https://old.reddit.com/r/Hydroponics/comments/o8j68n/singleb...
That was still with the old commercially-blended nutrients, though. I've so far used my custom blend only for a few bok choy, as a final quality control check since they're fast-growing. If those continue to look good, then I'll move my entire balcony to the custom blend in about a month.
All of the i/o is dumb, the control loops are all on the node-red flowgraph allowing for lots of visibility of terms when tuning pids.
The node-red dashboard lets you mix telemetry and control on a very touch friendly format, and i spool all of it to influxdb to compare runs over time.
I’m sure you’ve got what you need with what you’ve built but at a minimum node-red might be worth a look. I was suuuper impressed using it for this.
The architecture is pretty straightforward. MQTT over wifi acts as a message bus between node-red and your 'legos'. (You don't really even need a raspberry pi, you just need to be able to run node-red, an mqtt broker and have wifi. I ran everything from containers on raspberry pi and ran the pi in AP mode which kept everything self-contained and tidy.)
For the i/o 'legos', i had more luck with the esp8266 than esp32's on Tasmota, but things have probably improved since then. You could also look at espurna, esphome, home assistant, etc. Main thing to look for is a firmware that supports some kind of async messaging protocol that nodered supports and has the i/o you need. You can buy a six pack of nodemcu esp8266's for $20 off amazon.
Good luck and have fun!
What climate zone are you in (if you don't mind me asking)?
I'll be growing a bunch of things in Spring and would like to make a setup like this. I'll keep an eye on the project and likely contribute if you're open to it
Mostly inadequate pruning, I think--I was planning to replace it soon, so I'd gotten lazy. Normally I remove side shoots and lower leaves, for less foliage and better yield. The fertilizer was Masterblend 4-18-38, which is intended for tomatoes and pretty close to the University of Florida's "Stage 5" tomato profile (per their article linked from my calculator). So I'd guess the nutrient profile was close to optimal, except for all the excess phosphate from my pH down.
I'm on a somewhat protected balcony in San Jose, USDA Zone 9B. That's warm enough that I can grow tomatoes through the whole winter, as long as it's a cold-tolerant cultivar (e.g. Early Girl; or Sub-Arctic Plenty, which is a determinate so needs less/no pruning), and lots of other stuff too.
And contributions definitely welcomed, especially on the controller firmware. That's currently in a state that's useful only to programmers. More work there (integration with home automation software, a nice browser-based interface to schedule irrigation and dosing, etc.) would make that accessible to a lot more people.