increasingly had those folks walk into my camp and ask, and just as often demand, that I give them food and supplies because "I'm out" of whatever it is they needed.
And over the years I increasingly had to to cut trips short because I couldn't say "No" and some of them were truly in desperate need. The first few times I was glad to help and it felt good to help, but after awhile I noticed this was getting to be too common and I grew tired of it because my trips kept turning into rescue and relief missions for those folks and getting cut short.
But when I get off those trails no one ever walks into my campsite. And when I backpack solo I can leave no trace, but when I invite friends who're not really backpackers they tend to want to build a campsite. What I do is much more akin to "Shinrin-yoku".
But I wouldn't say, "to really experience the wilderness you have to....".
Instead I would repeat the maxim, "Hike Your Own Hike".
There have been my own times where I’ve gotten very close to asking for help, but haven’t had to… yet
And I agree that fast hiking and making miles isn’t really my style, but it is fun to do 20+ mile days every now and again.