It'd be nice to have power monitoring on that side of the mainboard's power regulators and caps, to pick up marginal issues before they get filtered out, and the power supplies these days will have a little ucontroller with all that information anyway without the mainboard having to duplicate that monitoring circuitry in the right place.
For what's such an important piece of a computer there's so little introspection for data while in use that has to be being collected regardless. Yeah, you can always hook up a oscope or what have you, but catching it in the act of being marginal early on would have saved me more hours in my life than I'd like to admit.
After quick searching is looks there are people reading this info with a MCU [1]. But I think it would be hard to find such PSU in ATX form factor.
The power clients (mainboard, GPUs, disk drives, etc) normally know they're getting pretty bad power from a PSU and filter it heavily to smooth it out. It'd be nice to know if the voltage is occasionally dropping and it's just being covered up by downstream caps that are over provisioned to just smooth out not fully rectified AC.
I don't really have enough data to outright blame the power supply. I don't think I connected all of the 12V lines to the motherboard (power supply didn't come with enough cables), and I can't be sure that the motherboard was designed properly for a mildly-overclocked 6950X (VRM banks, capacitors near the CPU, etc.)
It was all enough of a pain that I will never buy another Corsair power supply. My current best practices involve only buying Seasonic power supplies, and connecting every possible "optional" power connector to the motherboard. If the PSU doesn't come with enough cables to do that, buy them separately. My current Threadripper motherboard has a 6-pin and 2 4-pin ATX12V connectors, and a Molex connector. Many are marked "optional" in the motherboard's instruction manual, but I have them connected anyway. Probably overkill. Great stability. Without having designed the system or the test scenario, skipping optional things sounds like the sort of thing that's going to cost you a lot of time at some random point in the future. Best to avoid, even if you look like an idiot to the EE that designed the board.
The entry-level and lower-priced ones don't, AFAIK.
You don't need a CPU core to do this, and the older, cheaper parts do not necessarily have a CPU in them. There are even (iirc, very uncommon) designs with no digital logic save the switching.
Here is my output from lm-sensors
$ sensors
corsairpsu-hid-3-1
Adapter: HID adapter
v_in: 230.00 V
v_out +12v: 12.00 V
v_out +5v: 5.00 V
v_out +3.3v: 3.00 V
psu fan: 0 RPM
vrm temp: +49.0°C
case temp: +40.0°C
power total: 96.00 W
power +12v: 80.00 W
power +5v: 16.00 W
power +3.3v: 8.00 W
curr in: N/A
curr +12v: 6.00 A
curr +5v: 3.00 A
curr +3.3v: 2.00 ABut they don't last forever, and my old file server's 10-year-old PSU finally started causing random errors about a couple of months ago - recognized when a sustained hard disk operation dimmed the power LED. I had spares, but it's time for me to think about building something new. Whether it's more computing power for the same electrical input, or the same for less, I can do better.
Even quality brands have crappy models.
They are not necessarily the cheapest ones, it is possible that the 400w is fine, the 550w is crap, and the 600w is fine again, even if they are in the same series.
They can also change the specs over time, without any indication on the packaging.
You have to look for reviews where they actually disassemble and check the insides of the psu to determine if it is a good buy.
There is a forum local to my language where they keep track of the small number of truly recommended models, there must be an English equivalent.