Realistically, certain types of programming positions probably do require some kind of CS degree, but as somebody who pathologically learns I haven't found my lack of degree to be an issue in the last 25 years of my career.
Should you go to university / code bootcamp / learn on your own? I would evaluate how you enjoy learning. If you are a cover-to-cover learner, you might consider going back to school. If you enjoy a bit if instruction and then you'd like to jump in, consider 1-2 bootcamps (you'll probably learn different things from each). If you're a bit of a self-starter, go to a bookstore (or Youtube) and focus on getting the basics of a language down (like Java, Python or C#) -- and see where you want to go from there.
Your Javascript / PHP / MySQL skills probably haven't stagnated as much as you think.
You've already got the right hobbies to make this interesting and easier for you -- you got this.