Servicing and repairing electric cars requires new skills
economist.com
economist.com
Most maintenance is basically going to be replacing tires, topping up some fluids (e.g. windscreen wipers), etc.
Battery replacements are sometimes needed of course but mostly not until well into 5 digit mileage. Quite a few manufacturers give you 8 years/100K miles warranty (whichever comes first) on the drive train. The reason is that they mostly only start failing long after that.
Of course any kind of serious work on an electrical drive train is going to need an electrical engineer. There are quite a few shops already specializing in salvaging electrical drive trains and repurposing them for ICE conversions of e.g. classical vehicles. Not an impossible skill to learn. But indeed very different from servicing the types of things that fail on ICE cars which have lots of moving parts and complex systems.
A lot of people just don't have finances and will be buying second hand cars and will generally try to extend the life of it for as long as it is possible.
A Tesla here in Poland costs as much as a small flat in a city center. Half of population does not have income to buy their own flat, let alone an electric car. That half of population currently buys cars that are are about 10 to 50 times cheaper because they have no value to people who have any possibility of buying a new car.
A Tesla might be more reliable for longer, but it will eventually reach that part of market.
Any links for those 200k flats in city centers?
You could have done the homework yourself (seeing that your name is most likely Polish) but I will humor you anyway.
https://www.otodom.pl/pl/oferty/sprzedaz/mieszkanie/cala-pol...
There is a bunch of flats that are available at that price.
An example from first results page: 189k PLN, 2 rooms, 38 square meters (400 sq ft), Sosnowiec city (200k population) strict center: https://www.otodom.pl/pl/oferta/sosnowiec-centrum-dwa-pokoje...
This one site lists 12 THOUSAND current ads for flats for sale under 200k PLN but I assume significant portion is mislabeled or duplicate or not in a city center. There is no way to filter for city centers but there is half a dozen offers on first couple of pages.
Still, there is a lot of reasonable flats in that price range.
Of course you will have hard time finding anything large and forget about luxurious, but this is reality people with below average salaries live in.
If you look at actual cities, then you might find ruins, mislabels, 17m^2 "apartments" and tons of "Zapytaj o cenę".
The only think that might be any different is the engine/fuel system. It still has a drivetrain. It has plenty of bearings, rods, suspension and brake elements that need exactly as much servicing as in any other vehicle. Go to any general mechanic shop (not a dedicated engine/trans facility). They are working on suspension. They are replacing broken broken glass/plastic bits and pieces. They are chasing electrical gremlins (intermittent faults). They are fixing fluid leaks. None of that is anything to do with the type of engine under the hood.
Can't think in a better description for this. Thanks for this jewel.
Brakes are generally used a lot less thanks to regenerative braking (kind of like trucks use eddy current brakes to lessen wear on mechanical parts: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_current_brake https://www.klamretarder.com/en/retarders/truck-brakes-cfk ).
> They are fixing fluid leaks
There is also much less fluids circulating (some cars, not all, use liquid-cooled batteries and engines; add windshield wipers and that's about it). So less fluids to worry about.
There is just a few orders of magnitude less mechanical parts that can wear out and require servicing.
Suspension, tires and body work is still required, of course. There will probably be maintenance needs on auxiliary systems like the in-car entertainment system or headlights.
However, most of the maintenance work on regular cars is related to the combustion engine: timing belt changes, oil changes, gearbox issues, brakes, exhaust, differential, shaft, fuel pump, air, fuel and oil filters, spark plugs, starter, lead battery. A whole class of issues is avoided (timing belt failure, running without oil or coolant, inadequate fuel). Generally, control electronics should also be more integrated and prevent major (expensive) failures.
I don't think you realise what "orders of magnitude" means. There are very few things in an ICE car that "can wear out and require servicing" that aren't on the EV unless you count each nut, bolt and rod in an ICE car as a separate part that requires servicing.
The engine in an ICE is easily, cheaply and (relatively) quickly swapped out for one with all new parts, hence the engine is usually one single swappable part. Other than that, all the other components are going to be found on the EV too.
That's not unusual at all, and is actually a rather easy task even DIY hobbyists take on at home.
I personally swapped out the motor on my turbo miata in a weekend after cracking a piston, using nothing but plain hand tools and some rachet straps thrown over a rafter as a hoist. The used low-mileage replacement was found locally for $250 and ran strong, bolted right in. The only fiddly bit was I had to drill and tap the oil return hole in the oil pan for the aftermarket turbo.
On another occasion I swapped an 05 motor into an 04 R1 for a friend, another small weekend project, didn't even get the floor wet. Modern ICEs are quite well contained, loosely coupled (though less so on exotics/superbikes with stressed member engines), consistently affixed (within generations) modules. Mass production kind of forces this outcome. You can swap them out easily.
I would have put it the other way: if you count every nut and bolt, total count is likely to be similar on both ends.
If you only count relatively critical parts, though, I think you can easily reach 10-100x the number of mechanical parts that can fail on an ICE, unless you count the ICE as a single part (which it really isn't).
> The engine in an ICE is easily, cheaply and (relatively) quickly swapped out for one with all new parts
Last engine swap I had to look at (timing belt failure) was about 10k€, which I don't consider cheap at all (that's about half the vehicle value if you are lucky, and often isn't worth it). There is generally a lot that can go wrong on an engine and needs to be addressed individually, from piston/engine seals and resurfacing (expensive) to spark plugs (cheap) and clutch. Full engine swaps are usually your last ressort. And all of these parts playing nice together requires a lot of tuning, sometimes requiring some mechanical trimming here and there.
Granted, I am no professional mechanic (dunning-kruger applies), but some family members are, and I've often had to assist with complex repairs. The mechanical complexity of an internal combustion engine is really... nuts, and just lifting it out of the car usually requires a few hours of work, and a lot of plumbing.
On the contrary, the figure I'd heard is that electric vehicles have around 1,000 fewer parts than a fossil fuel based car. A quick search for references now I've found "Conventional powertrains may have as many as 2,000 moving parts ... while electric powertrains may have as few 20"[0] and "70% of an electric vehicle's component parts may be different from a gasoline-powered vehicle... The electric vehicle has one moving part, the motor, whereas the gasoline-powered vehicle has hundreds of moving parts"[1]. The relative simplicity of electric vehicles, with none of the sophisticated mechanisms for controlling regular explosions, e.g starter plug, fuel pump, fuel injector, air intake, radiator, oil pump, cam shafts, gears, pistons, fan belt, exhaust system, etc., is one of the major benefits from most people's perspective (although not admittedly from the perspective of a fossil fuel car mechanic).
[0] https://www.forbes.com/sites/jeffmcmahon/2019/05/30/more-ele...
[1] https://avt.inl.gov/sites/default/files/pdf/fsev/compare.pdf
So if I need new spark plugs, I just swap out the engine?
Let's test this theory with some data.
From 2016[1]:
"Last year, according to a Reuters analysis of data provided in the company’s annual report, Tesla spent $1,043 per vehicle on actual repairs and set aside $2,036 in warranty accruals to cover future repairs on the vehicles it sold in 2015. It trimmed warranty expenses by 17 percent from 2014 and cut warranty accruals by 34 percent.
Meanwhile, GM spent just $400 last year for every vehicle it sold on warranty repairs and set aside $332 for future work. Ford spent $429 per vehicle and set aside $308. Daimler spent $970 per vehicle and set aside $1,294."
Let's fast forward to 2020[2]:
" in 2020, GM accrued just over $3.4 billion and sold just over 6.8 million vehicles, so its accrual per vehicle was just under $500[...] in 2020, Tesla accrued only 1.3 times as much per vehicle as Ford, and only 2.5 as much as GM. It's still in third place, but remember, this metric is based on what a company believes will happen."
So Tesla is certainly setting aside more for warranty repairs than what would be needed for topping up fluids.
Now what could possibly require a repair in an EV, given that the drivetrain is so much simpler?
Here's Car and Driver's road test[3]:
"One of the pitches we hear often on the switch to EV ownership is that electric vehicles are cheaper to maintain. But, as we close in on 40,000 miles in a Tesla Model 3, the actual savings in service costs is turning out to be quite minimal."[3]
And loading the car up with complex electronics also creates repair pain points:
"Tesla has been ordered to recall roughly 159,000 vehicles to fix a problem in the Media Control Unit.[...] Many vehicle controls in a Tesla are accessed via touch screen, and the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) began an investigation after over 500 complaints were filed about the issue.[...] Once its onboard NAND fails, the touch screen stops working, freezing the end-user out of climate controls and from using the rear backup camera. It also is said to impact “audible chimes related to ADAS, Autopilot, and turn signals.”[4]
[1]https://www.reuters.com/article/us-tesla-warranty/high-warra...
[2]https://www.warrantyweek.com/archive/ww20210218.html
[3]https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a30209598/2019-tesla-mo...
[4]https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/319170-tesla-ordered-to-...
Why would this be so?
Removing and replacing parts shouldn't need the people who designed the parts to be present. Serious work on ICE drive train don't need mechanical engineers.
You don't know much about cars, do you? Other than oil changes, filters and plugs, what exactly do you think needs constant maintenance on an on internal combustion engine?
As far as reliability goes, in the cars I've owned (+300000km on a single car sometimes) none had needed ICE-specific repairs. The things that break the most in an ICE vehicle are still present on the EV (drivetrain problems, coolant system problems, electrical problems).
I want an EV too, but I am under no illusion that my maintenance work and repair work is going to drop significantly.
In fact, it might go up initially (new things to learn about the EV, for example the software/hardware diagnostic tools needed are probably different to what I am used to now).
This, and the suspension.
However, that was because the immense amount of preventive maintenance I did to keep the engine in its operating parameters:
- oil swap, fuel, oil and air filter change every 20.000km
- timing belt change every 80.000km, that involves changing all the related pulleys and an additional belt
- coolant refresh and preventive replacement of the coolant pump, to preempt a very nasty silent degradation by insuficient cooling
- cleanup of the exhaust gas recirculation valve and sensors, which tend to gunk up with modern diesels
- clutch-related maintenance (disk replacement and transmission fluid swap) that an equivalent electric (not a Tesla) car will not need
- mandatory emissions tests and checks - which I pay
So yes, the defects will still happen on electric cars, but you take away the bread and butter of any mechanic shop - maintenance of the ICE (and to a significant extent, brakes too).
EE's are exceedingly rare in most blue collar industries that work on substantially more complex electrical systems than EV's. Most folks in this industry go to trade schools or are sponsored by a company to learn on the job. How this translates to Tesla's remains to be seen. AFAIK you have to take your Tesla back to the dealership for most things, certainly for any warranty work. I would expect at some point there to be a short class and certification that mechanics attend at Tesla. When Tesla is big enough I would expect that to evolve to some third party company that certifies mechanics. All of this assumes that Tesla continues to grow towards the size and scale of any of the current automobile manufacturers.
Not in the northeast or midwest US. Here in the rust belt, the only cars that make it to voting age were either rarely driven, or never driven in the winter. The frame and suspension components literally rust away into nothing due to a high-salt diet here. You can replace the suspension components when they die (not cheap) but you can't do much about the frame. The underbody coatings that dealerships like to sell as an upcharge actually hasten the frame's demise.
ICE engineering has gotten amazingly good over the last few decades, to the point that engine failures under 150k miles are quite rare unless basic maintenance has been neglected. One auto shop owner I know of says he makes the majority of his money on brake jobs, tires, and suspension work. He says he would be just fine if all cars were switched to electric overnight.
So while it's undeniable that electric cars are more efficient and will eventually win out over ICE for all passenger vehicles, I'm not particularly convinced that they will be either easier to maintain or any longer than our current cars. Longevity can only be achieved by the manufacturers actually designing their frames and bodies to be at least moderately rust-proof, but of course they have several strong incentives not to do that.
There's a certain bias here towards indiscriminate use of the title Engineer. The title, when combined with the prefix Electrical implies actual professional licensure by the State.
These are very skilled people, who I wouldn't let anywhere near an actual repair environment. You really want an electronics Technician, who actually knows how things work in the real world. Engineers quite often are "book smart", and as long as they are in their specialty, quite valuable folks. Left to their own devices, on the other hand, they tend to be surprised when things blow up because they didn't understand that red wires are positive. (I saw it happen)
Any new technology has new hazards. I can imagine that quite a few buildings were blown up or set ablaze when automobiles and gasoline fumes combined with open fires for heating. Over time, people figure it out.
Quite a few people have been dealing with the combination of high current and high voltage for decades, ham radio operators, the also had the hazard of high frequency RF which does odd things, and yet most of them survived. ;-)
Incidentally in a neighbour town a repair shop has popped up that has specialized in ECU repair. They developped a process to disassemble ECUs, dissolve the resin that contains the PCB and then do the repair on the boards.
In that context, what's a classic mechanic?
Is the idea that we should build cars so that dead people have an easy time servicing them?
Technological advance is not a step function and describing every transition as disruptive is not particularly meaningful even when it is true.
I'm just a layman who dabbles in diy car repair but from my experience with a cheap Chinese bluetooth obd-ii interface and an android app it reports far, far more than that. There's almost an obscene amount of data, and this was with an old car that was made only a few years after obd was released. I don't think this statement is correct.
Cars currently are really sophisticated computers with tires. There are a lot of systems all managed by the central ECU. Things like airbag, electric windows, seat heaters, electronic brakes, ABS, coolant circuit... each one are managed by its own circuit.
Not needing oil changes or air flow meters for the mix, electric cars will be much more simplified in some parts but I bet that are absolutely arcane in the other. And the battery can kill you easily.
I think you misunderstood, I bought a cheap bluetooth obd2 device and accessed the data from an open source android app. It was a 2004 model from memory, the amount of data you could glean from that blew my mind back then.
Older and easily serviced cars are fun, most things you can do yourself with a service manual. For a few things like changing brake discs I got a mobile mechanic to come to my house to do it and teach me at the same time.
You don't need many tools to get started. Working on your own vehicle is a very self-reassuring hobby.
I agree that the amount of info is incredible. The problem of the cheap diagnoses machines are that they aren't always updated. Not to mention the market flooded with pirated products that can made more harm than good. Many cars share the same error codes for very different things so interpretation is also a tricky issue. Translation in chinese machines is often of bad quality also.
Professional diagnose machines play in a different league and are really expensive.
US auto makers were still running throttle-body fuel injection (no ECU required) or were licensing German ECUs (and not tying them into the OBD-II system). Almost all the US automakers were desigining OBD-II compliance with minimal integration into the rest of the engine as a misguided cost-saving measure. So for about a decade in the US if you plugged in an OBD-II reader, it would let you know if there was an emissions-control problem (bad O2 sensor, bad MAF sensor, etc) but be completely silent about other (often critical) engine problems. This situation was obviously stupid, but it took automakers a long time to change course.
Today, most so-called OBD-II dongles are actually microcontrollers which speak multiple marque-specific protocols, auto-negotiate which one to use on startup, and give you scads of information. But at its heart, OBD-II is an emissions-focused standard, which is why it's mandated by EPA regulation in the US and is one of the "measures to be taken against air pollution" specified by the EEC/EU.
Classic cars from 40-70's don't have any way to be connected to an external computer (normally). Practically all modern cars (and none of the trucks) share the widespread OBD-II 16 pin connector. In the middle you can find a mess of different connectors in old cars from 80's and 90's when each brand was trying to produce their own unique plugs (You were forced to pay for their original software in the maker's official concessionaire). This was regulated later by laws to allow other companies entering in the market and for makers to reduce the mess.
Electric cars could experiment a similar opening process, or not.
Allow me to blow your mind with the VW type 2 bus diagnostic port from my 1974 bus: http://www.speedyjim.net/htm/plug.htm
But yes, even that port was analog, and was dropped in later models.
I had one car about five years ago - a 1982 VW Scirocco. A 1.7L engine powered by mechanical fuel injection, controlled by an early ECU.
It had a problem where the revs would bounce at idle like it had a big cam. Vroom VROOM vroom VROOM. Because of this, I got it very cheap.
I realized if I opened and closed the hood it would stop.
The ECU was mounted next to a hood hinge. Resoldering some connections for some capacitors fixed it. I ended up swapping in a modern turbo motor though. :)
If I expected him to rebuild the battery pack with new cells; that'd be silly. I don't expect him to rebuild an automatic transmission, either. Not that he couldn't necessarily, but that kind of job is far better farmed out to a specialized shop that concentrates on it.
*Even captured alien ships, if anyone has one, and a budget, I'm game to help.
Using the equation V (volts) * I (Amps) = P (watts) we could calculate the power of putting a car battery through a ring: 12 volts * 100 amps[1] = 1200 watts. That's more than your average microwave.
The reason you don't heat up when you touch a car battery is that at 12 volts your skin (mostly an insulator) won't conduct the needed amps. Metal (a conductor) will however transfer close to the full 100 amps of the battery.
Here's an example of the effect[2]
[1]: https://www.bestpowerbattery.com/how-many-amps-is-a-car-batt...
It's generally immediately obvious, and can be remediated by pulling the cable away before it welds. But dropping a screwdriver in the wrong place can and will (statistically, thanks murphy) happen, so better use insulated screwdrivers and gloves, to reduce the likeliness of it happening.
The current won't flow through your hand, 12V is too low to pass your skin with a significant current. The only way the ring can have raise to a significant heat is if the ring itself touches both sides of the circuit (anode -> car frame -> ring -> wire -> cathode). Anode -> car frame -> hand -> ring -> wire -> cathode won't cause any short, because your hand acts as a big resistance in that circuit.
Of course not, I didn't mean to imply that.
> if the ring itself touches [the car frame]
That's what I meant.
> 12V is too low to pass your skin with a significant current
Now of course the human body has a complex impedance, with cell membranes acting as capacitors: higher frequencies let more current flow. And that also depends on how much skin there is (single finger vs arm to foot), if it is wet, etc. I remember trying a (discharged) 9 V battery on my tongue as a kid... that was literally quite a shock, even with continuous current.
In the end, I wouldn't bet that an electrocution is impossible using a mere 12V of electric potential.
Anyway, given that 12V is considered safety voltage for submerged swimming pool material in France, I'm pretty confident it is be extremely unlikely to kill anyone.
A 12V car battery can supply hundreds of amps if you give it a low enough resistance to go through.
As for the heating up... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbGcSjRAyxs is a good demo of how fast 12V can heat up a small hunk of metal given enough amperage (in the case of that video 12V at 100A) . There are a surprising amount of 12V and 24V DC power systems (like in that video) can push in well over a kilowatt (12V at >100A or 24V at >50A) of power in a dead short situation.
My father had a paperweight in his shed that looked like someone used a spanner as a fork for lava, drooped away from its normal shape like a Salvador Dali clock, one end barely recognisable with blackened carbonisation marks and a ragged but lightly polished place where it was cut clean from something with an angle grinder. 24V at 150A for just a few seconds before the batteries were discharged, big marine batteries for lots of current to kick start an old heavy duty engine, lots of Amps but not many Amp Hours, still enough to destroy the spanner.
12V is Extra-low voltage. High voltage is > 1000V (with specific risks due to electric arcing).
With 12V you can't get an electric shock, and the biggest risk is short-circuit (which is where you can get cauterizing metal pieces) and then the battery itself is the most sensible part (Lithium battery really don't like short-circuits): battery fire is a much bigger hazard than burns.
Also, the short-circuit risk already exists with lead battery (even if the amperage is lower).
Any well-designed battery pack should have some kind of integrated short-circuit and temperature protection, though.
The specific hazard discussed above was about overheating a wedding ring or a watch. With 100 A, you'll reach that point in around 100ms. No need for long time at all, and a lead battery poses the exact same risk in that regard.
I saw a Nissan Leaf get a battery back replacement at the dealer. The adjacent bays were closed off as well. When asked the reply was something about the high voltage has killed 1-2 techs and now Nissan mandates they close of the bays during a battery pack swap.
https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2014-03/documents/rp...
(It can be in some places; here, there's undeveloped land near most of the stores, which is a common scenario…)
> Petroleum brownfields, such as old abandoned gas stations, are being cleaned up and reused to the benefit of communities across the country. EPA’s Office of Underground Storage Tanks (OUST) and Office of Brownfields and Land Revitalization (OBLR) jointly focus on the cleanup and reuse of petroleum contaminated sites.
This article goes into data a bit based on information from Norway which has been electrifying passenger vehicles rapidly. Although, I wish there was better data to draw on. Maybe London will provide some data soon as they add more and more zones where EVs are preferred.
https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2021-02-18/when-cars...
Shopping centers definitely have a nice synergy but I can see the demand for ev spots outpacing supply, so there will likely always be need for on demand charging.
So maybe whoever is redeveloping that land will be willing to pay the cleanup costs to gain access to it.
Also I suspect we will need underground tanks of dinosaur squeezings for longer than 20 years. Cars being sold today routinely last over 15 years, plus yard equipment, generators, etc.
They are basically big tech on wheels doing big tech things.
And when I say huge I mean huge. Months of bureaucracy. To start can't be done without the maker agreeing and certifying that the modification does not affect the safety of the car (and the maker would never agree, of course).
For a TV show? of course. Do it. Just don't expect to be allowed to drive that car in a public road. Ever.
There are multiple thousands of wires inside, and multiple hundreds of tap fuses. Every single bolt and joint is critical and needs just the correct amount of cleanliness and jointing compound applied.
The safety systems only work as well as the battery can isolate the problem (usually isolating the battery from the vehicle). Random workshops working on electric cars will just lead to internal battery problems that are uninterruptible by the control systems (ie a loose bolt or a washer floating in the casing), and this will lead to fires.
And after you’ve pulled it apart, what about the quality control on all the casing water seals? Especially the single application seals (gaskets don’t work well in practice)?
Battery aside, if you unbolt a motor resolver or move anything important then you need to do a resolver or phase calibration, which you can’t do without OE special equipment. Again, this could cause serious issues like hardware overcurrent and sudden cut outs, loss of power steering etc at high speed.
The days of mechanic shops servicing these vehicles is going to have to be over… there is no way it will ever be safe for someone to touch the power train without all the right OE specific equipment, the right checklists and several weeks of training for each vehicle.
Source: I was an EV battery design engineer.
Get some of this wrong and the engine self destructs. In the worst case hot internal parts of the engine exit the engine and cause a fire.
Porsche had an issue where they used some bad bolts causing catastrophic engine failure and several vehicles to burn on their GT3 line.
https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1090959_porsche-fires-ev...
Basically, there are many components on cars that require specialist skills to get right every time.
(Humorously, in a chain of weird luck, I also had a full rebuild of a regular Golf engine in the same five year span, but that one was done at the dealer.)
It’s not that common with shitboxes, but even then it happens. We swapped my kids Honda Civic’s head about a year ago after a blown head gasket.
What do you think they do instead? Throw the entire car away after a year? Obviously they get serviced by mechanics - don’t be silly.
Mechanics replace seals all day long. Heads are a far more extreme environment than a battery case.
> all the right OE specific equipment, the right checklists
This is the situation independent shops already are in for Audi, BMW, etc. They'll continue to do so if repairs end up being needed. What I doubt is the volume will be high enough to be worth the bother. If the battery needs rebuilding, they'll send it out to a third party like they do with starter motors or clutch linings. They'll continue to do alignments, tires, coolant changes, bearing swaps, etc. It's just the total pie is going to shrink and many places will need to close.
- Around 10-20 microcontrollers.
- Between 150 and 250 voltage sensors
- Between 150 and 250 tap fuses with fuse blow sensors
- Between 5-10 contactors with sensing contacts
- Around 50-100 temperature sensors
- Around 300 to 500 N-fet switches with balance resistors
- (Depending on the design).. up to 300 bus bars with perhaps 600 bolts.
- In some instances, you'll find up to 50 pressure sensors
- A variety of interlocks and plug sensorsHow fault-tolerant are the battery packs? I assume, with all these fuses and sensors, it should be able to safely handle a wide range of internal failures.
Also each sensor is usually at the same potential as the cell that it's monitoring. So if there is a sensor fault, it could mean that it's unplugged or has come loose. Can you imagine the risk of a dangling 600V thing flying around inside the box?
For that reason though ... I'd need two hands to count how many technicians have accidentally shorted two cells in packs together by plugging the wrong sensor into the wrong place and shorting i.e. cell 32 to 42. When this happens, it will blow up a bunch of random surface mount fuses in the control boards, and other things all over the place. You need a lot of attention to detail to tear these things down.
Explain to me again why I want to own one of these cars?
A similar thing will for tradespeople electrifying houses with heat pump heating/cooling, hot water heaters, clothes driers, and induction stoves. Our economy is going to need to adapt incredibly quickly if we deploy at the necessary rate.
(ICE cars require oil changes all the time so that's a major difference perhaps, but EVs still require some lubrication, right?)
the cynics in me thinks the hybrids and ev are still over engineered to convince the masses, once mass adoption began the electronics can build in design obsolescence much easier..
> All this could have a big impact on garages’ revenues. McKinsey, a consultancy, thinks evs may reduce spending on spare parts at American dealerships by as much as 40%. With no oil to change or spark plugs to replace, income from routine servicing will also be lower. Porsche’s Taycan, for one, is reckoned to need 30% less maintenance than if it was an ice vehicle.
This has been a thing for at least 10 years now, started by the luxury brands. There really wasn't much troubleshooting required for ICE (despite your mechanic's insistence on the severity of the issue) until cars starting running more LoC than a Mac. Pre-2005 ICE was very simple compared to any modern system, ICE or E.
James shows how a pro services EV cars on his channel.
Here is the upgrade of a Nissan Leaf: https://youtu.be/bY66PGpR7jk