3D Printing Sex Toys
billieruben.info
billieruben.info
I bought a 3D printer for under $200 a year ago, and it has been the absolute best investment I have made in years, and doubly so. It would have been worth it as an educational tool alone, I have learned so much (and so quickly) about CAD and mechanical engineering in general. It inspired me to buy books and hardware and poke at things.
On top of that, it is also practical. I have printed parts for things for less money and in less time than it would take to go get from the hardware or auto parts store. Car wouldn't pass inspection without seatbelt cover thing? 3D printed. (Don't worry, it's a decorative plastic part, not a safety-critical part...) That alone paid for the cost of the printer.
I'm making electromechanical devices and the corresponding software now, for no dollars, at home, with no help and very few tools. It's amazing, the possibilities!
$2 Arduino + plastic + software + minor components = ???
What a time to be alive.
I've saying this because it's a complete, stable, easy to use 3d printer from what I understand, with minimal troubleshooting/tinkering to get it to work. \Good support too from what I gather.
The catch is the price, it's in the upper end for it's spec, but you pay either in money or time.
Betting human isn't. Bonobo, maybe.
The process is here to print the negative and then do a thin layer of beeswax inside to smooth the layer lines from the print. I haven’t done either method but would like to try it out soon. I’ll probably stick to figurines instead of sex toys though..
This is simple, cheap and clean by comparison. I have the same inclination to try it too. I think it's brilliant.
Though, as others here mentioned, resin may not be what you want either. I looked at them briefly when my son was interested in painting minifigs, and decided I didn't want to deal with resin and I DEFINITELY didn't want him working in resin, based on the messes he makes with cereal.
That sounds painful.
- the assertion that 3d printed materials are not body safe; PLA (the most common 3d printing material) is nontoxic and used for utensils (although agreed that the layer lines are a hygiene hazard)
- the description of the "traditional" method as printing a positive shape, then casting a negative in silicone, and then casting a positive also in silicone (with release agent, presumably because silicone bonds to itself). Why would you not just print a negative directly - as indeed she later does? Is it because she considers the concave surface difficult to sand smooth?
- Why is release agent "$$$"? There are a variety of extremely cheap household items that work as release agent, notably dish soap.
- Pouring 100C beeswax into a print. This is well above the glass point of PLA. She doesn't say what material she's printing with, which may explain the earlier remark about not being body safe.
- The need for any sort of release agent. Silicone does not bond to thermoplastic, at all. She's not casting silicone in silicone, so what's the problem?
Beeswax temp: Thermal mass of the print is probably high enough that it sucks the heat out of the wax before melting much surface feature. in this case, smoothing bumps is beneficial.
Silicone absolutely loves silicone. If you pour silicone into a silicone mould you end up with one piece of silicone — which now includes the mould. So a barrier is absolutely essential.
The question is, why make a silicone mould in the first place?
Utensils are (generally) not inserted. however more crucially in this respect, depending on the mix, silicon is more compliant. You want to have a bit of give. (I know I know, glass dildos exist, but thats a specific, advanced usage)
I think the problem with sanding a mold is that it would be very hard to sand both halves equally, so you'd end up with a step where the two halves meet.
Using the wax to smooth the mold when the two halves are already stuck together is quite ingenious, as the wax will also smooth the part where the halves meet.
- yes, concave surfaces are dang near impossible to smooth.
- plenty of household release agents don't work in a silicone to silicone mould, or impede the cure of platinum cure silicone (the body safe kind), and if you bugger it up you're just wasted the mould and the dildo's worth of silicone which is $$$.
- I just used PLA. the beeswax doesn't touch it for long, you literally pour it in and immediately back out. Because the print is hollow on the inside and because beeswax has such a low specific heat capacity it cools instantly, and this all works, my pics are proof.
- silicone doesn't bond to PLA, no, but you need to smooth the layer lines, which brings us back to point 1....
I've been orbiting this array of technologies lately - 3d printing + silicone, and also epoxy resin - so this is all really useful info for me. Your comment about having to figure out working processes by trial and error rings true. I'll be sure to bear beeswax in mind - maybe it'll work some magic on epoxy as well.
In the spirit of reciprocal knowledge sharing, I've been using filler primer spray or smoothing prints. You're probably aware of it already, but it seems very underrated in the 3d printing community. Sands to a mirror finish amazingly quickly and easily, especially under running water. Obviously that's not a body safe surface, and I don't know what effect it would have on silicone curing, but still - one worth keeping in the toolbox.
Yes, filler primer is great and I recommend it often. I think I actually mention it in the article? It's just a LOT more work than pouring some wax in and out of a mould.
Ah, it seems I projected the "trial and error" part. I certainly don't often get it right first try! I would never have guessed about dish soap preventing curing, for instance. So easy for a project to end prematurely in a sticky mess...
>No results found for sex. Please try another search or upload your own design.
Yeah, sure!
It suffers a loss of detail, but that acceptability depends entirely on your intended application.
She's also not added a flared base to it, which with her equipment probably isn't an issue but still a nice touch for completion's sake, especially if she's going to share the file.
I also mention adding a base if you're going to use it for anal play, so I'm not sure why you felt the need to assert my article wasn't "complete".
Thus the question: what exactly is novel about the approach here?
Other methods, such as solvent mists and such, can be toxic and or dangerous. And doing all that costs a little time, space and money. Not a huge deal, but given how simple and cheap this is...
But yea, I dunno why it should have to be novel..
But hey, haters will attempt to find literally anything they can to try and cut you down. I've unfortunately learned this well in my time producing content.
So thanks for a well put together article. Please do a more SFW version. How am I even going to explain where I learned this? Hahaha.
Sex is a healthy and important part of life.
As an aside I made a clamshell thing that can hold three cellphone vibrate motors and wiring with whatever the free web browser stl site is and published...
To be honest I can't remember the exact reason I asked why there's anything novel about this - might have been some wording I found either in the title or in the excerpt, but I can't seem to find it anymore. I might have misread it.
A dildo would be a poor substitute for him.
I modeled some plastic parts as a meta-mould to make a mould for some parts I wanted to make.
Might also be fun to experiment with the opposite side: 3D print the mold and use it directly, then dip that in silicone to coat it and eliminate the artifacts that way. Plus then you could have the outer layer be a softer composition, like an overmolding, which might give an interesting feel.
It just won't show up with like a linen texture or something.
Body safe silicone is very thick, you'll have a very hard time getting an even coating.
I've also had a few folk think they were using pure bees wax, but noticed when they poked around on the label after that it wasn't actually, it's often mixed with other oils and waxes.
edit: the other answer is a way better answer
It's a reference to my teddy bear (Billy Rubin) who I've had all my life. He was named after I made my mum's bilirubin wonky in the womb, my parents have a great sense of humor.
A few years ago I wanted to study medicine, but I knew we would miss my income, so what's a girl to do to make easy money while studying? ... Porn of course! So when I made my porn accounts I used Billie, the name was so familiar and it had a good alignment with my goals.
But my porn went unexpectedly viral and I kinda got overwhelmed by that. And in the mean time I took up 3D printing, and that's how I ended up moderating the largest 3D printing community on earth under the username BillieRubenCamGirl. lol.
I ended up meeting lotsa doctors because of the name (doctors love puns as much as I do it seems) and decided through talking with them I didn't want to be a dr after all. Ended up starting a double degree in two other STEM fields.
I still have the teddy, he sleeps on my bed every night.
I always wanted to demonstrate that I'm a whole human. Not just sexual or chaste. Sex is a healthy part of my life, and I like to demonstrate it thusly.
[0] https://twitter.com/search?f=live&q=from%3ABillieRubenMake+B...
Please don't post shallow dismissals, especially of other people's work. A good critical comment teaches us something.
Please respond to the strongest plausible interpretation of what someone says, not a weaker one that's easier to criticize. Assume good faith.
For example, "Why do X when you could do Y" assumes they were aware of Y and consciously chose X over Y. It is overly presumptuous especially since you don't know them. It also carries the implication that you think Y is a better "default" choice and comes across as a prompt for them to defend why they chose X instead. It might be better phrased as "Had you considered Y instead of X, and if so, I am curious why you chose X instead?"
Also the phrase "Why would you do X" kind of comes across as "Who in their right mind would do X". A better way to say it is something like "Curious about the use of X? In my experience Y works better, have you had a chance to try that yet?"
Thank you for taking the time to explain <3
2. Different 3d modeling programs are better at different things. Meshmixer is really good at some organic shape manipulations. Tinkercad is very limiting.
3. Not all slicing programs will give you the volume
4. Just because it isn't a default in your printers config doesn't mean it won't work.
5. Clone a willy kits have limitations, may not suit your needs or be available, or you may want more control of the process.
FTR, Blender and MoI3D is also good choice for organic (NURBS/B-spline) surface modeling.
Why do this rather than clone a Willy? If your willy looks like the sex toy in this blog post, you'd probably better see a doctor.
Because 3D builder is legit better than tinkercad in many ways, but you're free to use tinkercad, it's totally a matter of preference. I actually list it as an option in the article, so not sure what prompted this comment.
Tinkercad won't give you volume info and nor will most organic sculpting software.
Are you talking about "magic numbers" with regard to the layer height? If so, I'm printing on a delta so it basically doesn't matter.
Yes, because it removes the layer lines, which is the main health risk in printed toys (and without smoothing those layer lines just get transferred to the toy, silicone picks up microscopic details)