Funny how concrete walls are just a last chapter low content part. Most of us Europeans fight very hard battles against concrete walls and using the right anchor is quite a thing.
I've mounted (and still mounting) lot of stuff using high quality, but ordinary plastic plugs & screws. Fsicher, or any similar brand will do. Drill the hole with correct diameter, put in the plugs, screw, attach.
Hardened concrete is really a battle to drill though.
For masonry get yourself a 220V hammer drill. I picked one up from Lidl a couple of years ago for €40 and it has no issues drilling into my monolithic concrete walls. If I were using it daily I'd get something a bit better quality, but for DIY it's more than enough.
OTOH, I've used a DeWalt cordless hammer drill. Brushless motors are frightening things :)
I'm not sure why you'd mention "reinforced" concrete. I thought all concrete required reinforcement of some sort? Fiber won't be an issue, but if you hit rebar it's time to relocate your hole, no matter what you're drilling with. Even if the drill can do it you're going to ruin the bit.
Concrete can be tuned for brittleness and strength. Some versions become very hard and impenetrable after they completely cure. They need more powerful drills and longer drill times since they simply resist the drill bit. It's akin to the difference between stainless steel and armor plate.
Moreover the area is rocky, and is a very active earthquake area, so that a double wall sub basement/foundation is required.
On top of that, the gated community is built by a company which is building dams regularly, so they're knowledgeable in specialty concrete mixes for both quake and moisture resistance.
[This is not a hypothetical scenario btw. :) ]
A hammer drill spins in a continuous motion, and is typically used with a spiral flute drill in a Jacobs chuck (or tool-less version of the Jacobs chuck). You can usually enable or disable the hammer action with the clutch. It has a similar mechanism that encourages the drill to tap forwards, but if you press too hard it won't do much. Just a weighty and useless add-on to an ordinary drill to justify a slightly increased price, IMO. A regular drill, even with a masonry bit, is ineffective in concrete; hammer drills can work if the bit is small and the mix used more sand and maybe fine gravel (eg. mortar or brick), but are hopeless if you encounter a larger stone. Importantly, the energy and the frequency of the hammering action are tied to the rotation - usually 1, 2, or 3 taps per revolution. You don't get heavy or rapid impacts at low RPM.
A rotary impact (whether pneumatic, corded, or cordless) has an SDS head and a mechanism that drives the head forward and aft. You can typically run it in hammer-only mode, which is impossible with a hammer drill. You may be able to shift a cam (or adjust an air valve) to change the impact power. And yeah, with a decently powerful rotary impact tool, you can run put large holes in concrete with little hassle.
Hrmm, no.
The drill I use (the 800W one) can drill up to 20mm on concrete. It taps probably 20-30 times per revolution and is able to drill earthquake resistant concrete with ease. It also taps harder if you push harder. This kind of concrete can resist thick steel nails when driven with an hammer. The nails generally break into two or get slightly bent.
When used with a good drill bit, it just drills very cleanly with a little bit of resistance in the beginning, but makes relatively quick work of it.
For reference, it's a Bosch CSB 800-2 RE, made in the 90s [0].
So, there are hammer drills, and there are hammer drills. Not all of them are created equal.
A basic corded model can be had for about 50 bucks, just make sure it has a chuck tool to really tighten the bit.
With that you can quickly drill a pilot hole into hardened concrete, and then use your favorite masonry screws to attach things to the wall. I've had good luck with tapcon screws.
Now, apart from just being a solution, it should be mentioned that this is probably the only solution which both has sub-mm accuracy for positioning and combines it with ridiculous strength without elasticity. As in: you drill a hole, fill it, put a steel bar in it, positioning it with e.g. small pieces of wood, wait until hardened, and the thing won't ever move again in no direction. None of the typical issues like plastic and other plugs having some slack, old bricks being notoriously uneven making it extremely hard to get a hole drilled exactly at the spot you want (which is impossible anyway if you land on the edge of stone and mortar). Cons: pricey. Also most of the time it's complete overkill, I admit I like doing that just for peace of mind though :)
I used to live in an old building in Sweden where the external walls were made of thick concrete containing large stones and straw(!) The cheap drill bits I had did not last for long.
I think the issue is generally more how to get into the concrete in the first place.
I personally live in a skyscraper and have tried to drill into my walls and found out it's close to impossible without industrial equipment.
Every few months on the beginning of the month (when people move in), I can hear the furtive struggle of a drill trying to get into the load-bearing walls. How it starts off confident and then the torque decreases and decreases.
I ended up buying a rotary hammer because of this, holes on the floor (doorstoppers), ceiling, or walls right close to the ceiling was impossible with the cheap hammer drill, along with a good SDS+ drill bit feels like butter now.
I really don't know if any of the designers/architects involved have ever tried living in those apartments. I think a lot of them would choose different materials if they had to do their own DYI.
Concrete has great thermodynamic properties for living comfort. It cools at day, warms at night, transfers from cold parts of the house to hot ones, etc.
It is there on purpose (and not too difficult to drill into with a "Bohrhammer", rotary drill(?), i.e. the ones with SDS(+)).
Actually, the brick-walls we have (hollow bricks with flimsy thin walls) were harder for me to figure out. They need really careful drilling with the right tools, otherwise the brick shatters and nothing will take grip.
No one who rents a normal apartment for 1 or 2 people will own a rotary hammer they only need for 1 day every 5 years - they'll rent a powerful one at a hardware store.
But lots of people have an affordable power drill which is still good enough to drill into brick walls (since cheap power drills suck so much, you never want to use them again, but mid-range power drills are pretty all-around powerful).
I got mine because renting it for 1 day was actually more expensive than just buying a cheap one new. Still works fine after 10 years.
Drilling into the material is another matter though, I at some point invested in a hammer drill which manages that just fine.
And don't take a cheap one. Also buy good drill bits. I have reinforced concrete wall in my home and anything less than 7€ drill bits was basically one-used only.
On the screw bits side, heavy use delegated to Bosch again, while fine stuff are handled by Wera.
When I initially needed one I checked how much they were to rent, it was actually cheaper to buy one than to rent one for a day. Worst-case scenario it fails an I get another cheap one, I already got my money's worth.
Using the right drill machine however is indeed critical.
Once you spend a few decades in concrete houses, everything else seems cheap and suspect.
At least in many German houses.
You can also have concrete wall with plaster and then on top of it paint, no wallpaper at all.
Most of the time no wallpaper.