Best enjoyed with something like https://www.tamriel-rebuilt.org/ installed as a mod.
data="/home/user/.local/share/mw/Tamriel Data (HD)"
data="/home/user/.local/share/mw/Tamriel Rebuilt"
I think the tricky file to find was ~/.config/openmw/openmw.cfg and it needed to che changed to include:
fallback-archive=PT_Data.bsa
fallback-archive=TR_Data.bsa
and content=Tamriel_Data.esm
Then everything else was managed with the openmw-launcher UI. The game ended up installed in ~/.local/share/openmw/ with some funky setup to deal with mods.