The French Laundry was only $250 back in 2017? No wonder it was booked out forever, they could (and I believe now are) charging easily 2x that number.
You don't have to spend $250, although you probably have to spend $125 (based on my experiences in Europe).
I don't think of it as "a meal", at all, eating a meal usually doesn't take me three hours. It's more in the category of an event like a concert or the opera or a theme park visit.