Whenever I see something like this, I wish people would add a reference.
I tried to find the "original" quote. But wikipedia says there is no instance of it before 21st century.
So, "Jack of all trades" was the original -> compliment.
"master of none" got added later -> made it not a compliment.
"but better than master of one" got added more recently, to make to a compliment again.
Funny enough, this comment on a medium post is also one of the references in the wikipedia page:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jack_of_all_trades,_master_of_...